Deja Vu

Recife Travel Blog

 › entry 51 of 73 › view all entries

Exhausted from last nights festivities, i slept in and missed breakfast. I joined the nutty brits i was hanging out with last night for lunch at a nearby kilo restaurant, where we spent basically the whole meal laughing about different things yogi-the-german had said. after eating i hopped over to the medical post which was basically next door to get the yellow fever vaccine. getting vaccinated here was nice: there was basically no line, didn't have to fill out a bunch of forms or even present ID, and it was totally free (and yes, they did use a new needle). thing was, any information i wanted i had to solicit, like the important fact that i couldn't drink for the next four hours, and that if i got a fever within the next two days it was a normal reaciton. luckily i knew theright questions to ask, but still i thoguht the nurses complacency was alittle wierd: normally, allopathic medicine holds informed consent to be an unbreakable law, and here i was at a health center where i just went in and asked for a vaccine and got stuck basically 2 minutes later. whatever, works for me.

afterwards i went back to the hostel and started packing up to move out. i was still really tired and didn't really feel like it, but i had to move next door cause i came here without reservations. It was a kind of ugly day, overcast and drizzly, so i finally got around to sitting down with this medical manuscript a colleague of my fathers gave me to edit. i really need themoney, so there's no explaining why i put this work off all month (getting the first print out of the manuscript wet at morro was a bit of a deterrent though). after about an horus work i find myself chasing a group of brazilians from the hostel to the famous Boteca do Velo at Quatro Cantos for empadas.

I left the party after maybe an hour withthe intention of moving to my new digs and resting, but as soon as i got there i met another american who invited me out and for seom reason i agreed. before we left i took a shower. doesn't soudn significant, but i have my own room at this place, a HUGE bed, and they even gave me a towel and soap. i've beenstaying in collective rooms for weeks now (since i left salvador really), so let me just say i was in love. and i got soak it in while i can: in a few days i move into the CouchSurfing house with roughly 30 other people for the next week.

outside the hostel we bumped into tiago, my olindense friend who is just everywhere. we all headed across the street to the main stage to find Beth Carvalho, a pretty big name in samba, putting on a free show. awesome. Tiago showed me how to dance samba correctly (apparently i move my feet too much, which only girls can do. but hey man, its fun) and i goofed around approaching girls pretending i didn't speak portuguese, then headed back to the HI hostel after the show to meet up with the brazilians from earlier. after along delay kicking it around the hammocks, we finally got themomentum to head into recife for terca negra (black tuesday). there, we danced a bunch to afroxe, which i learned isn't really performance music but is actually somewhat religious (candomble or umbada or something). abunch of the kids in our group weren't down for some reason--i think they were put off by the magical aspects of the afroxe culture and the fact that there were a bunch of gay guys making out around us--so we all headed down the street to rua das moedas to find a better party. we were surprised to find a thrash metal show playing, but luckily we found our way back to Zero Um (01), the reggae bar.

this was my second terca negra. my first, in october, i followed up by heading over to 01 as well. the place hadn't changed at all. i even saw some of the same people from last time, minus tiago who i saw earlier anyway. its a fun scene and realy laid back, although kind of sketchy: people are smoking and selling weed all over the place, so it attacts a pretty mixed crowd. still, we had fun.

afterwards, we trepidatiously crossed the bridge to find the bus. luckily, we didn't run into any trouble, but we did here a gun shot sound behind us. recife ain't the safest place around, but we made it home safe and sound, where i gladly collapsed into my huge bed to sleep in again.

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photo by: Paulovic