Day 22

Koh Phi Phi Travel Blog

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Day 22 – November 14, 2007

One thing I will say about every location around the world.  Transportation hustles are an absolute.  It doesn’t matter if it’s a bus station, ferry terminal or an airport.  There is always someone there to offer you a taxi or the best ticket price as a special deal just for you.  Phuket is no different.  Before we’d even left our hotel there was a guy there carrying our bags to his “taxi” which turned out to be his own personal car, but he was willing to give us a ride to the ferry terminal so that he could tell us about all the great accommodation deals he could get us on Koh Phi Phi.  

After finally buying our own tickets from a reputable company, we found the same thing on the other side of the water, people trying to hustle us into a “great deal” on a hotel.  We quickly realized that if we just went to the guest houses we were going to get a much better deal than having someone escort us to their current highest commission.  

We found a box of a room with a private bath and a fan for 1100 baht (about 35 – 40 dollars depending on the current state of the US economy).  I wasn’t overly thrilled about it so we decided that I was going to run around the little town quickly to see if I could find anything better.  After about 10 minutes I stumbled on K House.  The rooms are clean, the beds are big, they have their own bathrooms, air conditioning and the nerd without borders holy of holies – wi-fi.  I was afraid it was going to be way out of our price range but she told me that it would be 1500 baht per night.  Without trying to look too shocked I told her we’d take it.  I left to go get Jared and got to thinking that maybe she’d said 2500 baht, it just seemed too good to be true, so I went back to ask.  As soon as she saw me she thought I’d come back to negotiate, so she looked quickly around and whispered that for me, she would give it to me for 1300 baht per night.  I smiled and said “perfect” and went and got Jared.

After settling in, we headed to the beach and I realized I had found my own idea of paradise.  I can’t image the Garden of Eden being any more stunning than the beach I set foot on today.  The water is so many shades of blues and greens you couldn’t even begin to count them all.  It’s so clear you can see to the sand at all depths and the coral snakes its way through it like a puzzle.  Thousands of fish swim just below the surface and are in every color of the rainbow.  The cliffs jut out of the water straight vertically and are covered in lush mangrove and palm trees.  The sand is like powder and barely darker than snow.  Truly the most beautiful place I have ever seen with my own eyes.  

The Sunflower is a chill little beach bar with tables and chair or mats and pillows on the sand.  It has good food and better drinks and is run by Max, the Johnny Depp pirate rasta of Thailand.  If Captain Jack Sparrow were Thai, he and Max would be twins and the only way to tell them apart would be that Max apparently does not own a shirt and doesn’t really see a need to.  I have a feeling the Sunflower and I will become good friends in coming days.

After a hard day sunbathing at the sunflower we determined it was time for a massage seeing as how it had been at least 3 or 4 days since the last one.

I have never seen a tide as low as the one I saw tonight.  The water went from being knee – waist deep even 200 feet out to being almost gone and beaching many of the long tail boats.  There was a soccer game with real goal posts happening on the empty flats and we waded through the ankle deep water watching crabs and little fish.  I thought this was amazing until Jared informed me that incredibly low tides were the first sign that the Tsunami was coming.  On December 26, 2004 people flocked to the beaches to see the unusually low tides and were greeted with the 90 foot wave that wiped out most of the island.  Even now almost 3 years later you can see the massive re-building efforts underway.

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