Mary, Mother of God
San Juan del Sur Travel Blog› entry 29 of 72 › view all entries
November 28th, 2006 – by: Higton
So then, San Juan, or should we say Saint John of the Sea - quite apt. I came here to learn a bit more Spanish. A week´s intensive course including food, lodging and a surfing lesson (that never materialised) costs $130 - this is about $100 cheaper than Costa Rica. Plus, my 90 day visa was expiring, so I needed to get out - fast.
It seems I´m too late. Property speculators seem to be doing what the US Government couldn´t by slowing purchasing Central America into submission. Like many Costa Rican Pacific coastal towns, San Juan is over-run by Americans. Gladly, the rampant sex tourism found in places like Jacó doesn´t exist. That said, it is a nice enough place and has some fabulous surfing beaches nearby.
Jesus and friends
I was also there for the run up to Christmas. The main upshot of this would seem to be the prevalence of fireworks. And at 7 in the morning, fireworks are shit.
I was staying with a Nicaraguan family, led by Guadaloupe and Jesús. It was all a bit weird as there was religious iconography everywhere, which makes me uncomfortable. And then I woke up one morning to find it taken to a new level (as per photo). They turned there living room into a shrine, including a large Madonna with a 4-inch screw thread sticking out of her head. If it wasn´t disrespectful, I´d say it was stolen.
So I went out for my lesson, and returned to find the place swarming with the town´s matriarches and a nun. Oh, and a five piece band. Really, not my scene, but fascinating to watch. Madonna was loaded onto a Chevy pick-up truck along with her flowers and, held steady by a child, was paraded around the streets, trailed by the nun and the band. Religion freaks me out.
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