Buzios

PASSING THROUGH RIO

It took alot to get me to my final location.  I feel as though I have been travelling forever.  Fours days on a boat, four hours on a plane (3 seats to lay across!), and four hours on a bus...and now I am at the beach on a nice drizzly day!  I landed in Rio de Janiero at 2AM and waited it out in the airport until 4:30AM when I thought it was safe to go out onto their dark streets.  Truthfully, I had done the research and knew that the first bus out of Rio to Buzios was at 6:30AM.  Tickets would start selling at 5AM. And, the airport was much more cozy to hang out in than the bus station. 

So, what did I do in the middle of the night at the airport?  The money exchange was closed so I went hunting for an ATM.

  They seem to have about 15 different types here.  It was ATM number 5 that spit out Reais for me.  Then it was off to a deserted restroom.  The attempt to fix my hat hair in the sink didn´t work. Hey!  I´ve got time to kill.  Why don´t I shave my legs here in the sink?  I know!  It´s life on the road!  Then I decided to lighten my backpack for the last few days.  I dumped all of my cold weather gear into an airport locker for safe keeping until I pass through here again.  In order to do this, I had to knock on an office door to wake up the guy with the special second key to ensure my long underwear was safe. 

Unfortunatley, the buses, internet, shops and everything else except a few food vendors don´t open until 6AM at the airport.

  So, that was about it until I jumped in a taxi to the bus station 30 minutes away.  Here I sat for 1.5 hours in the musty smokey waiting area.  Great! 

It was a beautiful drive to Buzios.  The grafiti of Rio is gone and you can see beautiful green hills and little villages.  I think I am going to like my last few days here.

FIRST DAY OF MY LAST DAYS

Buzios.  Cool name.  Cool place.  I am staying at Adventure Hostel which does not appear to live up to its name.  We are near Tartaruga Beach.  It is very quiet and about 20 minutes walking distance from the tourist area and 10 from that nearest beach.  This might be good.    There are about 6 different beaches within 30 minutes walking distance which will be good for variety and getting my excercising started again.

  My roommate and the boys next door were jumping in their rented dunebuggy when I checked in.  There are lots of them around here.  I was provided with a map and detailed directions to everything important when I checked in.  I rested a little before taking a  stroll.  It became very touristy as I walked further.  Lots of shopping.  Lots of nightclubs.  Lots of restaurants.  But, it also has a small town local feel to it.  I look forward to exploring and chilling over the next few days.  It is known as a party town too, but I might just be able to avoid it 20 minutes down the road I´m sure to the disappointment of some.

When I was leaving Chile, I began to realize that I didn´t realize when I was talking or listening in Spanish versus English.

  I was even thinking in Spanish sometimes.  Wake up call when back in Brasil.  I have a hard time with Portuguese.  I keep saying Gracias when I should be saying Obrigada.  I should say Mach instead of Matte the way it is spelled.  Oops.  Makes me note that I should make a bigger effort to help those back at home who struggle because they don´t know the language.  I think sometimes we brush them off back at home as if they should learn the language before visiting.  It can be very difficult and lonely if you stuggle with communicating with people especially when you are in unfamiliar areas.

While on that subject.  I have also noted how caring and concerned people are for travellers.  They want to ensure that you make it where you need to.

  They will inconvenience themselves to do it.  They will stay open later for you.  They will let you check into your room at 7am and eat the free breakfast even if you don´t deserve it until the next day.  They will let you store your bags and loiter in their lobby if you have nowhere to go until 1AM.  They will drive you home in their own car if they can´t find you a taxi.  We need to be better at that at home also.  Take the time to notice that someone may appear to be lost or in a somewhat desparate, uncomfortable or confusing situation and jump in to make it easier for them.  Let´s get those customs and passport control guys some service training too!  Then maybe people would like us Americans more!  Are ya with me?

STROLLING BUZIOS

I came upon an outdoor crepe place and had to stop.

  These guys were making the best smelling crepes on this outdoor grill.  There  were dozens of options, but I went for the chocolate banana with ice cream on top.  A nice treat.

After giving some advice to the boys next door who were heading to Patagonia, my roommate Alex from Austin and I jumped on a collectivo to go to Geriba Beach.  This she said was the quietest of the ones they cruised in the buggy yesterday.  I had heard that this is the one where famous people hang out.  Didn´t see anyone we recognized.  Just lots of other people like us wearing bathings suits that showed too much of our white bums.  The temperature was perfect.  The breeze was gentle.  The sand was fine.

