The Big Smoke

New Delhi Travel Blog

 › entry 8 of 12 › view all entries
Then to Delhi. I wasn't feeling great and threw up after the steep 2km drive down the mountain, just past Dehra Dun, but I blame that on the travel sickness pill I took, which exacerbated the seedy after effects of alcohol. After a long drive, we arrived in Central Delhi at 5.30pm where we left A's parents and Tash and our driver, Kishore. We weaved our way through the commuter crowds thronging through Delhi train station and into Paharganj, the seedy but cheap tourist area. We settled on Hotel Vivek for Rs350/night with its own bathroom, TV and room service (!!). We caught an auto to Karim's, a well known and very good Moghul restaurant near the Red Fort specialising in the tandoor - with excellent and huge naans and tasty mutton ribs.

In the morning, A had a real craving for dosa so we wandered around the back alleys of Paharganj asking for it until someone jumped on their bike and showed us to a South Indian hole in the wall restaurant. It was worth it - we had paper masala dosa, which is like a big rolled roti thing with slightly thinner, crispier edges, filled with potato curry in the middle and served with excellent dahl and a coconut sauce.

The tasty dosa experience was ruined on the way back though, where I swear I saw an old man bash a puppy. He was roughly handling the little thing, then disappeared into a side alley where I saw him pick up a big rock. God only knows what happened after that. It was quite distressing but A was unfazed and pointed out that there wasn't much we could do about it; stray dogs, death and cruelty are all a part of life, particularly life in India it seems. Still.

We walked into Connaught Place, the more upmarket tourist area, and browsed a Cottage Industries Emporium (a government run, fair-trade handicraft/souvenir store). We got lost trying to find the Gandhi Museum and found the Doll Museum instead, which I dragged A into and was glad I had. There was quite an impressive collection of dolls from all over the world, even boring Australian dolls and creepy hollow-eyed Eastern European ones, as well as many with intricate and beautiful clothing and accessories. We eventually did find the Gandhi museum about 45 minutes before it closed. It was worth it; a lot of reading, but also a good collection of photos and plaques about his work and life, including such keepsakes as the robe he was wearing when he was assassinated.

We ate dinner at the hotel restaurant on the roof, which was fine except for the blaring pop crap coming out of the speakers. There seems to be a trend with loud Western music in India...

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New Delhi
photo by: peeyushmalhotra