On a tip from a gent on myspace (oh, life before travbuddy...) and a back-pack full of brown bread and nutella sandwiches, we caught the first DART out of Dublin
and headed to Howth
(pronounced like both
). Being the August bank holiday, the harbor and town were still sleepy around 9:30am. Our goal was to find the cliff walk, but we had no map or directions, so we just followed the road around the peninsula until there was no more road, but a dirt foot path behind houses. We... might have been trespassing... but no one yelled at us, so we went on. We found some old stone houses, and had lunch in a little crook on the top of a rock cliff.
"I think we might be trespassing..."
Nutella tastes a hundred times better smothered between two slices of brown bread eaten on a windy cliff top. After lunch and some more exploring, we found what has to be the "official" cliff walk along the water's edge. There were some more people there too, locals walking their dogs, canadians with trekking sticks. We ignored the "Dangerous Cliffs" signs and wandered off to the edges and took some pictures. Pictures somehow don't do it justice though, and if I had all the time I would take my oil paints and make an Impressionist-like painting of the green, purple and yellow cliffs. Then maybe, I could portray how beautiful it actually is to someone who's never seen it.
It was around 3ish when we started heading back to town. We started talking with a guy whose family had livedin Howth for generations (and he had amazing cute dogs.
Munching on chips by the harbor
..). He showed us where his grandfather had built house on the crest of the hill solely for the view and while the amazing view was now blocked by bushes, his aunt still lives there. I asked him about our trespassing along what was possibly someone's back yard, and he said "no one's going to stop you! people have been going through there for hundreds of years, they can't stop anyone from going through there." We were hungry for a bit of a snack too and he recommended Cafe Ciara for "the best chips in all of Ireland, made by Italians." They had an eat-in restaurant, but being such a gorgeous day, we opted for take-out. So with fresh fried chips and tea in hand, we sat by the harbor with the loads of holidayers that were now out and about. We daydreamed about one day buying a house in Howth, and spending every lovely day off by the harbor eating chips and drinking tea and walking our cute dogs along the cliffs. (ah... what a lovely dream...) After our snack, we headed back to the train station to catch the DART back to Dublin.