Hello Darling
November 8, 2007
After surveying the weather prospects for the coming days, we realised that the dream of hitting the open road on a motorbike was perhaps a little unrealistic. Especially when it came to luggage considerations - would a single malt be a better bet against the rain and cold than a jersey? Would we need a change of dry clothes, or could we rely on body heat to steam ourselves dry? It all seemed a bit iffy, and middle-aged self-preservation instincts set in and we reluctantly cancelled the bike, and went off to collect the hired car.
Setting off took us down the licorice tangle of M5 / N1 out onto the coast road, via a rather unfortunate detour through Paarden Eiland owing to navigational lapses of concentration, but finally we were whizzing past Woodbridge Island - if the sedate doddle of a Piccanta can be deemed "whizzing". The R27 felt familiar from last year's West Coast outing, with the traffic thinning once we'd passed the suburban sprawl of Blouberg. Ahead, the asphalt beckoned invitingly, and we stretched out languidly, filling our mouths with chocolate coffee beans and our hearts with song.
The Swartland, named after its characteristic dark renosterbos (rhinoceros bush), is the grain growing area of the Western Cape, and clothed in golden undulations interspersed with newer vineyards as wine growing becomes more popular. Well, as the Bible says, "man shall not live by bread alone".
We spotted birds along the roadside, guessed wildly at the identity of roadkill, and shrilled as we dodged kamikaze tortoises that appeared from nowhere like obstacles on early computer racing games. And then suddenly, unexpectedly, the turn-off appeared. Leaving the comfort of the tar, we hit the gravel of the Darling Hills Road, laughingly comparing its fine state to the rougher West Coast roads from last year. We came soon enough to the Guesthouse and settled in.
John pointed out an owl's nest in the tree outside, and two cute owlets squinted grumpily at us as we cooed and clucked and photographed their deceptive cuddliness. At a watchful distance, a far more imposing parent kept a wary eye.
That evening we drove into town and dined at Bistro Seven, returning through a fine cloak of owls before snuggling up for the night to their soft calls and the whisper of the wind in the trees.
Setting off took us down the licorice tangle of M5 / N1 out onto the coast road, via a rather unfortunate detour through Paarden Eiland owing to navigational lapses of concentration, but finally we were whizzing past Woodbridge Island - if the sedate doddle of a Piccanta can be deemed "whizzing". The R27 felt familiar from last year's West Coast outing, with the traffic thinning once we'd passed the suburban sprawl of Blouberg. Ahead, the asphalt beckoned invitingly, and we stretched out languidly, filling our mouths with chocolate coffee beans and our hearts with song.
The Swartland, named after its characteristic dark renosterbos (rhinoceros bush), is the grain growing area of the Western Cape, and clothed in golden undulations interspersed with newer vineyards as wine growing becomes more popular. Well, as the Bible says, "man shall not live by bread alone".
We spotted birds along the roadside, guessed wildly at the identity of roadkill, and shrilled as we dodged kamikaze tortoises that appeared from nowhere like obstacles on early computer racing games. And then suddenly, unexpectedly, the turn-off appeared. Leaving the comfort of the tar, we hit the gravel of the Darling Hills Road, laughingly comparing its fine state to the rougher West Coast roads from last year. We came soon enough to the Guesthouse and settled in.
John pointed out an owl's nest in the tree outside, and two cute owlets squinted grumpily at us as we cooed and clucked and photographed their deceptive cuddliness. At a watchful distance, a far more imposing parent kept a wary eye.
That evening we drove into town and dined at Bistro Seven, returning through a fine cloak of owls before snuggling up for the night to their soft calls and the whisper of the wind in the trees.
Faced with a dilapidated schoolhouse, John and his father had two choices - an "accidental" fire and an insurance claim, or lots of hard work. They opted to do The Right Thing, and the result is a beautifully restored thatched building, divided into two self-contained units. The larger unit sleeps six, perfect for a family; the smaller unit sleeps two - ideal for a romantic getaway.
The units are both fully equipped - besides the self-catering kitchens, there are braai facililties outside should you prefer to harmonise with the rolling farmlands surrounding the cottage. If you prefer to dine out, a file provides a list of restaurants in Darling, a short drive away.
But far enough away for the night sky to be undiluted by lights - the nights are the starriest, clearest and most achingly beautiful to behold. Gum trees whisper softly in the breeze, hosting owls, doves, red bishops and hadedahs among the countless birds that flicker through your framelines. The silence is thick and soft, a baby's blanket to calm you to sleep.
Breakfast bread, eggs, milk, yoghurt, etc is left waiting for you in the fridge for when you wake to the soft calls of the nearby sheep.
If you're looking for a place to reconnect with your lover or with your soul, close enough to the City to slip away at a moment's notice but remote enough to leave it all behind, Ye Olde School Guest House will touch your heart like a lover and fire your soul like a kiss.
The units are both fully equipped - besides the self-catering kitchens, there are braai facililties outside should you prefer to harmonise with the rolling farmlands surrounding the cottage. If you prefer to dine out, a file provides a list of restaurants in Darling, a short drive away.
But far enough away for the night sky to be undiluted by lights - the nights are the starriest, clearest and most achingly beautiful to behold. Gum trees whisper softly in the breeze, hosting owls, doves, red bishops and hadedahs among the countless birds that flicker through your framelines. The silence is thick and soft, a baby's blanket to calm you to sleep.
Breakfast bread, eggs, milk, yoghurt, etc is left waiting for you in the fridge for when you wake to the soft calls of the nearby sheep.
If you're looking for a place to reconnect with your lover or with your soul, close enough to the City to slip away at a moment's notice but remote enough to leave it all behind, Ye Olde School Guest House will touch your heart like a lover and fire your soul like a kiss.

Not expecting a whole lot to be happening in Darling on a Thursday night, we arrived at the restaurant unannounced and enquired about a table for two. That this was met with a pause, an "I'll see what I can do", and a few moments to acquaint ourselves with the sweet little pub, we took to be a good sign.
A table was found, and we soon found ourselves surrounded by an exuberant throng of people celebrating something or other in a large group, and a couple of other diners like ourselves in tidy couples.
The menu was pleasant, with a selection of both local cuisine and more generic, and the quality and presentation were superb.
The ambience was charming without being pretentious, though I was a little disturbed at the gender stereotyping played out in the framed pictures in the toilets: the men's had a selection of local political cartoons - mostly Zapiro - while the women's was altogether more frothy in content. (And what was I doing in the men's, you might ask...)
A table was found, and we soon found ourselves surrounded by an exuberant throng of people celebrating something or other in a large group, and a couple of other diners like ourselves in tidy couples.
The menu was pleasant, with a selection of both local cuisine and more generic, and the quality and presentation were superb.
The ambience was charming without being pretentious, though I was a little disturbed at the gender stereotyping played out in the framed pictures in the toilets: the men's had a selection of local political cartoons - mostly Zapiro - while the women's was altogether more frothy in content. (And what was I doing in the men's, you might ask...)










