Zagreb
July 12, 2006
Met with the founders of Pogodak, a leading Croatian search engine. We talked a little bit of business and then they gave me a tour of the city, local style. Local style in this case meant riding on the back of a scooter while crusing throughout the entire city and the experience was amazing to say the least. We went to a restaurant where we we served some of the most delicious veal I have ever had in my life, and then headed to a manmade lake slightly outside of town where Zagrebians go to escape the summer heat and city. Then it was back to the city center to relax, chat, and people watch.
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The Ravnice Youth Hostel is located a bit out of the way from the city center, but it is easily accessible by tram and within walkable distance of the biggest supermarket I have seen in Eastern Europe. The staff will do your laundry for you for a small fee (around $5), which is a godsend if you are busy and tired of wearing the same shirt for three days in a row. Internet is also available for a small fee.
Rooms are small and a bit crowded, but also clean. The hostel seems to lean towards the social side, but its not so loud or raucous that it is impossible to sleep if you want to turn in early.
Rooms are small and a bit crowded, but also clean. The hostel seems to lean towards the social side, but its not so loud or raucous that it is impossible to sleep if you want to turn in early.

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Small restaurant near the bottom of the funicular that takes people up a hill to Upper Town. I arrived here with some friends and we asked to sit outside and enjoy the weather, but they said that they only serve food inside. Inside was a cavernous like dining area that was completely deserted. We sat at a small wooden table in the corner of an empty room, so the ambience wasn't too great. It was around 7pm, and I asked the waiter where everyone was. He said that most Zagrebians don't eat out for dinner on weekdays (or at least they didn't eat at this particular establishment).
I ordered a hearty meat dish with peppers, but it was less than awesome. The meat seemed a bit overcooked and too chewy. Service was friendly, but the weak atmosphere and food killed it for me.
I ordered a hearty meat dish with peppers, but it was less than awesome. The meat seemed a bit overcooked and too chewy. Service was friendly, but the weak atmosphere and food killed it for me.
If you are in Zagreb during the summer, before everyone vacates the city for the seaside in August, the outdoor cafes in the streets south of Trg Bana Jelacica square are the place to be. I was with two young Croatian hosts, and here is how we spent an evening:
1. Find an empty table at an outdoor cafe.
2. Drink some beer.
3. Chat and people watch.
4. Leave and walk 100ft down the street to another nearby outdoor cafe.
5. Drink some beer.
6. Chat and people watch.
7. Repeat.
Apparently a lot of other people were doing the same thing, because we ran into a lot of their friends while doing this. It was actually pretty fun, because there are constantly people walking around, so it's a great scene for people watching. If you don't want to drink, there are plenty of places that offer snacks, coffee, and desserts too.
1. Find an empty table at an outdoor cafe.
2. Drink some beer.
3. Chat and people watch.
4. Leave and walk 100ft down the street to another nearby outdoor cafe.
5. Drink some beer.
6. Chat and people watch.
7. Repeat.
Apparently a lot of other people were doing the same thing, because we ran into a lot of their friends while doing this. It was actually pretty fun, because there are constantly people walking around, so it's a great scene for people watching. If you don't want to drink, there are plenty of places that offer snacks, coffee, and desserts too.
Lots of streets like this one, w…
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This gothic cathedral, located in the upper town ("Gornji Grad") of Zagreb is worth checking out if you are in the area. Built in the 11th century, it is one of the more impressive buildings in Zagreb, and the interior is elaborately decorated. My favorite part about the cathedral was the odd looking old text carved into its walls, which my Croatian friend told me was an alien language from outer space ;)
There is also a pretty cool outdoor market in the courtyard in front of the church. Some of the fruit didn't look too fresh, but probably better than what you might find elsewhere.
Lake Jarun is a manmade lake a few miles outside the city. It is a bit difficult to get to (I rode there on the back of a moped), but offers what is apparently some of the best nightlife in Zagreb. Many bars line the shores of the lake and tons of people come here to bar-hop all night. My favorite stop along this stretch was the Piranha Bar, a cool outdoor place with a bar centered around a giant fishtank full of real life pirahnas.
If you get bored of the bars, lots of people seem to just hang out along the shores of the lake and chill too.
If you get bored of the bars, lots of people seem to just hang out along the shores of the lake and chill too.
Lake Jarun, peaceful during the …









