AsiaTaiwanYeliu

Taiwan north coast, Danshui 淡水 紅毛城, Laomai 老梅 and Yeliu 野柳 by bus

Yeliu Travel Blog

 › entry 29 of 34 › view all entries
The Kwan-yin Mountain, viewed from Danshui
We are traveling Deats way today. Phil showed me how he travels the world using available public transportation... The main destination was Yeliu, a beach in northern Taiwan coast with fantastic rock erosions. But we were doing a loop of the northern coast, and started by taking the subway to Danshu (aka Tamshui), meaning "fresh water" in Chinese.

Danshui has a bit of history because it was a port from the 17th century. First the Spanish came and established a fort in 1628, then the Dutch kicked out the Spanish and built a fort in 1642. Since the Dutch often had red hair, the nickname for this fort was the "Red Hair Fort", but also known as Fort San Domingo. After the British and French beat up the Chinese Ching Dynasty again in 1858 (there were a lot of wars between the Chinese and Europeans prior to this, and Hong Kong was leased to the British back in 1842 as a condition of a war settlement called the Nanking Agreement, and 5 Chinese ports were opened for foreign trade.
view of Danshui from below the Dutch Fort
) Danshui was also opened as a port, and the British established a consulate here. The consulate residence was built right next to the fort, in a Victorian style building. Deats being English, I thought a little history might be of interest. Of course it was very bad and humiliating history for the Chinese. I told Deats I did not hold any grudge against him although he thought a Union Jack would have looked very fine on top of the fort! So we toured the fort and the consulate's residence, which were all nicely restored and had many historical artifacts. We took a bus from the subway station to the fort and back.

Now it was time to hit the coast. We took a bus (with schedule kindly provided by the staff at my hotel), and got off at our first stop Laomai.
the "red hair fort" or Fort San Domingo, one built by the Dutch after they kicked out the Spanish, in 1642.
This was a tiny village on the coast. I saw some photos of this place at http://forestlife.info/slide/s330.htm and thought it was very unique. The rock formations near the beach were covered in green seaweed or algae, the rocks lined up 90 degrees from the waves, and the waves would come in between the rocks. The white foam of the waves and the green rocks made an interesting contrast. There were many dead puffer fish on the beach, don't know why. The beach nearby was also a popular destination for wedding photography, and we were witnessed to one such occasion.

After Laomai, we went back and caught the next bus just as we approached the bus station, so no long waits. And about 40 minutes later, we were dropped off at the Yeliu bus stop. It was a little walk toward the village and the Yeliu park from the bus stop.
the kitchen in the old fort
Deats got some "waffles" as a snack. They were shaped like waffles, but really tasted like pound cakes. So we had some of those as we walked toward the Yeliu scenic area.

Yeliu beach had these rock formations which were erosions from the sea. More than 20 million years ago, this part of the beach was under the sea, the rocks were compressed and made long lines along the surface. Then as they were raised above the sea, the waves pounding them made these fantastic shaped rocks. Some were shaped like ginger, some like mushrooms, some looked like candle holders, and one of the most famous looked like a queen! We walked around, took lots of photos, and then headed over to the long and narrow peninsula which stretched out to sea. There was a "bird watching path", where we did see some birds we did not recognize.
Residence of the old British consulate in Taiwan
There was a pavilion at the very top, and we made it there just before the sun was starting to set. The view was very good, we could see the coastline on both sides, and cliffs down to the rocks below. There were even people fishing on some of those rocks! This was a good hike coming up, but going down it was much easier. We made it all the way back to the bus stop in about 40 minutes, and again we were lucky to catch the bus right as we got there!

This time the bus took us to Keelung. Where we tried to take the train back to Taipei. However, the next train was more than 40 minutes away, so we boarded a bus which left sooner. The bus trip was fast enough until we hit Taipei traffic, then it was a lot of slow driving in the bus lane on the main street.
courtyard of the old fort, some of these rooms were used as jail holding cells
I figured we probably didn't really get back any sooner. We got off the bus near the same subway station we started this morning. It was after 7pm, and I wanted to treat Deats to some Japanese food tonight, so we walked the short distance to the restaurant I had scoped out earlier.

This was a Japanese buffet restaurant, where for a fixed price, you eat all you can eat. It worked out well since this was an introduction of sushi and sashimi for Deats, and he was able to try some but not have to eat it if it didn't suit him. There were some baked fish that Deats liked very much and had many servings. We topped off with many servings of cakes for dessert and left with full tummies.

