Harpswell Neck
March 27, 2008
The sun setting over Mackerel Cove on Bailey Island...my definition of serenity!
Need to add Harpswell as an entry, not because I am terribly
intimate with this particular coastal village, but because the official town limits encompass
Harpswell Neck and quite a few spots that I love dearly. Included in this swath are Cundy’s Harbor,
this is literally the back yard of a friend's house on Orr's Island...we ALWAYS remind them how blessed they are to live in such a lovely place!
The house and beautiful island remain available for visits, though there is no regular ferry service – so you need to journey there in your own boat or arrange a charter from one of these provisioners:
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Cribstone Bridge
Aware of the many ‘bridge’ fans here at TravBuddy, I am compelled to highlight the unique conduit linking Orr’s and Bailey Islands in Maine. Although there had been a desire for many years to span the gap with the charming name of ‘Will’s Gut’, funding and nasty tides complicated the matter. But the prosperity of the 1920’s and Yankee ingenuity would combine to resolve the dilemma.
Capitalizing on the bounty of local granite, a “cribstone” bridge was constructed. What this implies is a cross hatching of hefty slabs of granite with gaps of sufficient size to allow water to flow back and forth through the structure. At the same time the granite slabs are so heavy that they don’t get washed away! This one-of-a-kind bridge remains in service today and its fascinating architecture resulted in it being named to the “National Register of Historic Places” in 1975. Similarly, the Bailey Island Bridge was recognized as a “Historic Civil Engineering Landmark” in 1984.
Something not to be missed during your tour of Maine, especially because visiting the granite cribstone bridge means you also have to enjoy the natural beauty of Orr’s and Bailey Islands!
Capitalizing on the bounty of local granite, a “cribstone” bridge was constructed. What this implies is a cross hatching of hefty slabs of granite with gaps of sufficient size to allow water to flow back and forth through the structure. At the same time the granite slabs are so heavy that they don’t get washed away! This one-of-a-kind bridge remains in service today and its fascinating architecture resulted in it being named to the “National Register of Historic Places” in 1975. Similarly, the Bailey Island Bridge was recognized as a “Historic Civil Engineering Landmark” in 1984.
Something not to be missed during your tour of Maine, especially because visiting the granite cribstone bridge means you also have to enjoy the natural beauty of Orr’s and Bailey Islands!
Close up so you can see the mass…
Thank you Roger, I can get rid o…
The Bailey Island Bridge - the w…
view of the other side of the cr…
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Lands End...Maine Style
Since you’ve ventured across the cribstone bridge, there’s no sense in stopping now. Continue winding through the delightful cottages of Bailey Island to the dead end of Route 24 and revel in Land’s End – Maine style. As a previous employee of LL Bean, I’ve always been tickled by the name for this magnificent point at the southern tip of Bailey Island, since the moniker is a major competitor to a bedrock of Maine industry.
But no time for quibbling – just revel in the sweeping seascape. From every vantage point, remarkable beauty presents itself. There is a dirt parking lot which I’ve never found full, so you can park and stretch your legs by scrambling along the rocky shoreline to absorb everything. Several islands dot the view, including a rocky ledge which houses Halfway Rock Light Station, an overlooked lighthouse in Maine. Initially lighted in 1871 and inhabited by a keeper until 1975, this desolate outpost required the keeper to row ten miles to Portland for supplies!
Beyond the gorgeous views, you will also stumble upon the Lobsterman statue, dedicated to the hard working men & women who provide you those fantastic meals, and the Land’s End Gift Shop (I’ve been here about ten times across twenty years and never entered the gift shop, sorry). A spot of utter peace and solitude which very few folks get to witness and appreciate.
But no time for quibbling – just revel in the sweeping seascape. From every vantage point, remarkable beauty presents itself. There is a dirt parking lot which I’ve never found full, so you can park and stretch your legs by scrambling along the rocky shoreline to absorb everything. Several islands dot the view, including a rocky ledge which houses Halfway Rock Light Station, an overlooked lighthouse in Maine. Initially lighted in 1871 and inhabited by a keeper until 1975, this desolate outpost required the keeper to row ten miles to Portland for supplies!
