Endlich Me(e/h)r sehen
October 12, 2007
Endlich mehr sehen - wenn auch nur ein bisschen. Ein Blick über den Rostocker Stadthafen.
Rostock war nun angesagt. Als ich bei Jule erst ziemlich spät aufstand, freute ich mich schon riesig auf die Stadt, weil ich endlich das Meer sehen wollte. Zuerst musste ich aber noch einmal in die Schweriner Altstadt, denn eines wollte ich auch: mehr sehen. Ich hatte am Vortag, das unangenehme Gefühl, nur durch die Stadt gehetzt zu sein und alles ein Bisschen aber nichts ganz aufgenommen zu haben und beschloss, mir in Zukunft mehr Zeit für die einzelnen Städte zu nehmen beziehungsweise gezielt weniger Sachen auszusuchen und diese dafür intensiver wahrzunehmen.
So ging ich als erstes noch einmal zum Dom, wo ich das Glück hatte, genau zum Mittagsgebet anzukommen. Ich setzte mich in eine der Kirchenbänke und lauschte den Worten der Pfarrerin, während ich meinen Blick durch das schöne gotische Gebäude schweifen ließ.
Die Universität zu Rostock
Es war schon fast um vier als ich meinen Daumen ausstreckte und ich hatte beim Gedanken an die Hassetappe von Berlin nach Wittenberge, bei der ich fabelhafte 30 Kilometer geschafft hatte, ein beunruhigendes Gefühl, denn von Rostock trennte mich noch mehr als das Dreifache dieser Distanz.
Noch einmal der Rostocker Stadthafen mit dem Büro und Hotelschiff "Georg Büchner" im Vordergrund.
Dann lernte ich Lars und seine Feundin Nicole kennen, deren runder Bauch nicht übersehen ließ, dass die beiden schönerweise bald zu dritt sein würden.
Überbleibsel aus der Sowjetzeit: Das Denkmal des revolutionären Matrosen.
Und das habe ich auch ganz gut geschafft. Gegen Mittag startete ich zu einem groß angelegten Stadtrundgang. Ich ließ mich einfach durch die Straßen treiben und hatte am Ende gute 10 Kilometer zurückgelegt (siehe Review). Der Tag war großartig und der Sonnenschein wurde nur von einigen Schönwetterwolken unterbrochen. Ich ging natürlich zuerst zum Hafen und war so glücklich endlich über das Wasser sehen zu können, obwohl ich nur das Hafenbecken vor mir hatte.
Hier hätte ich bleiben können: Blick auf Warnemünde vom Ende der Westmole
Da es Freitag war, wollte ich abends natürlich herausfinden, ob Rostocker auch feiern können. Ich zog los und fragte die ersten Party People, die ich traf nach einer Empfehlung.
Der Alte Strom in Warnemünde
Erkenntnis der Tage: Hab Vertrauen! Schlechte Tage gibt es, damit bessere folgen können.
Held der Tages: Nicole mit ihrer grandiosen Suppe.
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When I was in Rostock I did a city tour on my own and just walked trough the streets as it seemed good and interesting to me. The result was a really beautiful walk which actually didn't cost anything and included the most important things to see in this town. It's a circle tour, so you can start at any point.
I started at the monument of the revolutionary sailor which is situated at the western end of the city port. The monument is left from the time when Rostock was part of the GDR, which was controlled and influenced by the USSR. So it's quite typical for the Sovjetian architecture and honours the happenings of the October Revolution in Russia.
>From there go down "Am Kabutzenhof" and then turn right into "Doberaner Straße". On the right hand side you can see the church "Jesus Christi der heiligen letzten Tage" in "Budapester Straße" which is quite small and not that important. But if you follow "Doberaner Straße you have the theatre on the left hand side. Especially on the evenings there are interesting role plays, music performances and much more to see.
Directly after the theatre you can see the brewery of "Rostocker" beer which can be visited if you are at least ten persons and notify beforehand (see www.rostocker.de).
