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Surfers' (Add Favoured Religious Pilgrammage Site Here)

Dominical Travel Blog › entry 46 of 69 › view all entries

A basic grasp of Spanish and a general northern bearing should eventually lead me to Cancun. That is should...

Surfers' (Add Favoured Religious Pilgrammage Site Here)

Not bored of these yet
Adios Uvita, Bienvenidos Dominical
OK, I've been avoiding here for a reason.  I met a bloke in Jacó who had learned to surf in Dominical and he scared the bejesus out of me.  I really wish I hadn't met him.  Dominical is great, much smaller than Jacó and Tamarindo and none of the attendent saucy industry.  I think there is a reason for this - the beach is unswimmable.  It has a very strong rip-tide and throws rocks onto the shore the size of your fist.  It is quite good fun to watch surfers at high tide - they wait for the sea to draw back, then take a running jump as it comes back in, leaping over the break and landing on their boards.

Note for crap surfers (like me) - the best time is about 3 hours off high tide for about an hour and a half.
Welcome to the Gulag
  The paddle out isn't too bad and huge monster waves don't rear up out of nowhere.   But hitting a wave here is truly fabulous - it is worth the battering.

Little, but with heart
Sprawling metropolis it aint, Dominical is just a couple of streets at the moment (although it won't be in two years).  Sadly, a lot of the businesses seem American owned - I say that because it would be nice to have some ticos running more places.  That said, my hostel was Tico run and... more later.

The thing there is no shortage of is stuff to do with surfing - perhaps not surprising, I think it is really the only reason people come here.  That however is a shame, as it is tucked into some of Costa Rica's most beautiful coastline.
View off the balcony
  Someone is going to make some money here opening a tour operation soon.

It has a few nice places to eat and quite a few places to stay, although in the week it seems a little dead - which really isn't a problem for me.  One thing that is occuring is a number of main road developments - shopping centres and larger hotels a little out of town.  That is why I think it is going to expand exponentially soon.  If you like small, go now.  Otherwise wait a few years and all the strip joints you could ever wish for will be here.

Dominical Backpackers Hostel
A review of the actual place is attached, but the experience needs its own section.  I got off the bus at the main road and walked down the main street.
OK, there was one other guest
  I saw a few places, but then espied a sign that advertised the above.  "My sort of place," thought I.  The road branched right towards the beach - it was getting better - then forked back towards the river with surf crashing to my left.  Most excellent.  Then I arrived and it is utterly run down and decrepit - the photo really is flattering.  I really is a dump and frankly not worth $10 a night except, it was mine.  Unlike the Tucan Hotel, it had no pretensions, it was next to the beach and it had a (dodgy) balcony.

I have also never had the experience of staying alone in a hostel for 20 people before.  Yes, there was some pretty young thing from Brighton there when I arrived, but she just slept (or hid) and was gone the next day.  It was a bit eerie - the hostel equivalent of The Shining.  Still, I was only sleeping there, so who cared?  All that remained was to hire a board (a mere $20 per day oh Tucan Hotel), buy a six pack of Bavaria with no frowns and enjoy the sun.  Bliss.
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Not bored of these yet
Not bored of these yet
Welcome to the Gulag
Welcome to the Gulag
View off the balcony
View off the balcony
OK, there was one other guest
OK, there was one other guest
Frankly, a bit of a dump. And an insecure one at that. Its location is superb, a literal stones throw from one of Costa Rica's prime surfing beaches. To be fair, it also seems quite clean and the fridge works. However, there are issues:

1. It doesn't have any locks on the dorm doors, which means...

2. The outside door is your only barrier. And how do you open that? Go to the office of the cabinas next door, put your hand through the bars and press a switch. EVERY person in Dominical must know about that. Which is...

3. Why they recommend, nay, demand, that you hand them your valuables for the safe and why I suspect the advertised Cable TV is missing from its old iron cage.

I fashioned my own security lock for the dorm by pulling a bunk bed in front of the door while I slept. Fine when you're the only one there...

The balcony has a nice view though and the showers are alright (although not operational as warm showers...). At $10 a night though, it is a tad expensive for what it is.

Shame as I think it is the first hostel I have stayed in which is owned by Costa Ricans.
For creating your culinary delights
dougal says:
Sounds like a student halls of residence to me!
Posted on: Feb 26, 2007
Just a hundred metres or so down from the beautiful old hostel is Tortilla Flats, an American owned restaurant and cabina set up. It has an open bar with a big screen TV (had Spanish subtitled Star Wars 3 on one time) and seating for about 30 odd. Nice little place, relatively reasonable with some good food.

Breakfasts were big enough for a days surfing ahead and free refills for coffee (even when I went back for lunch). The evening meals were also good - the fish nicely cooked and plenty of chips. :) The annoying people opposite me (loud, brash, fat, etc) had the lobster which looked really good. I say "the" lobster, of course they ordered two each. Insane, they took one home with them. I just don't get gluttony.

Good place though.
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