everything a girl could want....

Argentina Travel Blog

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paragliding over El Bolson, Northern Patagonia

Argentina is a great country, with so much diversity in landscape and experiences. From the uber-cool Buenos Aires, to the chocolate rich friendly Bariloche, the falls and the cattle ranches up north, some mudbrick homes, new modern homes and then the beautiful old cathedrals and plazas. Everywhere the people are so friendly and distinctly and proudly Argentinian. It is easy to travel through and reminds me a lot of home. Everything a girl could want - sexy cowboys, shopping, chocolate, dancing, beautiful landscapes, wineries and waterfalls.

In El Bolson, a little hippie town with great icecream i spend the last few days with the crew i met in Futalaefu.

sunrise, with full moon setting near Bariloche
We eat too well, drink and fly. First time I try paragliding! The landscape is stunning and we spend ages rising higher and higher then spinning and falling fast, to rise up on the thermals again. It feels so free and exhilirating, or peaceful just to lay back and stare at the sky and not hear a sound.

I needed a little bit of time to relax alone so I packed my bag and headed off on a hike near Bariloche for 3 days. The landscape is magnificent, with jagged rocks balanced atop steep mountains, green valleys and little refugios on the edge of lakes, waterfalls and forests and rocky slopes. It is perfect and I feel rejuvenated immediately. I hike alone during the day, sliding down scree slopes and skinny dipping under a cold waterfall.

katie, claire, tom and i
Then meeting some amazing locals from Bariloche and travellers in the evening for chats, packet pasta, wines, chocolates (of course - the necessity of every hiker) and card games by candle and fire light. The refugios are very friendly with everyone cooking together then sleeping in one big room, and all in stunning locations. It is a full moon and I get up for sunrise, where the mountains light up red and the moon is setting in the lightening sky. perfect!

Buenos Aires. The city i could live in. Except maybe i would spend all my time and money shopping, eating steaks and ice cream, dancing til 8am and not much else. And i see family for the first time in months! My sister, Claire and her boyfriend Tom are starting their trtavels through South America.

the cemetry in BA
So excited to see them! We end up travelling together for a while.

The nightlife is a bit unique in BA. We dance in a club with clowns and dancers that culminate in semi erotic dancing on stage at 6am. Then we visit a gay club where some of the best people watching are the trannies in the girls bathroom refining their makeup. And big world name clubs and little places underground. And one of the best places in South America to mix with locals.

Well I did make it to the cemetry which is beautiful and somber, and full of cats. With Evita Peron´s mausoleumThe stark white tombs against the greying sky creates a memorable picture. And San Telmo to wander the markets and El Bocca with the multi coloured wood buildings by the port, both places where you can watch dancers tango in the street.

claire and me at Iguazu Falls

Claire, Tom, Katie (a friend i met in Brazil) and I go to Iguazu Falls. We saw it from every angle, including from a zodiac right underneath the waterfalls - literally - which are strangely different temperatures. We know we are going to get wet, and we get soaked, but Tom in speedo, goggles and a life jacket is still hilarious! Love the poses! We catch a little train to the Devils Throat where a torrent of water thunders down 80m, starting from and amazingly calm wide river. So much water churns through the narrow gorge, fed by many other falls in a horseshoe shape - Iguazu has 275 falls which cascade down over cliffs and through jungle. It is stunning.

Argentina is the place to gaucho it up. The Gauchos are the very proud cowboys of Argentina and great horsemen - they live on horseback.

guacho style
They live simply and love the outdoors, are creative - especially with music and dancing. One of our guide´s entire family including mother and grandmother and all of his 12 siblings were gauchos! Claire, Tom and I spend 2 days near Salta, staying in the old farmhouse and riding all day. And eating huge barbeques and drinking copious amounts of wine from a monastery with the crude and hilarious Enrique. (Sayta Cabalgates). The horses were fantastic, of course. We rode, cantering or walking slowly, down little country lanes, waved at people working beside their mudbrick homes, past tobacco farms and over rocky rivers and up into the green hills.

From Salta the 3 of us rented a car and drove through some of the most diverse and magnificent country I had seen.

the jagged landscape between cafayate and cachi
Starting past multi coloured hills, through narrow gorges such as "Devils Throat", past formations looking like the Castle or the Frog, and into the tranquil wine country of Cafayate. If you go try the wine flavoured ice cream. We toured the wineries, getting a little tipsy. Then the following day head through a strange landscape of jagged rocks clawing at the sky. Then clearing to be covered in cactus, with little thatch roof homes with tomatoes being sundried above the baked earth. Little white churches, still lakes and then to green pastures at 3000m above sealevel. It looks like flat ground, just above the clouds. Then plunge into a steep pure green valley. And head north the next day where the new game was counting how many colours you could see in the rock mountains and cliffs.
the old church in salta
The minerals in the ground made this area almost surreal with purples, oranges, greens, reds and yellows stripped through the rock layers. Up to Pumarmarca whose claim was the 7 colour mountain. And Tilarca to explore a town that has not seemed to change in centuries. It was an amazing couple of days that my senses needed a rest from afterwards.

Salta was a great place to hang out and I met some awesome travellers whilst laying by the hostel pool. The highlight was a night out with Claire to a restaurant in an old colonial home with many different rooms. In each room there are different groups of locals singing and playing music. Really casual and you can wander from room to room listening to the music and trying your best when they drag you up to dance the Argentinian way. Chewing coca leaves and drinking cheap wine with coca cola.

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paragliding over El Bolson, Northe…
paragliding over El Bolson, North…
sunrise, with full moon setting ne…
sunrise, with full moon setting n…
katie, claire, tom and i
katie, claire, tom and i
the cemetry in BA
the cemetry in BA
claire and me at Iguazu Falls
claire and me at Iguazu Falls
guacho style
guacho style
the jagged landscape between cafay…
the jagged landscape between cafa…
the old church in salta
the old church in salta
stayed in a refugio on this lake n…
stayed in a refugio on this lake …
katie, hilariously, is afraid of c…
katie, hilariously, is afraid of …
big beers for big nights out
big beers for big nights out
iguazu falls walking map
iguazu falls walking map
Tom.... maybe my future brother in…
Tom.... maybe my future brother i…
riding near salta
riding near salta
brilliant horses
brilliant horses
hug a tree ... or cactus - cuidado
hug a tree ... or cactus - cuidado
llama
llama
the little church in the middle of…
the little church in the middle o…
church in tilcara
church in tilcara
the multi coloured landscape
the multi coloured landscape
multi coloured hills
multi coloured hills