Reggae Luau

Canoa Quebrada Travel Blog

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Richard left early this morning and the pousada said i can stay for 20, so i'm gonna kick it here by myself for a few days.

as usualy, i woke up pretty early. i finally found a bakery that makes hot sandwiches and had a GIGANTIC breakfast there: coffee, orange juice, grilled ham and cheese sandwich, slice of cake.....i went a little overboard, but it was worth it. afterwards i went straight to the beach with my book and settled inside a crack i found in one of the cliffs that lines the beach, nice sandy shady seat to read on. after i felt i'd had enough foucault, i changed into my bathing suit and went for a walk.

todays walk sent me really far. i probably walked for about 2 hours, praciticing my pandeiro most of the way, and got to a REALLY empty stretch of beach. when i decided i'd gone far enough, i really isolated myself by ditching the beach and walking through a crack in the cliffs to the desert you can't see from the beach. i laid out my towel on a hard flat rock with a view of the water in front of me, some big dunes behind, and a spattering of run down farm houses around me. it was a beautiful spot, and it was all mine.

after a bit more reading and laying about in the sun, i decided to find some lunch. i walked a little further and found myself at the next touristy beach, majorlandia, where i had a tall beer and nice big oily plate of shrimp. even though this place had pousadas and restaurants, i was probably only sharing the beach with maybe....2 or three other families and a couple.

walking back i played the pandeiro a ton. it had gotten kinda late, having spent a very full day on the beach, so i decided to walk straight up to the sunset dune to...well, to catch the sunset. obviously. on the dune i saw a few familiar faces, including this one kid who i saw yesterday with a berimbao, playing reasonably well and offering to sell it to toursists. once again, he tried to sell me his instrument. ironically, a few minutes later, the string broke. after he fixed it, i waved my pandeiro at him, and he invited me over to play. we jammed a bit into the sunset, and then he offered to give me capoeira classes. i was getting kinda annoyed that he clearly didn't want my friendship, just trying to warm me up to sell me shit, so i decided to watch the rest of the show alone.

i hung out at upstairs for awhile, talking with the kdis who run my building. after warming up last nights rice, i took a power nap. when i woke up, the town was LOUD. it was about midnight and hey, firday night, but there had been ZERO nightlife up until now. i was genuinely impressed. when i hit the street, i actually saw a fair amount of people out and about. lord knows hwere they came from, cause there sure hasn't been that many people on the beach. i didn't really like the music at most of the places i saw, so after walking through town i decided to go to the beach to look for this luau i'd been hearing about since i got here. it wasn't hard to find. the Freedom Bar, the resident reggae bar on the beach, was lit up, blasting reggae, and even had a nice bonfire going. the party started out slow but got really packed as it got later. at one point it started to rain, so the dancefloor got even more crowded/intimate than it walredy was. met a bunch of good people, locals and tourists alike, including an american (a real rarity in brazil). around twilight, lets say 4:30ish, i decided id had enough reggae and hiked back to bed.

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Canoa Quebrada
photo by: eli_ep