L'Union Sovietique
October 5, 2007
Tashkent Friends
My first impression of Tashkent was that it was surprisingly modern and huge. As the flight from Osaka descended over the Uzbek capital, one could see a sprawling metropolis that was a stark contrast to the earlier views from the aircraft. We flew over some of the harshest landscapes on the planet on our way from Japan to Uzbekistan, including the Taklamakan desert and the Tianshan. So, it was refreshing to find a metropolis criss-crossed with wide avenues and patched with large green areas.
On the ground level, Tashkent exudes a distinct Soviet feel, most of its buildings having been built during the Soviet era. It feels very much like a middle-sized Russian city, complete with Metro and tram. In addition to the Soviet-built infrastructure, there is a large and visible Russian community.
Uzbekistan Airways
But there are, of course, many differences. Tashkent does not have much of nightlife compared with the Russian cities of Moscow and Saint Petersburg. In fact, the city is half dead after 8 pm. All the traffic signs are in Uzbek and are written using Latin alphabet. The food is different, even though there are elements of Russian influences like salads. And there seemed to be quite a few people adding traditional accessories to their modern outfits, such as the doppi (a four-cornered cap for men) and colourful scarves with traditional patterns (which are different from the Paranji, which has religious implications).
Tashkent does not have the romanticism associated with the Silk Road, but it does give the visitor a sense that it is very much at the crossroad between the East and the West because of its multicultural inhabitants.
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Tashkent Friends
Uzbekistan Airways
Buffet at Rovshan Hotel
Korean Supermarket
Apartment Blocks
Apartment Blocks
Mirabad Bazaar
Apartment Blocks
Tashkent International Airport is a modern airport. It is currently undergoing extensive renovation. The arrival hall is still a bit dark, but the departure hall is clean, modern and relatively efficient. There are some shops in the terminal as well. Although limited, these shops make a good stop for late-minute shopping. The bar near the boarding gates does not accept the local currency, soum, so prepare some US dollards if you think you will be chilling out there. The bar in the departure hall, however, accept only soum. Both are overpriced, though.
There are two very important things to mind in Tashkent International Airport. The first is the airport bus and the second the custom declaration form.
The first point: when the plane arrives at Tashkent International Airport, a couple of busses arrive to transport you to either a connecting flight or to the arrival hall. You have to make sure you are on the right bus. This might change, as the airport is undergoing extensive rennovation. New boarding gates were being constructed. For departing flights from Tashkent, there are already boarding gates, so the passenger does not have to be transported on a bus.
The second point: you must prepare two copies of the declaration form. The form is available after the immigration counters, at the baggage reclamation area. Do not loose them. For some reason, getting out of Uzbekistan is much harder than entering it. When you are departing, you have to prepare another couple of copies of the form. The form is available near the check-in counters.
Lastly, it is important to remember that no photographs should be taken at the airport. This also applies to some public facilities in Uzbekistan, such as secured bridges and Metro.
There are two very important things to mind in Tashkent International Airport. The first is the airport bus and the second the custom declaration form.
The first point: when the plane arrives at Tashkent International Airport, a couple of busses arrive to transport you to either a connecting flight or to the arrival hall. You have to make sure you are on the right bus. This might change, as the airport is undergoing extensive rennovation. New boarding gates were being constructed. For departing flights from Tashkent, there are already boarding gates, so the passenger does not have to be transported on a bus.
The second point: you must prepare two copies of the declaration form. The form is available after the immigration counters, at the baggage reclamation area. Do not loose them. For some reason, getting out of Uzbekistan is much harder than entering it. When you are departing, you have to prepare another couple of copies of the form. The form is available near the check-in counters.
Lastly, it is important to remember that no photographs should be taken at the airport. This also applies to some public facilities in Uzbekistan, such as secured bridges and Metro.
I flew on an Uzbekistan Airways direct flight from Tokyo to Tashkent. The word "direct" is misleading here, however. It stops at Kansai Int'l Airport in Osaka before flying to Taskent. In view of the heightened security at airports all over the world, the little transit at Kansai Int'l Airport can be time-consuming (stops for about an hour). The positive side to this is that it makes a great stop for making last-minute shopping in Japan.
Uzbekistan Airways operates its flights between Tashkent and the Japanese cities of Tokyo and OSaka like a loop. So, when you board the plane at Tokyo-Narita, there are people flying in from Uzbekistan whose final destination is Osaka. This is probably due to their cost-saving measures.
Apart from that, flying on Uzbekistan Airways was not bad. The flight attendants were all very helpful and spoke excellent English. A few even spoke Japanese. In addition, you get rewarded by the view from the aircraft. When approached from the south (i.e. South Asia and Southeast Asia) or the east (i.e. East Asia), Central Asia is surrounded by formidable mountain ranges, and the view is spectacular on a clear sunny day.
