The Bir Sur
Big Sur Travel Blog› entry 1 of 2 › view all entries
Thanksgiving Day, my friend Carlos and I have been preparing for this trip. Neither one of us has family in the
Friday, we woke up at 5am, chili, my head was numbed, the water was intolerable, but the waves were perfect. I we surfed for about 4 hours straight at an undisclosed location, for our benefit. Friday afternoon we decided to look for a camp site father north.
Saturday... we woke up at a glorious sight; I had ripped my wetsuit after hitting a few jagged rocks at the peak were we surfed the day prior. These are the pictures of the what seemed a crowed beach... I guess people knew the swell was coming!!!!!
The video is from the last swell, where veteran Mr. Modavi lost his life... this is, in some way, a tribute...