But before reaching the brewery you should turn right into "Margaretenstraße" from where you can watch the backward side of the building which is decorated with a huge graffiti artwork. Following "Margaretenstraße" you will see the curch "Heilig-Geist-Kirche" which was built in 1905 in a neogothic style and is really cute. A huge part of the community consists of students and young people and also many concerts and other cultural events take place there. I recommend to walk around the church once and go down "Kirchenstraße" before turning right into "Ottostraße".
On the crossing with the next street, "Barnstorfer Weg" you can see the "Café Lom" which is a real discovery for everyone who is hungry between 11 am and 3 pm and likes indish tandoori cooking. In a great atmosphere you can choose one of six tasty dishes which are really huge and provided with additional bread. Afterwards you'll be fed up having paid just 4 Euros.
Leaving "Ottostraße" you should turn left into "Barnstorfer Weg" and you'll come to "Doberaner Platz" which is a huge square with tiny little "telephones" (tubes running across the square permitting to talk, just try it). There are also many cabarets and music bars.
>From there go down "Gertrudenplatz" and then turn left into "Lange Straße". Then you'll already see the "Kröpeliner Tor", an old gate of the city wall and one of the symbols of Rostock which was built in 1270 in a Gothic style. If you have a closer look you can see that the colour of the lower bricks differs from the upper part indicating that the gate was expanded in 1400. Also the traces of the connection with the wall are still visible. For 1 Euro you can climb up the stairs inside the building and get a nice view over Rostock. Quite often there are also exhibitions within the gate which are included in the entry.
Now you have to choose: If you like shopping you should go down "Kröpeliner Straße" ending at the new market place. But I would prefer entering the park starting at "Kröpeliner Tor" and walking along the old city wall. When you reach "Schwaansche Straße" turn left and then right again into "Altbettelmönchstraße" where you can find the monastery "Michaeliskloster" which was constructed in 1480. After being destroyed in World War II it was rebuilt and houses a protestant community center and a library today. At the end of "Altbettelmönchstraße" turn right into "Rungestraße" before reaching Wallstraße and the roses garden. Just turn left and walk trough the garden. Then you'll arrive at the "Steintor", another old gate of the walls surrounding Rostock which was built in 1279 destroyed and reconstructed several times until it got its renaissance look of today.
Just go straight ahead into "Ernst-Barlach-Straße" and then turn left into "Beim Kuhtor" where you can find the next gate "Kuhtor" which is the oldest one in northern Germany as it was built in 1262. It was really important until it was replaced by the "Steintor". Afterwards it was used as a prison and flat. Now it's the seat of the "Literature House Rostock" and many cultural events take place there.
Now keep left and go down "Beginenberg" for some metres before turning right into "Große Wasserstraße". Follow this branched street (Attention, it's not running straightly) and you'll see the "Kerkhoffhaus" which is considered the best preserved Brick Gothic house in Rostock. Directly afterwards you'll arrive at the new market place. There you can see the town hall with its baroque facade covering an older Gothic brick wall and the paintings under the collonades. At the market place you can also find the city museum and six original, beautifully restored, gable houses from the 15th and 16th centuries.
>From there go down "Kröpeliner Straße" until you arrive at a huge fountain, the "Brunnen der Lebensfreude". The cute building behind is the university of Rostock. If you are interested you can walk down the street "Klosterhof" which is on the left side of the university building and you'll arrive at the monastery "Kloster zum Heiligen Kreuz" which consists of several buildings with a beautiful cloister and houses a museum.
>From the university go back again "Kröpeliner Straße" and take the last street on the left side before reaching the market place which will lead you to the basilica "Marienkirche" which is the most impressing church in Rostock. It is a typical building of the brick gothic period and has a really pompous inner room.
From there go towards the market place and then keep left until you turn right into "Vogelsang". Now turn right into "Kleine Wasserstraße" and then left into "Fischbank". Follow this street until you reach the end and then turn right into "Wollenweberstraße". Now turn left again into "Brauergasse" and then right into "Altschmiedestraße". This part of the walk leads you through a residential area with cute little Hanseatic houses which are typical for the architecture of Rostock and other Hanse cities.
