The Biker and the Buddha

   

While crossing the Tran Phu Bridge, the big Buddha beckoned from across town - sitting tall and bright under gray skies. Zig-zagging random back-streets, I made my way in that direction. The enormous white statue reappeared from the busy boulevard just past the train station but no roads or signs pointed toward it. I doubled back for a hundred yards before breaking left from on-coming traffic and into a narrow alleyway. Another lead me upward. The winding climb became steep so I only pedaled a portion of the way.

 

An occasional deep gong resonated from a wooded hill-side turn-out. The Long Son Pagoda, ornate with strong Chinese influence, straddled shaded stairs leading up the hill. Beggars, rare in the city, roamed the vicinity and slouched or sprawled on the concrete steps.

Some beggars were deformed with twisted limbs, some were amputees; others - old, frail, and dignified. Several would have provided unique photo opportunities but drawing the complete attention of all in eye-sight put me off on exploring the idea, or the area, any further - this day anyway. I continued by road to the top of the hill.

 

I coasted to a dusty coffee stand near wide steps. An elderly man running the outdoor café nodded where to park the bicycle and it was reassuring to have its presence acknowledged by a local. Locked or not, new or old, a stray bicycle makes an easy mark for would-be thieves. The old man would prevent that misfortune.  

 

 The bulk of the monument loomed when I topped the hill.

Built in 1963, the nine meter-high Buddha sits cross-legged like a meditating giant facing Nha Trang and the South China Sea. Some of the straggling visitors approached the Buddha's pedestal to offer sticks of burning incense and to pray. Others shunned kids selling post cards by gesturing their digital cameras. Views of the shoreline and coastal islands seemed distant by growing city. To the southwest, green rice paddies stretched closer to town than I would have expected.

 

Coasting down the hill would be suicidal due to marginal braking of the Martin 107. The bike already shows signs of wear with handlebars working loose every few miles. Sometimes I would turn them but the beast continued straight ahead. A 12mm wrench from a back pocket checked that hazard but the ride down Big Buddha hill is no place to discover, or induce, new mechanical problems.