Markets and Museums

Buenos Aires Travel Blog

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The Evita Memorial in front of the National Library.

Caught the subte to Retiro Station and walked up Av. del Libertador to the artisans market near the Recoleta Cemetery.  Lots of stalls here on a Saturday, but have to say most of it is the same old stuff.  We did find a really cute knitted llama for our nephew, no loose parts either so he´ll be able to chew on it to his heart´s content!  Went across the road to the Museo Nacional de Belles Artes, another museum with free entry and an incredible collection.  They have everything from El Greco to Rodin to Toulouse Lautrec, Picasso and Pollock.  There are some good Argentinian and Latin American artists, but the international works are far better than we thought they would be.  The temporary exhibition of Korean art does not make us want to rush to any Korean galleries any time soon!

Kept heading up Libertador past the National Library, which has a small plaza in the front with a large monument to Evita Peron.

The Museum of Decorative Arts.
  She died on this site, when the president´s residence was here (before it was knocked down by the military regime to expunge any memory of Evita - not very successfully).  Next stop was the Museo National de Arte Decorativo (after a spot of lunch at a local cafe), a French-designed small palace built in 1911 for an elite local family.  It became a museum in the 1930´s and is filled with furniture, sculptures, porcelain and so on.  It also houses the largest collection of miniatures in Latin America.  The rooms themselves are quite ornate, particularly the hall with its enormous fireplace and ´carved´roof.  The whole thing looks medieval, but is in fact not even 100 years old, with the carvings actually moulded plaster.  Well worth the A$2 entrance fee!

Our last visit for the day was the Evita Museum in Lafimur 2988 (via a cake shop!).  Heard some pot banging around this area - there is a major dispute on at the moment between farmers and the government in Argentina, and the locals support the farmers by getting out on their balconies and banging pots and pans!  We thought they were just calling their cats at first, but then realised what was going on when we saw on the news that a protest leader had been arrested.  The Evita Museum is in the premises of a womens and childrens home run by Evita´s foundation, and as well as all the mementos of her life, each room has a little sign saying what it was used for.  There are lots of her clothes on display (very stylish), plus all sorts of written information and even video footage of her acting work.  The final room relates to her death at 33 years old, and the video even shows her damaged, embalmed body as it was after the military gave it back to the family for interment.  The museum is a little more expensive, at A$10, but does a good job of keeping the Evita cult alive - you will find no criticism of her here!  From here, we walked past the zoo and gardens to get the subte home.  The zoo walls have lots of posters telling people not to abandon their pets, must be a problem here - though most of the dogs roaming the streets seem to be well cared for.

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The Evita Memorial in front of the…
The Evita Memorial in front of th…
The Museum of Decorative Arts.
The Museum of Decorative Arts.