Uzbekistan Airways operates its flights between Tashkent and the Japanese cities of Tokyo and OSaka like a loop. So, when you board the plane at Tokyo-Narita, there are people flying in from Uzbekistan whose final destination is Osaka. This is probably due to their cost-saving measures.
Apart from that, flying on Uzbekistan Airways was not bad. The flight attendants were all very helpful and spoke excellent English. A few even spoke Japanese. In addition, you get rewarded by the view from the aircraft. When approached from the south (i.e. South Asia and Southeast Asia) or the east (i.e. East Asia), Central Asia is surrounded by formidable mountain ranges, and the view is spectacular on a clear sunny day.
Uzbekistan Airways
A friend of mine, a resident in Tashkent, took me to this friendly and lively restaurant. Popular with locals, the restaurant offers a wide variety of traditional Uzbek dishes as well as some Russian dishes (or dishes that were popular throughout the former Soviet Union) like Salad Olivier. We had some local red wine, called "Mona Liza," along with our food. The wine went rather well with the food. Uzbek food tends to be savoury and filling, so the light and fruity Mona Liza was an excellent compliment to our dinner.
It can be noisy and busy inside the restaurant, especially on Friday evenings. When we went there, which was precisely a Friday evening, they were playing music at full blast. For those who prefer a more quiet setting, seats in segregated rooms are available at request. Most of the customers seemed oblivious to the loud music, however. Instead, they were enjoying it. They turned the restaurant into a loud disco! As much as for enjoying local dishes, "Bek" is an excellent place for getting a taste of the local night life.
Right next to "Bek" is another restaurant "Sayor" operated by the same company. "Sayor" is more upscale, cleaner and more atmospheric than "Bek."
It can be noisy and busy inside the restaurant, especially on Friday evenings. When we went there, which was precisely a Friday evening, they were playing music at full blast. For those who prefer a more quiet setting, seats in segregated rooms are available at request. Most of the customers seemed oblivious to the loud music, however. Instead, they were enjoying it. They turned the restaurant into a loud disco! As much as for enjoying local dishes, "Bek" is an excellent place for getting a taste of the local night life.
Right next to "Bek" is another restaurant "Sayor" operated by the same company. "Sayor" is more upscale, cleaner and more atmospheric than "Bek."
Main Dish at "Bek"
"Angel's Food" is a western-style cafe that is popular with foreign expats in Tashkent. It is probably the closest thing to McDonald's and Starbucks in Tashkent. This is also one of the few wi-fi spots in the city; hence, the people with laptops.
After having a gorgeous dinner at "Bek," we went to "Angel's Food" to have some sweets. I ended up having an ice cream combo --- and it was surprisingly tasty! Apart from ice cream, they have a wide variety of light meals and deserts. So, there is something for everyone's taste... except, maybe coffee. The coffee that is offered at "Angel's Food" is Nescafe. Unfortunately, this is pretty much the case in Uzbekistan, unless you're in a five-star hotel (where you would be charged US$10 for a cup of espresso). Uzbekistan is a tea-drinking country. You would be muce better off drinking tea in Uzbekistan. As the saying goes: "When in Rome, do as the Romands do."
After having a gorgeous dinner at "Bek," we went to "Angel's Food" to have some sweets. I ended up having an ice cream combo --- and it was surprisingly tasty! Apart from ice cream, they have a wide variety of light meals and deserts. So, there is something for everyone's taste... except, maybe coffee. The coffee that is offered at "Angel's Food" is Nescafe. Unfortunately, this is pretty much the case in Uzbekistan, unless you're in a five-star hotel (where you would be charged US$10 for a cup of espresso). Uzbekistan is a tea-drinking country. You would be muce better off drinking tea in Uzbekistan. As the saying goes: "When in Rome, do as the Romands do."
Rovshan Hotel was difficult to find, especially at night. It is tucked inside a quiet residential area. The area is home to a number of small to medium-sized hotels. There are also a number of embassies in the area, including Turkmenistan and Russia. The hotel is not in the centre, but it is close from the Mirabad bazaar and a number of restaurants. The area around the Mirabad bazaar has a visible ethnic-Korean presence. There are a number of shops and restaurants with signs written in Hangul.
The hotel itself is a bit dark inside but clean and safe. My room was spacious and equpped with a bathroom, a TV set and two beds. The receptionists were intimidating at first. But once approached, they were quite helpful. Breakfast buffer is offered to the guests every morning.
The hotel itself is a bit dark inside but clean and safe. My room was spacious and equpped with a bathroom, a TV set and two beds. The receptionists were intimidating at first. But once approached, they were quite helpful. Breakfast buffer is offered to the guests every morning.
