Ljubljana
July 14, 2006
Before coming here I couldn't even pronounce the name of the city (LOO-BLEE-YANA). Ljubljana, the capital city of Slovenia, is a small, beautiful town. The old town reminds of Prague, but far less touristy.
I spent my first full day there walking around the town, around the university area. While relaxing on a park bench and writing post cards, I struck up a conversation with Tina, a university student studying urban planning. She had a sheet of paper with a map of the park and it was her job to record the movement patterns of everyone passing through, then manually enter in all of the information into a computer. The point of this exercise is apparently to analyze the data and then find out ways to make parks more efficient and well-utilized. Slovenians take their parks quite seriously.
While we were chatting we were approached by none other than a Mormon missionary from Utah, the first native english speaking voice I had heard in days. He was quite polite but it was nonetheless interesting to see that Mormon missionaries are inescapable even in the middle Eastern Europe.
Later that night, I went back to the hostel and met up with Blue and Sian (two Aussies working as bartenders in London), Chris (from New York), and Issac (from Texas). We then proceeded to go out and get some drinks and socialize at some pretty interesting places: First stop was the "skeleton bar", an underground venue with fake skeletons rotating on rotisseries under the floor and a bathroom located behind a secret bookcase in the wall. Second stop was a cave-like place next to the river that was so dark and relaxing that we had to get out of there before all of us fell asleep.
The final stop was Metelkova Mesto, a former area of town that used to be a military barracks and then a squatters colony. When we arrived, I felt like we were trespassing into someone's crazy idea of a backyard house party. There was a beat up wooden porch with a bar, a group of Germans spraying graffiti onto the wall, people gyrating spastically to reggae music, all set in a neighborhood that looked like it had been bombed out and should have been vacated years ago. At first we were a little bit spooked, but once we started talking to people they all seemed pretty friendly, like a group of peace loving hippies.
I spent my first full day there walking around the town, around the university area. While relaxing on a park bench and writing post cards, I struck up a conversation with Tina, a university student studying urban planning. She had a sheet of paper with a map of the park and it was her job to record the movement patterns of everyone passing through, then manually enter in all of the information into a computer. The point of this exercise is apparently to analyze the data and then find out ways to make parks more efficient and well-utilized. Slovenians take their parks quite seriously.
While we were chatting we were approached by none other than a Mormon missionary from Utah, the first native english speaking voice I had heard in days. He was quite polite but it was nonetheless interesting to see that Mormon missionaries are inescapable even in the middle Eastern Europe.
Later that night, I went back to the hostel and met up with Blue and Sian (two Aussies working as bartenders in London), Chris (from New York), and Issac (from Texas). We then proceeded to go out and get some drinks and socialize at some pretty interesting places: First stop was the "skeleton bar", an underground venue with fake skeletons rotating on rotisseries under the floor and a bathroom located behind a secret bookcase in the wall. Second stop was a cave-like place next to the river that was so dark and relaxing that we had to get out of there before all of us fell asleep.
The final stop was Metelkova Mesto, a former area of town that used to be a military barracks and then a squatters colony. When we arrived, I felt like we were trespassing into someone's crazy idea of a backyard house party. There was a beat up wooden porch with a bar, a group of Germans spraying graffiti onto the wall, people gyrating spastically to reggae music, all set in a neighborhood that looked like it had been bombed out and should have been vacated years ago. At first we were a little bit spooked, but once we started talking to people they all seemed pretty friendly, like a group of peace loving hippies.
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There isn't a ton of stuff to see in Ljubljana, so you'll probably make your way to the National Museum at some time or another. Compared to other museums it's pretty small, but it contains a lot of local history. Ljubljana used to be a Roman settlement (Founded by Augustus almost 2000 years ago), so there are lots of ancient Roman archaeological exhibits here. Most of the stuff is in Slovenian, however.
I wouldn't plan to spend more than an hour here, but it's worth checking out if you have some free time and get bored of walking around the city.
I wouldn't plan to spend more than an hour here, but it's worth checking out if you have some free time and get bored of walking around the city.

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This was one of the coolest bars I went to during my Eastern Europe trip. You descend down some steps into a small, dark basement type room and the first thing you notice is a skeleton behind a glass panel on the floor. I heard that it rotates around on a spit, but it wasn't moving when we were there. The walls of the place look like the stones of a tomb or dungeon, but it is surprisingly cozy.
There weren't too many people there when we arrived, but it was still a fun environment. There are 2 for 1 cocktail drink specials, and the cocktails are pretty tasty and strong, so it's a pretty good bargain for a night out.
Tip: If you are looking for the bathroom, it's hidden behind a secret bookcase by the entrance :)
There weren't too many people there when we arrived, but it was still a fun environment. There are 2 for 1 cocktail drink specials, and the cocktails are pretty tasty and strong, so it's a pretty good bargain for a night out.
Tip: If you are looking for the bathroom, it's hidden behind a secret bookcase by the entrance :)
Enjoying 2 for 1 cocktails in th…
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It's a bit of a walk to hike up the hill where the castle is, and there isn't a whole lot to see once you get to the top, but Ljubljana Castle is well worth visiting for the great views of the city itself. Once you get to the top, you have a 360 degree view of the city, and it is probably one of the more charming cityscapes around.
One thing that I thought was pretty cool: while admiring the view, somebody asked the tour guide "Why aren't there any houses on the hills? In America those would be the most expensive houses and have the best views!" The tour guide responded that the hills looked prettier without houses on them, and as such they didn't build houses on them! Don't know if that's true or not, but it makes for a good story, and illustrates a different way of looking at things.
One thing that I thought was pretty cool: while admiring the view, somebody asked the tour guide "Why aren't there any houses on the hills? In America those would be the most expensive houses and have the best views!" The tour guide responded that the hills looked prettier without houses on them, and as such they didn't build houses on them! Don't know if that's true or not, but it makes for a good story, and illustrates a different way of looking at things.
One of the cleanest hostels and thoughtfully decorated hostels I've stayed at. It's a tiny hostel, with only ~15 or so beds and one bathroom, but it also has lots of advantages. The beds are comfortable and clean, there is a kitchen, and internet access is free. There is also a kitchen that is free to use, and the supermarket right below the hostel makes it easy to cook meals on the cheap. The location can't be beat -- it's right across the street from the main square and river.
There were only about 5-6 people there while I was here, so I can't comment on what it's like when it's completely full. But the crowd was really good and I met some great people here! We made a day trip to Lake Bled together and another guy I met at the hostel is now one of my good friends down here in LA! Your mileage may vary, but Fluxus seems to generally attract a more laid back and relaxed crowd.
The owners of the hostel are also incredibly friendly and helpful. Highly recommended.
There were only about 5-6 people there while I was here, so I can't comment on what it's like when it's completely full. But the crowd was really good and I met some great people here! We made a day trip to Lake Bled together and another guy I met at the hostel is now one of my good friends down here in LA! Your mileage may vary, but Fluxus seems to generally attract a more laid back and relaxed crowd.
The owners of the hostel are also incredibly friendly and helpful. Highly recommended.
My bed. Basically, I had the ent…