  The water was calm, but a little on the chilly side.  The vendors were easy to say no to.  There was one I was very excited to see.  Just as I was telling Alex about the amazing grilled cheese on a stick that you can get on Ipanema, up walked a guy with them. Yes!  The irony is that the shirt that this heart attack on a stick salesman was wearing said something like Geriba Ambulatorio.  Good thing.  I may need one.

I have become victim again to the eye swelling Brazillian spider.  I woke up with 3 big bites on my arm and 4 on my face.  More on my legs the next night.  My eye lid is swollen up as I must be allegic to this spider.  I had the same thing happen when I was in Rio last month.

  I tried to use it as an excuse to check out of the hostel early, but the lady wouldn´t give me a refund.  She promised to spray the room.  I was really hoping to move somewhere closer to the city center, that had working internet, that didn´t have a curfew, that had more people staying in it, that didn´t require you to pound on the door to let you in, unlock the door for you to leave, and pay for juice at breakfast.  I have been lucky to have been staying at some pretty good hostels and am a little spoiled.  It isn´t that bad; just a little annoying.

Strolling the opposite side of the centro area, you walk by Praia (beach) do Canto on a nice boardwalk.  I stopped for my favorite ice drink Acai and am again reminded of my time just 7 weeks ago in Rio.

  Continue on and you hit Praia da Armacao where they have lots of funny statues.  I walked by Bridget Bardot sitting on a suitcase.  They even have 3 fisherman scultures out in the water.  I wasn´t sure if it was trespassing, but I walked through a gate at the end of that beach which took me by Sant´Anna  Catholic church ( old as 1740) and then down onto Praia dos Ossos (whale bones.)   A very cute isolated beach.  Then even further beyond that I walked down a path that now I was sure I wasn´t supposed to as 2 angry looking guard dogs came chasing after me.  I was definitely scard.  Wasn´t sure what to do.  So, I decided to stop.  Talk in a calm voice to them as they continued to run.  Didn´t work.   So then I just froze like I heard you were to do if you came across a bear.  Whew!  It worked.  Then I backed away.  I wanted to take a photo of them so someone could tell what breeds they were.  But, decided that ´might make them mad again.  So, they were pitbulls and I am sticking to that.  Next stop was down the hill to Azeda and Azedinha beaches.  The names come from the word sour to describe all the tamarind fruit trees there.  Even smaller cuter more secluded beaches.  So, I hit 6 beaches in one day.  There are at least 2 more that I would like to hit tomorrow.  Stay tuned for my pick of the best beach in Buzios.

GOT WHEELS!

Decided to get a dunebuggy to visit some of the other recommended beaches.

  They gave me a choice of yellow or pink.  Pink was a little too much for me.  About 5 minutes into it, I was regretting not getting the insurance.  I am not a good stick shift driver especially on these bumpy and hilly roads.   I stalled a few times in traffic.  Got scard that I would hit a car or go over an edge a few times too.  Got lost a few times too.  It was great fun.  The other perks that go with this buggy are that I rented it at the place that is right next to the bus station, so I will not have to walk 15 minutes down the road with my backpack to jump on the bus in the morning.  I can just throw it in my buggy.  The other perk is that I can stay out a little later in the center of town as I will not have to walk the long road in the dark.  Last night I resorted to having a bag of chocolate chip cookies for dinner as that was the only edible thing I could find within a block of my hostel in the dark. 

My first stop in the buggy was a lookout point type of place overlooking Brava beach.  Oooo ahhh.  I was actually lost when I came upon this spot.  The good thing is that I was able to spot my original destination... |Joao Fernandes and Fernandinho beaches.  Very crowded with Euros.  Walked it from end to end and decided I did not want to lay my towel on top of any of them.  The sand was a reddish color.

Next stop...Praia da Ferradura (horseshoe.)  Got there and some dude approached me out of no where trying to get me to pay 5 pesos for him to watch my buggy while parked on the street.  ¨No comprendo¨ comes in handy in these situations.  ¨Se habla ingles?¨  Thank goodness he didn´t.  This meant I could plead ignorance and walk to the beach.  As I walked to the beach, out of nowhere popped another guy.  He didn´t say anything.  He just looked back at this friend the fake parking dude.  So, I glanced at the beach and hightailed it back to the buggy before it turned up missing. 