Since Deats was heading to Korea tomorrow, Ann had phoned around several bookstores to find him a copy of LP on Korea. We took the subway to the bookstore, which was an entire building, very large bookstore. Although this particular location was not open 24 hours a day, another location did. We got the book and then it was time to call it a long day and get some needed rest.

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The Kwan-yin Mountain, viewed from…
The Kwan-yin Mountain, viewed fro…
view of Danshui from below the Dut…
view of Danshui from below the Du…
the red hair fort or Fort San Do…
the "red hair fort" or Fort San D…
the kitchen in the old fort
the kitchen in the old fort
Residence of the old British consu…
Residence of the old British cons…
courtyard of the old fort, some of…
courtyard of the old fort, some o…
an old document incenarator inside…
an old document incenarator insid…
view of the English Consulates re…
view of the English Consulate's r…
Wall of the old Dutch fort
Wall of the old Dutch fort
more wall of the old Dutch fort
more wall of the old Dutch fort
garden  between the English consul…
garden between the English consu…
old cannons
old cannons
showing they were made in the Chin…
showing they were made in the Chi…
cannons
cannons
target the English consulate?
target the English consulate?
View of the old Dutch fort on the …
View of the old Dutch fort on the…
Dutch fort and cannon
Dutch fort and cannon
purple flowers in the garden
purple flowers in the garden
outside the English Consulates re…
outside the English Consulate's r…
the Queen Victoria symbol on the E…
the Queen Victoria symbol on the …
looking up at the consulates resi…
looking up at the consulate's res…
green algae and rocks at Laomei, w…
green algae and rocks at Laomei, …
LaoMai beach rock formations, with…
LaoMai beach rock formations, wit…
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
waves at Loamai beach
waves at Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
a puddle at Loamai beach
a puddle at Loamai beach
a dead puffer fish on the beach of…
a dead puffer fish on the beach o…
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach
Loamai beach is a popular spot for…
Loamai beach is a popular spot fo…
a sign at Yeliu showing how the st…
a sign at Yeliu showing how the s…
panorama of Yeliu coast
panorama of Yeliu coast
view of Yeliu rock formations
view of Yeliu rock formations
view of Yeliu, to the right of the…
view of Yeliu, to the right of th…
view of Yeliu, further right from …
view of Yeliu, further right from…
and more to the right, the cove an…
and more to the right, the cove a…
the cove
the cove
Yeliu
Yeliu
Yeliu
Yeliu
Yeliu, ginger shaped rocks in the …
Yeliu, ginger shaped rocks in the…
Yeliu, a rock sitting on another r…
Yeliu, a rock sitting on another …
Yeliu, candelstick holder shaped r…
Yeliu, candelstick holder shaped …
Yeliu sea eroded rocks
Yeliu sea eroded rocks
mushroom shaped rocks at Yeliu
mushroom shaped rocks at Yeliu
Yeliu
Yeliu
Deats taking photos at Yeliu
Deats taking photos at Yeliu
more rocks
more rocks
Yeliu
Yeliu
strange cracked lines on the rocky…
strange cracked lines on the rock…
candlestick platform shaped rocks …
candlestick platform shaped rocks…
me and Deats at Yeliu, we hiked up…
me and Deats at Yeliu, we hiked u…
view at Yeliu
view at Yeliu
me and a mushroom shaped rock in Y…
me and a mushroom shaped rock in …
algae in the cove
algae in the cove
an egret at Yeliu
an egret at Yeliu
yeliu view
yeliu view
rock erosions in Yeliu and compres…
rock erosions in Yeliu and compre…
Statue of a fisherman who sacrific…
Statue of a fisherman who sacrifi…
a strange rock formation in Yeliu
a strange rock formation in Yeliu
The famous Queue rock in Yeliu
The famous Queue rock in Yeliu
the Queen from a distance
the Queen from a distance
Deats and the Queen
Deats and the Queen
a puddle in Yeliu
a puddle in Yeliu
a split in the rock formation in Y…
a split in the rock formation in …
a bird, among many we saw on the n…
a bird, among many we saw on the …
view down the side of the hill
view down the side of the hill
view back from the hike to the top…
view back from the hike to the to…
view of Yeliu from the top of the…
view toward the land from the hill…
view toward the land from the hil…
another view toward the land, a bi…
another view toward the land, a b…
view from hilltop at Yeliu, Taipe…
view toward the sea from the cliff…
view toward the sea from the clif…
on the top of the hill
on the top of the hill
Resting in the pavilion on the hil…
Resting in the pavilion on the hi…
Yeliu
photo by: portia