Beyond the gorgeous views, you will also stumble upon the Lobsterman statue, dedicated to the hard working men & women who provide you those fantastic meals, and the Land’s End Gift Shop (I’ve been here about ten times across twenty years and never entered the gift shop, sorry). A spot of utter peace and solitude which very few folks get to witness and appreciate.
One view from Land's End at the …
Lobsterman's statue at Land's En…
Halfway Rock Light Station viewe…
apparent tourists getting up clo…
Middlebay Lobster Company
During our latest return to Maine we were disappointed to learn that Holbrook’s, an incredible lobster shack on the water at Cundy’s Harbor, had closed down. However, it didn’t take long to pin down a new favorite. The Middlebay Lobster Company is not something you will stumble across easily (a little over a mile after you turn onto Cundy’s Harbor Road off of 24 South), but their lobster stew is heaven!
This delightful lobster shack is operated by Jeff and Elizabeth Hurd – Jeff is the lobsterman and Elizabeth the cook. The diner is a converted garage down an unpaved driveway off Cundy’s Harbor Road, but the food is fantastic. Like I said, the lobster stew is what really stands out, but we were equally impressed with our chasers: Kim had the lobster-clam plate and I sampled the stuffed haddock.
Unlike most other lobster shacks, Middlebay has a full bar with a decent wine selection. They opened for business back in 1999 and starting in 2004 placed a world map on the wall so patrons could indicate where they came from. It is fun to check out the annual maps – despite being located in such a remote area, this joint garners quite a cosmopolitan crowd over the course of a year. So now you are tuned in to ‘Maine’s best kept secret’ (even though it was included in USA Today’s list of the ‘ten best seafood shacks in America’)--- don’t pass it around!
This delightful lobster shack is operated by Jeff and Elizabeth Hurd – Jeff is the lobsterman and Elizabeth the cook. The diner is a converted garage down an unpaved driveway off Cundy’s Harbor Road, but the food is fantastic. Like I said, the lobster stew is what really stands out, but we were equally impressed with our chasers: Kim had the lobster-clam plate and I sampled the stuffed haddock.
Unlike most other lobster shacks, Middlebay has a full bar with a decent wine selection. They opened for business back in 1999 and starting in 2004 placed a world map on the wall so patrons could indicate where they came from. It is fun to check out the annual maps – despite being located in such a remote area, this joint garners quite a cosmopolitan crowd over the course of a year. So now you are tuned in to ‘Maine’s best kept secret’ (even though it was included in USA Today’s list of the ‘ten best seafood shacks in America’)--- don’t pass it around!
Look for this flag on the right …
this year's documentation of whe…
Kim's Lobster + clam dinner
Think you can accept the Triple …
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Cooks Lobster House
If you want to enjoy your lobster dinner in surroundings that are a bit more upscale than a ‘shack,’ move on up to Cooks Lobster House on Bailey’s Island. Cooks has been voted the #1 seafood restaurant in mid-coast Maine since 1995, and for good reason. My first visit to Cooks was 1986 and the amazing combination of great food in an exceptional setting has kept me coming back for over twenty years.
The restaurant sits on a little peninsula and is surrounded by water on three sides. You can even look out upon the granite cribstone bridge while enjoying lobster! If its nice out, they have a small porch where you can dine (can’t see the bridge from there, however), though most of the time you will likely opt to sit indoors. During our last visit in August, 2008 we were pleasantly surprised to learn that Cooks will now be open year round. This is astonishing, because this is really a remote location – but I suppose a reflection of their ability to lure customers in spite of distance and weather.
Cooks is a great stop to highlight your Maine visit – both for the food and stunning drive to get there.
The restaurant sits on a little peninsula and is surrounded by water on three sides. You can even look out upon the granite cribstone bridge while enjoying lobster! If its nice out, they have a small porch where you can dine (can’t see the bridge from there, however), though most of the time you will likely opt to sit indoors. During our last visit in August, 2008 we were pleasantly surprised to learn that Cooks will now be open year round. This is astonishing, because this is really a remote location – but I suppose a reflection of their ability to lure customers in spite of distance and weather.
Cooks is a great stop to highlight your Maine visit – both for the food and stunning drive to get there.
