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perfecto perfecto perfecto!!

Manta Travel Blog › entry 9 of 43 › view all entries

This trip comes at a break point in life: - My business is 10 years old & moving into a new season - My debut album is finished & getting stocked in shops during jan08 - My wife & I are looking to set up a new biz within activity-based travel - We're both looking to get more stuck into church projects We have an opportunity to take a break and get a refresh before it all kicks off again so we're visiting Ecuador, Argentina, Chile, New Zealand, Fiji, and Japan - this is the blog!

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perfecto perfecto perfecto!!

January 8, 2008

...this is what I shouted excitedly to my surf guide this morning. Today was breakthrough day - conditions where relatively small (2-3 ft) but completely clean waves. I had the mini-mal / longboard and I just got clean-faced wave after wave after wave. The particular spot on the beach break meant that 20 yards to my left was a righthander and 20 yards to my right was a lefthander so I just swapped and changed all morning practising my left and rights.

It was just awesome. all of a sudden surfing made sense and it was so peaceful on these glassy faces.

I'm completely stoked today. It's made such a difference to my boarding being able to go everyday