An Education in Duhok

Eventually, I am asked about possibilities for studying abroad and I explain a little about what would be involved for foreign students to attend a Canadian university.  It soon becomes apparent that despite the pride they feel for their region and culture, these university students still believe a successful future lays outside the country in Europe, or possibly North America.

They are all young men in their early 20’s but they also have incredible stories to tell about their experiences under the Saddam Hussein regime.  Sarbast, the obvious leader of the dormitory group and best English speaker (from working as a translator for the American army), recounts his memories of a refuge camp in Turkey.  “I remember going outside our tent and a Turkish soldier was there with his gun and he told me to go back inside.”  To hear that as very young children they had to walk long distances as they fled with their families to Turkey or Iran is very hard to imagine.  However, it also explains their general attitude of disdain towards Saddam and “the Arabs”.  This is especially evident when our conversation turns to a discussion of the tragic and horrendous use of chemical weapons that Saddam fired on the population of the Kurdish town of Halabja in 1988. 

At one point Sarbast unexpectedly asks “How old would you say I am?”  I am a little taken aback by this question, not really certain why he was asking.  After hearing my measured response, he points out that he and his classmates all appear older which is due to the stress they have experienced in their lives.  As I look more closely at their swarthy faces with dark shadows indicative of heavy beard growth, I realize that they do appear easily 10 years older than their age.  Whether their premature aging is a result of stress or some other factors is difficult to say.  However, I do know that their life experiences have definitely been much harder than anything I have been through.

The students are also very interested to know my thoughts about their university courses as they express concerns about how they are being taught.  Sarbast, in particular, asks “Is this what teachers in Canada have to know and how they are taught?” as he shows me his poetry, grammar and drama texts and explains what goes on in his classes.  I have to admit, the readings and the pedagogical techniques seem different from what students would get in a Canadian teacher education program but I remind him that, as he had told me, the teaching program at Duhuk University is still very new.

Ultimately, I am invited to join these students to visit their university and even sit in on their classes.  I jump at this chance and am most eager to experience life on a university campus in Iraq.  This turns out o be a real educational experience for me indeed.

The first thing that strikes me as I watch Sarbast’s classmates enter a very bare concrete classroom is the way the female and male students automatically segregate themselves.  This surprises me somewhat given that many of the women wear makeup and are dressed in stylish clothing complete with black, lace-like leggings and provocative high heel boots.  Of course, the majority do also wear headscarves.  Nevertheless, I had expected that things might have been a bit more progressive in a university setting, but such was not the case.  In fact, even within the cafeteria, interaction between the female and male students is quite limited.  When I mention this to Sarbast, he smiles and says “But with you here, we now have a good excuse to talk with the women.”

This comment underlies an observation I had made since arriving in Kurdistan Iraq.  Even on the streets of the city, it is not common to see many women and with the segregation that one sees at universities, this led me to ask the question, “How do men and women ever meet to develop relationships?”  Sabast admits it is not easy and proceeds to describe a process that reminds me of high school.  Other than the case where parents make arrangements, it seems that an intermediary (usually a friend of the boy) makes the initial contact with the girl and presents his “client” in the best possible manner.  Then, if the girl is interested, she passes on her cell number and initial contact is made.  From there, the relationship develops through many phone calls, arranged public encounters and eventually into more private rendezvous.  Despite the seeming complexity to this process, it does seem to work.

Fortunately, between classes, I am actually able to chat with some of the female students as I am especially interested about their thoughts of a possible changing role for woman in Kurdish society.  This question is stimulated by the fact that in their drama class, the students are studying a play with feminist undertones.  However, perhaps not surprisingly, these young female students seem quite content and not particularly looking for a change in their social status.  Of course, this may well reflect the fact that things have already progressed for them and they are quite happy with the pace at which this reform is occurring.  This is the same feeling Sarbast voices when he says “Change will occur in Kurdistan ……. slowly and over time.” 

And after having spent a few days with this dynamic, dedicated and inspiring group of potential teachers, I cannot help but think that positive changes are happening and there is a reason to feel some optimism about the future of Kurdistan Iraq.