Takayama the high mountain town
March 14, 2008
We left Takaragawa in a little bit of rain. took the bus back to Minakami train station in the morning. At the train station, I walked across the street to the "coffee and cake" store where I bought the "choco cake" and bought another box, this time a bigger box with 20 of them!
We had to take 3 different trains today to get to our next destination Takayama. The transfers all went without a glitch and we went through the Japanese Alps seeing snow on the ground and mountains, and then going north to the coast of Sea of Japan where the train ran along the coast for a while, and then we changed the train at Toyama and headed back south into the mountains again, to Takayama.
At Takayama, a town famous for their yearly festivals, one in the spring in April, and another in the fall. They would have the traditional Japanese floats parading down the street and draw a huge crowd. When we got there, it was not festival time but there were many banners, signs announcing the upcoming spring one. We took a taxi in front of the train station and headed for our guesthouse roykan Nagase. It turned out that there was only one other couple staying there tonight, so the hotel told us we could use the public bath as a private one. The roykan had a long history (250 years, 11 generations by the same family who owned it). We had a suite in traditional Japanese style: after entering our suite, we had a hallway going around a small private garden leading to the bath and toilet. To the right of the hallway with private
gardens on both sides (but it was too cold to go out, snow was on the ground in the garden!), and a separate bathroom and toilet at the end of the corridor. To the right of the hallway through screen doors (lattice wood with Japanese rice papers on them) were two 8-tatami roomes. The inner one had a low table and two chairs on the tatami (chair had no legs). The two rooms were separated by more paper screen doors, which we kept open. Along the outside of these two rooms was a hallway parallel to the inner hallway with another private garden along the length of the hallway. It was a very lovely place and we felt very happy. After leaving our luggage in the roykan, we used the umbrellas provided to us by the hotel and went out for a walk in the town of Takayama.
It was raining and colder than we thought, but we walked the pretty empty streets and stopped at several stores, one to buy some pastries they called "man-tou" (actually that's the Chinese pronounciation of the words I could read, while the Chinese man-tous were made from white flour and steamed, theirs were more likely baked and had all sorts of stuffings. We stopped at a candy store also, and bought some sesame candies. We walked down the streets which had Edo era architecture of latticed windows and we could almost be back in time a few hundred years!
We went and visited the Yoshijima Heritage House, (entrance fee 500 Yen per person). The house belonged to a saki brewer and was very interesting to look at. Steep wooden stairs (kind of like ones we saw in Tibet's temples). In the kitchen area, the private well they had made for the water to brew saki. The open beams in the central part of the house were most impressive. Interesting too because they were not sqaured off beams, but had graceful curves.
Most stores closed around 5pm, so we got back to the ryokan and took a nice Japanese style bath before the hotel fed us dinner in our room.
We had to take 3 different trains today to get to our next destination Takayama. The transfers all went without a glitch and we went through the Japanese Alps seeing snow on the ground and mountains, and then going north to the coast of Sea of Japan where the train ran along the coast for a while, and then we changed the train at Toyama and headed back south into the mountains again, to Takayama.
At Takayama, a town famous for their yearly festivals, one in the spring in April, and another in the fall. They would have the traditional Japanese floats parading down the street and draw a huge crowd. When we got there, it was not festival time but there were many banners, signs announcing the upcoming spring one. We took a taxi in front of the train station and headed for our guesthouse roykan Nagase. It turned out that there was only one other couple staying there tonight, so the hotel told us we could use the public bath as a private one. The roykan had a long history (250 years, 11 generations by the same family who owned it). We had a suite in traditional Japanese style: after entering our suite, we had a hallway going around a small private garden leading to the bath and toilet. To the right of the hallway with private
gardens on both sides (but it was too cold to go out, snow was on the ground in the garden!), and a separate bathroom and toilet at the end of the corridor. To the right of the hallway through screen doors (lattice wood with Japanese rice papers on them) were two 8-tatami roomes. The inner one had a low table and two chairs on the tatami (chair had no legs). The two rooms were separated by more paper screen doors, which we kept open. Along the outside of these two rooms was a hallway parallel to the inner hallway with another private garden along the length of the hallway. It was a very lovely place and we felt very happy. After leaving our luggage in the roykan, we used the umbrellas provided to us by the hotel and went out for a walk in the town of Takayama.
