Bahia rhythm

Salvador da Bahia Travel Blog

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dominoes is popular outside mercado modelo

After using all of the first to recover (i could've gone to see daniella mercury perform at barra for free, but i mean, fuck daniella mercury), i wanted to go out today. I'd originally planned to go to Igreja do Bonfim, but put it off for too long so decided to chek out the mercado modelo and then the afro-brazilian museum at terreira de jesus.

Mercado ribeiro....sucks. i'd been assured by others that it was worth checking out, but quite frankly it represents everything i hate about salvador: the prositution of the city's culture. the market is just aisles upon aisles of the same crap you find in the streets. moreover, i was unlucky enough to have showed up on a day when a cruise ship was in the nearby port, so it was loaded with tourists, bumping up prices.

berimboas at terreiro de jesus. note the lame tourist posing capoeira in the back
still, i bought some stuff anyway: a pandeiro, which i'd been meaning to buy anyway so i could have a musical instrument to keep me company, a blue and white necklace that has significance in candomblé (apparently the colors represent the new year, or i was lied to) and also is a key accessory for the popular carnaval bloco filhos de ghandi.

i took the elevador lacerda for the first time in 5 years to get to pelourinho, where i learned that no one had heard of the museum. i'd been wandering around pelourinho alot lately and wasn't sure if i felt like doing it some more tonight, but i wandered here and there anyway. I made the dumb mistake of sitting near a capoeria roda. they saw my pandeiro and kept signalling me to play with them. in retrospect, it woulda been fun trying to play even though i'd only just bought the thing and hadn't had any lessons, but i was too shy.

pelourinho at night
one of the guys came up to talk to me, and when i pulled out my cheap pandeiro, his face turned cold and he said "oh...you just bought one to decorate your house..." man, that made me feel low. i explained to how i wanted a pandeiro because it was light and good to backpack with and wanted a cheap one in case it got fucked up, but he still made me feel bad about buying a low-qual one.

I wanderd back and forth, here and there until dark. it was cool watching the area change as the sun set, filling up with tourists and music and turning flourescent. walking through praça da sé, i heard some brazilian gangsta rap being pumped out by a coffee vendor. I walked by, but couldn't let it go so i turned around to get the name of the band.

Racionais MC's
Dude pointed to the group of friends behind him and said "os racionais. that's them right there. wanna buy a cd?" yeah. yeah i did.

walking around, a guy selling berimbaos on the street invited me to a capoeira roda at a nearby class. when i got up the stairs, i was dissapointed to find there were maybe 3 people there, and they were just sorta hanging out. i went to talk to the class organizer anyway to get some tips about my pandeiro and local beaches. she obliged, and for a few minutes i entertained the idea of buying a class for tomorrow. another knock to my pandeiro came when she invited a little girl nearby to play my pandeiro. the girl took a few smacks, laughed at it, then pulled at a professional one to show me the difference. wouldn't ya know it, they sold em there.

muzanze getting their batuque on
i thanked em for the advice and hospitality, but didn't end up going in on a class.

i was getting bored, so i decided if i couldn't find any decent music, i'd head home. Looking for that music, i happily bumped into the spaniards! coincidentally, they'd just called my house and left a message for me. we got some drinks, then checked out a batucada i'd heard about wandering around. Group called Muzanze performed. Started with a typical percussion only batuque, then the line up changed and it turned into a samba-reggae show.

Dancing was fun and wierd. there was a group of maybe 4 people who were really good at dancing who basically led everyone else. during different songs different ones would lead, but there was basically always one person showing off a certain repetitive dance move that everyone else followed. it was like a line dance version of simon says, and lasted until the dance floor got so crowded the people in the back couldn't see the poeple in the front. sadly, the show ended around midnight. i would've liked to keep dancing, but we all decided to get some sleep so we could get up early to check out the island of itaperica tomorrow.

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dominoes is popular outside mercad…
dominoes is popular outside merca…
berimboas at terreiro de jesus. no…
berimboas at terreiro de jesus. n…
pelourinho at night
pelourinho at night
Racionais MCs
Racionais MC's
muzanze getting their batuque on
muzanze getting their batuque on
this dude just spun around in danc…
this dude just spun around in dan…
fruits outside mercado modelo
fruits outside mercado modelo
some run down buildings below the …
some run down buildings below the…
interesting contrast, the new towe…
interesting contrast, the new tow…
this monumets nickname in portugu…
this monumet's nickname in portug…
some church in pelourinho
some church in pelourinho
por-do-sol
por-do-sol