Lost in Translation...but Mostly in Nagasaki
"Let's catch a bus"
"OK"
With that, my friend Jon and I walked a couple of blocks to a major street in Sasebo hoping to hail a cab. We figured that if we could get a cab to stop we would be able to ask, more or less, where the bus station was. How wrong we were. There was absolutely no way we were understanding each other, much less understanding directions. Finally, after pointing to a picture of a bus on a pamphlet I was holding, the cab driver understood and drove us to a reddish building on a busy street. We said thank you and went in.
We had cash money and we were looking for a bus ticket. Easy right? Well, when we walked in we were greeted by a large board (the blog picture) that we couldn't figure out. We went to one of the windows and like idiots, repeated "Nagasaki", in different tones to the confused woman behind the glass.
After a while, I think either Jon or myself must've hit just the right inflection because her eyes perked up. She came outside, grabbed our money out of our hands and inserted it into a machine, similar to what we use here for our MetroRail or London's Underground. Two tickets printed out She handed them to us along with some change, smiled and left. So there we stood. Quietly wondering what happened and trying not to stick out more than we had to. Before we could decide what to do next, a short, elderly man with white gloves rushed up to us, held us by the hand and led us to a bus full of people. We had to be back in Sasebo by midnight and we weren't even sure if this bus was going to the right place. But it seemed like too good of an opportunity. It was an easy bus ride.Hours later, the bus stops and we are let off. I was thinking that maybe since we had boarded at a bus station that we were going to be let off at a bus station. This changed when we were dropped off at a busy intersection somewhere in what we learned was Nagasaki. How would we get back? There was no time to think about that then. We had to explore now, and worry about that later. First thing first, we wanted to get around the area where the A Bomb was dropped but had no idea how. Asking people became an awkward ordeal. Most people avoided us, even as we asked in gentle tones. Those that stopped, didn't know any English. Rightly so I suppose, I mean, I didn't know any Japanese! So what would transpire would be us making a confused lost motion (looking around lost), a Looney Tunes bomb drop whistle, and then our hands would make the shape of a mushroom cloud as we made a rumble.
Not many people stood long enough to hear the rumble and I don't blame them. We stopped when we started to get weary looks. I wasn't threatening them! I just wanted to know where the Atomic Bomb Museum was! Across the street a man in a huge bee costume was hosting some kind of pageant to really loud pop music. Interesting.We were finally able to communicate with someone enough to figure out where to go. We boarded a bus and got off just in time to see the a-bomb memorial park. It had a large statue at the end, that according to the sign was intentionally invoking both the images of Jesus and Buddha to represent peace. On the ground, one could see what is left of the buildings that were there before the blast. On some, you could see the rebarb all heading in one direction, probably from the blast.
From there we were able to navigate around the area. We found the museum and were astonished at the pictures of the city after the bombing and the human suffering afterwards. Very sobering. What is truly amazing is seeing how this city was reconstructed and thrives today.After wandering the neighborhood and also checking out ground zero, we were starting to get pretty hungry. It was already late afternoon and we still hadn't eaten. We walked along looking for something authentic and after a while, with our noses leading the way, we found a small restaurant that from the outside looked like a garden shed. It was fairly empty, so we went ahead and sat down. Up until now, in Sasebo and other restaurants we had seen in Nagasaki, there were pictures next to the food either on a sign outside, on the menu, or most times, both.
After twenty minutes of sipping green beverage from an enormous glass, our food came. Jon received an appetizing plate of what looked to be breaded shrimp and fish. Very nice. What I got was a little different though. It was a plate with 2 kebobs. On the skewer were two fried birds. Everything was intact except the beak. The skewer went through the body of the bird.
The neck curved around to bring the head into position for the skewer to go carefully into one eye and out the other. Two birds to a skewer for a total of four. I looked at it. Jon looked at it. Then I realized I was drunk. The green stuff was ALCOHOLIC! Luckily the fact that I was a bit tipsy helped me to eat these birds on a stick. I didn't feel right taking pictures of it as I felt it would be offensive. Later, someone told me it may have been duck. If anyone has an idea, I'm STILL curious to know what it was. All in all, it didn't taste that bad and after dinner, the cook had no problem understanding the word sake.I left feeling more than buzzed and less than drunk. It was night out and the neon lights were on. There was a plaza that sat above a street and young people sat up there to hang out and play the guitar as traffic drove on underneath them.
Large groups. Small groups. All young people sitting together discussing things of what appeard to be great importance, or playing music, sing alongs... I remember in my drunken haze saying that "radiation brought about the premature neon glow hippies and it's fuckin' beautiful". Now, in retrospect, I'm not sure if that statement makes any sense. I'm not really even sure it is a coherent statement. I'm sorry if it offends anybody but to this day that phrase brings back the neon relaxed energy of that plaza that night and I stand by it.Jon took the lead in getting us back to Sasebo. He found a bus station and organized the booking. All I had to do was wait for the bus and sit down. I did that pretty well right before passing out in the bus and waking up what seemed like two minutes later in Sasebo.