Back to my hood I went to Praia da Tartaruga.  You have to take dirt roads to this one.  Woo hoo!  At the end of the road was a dude waving me to pull over and park as if the road was closed.  Fine.  I told him I would be just a minute so he wouldn´t charge me.  Definitely better than the other beaches seen today, but not as good as the orignial from yesterday...Geriba. 

So, Geriba is the big winner.  I spent 3 hours enjoying the view there.  You can see the photos.  Paddleball is my new favorite sport.  The  volleyball was interesting also as they use their feet and heads because they have cigarettes in their hands. 

WILD LAST NIGHT IN BUZIOS

Figured that might get your attention.  Truth is...it was pretty tame.  I cruised in the buggy trying to chase the sunset looking for the best angle.  I went up hill after hill and a few times got a little scared as it started to stall on the way up.  Shift Shift!  Grind.  Ooops! Please don´t roll backwards down the hill!  I retreated back to city center having failed in my attempt to find the perfect last sunset.   

I decided to say good bye to Brasil with a caprihina at Captain´s Bar.  The place is outdoors on the main road Rua das Pedras (Stone Street.)    It looks like a ship and has techno jazz music playing.  I am sure that I looked very hip sitting there sipping my drink while playing on my blackberry trying to figure out all this Facebook stuff you other travellers have gotten me into.  Poke.  Poke. 

While saying good bye to Brasil with their special drink, I thought I should say hello to home with a special food... a California Roll.  I waited for an hour for that California Roll and it never showed up.   What does this mean?  Should I not be going home?  Should I stay in South America? Smarty had to ask if the chef was on his way to California to get it for me.  That is when I found out they were all out.  They probably told me that an hour before, but in Portuguese.  I probably responded with a head nod and a smile as everyone does when they don´t understand another language.  They charged 1 peso as a service charge since I did not eat there.  I tried! 

Bound and determined to get that California Roll, I found a little place upstairs called JapaBuzios.  The owner/waiter/cashier/sushi chef, Bruno, ushered me in seeming very pleased to have a customer and practice his English.  He alerted me that the Brazilian version of California Roll has mango instead of avocado.  It was okay, but avocado is better.   

Soon 2 guys came up the stairs to join the party... me and Bruno.  One had a shirt that said ¨Cali¨on it.  They asked all kinds of questions of Bruno showing that they are true sushi afficionados.  So, I asked the question I already knew the answer to.  They were from San Francisco.  Perfect!  Having a California Roll with 2 Californians.  I am meant to go home. 

We chatted quite a bit about various things including which are the best beaches in Buzios.  They were aware of a few that I missed, believe it or not.  For example, Olho de Boi is the nude beach.  There is also another one called Amores Beach that you have to hike to from Canto Beach.  The nude beach.  The lovers beach.  Sorry I missed them.

Me and my buggy were home to my pet spiders by 11PM.

LEAVING BUZIOS

The day didn´t start off too great.  The hostel lady told me that she had to run off to the bakery and would be back in 5 minutes to make my breakfast.  I needed to leave in 20 minutes to return the buggy and get on the 9AM bus to Rio.  I waited 20 minutes and wondered how I was going to get out of there because they lock you in and have  to let you out.  I found the keys behind the counter and let myself out just as she and her boyfriend were pulling back up with the bread.  They tossed me  a few rolls and I was off.

Got to the buggy place and no one was there.  However, I did find the keys sticking in the door lock.  My luck with finding keys this morning!  So, I let myself in and left the keys and registation on the desk.  Some man followed me in.  Not sure if he worked there or not.  So, I pointed to the keys and waved.  Hope he works there.  I had no time to wait around though.

At the bus office, I ran into the same problem I did when I rented the buggy.  My Visa card would not work.  My cash supplies were dwindling.  I hand him my ATM Debit card.  That didn´t work either.  Uh oh!  I will have to give him my last reais and hope that I can get cash at the bus station or I will have to walk to the airport.  Luckily my ATM worked there, and I was able to pay for a taxi.

On the ride back to Rio I lucked out and sat next to the only other person who spoke English.  He grew up in Rio, but is now starting a boat cruise business in Buzios.  Roberto has been a traveller for many years and had all kinds of stories.  He has decided to settle down in one place now as he is finding it harder to keep up with those twenty-somethings on the road.  You´re telling me!  Plus he realized that he was so busy travelling that he forgot that he was supposed to get married and have kids by now.  You´re not telling me!  Anyways, he had all kinds of good stories about how he made money along the way to continue his travels.  Also good hang gliding, scuba, rafting stories too.