The 13 hour trek begins
ALWAYS A BUS STORY
The ride from Calafate to Chalten is a short one...just 4 hours. But, it is 4 hours on a dirt road. Add to that having a crazy dude who plays a flute on the bus and it is even longer. Then come across a broken down pick up truck and a good samaritan bus driver. Towing a truck behind a bus will always add a little time. A perk of this ride was that we were given a piece of candy as the meal. We also got to watch a movie about ice hikers in Chalten. Several of the same people on our earlier tour to Perito Moreno Glacier were on this bus ( including Cheryl and Faye from England), so it was somewhat of a reunion.
WELCOME COMMITTEE
We were surprised that we had not seen the Dutch Boys in Calafate.
Hour 1
But, we were even more surprised when they were there to greet us when we got off the bus in Chalten at the Rancho Grande hostel. This hostel is across the street from the one we are staying at called Trivi something or other. Our hostel is a dump, so Rancho Grande is the hang out. We decided to do some carbo loading before our big day coming up. Quillmes Bock made for a nice dinner with Dutch Boys and English Girls.
Our hostel does not have breakfast, nor lockers. Dutch Boys have a room out back that shakes and you can feel the wind coming through it. Luckily our room is inside next to the lobby and has a portable heater. The front desk closes down at midnight, but they leave the kitchen door open if you come home late...which we did.
El Chalten is a surreal place.
Drill sargent's 5 minute break
I was expecting something much bigger as it is a major Patagonian destination for travellers. It is a dirt road town with colorful wood buildings. Huge llamas are kept across the street in a corral. The wind sweeps through here at high speed and makes a terrific sound. We are surrounded by beautiful rocky mountains with snow on top. When you look down the desolate dirt road, you may see a few backpackers walking sideways as the wind tries to push them over. It feels like an old movie set.
ICE TREKING
I am feeling pretty tough today. We met our party of twelve at 6:45am for an ice trek that lasted until 8:15pm. It cost 220 pesos for this torture. It started with Drill Sargent Carla leading us for a 2 hour hike to the base camp for Cerro Torre.
Base Camp (The Italians, The Swiss', Steph, and The German)
This chick would not let us stop for anything including tying our shoes, taking a sip of water, taking in the view, taking a picture, or finding a bush to water. There was one scheduled 10 minute break an hour in and that was all that was allowed. I must admit that these first 2 hours were pretty easy. Most of the trail was pretty flat with only a few up and downs. It would be nice if they offered a ride to base camp so you could cut out 4 hours (round trip) from your day. Don't get me wrong, it was a nice trail but a long day and much more exciting on the ice.
At base camp the drill sargeant was replaced with 2 very cool ice dudes to lead us the rest of the way. They did allow us to use the potty tents, have some cookies, and juice for 30 minutes before starting back up. We hiked for about 30 minutes before we hit the river.
approaching glacier
There was a nice view of Fitzroy and Torre from here. To cross the river we had to pull ourselves across some ropes while hanging upside down. Fun! I was a little weighted down as I was carrying our water, lunch, and a change of clothes in my pack. Our nice guides, Luke and Matt (they really have fancier names like Luciano and Mattias or something like that) were cool and helped drag me across when I slowed down.
It was another 1.5 hours of rocky ups and downs before we hit the glacier. Throughout the whole trek we were constantly changing our wardrobe. It drizzled on us a little although the skies were sunny, so a water resistant jacket is important. Wind resistant clothing is also very much needed here. We went from looking like bank robbers all masked up to beachgoers with short sleeves.
crossing the river
One Dutch couple actually hiked this whole thing in converse tennies and jeans.
When we reached the ice, we put our campons on our feet. This was my first experience with this. I was surprised how well these spikes on our feet stuck in the ice and kept us stable. We were told to walk like flat footed ducks and it worked well. They took us to see some amazing sites on the glacier. We would come across some deep crevases and holes filled with blue water. It baffles me how we were able to walk in areas like this without falling through the ice in a big splash.
After about an hour inspecting the amazing glacier, we stopped to eat our lunches and climb an ice wall. We were roughing it. Had to sit on the ice to eat. The lunch Steph and I brought was baggettes and peanut butter.
ouch! get me out of this thing
The poor Dutch couple didn't know to bring food and we couldn`t let them go without after already 6.5 hours of exertion, so everyone started throw food at them. I think they ended up with the best lunch of all.
This ice wall looked more like a 50 foot ice wave to me. Everyone took turns with the ice picks climbing up and then being roped on down. Some did very well and made it all the way to the top pretty quickly. As for me, I was knackered. It was already apparent that I was the slacker in the group, so when it was my turn I climbed up about 5 feet, smiled for the camera, and said I was coming down. No cheering me on was going to help change my mind. I was just there for the photo opportunity. All I could think about was that it was windy, cold, 3:30pm already and we had to go back the same exhausting route.
Give me your money belt!
We did make it back 13 hours after we started. As we were coming down I felt pretty proud of what we accomplished today. This was definitely the longest amount of time I have spent out in the elements exercising. I thought about what my parents were doing while I was out there. They were at the Catalina Marathon back at home exerting themselves too. I may not have put in 26 miles today, but I'm pretty sure that I put in enough hours to complete 2 marathons.
The rest of the crazies in our group are planning to do Fitzroy tomorrow. This is supposed to be a very tough climb. I am scheduled for a massage!
MASSAJE DE ARGENTINA PART DOS
My apologies to the massage therapists of Argentina.
Dancing on ice
I stand corrected. Just had about the best massage ever here in El Chalten. I wasn't very hopeful based on the one I got in Bariloche as well as the fact that this cute little town is about 4 blocks long and all dirt roads in the middle of the mountains. This one cost 80 pesos and was worth that in British pounds.
I had asked the mulleted and pierced front desk clerk slash bartender slash waiter at the hostel if there was a massuese in this town. He said that he was one and could do it at his home. Ya, ya, ha , ha, ha... "No, seriously. Is there a professional in town?" In unison he and the other multi talented hostel worker said with serious faces "He/I am a professional." I nervously say "Oh really" and try to figure out a way to squirm away.
Its downhill from here!
Lucky for me he said he had to work at the hostel and picked up the phone to call Blanca at El Mundo de Sofi a few blocks down the road. Thank goodness she was available.
Blanca was not what I had expected when I walked into the cosmic El Mundo de Sofi. She is a husky elderly Argentine woman. She has a nice little set up in the back of the store where I think she also does astrological readings. The place looked and smelled like a cute little hippie spa. If you can get passed her rolls of flesh slapping against your side while she gives it her all to give you a good mssage, I would recommend an appointment with her after hiking Cerro or Fitzroy. I feel great. Plan to do a little yoga this afternoon before, yes...getting on another bus.
We go back to Calafate tonight and plan to meet the Dutch Boys for possibly our last evening in the same location.
surfing the ice wall
It is always possibly as everyone's plans tend to change on a daily basis while on the road down here.
