final day in Lviv, another folk-architecture museum and a necropolis -night train to Kyiv.
Lviv Travel Blog› entry 8 of 29 › view all entries
October 6th, 2007 – by: oriel
SHEVCHENKSKYIA HAI PARK AND FOLK-ARCHITECTURE MUSEUMafter yesterday's long drive to Pochayiv Lavra, and because we needed to prepare for our trip back to Kyiv on the overnight train, we spent most of our day close to the George Hotel. In the morning our guide took us to the Museum of Folk Architecture and Life in Shevchenkskyi Hai park on the outskirts of town. The museum was very similar to the one we had seen in Kyiv a few days earlier. Ancient wooden buildings and structures had been dismantled and moved from other sites in Western Ukraine and rebuilt here in Lviv, the main population centre. The exhibits included a wooden church with 3 large domes almost 2 centuries old and several houses with painted lintels and window and door frames. We were told that Volhnyans use blue and yellow colours in their embroidery and painting and that Galicians use red and black.
PAGAN SYMBOLS AND WOOD TECHNOLOGY
In spite of the fact that St. Wolodimyr had converted all Ukrainians to Christianity early in the tenth century, many seemed to retain their pagan traditions down to modern times and, as evidence, it was pointed out to us that houses and even the churches had carvings of the sun flowers and horseshoes as was the pagan custorm for centuries before the christian era.
Our guide also pointed out some technological differences between wood and stone structures. Some of these related to the need for supporting arches by carving out wooden componets which distributed weight in a way very similar to byzantine arches. The need to distribute weight in this way resulted in some complex carving because at that time nails were not yet in common use.
After our visit to the folk architecture museum, our guide left us at a restaurant and proceeded on to another appointment in the afternoon.
For who to dumb Forgetfulness a prey,
This pleasing anxious being e'er resign'd,
Left thee warm precincts of the cheerful dayd
Nor cast one longing, ling'ring look behind?
or Housman's To an Athlete Dying Young
THE time you won your town the race
We chaired you through the market-place
Man and boy stood cheering by,
And home we brought you shoulder-high.
To-day, the road all runners come,
Shoulder-high we bring you home
,And set you at your threshold down,
Townsman of a stiller town.
Smart lad, to slip betimes away
From fields where glory does not stay,
And early though the laurel grows
It withers quicker than the rose.
Our taxi driver returned us to the George. We had dinner, then wandered in the square people-watching until our tour driver came to take us to the overnight train back to kyiv. The square was full of excitement: jazz musicians were playing, weddings were being performed, horse carriages -encouraged by enthusiastic passengers were raciing around the square and a cossack bandura player in traditional dress performed for our cameras.
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