Going down "Altschmiedestraße" you'll arrive at the church "Nikolaikirche" which was built in 1230. Today it has no religious importance but works as a cultural centre and houses several flats under the roof. You should walk around the building turning left into "Bei der Nikolaikirche" from "Altschmiedestraße" and then turning left again into "Lohgerberstraße".
Following this street you'll reach the old market place and the church "Petrikirche" with the highest tower of all the churches in Rostock which has become a symbol of the city that can be seen from far away. You can climb up the stairs to the observation platform with a height of 45 metres giving a beautiful view over Rostock. With good weather you can even see Warnemünde and the Baltic Sea from there.
Now go down "Alter Markt" and turn left into "Am Berg" which will lead you to the Franciscan monastery "St. Katharinen" which was founded in 1243 an is now used as the seat of the "Academy of Music and Theatre Rostock". Go down "Am Berg" and then turn right into "Grubenstraße". Cross the main road "Am Strande" and make your way to the water.
Now your walk is almost finished. Just go along the water, relax and enjoy the beautiful view over the port or over the city. You'll pass many sailing boats and old warehouses and have the perfect opportunity to let the impressions of the day pass by in your mind before you arrive at the starting point again.
I hope you've enjoyed it!
PS: If you are in Rostock you mustn't miss Warnemünde. It's reachable by train in about 20 minutes and really beautiful. Go down "Alter Strom" along the port and towards the beach and walk up to the end of the western pier. It's wonderful!
I started at the monument of the revolutionary sailor which is situated at the western end of the city port. The monument is left from the time when Rostock was part of the GDR, which was controlled and influenced by the USSR. So it's quite typical for the Sovjetian architecture and honours the happenings of the October Revolution in Russia.
>From there go down "Am Kabutzenhof" and then turn right into "Doberaner Straße". On the right hand side you can see the church "Jesus Christi der heiligen letzten Tage" in "Budapester Straße" which is quite small and not that important. But if you follow "Doberaner Straße you have the theatre on the left hand side. Especially on the evenings there are interesting role plays, music performances and much more to see.
Directly after the theatre you can see the brewery of "Rostocker" beer which can be visited if you are at least ten persons and notify beforehand (see www.rostocker.de).
But before reaching the brewery you should turn right into "Margaretenstraße" from where you can watch the backward side of the building which is decorated with a huge graffiti artwork. Following "Margaretenstraße" you will see the curch "Heilig-Geist-Kirche" which was built in 1905 in a neogothic style and is really cute. A huge part of the community consists of students and young people and also many concerts and other cultural events take place there. I recommend to walk around the church once and go down "Kirchenstraße" before turning right into "Ottostraße".
On the crossing with the next street, "Barnstorfer Weg" you can see the "Café Lom" which is a real discovery for everyone who is hungry between 11 am and 3 pm and likes indish tandoori cooking. In a great atmosphere you can choose one of six tasty dishes which are really huge and provided with additional bread. Afterwards you'll be fed up having paid just 4 Euros.
Leaving "Ottostraße" you should turn left into "Barnstorfer Weg" and you'll come to "Doberaner Platz" which is a huge square with tiny little "telephones" (tubes running across the square permitting to talk, just try it). There are also many cabarets and music bars.
>From there go down "Gertrudenplatz" and then turn left into "Lange Straße". Then you'll already see the "Kröpeliner Tor", an old gate of the city wall and one of the symbols of Rostock which was built in 1270 in a Gothic style. If you have a closer look you can see that the colour of the lower bricks differs from the upper part indicating that the gate was expanded in 1400. Also the traces of the connection with the wall are still visible. For 1 Euro you can climb up the stairs inside the building and get a nice view over Rostock. Quite often there are also exhibitions within the gate which are included in the entry.
