The middle of Nowhere

Muonio Travel Blog

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A view on the Fjord along the road to south
Leaving Nordreisa has been hard hard hard not at all like the rest of Norway. Its been long and I was freezing and it was freezing. The good point is that my bag was extremely light as I was wearing all my clothes (3 pairs of socks, all my sweater and most of my clean t-shirt). Still it was cold.


August 14

So I was waiting on the side of the good road the E8 direction Finland in the middle of the forest area which was making it more warm and since that corner of the country has the reputation of being one of the most dry area, it was saving me of being rained at. But the waiting went on and on... I sat and enjoyed the sun at first making some sandwich and getting up when there was one of the rare car. Time went on and nearly no cars have passed and it was evening and several km was still separating me of my final destination for the night at Kaisa's place in Kittila (HC - Kaisas).
Glacier water on the fjord

I ended up starting to walk and the km went by and then some cars passed but none stopped which made me crazy as the hours went and my flu-cold got annoying  as well as my tiredness and my will of getting out of there and reach Finland. Plus my reserve of water was already running low.

At least some of my luck came over by a norvegian caravan who was going all the way to the finnish border in Kilpisjarvi. The both guy in the van were pretty cool and they stopped pretty often to have me take photos of the area, the river running down in the canyon and the mountains around, which also revealed annoying as the ride was going extremely slow then.

Finally reaching the border and the dumb settlement of Kilpisjarvi, I stood in a wonderful large bus stop area and wait wait wait, the sun went low.
Last glimpse on the Glacier heading to Finland
.. the few trucks who passed by never stopped, the few cars were actually always the same moron passing over and over in front of me and the temperature dropped fast and I started shivering and getting crazy yelling!
The only positive point of the experience is that I got a good view on Sanaa mountain, but well... I started walking away and away for several km more which at least made me warm again. The sun finally went down and further on the road I saw a black thing sleeping along the desertic road. I said 'What the fuck I'm not gonna meet a bear or a baby bear' which was looking like it... I stopped walking and tried to make noise and then the thing started to walk and following me, I really didnt appreciate so I walked faster and faster and its at that moment that a norvegian truck appeared, pulling my thumb up he stopped and picked me luckely.
Dry - nowhere lands of Lappland

Finally, the black thing revealed to simply be a reindeer farmer dog, still annoying in that condition. The trucker was making some 100km which was at least making me move and out of there but was going to leave me in the dark again in the middle of nowhere. The road went on with some desertic looking landscape, as said this region is one of the dryest one which also means that the nights are really cold! There is my luck. The trucker provided me with some water and luckely some warm place for about an hour. Then at a crossroad where he was driving more north back to Finnmark Norway he left me and I waited but then it was already dark... meaning the winter is approaching and the nights arent anymore fully lights (still not extremely dark though).

So here I am next to the dark road in the middle of nowhere without traffic coming, luckely several minutes later a car comes by and immediately pull over, the car is overpacked and the guy says 'I dont care I see you're in need, we will find a solution'. So he starts pulling all his stuff in one corner of the car when it could fit just for me to have enough space to enter and put my backpack on my lap, we manage after few minutes and start to drive direction more south and more than an hour later we reached Muonio where the road split for me to go to Kittila and for him to go further south for few km before crossing to Sweden. He told me I can stay in the car as he is driving south to the sea side and can eventually starts hitch-hiking from there later on.

I make my decision while we pause in Muonio and let Kaisa knows that I wont finally reach Kittila, as it is dark and late. Then he says something like 'is it hospitality club?' I say yes... and it appear that he has a friend that his member in Kalix area and will eventually bring me there. Cool world!

So we left again and finally cross the border to Sweden in the middle of the forest driving some 160km/h (as it was all the time) in the dark road. Leaving the 'pilluralli' experience we noticed in Muonio
August 15

The driving went on but as Kalix is pretty far still it wasnt plan to be reached that same night and he planned to stopped by at a fisherman camp (which he is a fisherman coming back from a fishing trip in Norway) so that we could settle our tent or more likely sleep in the sauna building.

We did and reached this middle of nowhere camp in Sweden, where my phone stopped working because my prepaid card only does so in Finland, and parked next to wooden log building next to the river in this extremely northern Sweden. Putting the important thing out of the car into the building and preparing to sleep. It also revealed that he is walking with sticks as he got an accident previously (which he told me when picking me) but seeing the condition of his legs, I was amazed that he kept driving and work on it instead of letting it healed more perfect and fast...hence all the pain he has and the several painkiller pills he was gobbing.

Anyway, we got to the sauna building put our sleeping bag in one corner and get to the sauna area of the building to get a 'sauna shower' while the fire was still burning. The sauna shower consist of having yourself sweating, then pouring water on yourself and finally take a cold and a hot water bucket mix them and pour it above your head. Which was done and then in my sleeping bag I felt asleep immediately until about 7-8 AM.
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A view on the Fjord along the road…
A view on the Fjord along the roa…
Glacier water on the fjord
Glacier water on the fjord
Last glimpse on the Glacier headin…
Last glimpse on the Glacier headi…
Dry - nowhere lands of Lappland
Dry - nowhere lands of Lappland
photo by: maplefanta