final day in Lviv, another folk-architecture museum and a necropolis -night train to Kyiv.

Lviv Travel Blog

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SHEVCHENKSKYIA HAI PARK AND FOLK-ARCHITECTURE MUSEUM

after yesterday's long drive to Pochayiv Lavra, and because we needed to prepare for our trip back to Kyiv on the overnight train, we spent most of our day close to the George Hotel. In the morning our guide took us to the Museum of Folk Architecture and Life in Shevchenkskyi Hai park on the outskirts of town. The museum was very similar to the one we had seen in Kyiv a few days earlier. Ancient wooden buildings and structures had been dismantled and moved from other sites in Western Ukraine and rebuilt here in Lviv, the main population centre. The exhibits included a wooden church with 3 large domes almost 2 centuries old and several houses with painted lintels and window and door frames. We were told that Volhnyans use blue and yellow colours in their embroidery and painting and that Galicians use red and black.
We saw examples of both colour groupings on house paintings and peasant blouses in that area.

PAGAN SYMBOLS AND WOOD TECHNOLOGY


In spite of the fact that St. Wolodimyr had converted all Ukrainians to Christianity early in the tenth century, many seemed to retain their pagan traditions down to modern times and, as evidence, it was pointed out to us that houses and even the churches had carvings of the sun flowers and horseshoes as was the pagan custorm for centuries before the christian era.

Our guide also pointed out some technological differences between wood and stone structures. Some of these related to the need for supporting arches by carving out wooden componets which distributed weight in a way very similar to byzantine arches. The need to distribute weight in this way resulted in some complex carving because at that time nails were not yet in common use.

LYCHAKIVSKY NECROPOLIS

After our visit to the folk architecture museum, our guide left us at a restaurant and proceeded on to another appointment in the afternoon.
  We went back to our hotel after lunch, checked out of our room and stored our bags behind the front desk. We then asked the staff if there was some place close by that we could visit before we left. "Lychakivsky necropolis," they said. We went up to the cemetery in a taxi-cab and asked the driver to wait for us while we swept through the place with our cameras clicking. It was only open for about an hour after our arrival and the October daylight was quickly fading. It was clear to us after a few minutes that the necropolis was a site not to be missed. It was similar to pere lachaise in Paris and Cristobol Colon in Havana. The necropolis is a rich collection of funerary sculpture from religious to allegorical to portraiture. It is definitely helpful to purchase a map at the cemetery office just inside the front gate. There is a memorial to Ivan Franko, a writer and nationalist leader and to several revolutionary fighters who are interred here along with teachers, musicians, military, athletes and clergy.
one last, long lingering look behind
  I'm always inspired to quote Thomas Gray's Elegy in a Country Churchyard in a place like this

 For who to dumb Forgetfulness a prey,
This pleasing anxious being e'er resign'd,
Left thee warm precincts of the cheerful dayd
Nor cast one longing, ling'ring look behind?


***************************************************************

or  Housman's  To  an  Athlete Dying Young

T
HE time you won your town the race
We chaired you through the market-place
Man and boy stood cheering by,
And home we brought you shoulder-high.
To-day, the road all runners come,


To-day, the road all runners come,
Shoulder-high we bring you home
,And set you at your threshold down,
Townsman of a stiller town.

Smart lad, to slip betimes away
From fields where glory does not stay,
And early though the laurel grows
It withers quicker than the rose.

Our taxi driver returned us to the George. We had dinner, then wandered in the square people-watching until our tour driver came to take us to the overnight train back to kyiv. The square was full of excitement: jazz musicians were playing, weddings were being performed, horse carriages -encouraged by enthusiastic passengers were raciing around the square and a cossack bandura player in traditional dress performed for our cameras.

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one last, long lingering look behi…
one last, long lingering look beh…
To-day, the road all runners come,
To-day, the road all runners come,
arch complex sho
arch complex sho
tomb
tomb
in certain hope of the resurection
in certain hope of the resurection
sorrow
sorrow
greif
greif
loss
loss
grief
grief
Lviv
photo by: Biedjee