Now you have to choose: If you like shopping you should go down "Kröpeliner Straße" ending at the new market place. But I would prefer entering the park starting at "Kröpeliner Tor" and walking along the old city wall. When you reach "Schwaansche Straße" turn left and then right again into "Altbettelmönchstraße" where you can find the monastery "Michaeliskloster" which was constructed in 1480. After being destroyed in World War II it was rebuilt and houses a protestant community center and a library today. At the end of "Altbettelmönchstraße" turn right into "Rungestraße" before reaching Wallstraße and the roses garden. Just turn left and walk trough the garden. Then you'll arrive at the "Steintor", another old gate of the walls surrounding Rostock which was built in 1279 destroyed and reconstructed several times until it got its renaissance look of today.
Just go straight ahead into "Ernst-Barlach-Straße" and then turn left into "Beim Kuhtor" where you can find the next gate "Kuhtor" which is the oldest one in northern Germany as it was built in 1262. It was really important until it was replaced by the "Steintor". Afterwards it was used as a prison and flat. Now it's the seat of the "Literature House Rostock" and many cultural events take place there.
Now keep left and go down "Beginenberg" for some metres before turning right into "Große Wasserstraße". Follow this branched street (Attention, it's not running straightly) and you'll see the "Kerkhoffhaus" which is considered the best preserved Brick Gothic house in Rostock. Directly afterwards you'll arrive at the new market place. There you can see the town hall with its baroque facade covering an older Gothic brick wall and the paintings under the collonades. At the market place you can also find the city museum and six original, beautifully restored, gable houses from the 15th and 16th centuries.
>From there go down "Kröpeliner Straße" until you arrive at a huge fountain, the "Brunnen der Lebensfreude". The cute building behind is the university of Rostock. If you are interested you can walk down the street "Klosterhof" which is on the left side of the university building and you'll arrive at the monastery "Kloster zum Heiligen Kreuz" which consists of several buildings with a beautiful cloister and houses a museum.
>From the university go back again "Kröpeliner Straße" and take the last street on the left side before reaching the market place which will lead you to the basilica "Marienkirche" which is the most impressing church in Rostock. It is a typical building of the brick gothic period and has a really pompous inner room.
From there go towards the market place and then keep left until you turn right into "Vogelsang". Now turn right into "Kleine Wasserstraße" and then left into "Fischbank". Follow this street until you reach the end and then turn right into "Wollenweberstraße". Now turn left again into "Brauergasse" and then right into "Altschmiedestraße". This part of the walk leads you through a residential area with cute little Hanseatic houses which are typical for the architecture of Rostock and other Hanse cities.
Going down "Altschmiedestraße" you'll arrive at the church "Nikolaikirche" which was built in 1230. Today it has no religious importance but works as a cultural centre and houses several flats under the roof. You should walk around the building turning left into "Bei der Nikolaikirche" from "Altschmiedestraße" and then turning left again into "Lohgerberstraße".
Following this street you'll reach the old market place and the church "Petrikirche" with the highest tower of all the churches in Rostock which has become a symbol of the city that can be seen from far away. You can climb up the stairs to the observation platform with a height of 45 metres giving a beautiful view over Rostock. With good weather you can even see Warnemünde and the Baltic Sea from there.
Now go down "Alter Markt" and turn left into "Am Berg" which will lead you to the Franciscan monastery "St. Katharinen" which was founded in 1243 an is now used as the seat of the "Academy of Music and Theatre Rostock". Go down "Am Berg" and then turn right into "Grubenstraße". Cross the main road "Am Strande" and make your way to the water.
Now your walk is almost finished. Just go along the water, relax and enjoy the beautiful view over the port or over the city. You'll pass many sailing boats and old warehouses and have the perfect opportunity to let the impressions of the day pass by in your mind before you arrive at the starting point again.
I hope you've enjoyed it!
PS: If you are in Rostock you mustn't miss Warnemünde. It's reachable by train in about 20 minutes and really beautiful. Go down "Alter Strom" along the port and towards the beach and walk up to the end of the western pier. It's wonderful!
"Kröpeliner Tor"
"Steintor"
Town Hall
Church "St. Marien"
Warehouses at the port
