Salvador da Bahia Travel Blog› entry 39 of 73 › view all entries
After using all of the first to recover (i could've gone to see daniella mercury perform at barra for free, but i mean, fuck daniella mercury), i wanted to go out today. I'd originally planned to go to Igreja do Bonfim, but put it off for too long so decided to chek out the mercado modelo and then the afro-brazilian museum at terreira de jesus.
Mercado ribeiro....sucks. i'd been assured by others that it was worth checking out, but quite frankly it represents everything i hate about salvador: the prositution of the city's culture. the market is just aisles upon aisles of the same crap you find in the streets. moreover, i was unlucky enough to have showed up on a day when a cruise ship was in the nearby port, so it was loaded with tourists, bumping up prices.
i took the elevador lacerda for the first time in 5 years to get to pelourinho, where i learned that no one had heard of the museum. i'd been wandering around pelourinho alot lately and wasn't sure if i felt like doing it some more tonight, but i wandered here and there anyway. I made the dumb mistake of sitting near a capoeria roda. they saw my pandeiro and kept signalling me to play with them. in retrospect, it woulda been fun trying to play even though i'd only just bought the thing and hadn't had any lessons, but i was too shy.
I wanderd back and forth, here and there until dark. it was cool watching the area change as the sun set, filling up with tourists and music and turning flourescent. walking through praça da sé, i heard some brazilian gangsta rap being pumped out by a coffee vendor. I walked by, but couldn't let it go so i turned around to get the name of the band.
walking around, a guy selling berimbaos on the street invited me to a capoeira roda at a nearby class. when i got up the stairs, i was dissapointed to find there were maybe 3 people there, and they were just sorta hanging out. i went to talk to the class organizer anyway to get some tips about my pandeiro and local beaches. she obliged, and for a few minutes i entertained the idea of buying a class for tomorrow. another knock to my pandeiro came when she invited a little girl nearby to play my pandeiro. the girl took a few smacks, laughed at it, then pulled at a professional one to show me the difference. wouldn't ya know it, they sold em there.
i was getting bored, so i decided if i couldn't find any decent music, i'd head home. Looking for that music, i happily bumped into the spaniards! coincidentally, they'd just called my house and left a message for me. we got some drinks, then checked out a batucada i'd heard about wandering around. Group called Muzanze performed. Started with a typical percussion only batuque, then the line up changed and it turned into a samba-reggae show.
Dancing was fun and wierd. there was a group of maybe 4 people who were really good at dancing who basically led everyone else. during different songs different ones would lead, but there was basically always one person showing off a certain repetitive dance move that everyone else followed. it was like a line dance version of simon says, and lasted until the dance floor got so crowded the people in the back couldn't see the poeple in the front. sadly, the show ended around midnight. i would've liked to keep dancing, but we all decided to get some sleep so we could get up early to check out the island of itaperica tomorrow.