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Takayama the high mountain town

Takayama Travel Blog › entry 8 of 34 › view all entries

Visit the main island of Japan with my husband Kevin, meet a travbuddy in Kyoto. Then back to Taiwan for a reunion with my old schoolmates, and a meet up with our world traveling travbuddy Deats to see a side of Taiwan that I had never seen while living there.
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Takayama the high mountain town

The bullet train we transfered to at Echigo-Yuzawa or Toyama
We left Takaragawa in a little bit of rain. took the bus back to Minakami train station in the morning. At the train station, I walked across the street to the "coffee and cake" store where I bought the "choco cake" and bought another box, this time a bigger box with 20 of them!
We had to take 3 different trains today to get to our next destination Takayama. The transfers all went without a glitch and we went through the Japanese Alps seeing snow on the ground and mountains, and then going north to the coast of Sea of Japan where the train ran along the coast for a while, and then we changed the train at Toyama and headed back south into the mountains again, to Takayama.

At Takayama, a town famous for their yearly festivals, one in the spring in April, and another in the fall.
view into the train from the platform at Toyama
They would have the traditional Japanese floats parading down the street and draw a huge crowd. When we got there, it was not festival time but there were many banners,  signs announcing the upcoming spring one. We took a taxi in front of the train station and headed for our guesthouse roykan Nagase. It  turned out that there was only one other couple staying there tonight, so the hotel told us we could use the public bath as a private one. The roykan had a long history (250 years, 11 generations by the same family who owned it). We had  a suite in traditional Japanese style: after entering our suite, we had a hallway going around a small private garden leading to the bath and toilet. To the right of the hallway with private
gardens on both sides (but it was too cold to go out, snow was on the ground in the garden!), and a separate bathroom and toilet at the end of the corridor.
on the platform in (Echigo-Yuzawa or Toyama?)
To the right of the hallway through screen doors (lattice wood with Japanese rice papers on them) were two 8-tatami roomes. The inner one had a low table and two chairs on the tatami (chair had no legs). The two rooms were separated by more paper screen doors, which we kept open. Along the outside of these two rooms was a hallway parallel to the inner hallway with another private garden along the length of the hallway. It was a very lovely place and we felt very happy. After leaving our luggage in the roykan, we used the umbrellas provided to us by the hotel and went out for a walk in the town of Takayama.

It was raining and colder than we thought, but we walked the pretty empty streets and stopped at several stores, one to buy some pastries  they called "man-tou" (actually that's the Chinese pronounciation of the words I could read, while the Chinese man-tous were made from white flour and steamed, theirs were more likely baked and had all sorts of stuffings.
View of snowy landscapes near Toyama
We stopped at a candy store also, and bought some sesame candies. We walked down the streets which had Edo era architecture of latticed windows and we could almost be back in time a few hundred years!
 
We went and visited the Yoshijima Heritage House, (entrance fee 500 Yen per person). The house belonged to a saki brewer and was very interesting to look at. Steep wooden stairs (kind of like ones we saw in Tibet's temples). In the kitchen area, the private well they had made for the water to brew saki. The open beams in the central part of the house were most impressive. Interesting too because they were not sqaured off beams, but had graceful curves.

Most stores closed around 5pm, so we got back to the ryokan and took a nice Japanese style bath before the hotel fed us dinner in our room.

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The bullet train we transfered to …
The bullet train we transfered t
view into the train from the platf…
view into the train from the pla
on the platform in (Echigo-Yuzawa …
on the platform in (Echigo-Yuzaw
View of snowy landscapes near Toya…
View of snowy landscapes near To
The wide hida has great big wind…
The "wide hida" has great big wi
the back window of the Wide Hida t…
the back window of the Wide Hida
out of the mountains, the fields a…
out of the mountains, the fields
one of the many rivers we passed o…
one of the many rivers we passed
A dam as we neared Takayama
A dam as we neared Takayama
black tiled roofs are pretty, on t…
black tiled roofs are pretty, on
2 of our tickets to Takayama, the …
2 of our tickets to Takayama, th
Our nice Japanese style ryokan in …
Our nice Japanese style ryokan i
Another garden outside the corrido…
Another garden outside the corri
the small garden with a water basi…
the small garden with a water ba
Kevin enjoying a cup of tea in our…
Kevin enjoying a cup of tea in o
walking the streets of Takayama in…
walking the streets of Takayama
more yummies in a store in Takayama
more yummies in a store in Takayama
more goodies. We had some puffed s…
more goodies. We had some puffed
Edo era architecture in Takayama
Edo era architecture in Takayama
a wooden fish in an antique store,…
a wooden fish in an antique stor
more Edo era architecture in Takay…
more Edo era architecture in Tak
Entrance to the heritage house now…
Entrance to the heritage house n
interior of Yoshijima Heritage Hou…
interior of Yoshijima Heritage H
Graceful beams inside Yoshijima He…
Graceful beams inside Yoshijima
yard of Yoshijima Heritage House, …
yard of Yoshijima Heritage House
Interior of Yoshijima Heritage Hou…
Interior of Yoshijima Heritage H
Interior of Yoshijima Heritage Hou…
Interior of Yoshijima Heritage H
rooms inside the Yoshijima Heritag…
rooms inside the Yoshijima Herit
Another tea kettle hanging from th…
Another tea kettle hanging from
Exterior and entrance of Yoshijima…
Exterior and entrance of Yoshiji
The big ball of tree/wood/branches…
The big ball of tree/wood/branch
A nice looking old  Edo era (?) en…
A nice looking old Edo era (?)
Edo era street in Takayama looked …
Edo era street in Takayama looke
kevin is ready for his dinner serv…
kevin is ready for his dinner se
A look at our first course of dinn…
A look at our first course of di
kevin and I at dinner in our room
kevin and I at dinner in our room
These tiny squids were so tender a…
These tiny squids were so tender
A small piece of baked salmon
A small piece of baked salmon
a gelatony soup, also good
a gelatony soup, also good
a couple of pieces of beef cooking…
a couple of pieces of beef cooki
a small portion of noodles
a small portion of noodles
does is look yummy?
does is look yummy?
miso soup and a soft boiled egg wi…
miso soup and a soft boiled egg
dinner udon noodles,, rice and mis…
dinner udon noodles,, rice and m
dessert of strawberry ice cream
dessert of strawberry ice cream
A traditional Japanese guest house experience
Takayama is a town with traditional Japanese (Edo period) buildings, and it seemed appropriate to stay at a guest house with a 250 year history operated by the same family!

There are many rooms/suites in this ryokan, we stayed at one with 2 rooms, plus separate bath and toilet. With sliding doors leading to 2 private gardens (very small, but nice). Futons are put out on the tatami for sleeping at night, and dinner and breakfast are served in the room. The food was plenty and most excellent. There was a public bath perhaps big enough for 4-5 people which we got to use as a private hot spa because there were few guests that night. There is another bath which was not open when we were there.

This place definitely gives you a feeling of what the old Japan would be like.

I gave 4* for amenities because no internet was available (but why would you want it here?) and 4* for the bed because you do sleep on futons on the tatami. But that's all what we expected so it was great anyway.

The staff was friendly and helpful and we were made to feel most welcome.
I highly recommend anyone who wants to experience old Japan to stay here if possible. It is very expensive.
Interior of one of our rooms
one of the private gardens outsi
Part of our dinner
more of our dinner
Door/entrance to the ryokan
the entry hall of the ryokan, wi
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