Axe on the beach
Porto Seguro Travel Blog› entry 46 of 73 › view all entries
Planning this trip, I had figured that if I made it as far south as porto seguro, I would focus on the nearby beaches I'd heared were gorgeous: Praia do Espelho, Trancoso, and Caraiva. Traveling here with friends, i ended up staying a week at Arraial D'Ajuda instead, and i didn't think the place was that interesting. The gang was starting to split up a little anyway: juan and richard were planning on going down to trancoso, and the brazilians were planning to go down to caraiva the day after. I decided i'd had enough of southern bahia, and the time had come for me to turn around and head for recife, where i plan to spend carnival. I decided to B-line it so i could maximize time with this girl i'd met in october. instead of sacrificing the area beaches entirely, i decided to head to trancoso for the day with the other two gringos, then take the evening bus that night. We celebrated our last night (the 23rd) by finally opening up the vodka watermellon we started a few days ago. we used cheap vodka and only got half the bottle in the mellon, but it was still pretty gross for the most part and quickly changed the party atmosphere into the chore of killing the mellon, which we didn't successfully accomplish.
Trancoso day rolled around. The gringos and I woke up early, packed up, cleaned up the mess from the night before, and said goodbye to the brazilians (although juan and richard were planning on meeting up with them the next day in caraiva). The bus to trancoso took forever to show up, and when it finally did it was full. as time wore on, it became clear that it wouldn't be worth it for me to go to trancoso if i was still planning on heading out, so when their bus came i said goodbye (even though i'm seeing both of them again in rcife for carnaval) and scored a kombi ride to the docks. as I waited for the ferry to head out, i was surprised to be hailed by filipe: apparently, the whole brazilian crew was on the ferry; the four of them were driving up to the nearby beach of Itacimirim. There was space in the car, so i decided to tag along: i had nothing better to do for the next 5 hours, and i could do worse than spend them at the beach.
the beach was much better than any at arraial: there was sand for one thing. the beaches at arraial d'ajuda are built up right to the waters edge. also, the beach was PACKED. entering the beach we walked through a huge party area at the "axe moi," where a flaming transvestite was singing axe to a large group of bathing suit clad dancers, who were being cooled periodically by jets of water from the pipes surrounding the dance floor.
I changed into my bathing suit and we got a table by the water. After a few drinks, i heard a samba pumping nearby and decided to go investigate. i was surprised to find a whole (maybe 9 piece) orchestra on the beach, just kicking it, playing songs between drinks. i hung out, got a few pandeiro lessons on the spot, and was stoked to play along with the band for a few songs (there were 2 pandeiros present, so any mistakes i made got covereed up by the pro). the biggest lesson i learned was that i never should have bought the cheapo pandeiro. cause playing a real one is way different.
after a few more beers, i said my goodbyes, took my last shower on the beach (which wasn't sufficient to keep me from being al ittle salty on the bus) and caught the next bus back to porto seguro. at the bus stop i ran into salame and his gang (the sambistas) playing, so i busted out my pandeiro and joined in. salame got a kick out of how poor quality my pandeiro was, cringing and shaking his head at. on the bus i tried to dry my bathing suit out the window, unsuccessfully. at the modest rodoviaria, i ran some errands online up to within 15min of my bus's departure time, unwisely went straight from the computer to the luncheonete where i pointed to the first three satisfying looking fried objects in the window (had them nuked of course), then jumped on the bus as it was pulling out to head to salvador.