It was raining and colder than we thought, but we walked the pretty empty streets and stopped at several stores, one to buy some pastries they called "man-tou" (actually that's the Chinese pronounciation of the words I could read, while the Chinese man-tous were made from white flour and steamed, theirs were more likely baked and had all sorts of stuffings. We stopped at a candy store also, and bought some sesame candies. We walked down the streets which had Edo era architecture of latticed windows and we could almost be back in time a few hundred years!
We went and visited the Yoshijima Heritage House, (entrance fee 500 Yen per person). The house belonged to a saki brewer and was very interesting to look at. Steep wooden stairs (kind of like ones we saw in Tibet's temples). In the kitchen area, the private well they had made for the water to brew saki. The open beams in the central part of the house were most impressive. Interesting too because they were not sqaured off beams, but had graceful curves.
Most stores closed around 5pm, so we got back to the ryokan and took a nice Japanese style bath before the hotel fed us dinner in our room.
The bullet train we transfered t...
view into the train from the pla...
on the platform in (Echigo-Yuzaw...
View of snowy landscapes near To...
The "wide hida" has great big wi...
the back window of the Wide Hida...
out of the mountains, the fields...
one of the many rivers we passed...
black tiled roofs are pretty, on...
2 of our tickets to Takayama, th...
Our nice Japanese style ryokan i...
Another garden outside the corri...
the small garden with a water ba...
Kevin enjoying a cup of tea in o...
walking the streets of Takayama ...
more goodies. We had some puffed...
a wooden fish in an antique stor...
more Edo era architecture in Tak...
Entrance to the heritage house n...
interior of Yoshijima Heritage H...
Graceful beams inside Yoshijima ...
yard of Yoshijima Heritage House...
Interior of Yoshijima Heritage H...
Interior of Yoshijima Heritage H...
rooms inside the Yoshijima Herit...
Another tea kettle hanging from ...
Exterior and entrance of Yoshiji...
The big ball of tree/wood/branch...
A nice looking old Edo era (?) ...
Edo era street in Takayama looke...
kevin is ready for his dinner se...
A look at our first course of di...
These tiny squids were so tender...
a couple of pieces of beef cooki...
miso soup and a soft boiled egg ...
dinner udon noodles,, rice and m...
A traditional Japanese guest house experience
Takayama is a town with traditional Japanese (Edo period) buildings, and it seemed appropriate to stay at a guest house with a 250 year history operated by the same family!
There are many rooms/suites in this ryokan, we stayed at one with 2 rooms, plus separate bath and toilet. With sliding doors leading to 2 private gardens (very small, but nice). Futons are put out on the tatami for sleeping at night, and dinner and breakfast are served in the room. The food was plenty and most excellent. There was a public bath perhaps big enough for 4-5 people which we got to use as a private hot spa because there were few guests that night. There is another bath which was not open when we were there.
This place definitely gives you a feeling of what the old Japan would be like.
I gave 4* for amenities because no internet was available (but why would you want it here?) and 4* for the bed because you do sleep on futons on the tatami. But that's all what we expected so it was great anyway.
The staff was friendly and helpful and we were made to feel most welcome.
I highly recommend anyone who wants to experience old Japan to stay here if possible. It is very expensive.
There are many rooms/suites in this ryokan, we stayed at one with 2 rooms, plus separate bath and toilet. With sliding doors leading to 2 private gardens (very small, but nice). Futons are put out on the tatami for sleeping at night, and dinner and breakfast are served in the room. The food was plenty and most excellent. There was a public bath perhaps big enough for 4-5 people which we got to use as a private hot spa because there were few guests that night. There is another bath which was not open when we were there.
This place definitely gives you a feeling of what the old Japan would be like.
I gave 4* for amenities because no internet was available (but why would you want it here?) and 4* for the bed because you do sleep on futons on the tatami. But that's all what we expected so it was great anyway.
The staff was friendly and helpful and we were made to feel most welcome.
I highly recommend anyone who wants to experience old Japan to stay here if possible. It is very expensive.












