Torres del Paine - Day 5: Exploring some of the Drive-In Areas of TdP
By the time morning finally arrived, the rain had finally stopped although the wind continued to blow and gust throughout the day. Not as hard as the night before, but still more blustery than we had experienced to date other than perhaps on our boat journey on Lago Grey. And Las Torres were also obscured from view from the low-hanging clouds that covered the valleys. It was a slow morning as we grabbed breakfast and headed out to the waiting van to take us on a drive around several other regions of the park separate from the "W" trek that we had wrapped up yesterday.
My foot was bothering me today as on the final descent of the Ascensio gorge I had a blister form on the little toe of my right foot. So I was glad we weren't going to be walking a whole bunch this particular day.
Our first stop was a viewpoint not far from the Guarderia overlooking the Rio Paine and Lago Nordenskjold. This was another spot that we were told that condors often put in appearances. Alas, I was to be disappointed once again as none decided to grace us with their presence. But there were other sights as wildflowers were abundant in this area of the park in the southern hemisphere spring.
Our second and third destinations were a combined excursion. We travelled on the same road that we had used on our entrance to the park on Tuesday morning (the 20th). Instead of continuing around Lago Pehoe, we stopped at the parking lot for the catamaran to Refugio Paine Grande. But we weren't taking the catamaran shuttle either. We grabbed our lunches and took off on a short walk to a mirador overlooking Lago Nordenskjold right in front of Los Cuernos. The hike was mostly flat but my feet (or really my right little toe) was screaming. Even encased in moleskin there was no way to keep that toe from rubbing.
Heading back we had lunch on a sheltered beach trying to get out of the wind somewhat for a while (easier said then done). A short walk on a side trail on the return to the van brought us to Salto Grande Rio Paine.
Back in the vans we were headed back to the east. We had our final close-up views of Paine Grande and Los Cuernos for the trip as we departed the area. Driving back to the east we went back through "Guanaco Central" where the animals were present all over the place. Going around one corner we very nearly ran right into one just standing out in the middle of the road. Our final sight-seeing stop was another "waterfall" on the Rio Paine. The Cascada Rio Paine was a smaller but wider cascade waterfall as opposed to Salto Grande but another interesting sight nonetheless.
And with that we followed the Rio Paine back to the one lane bridge into the park central and back to EcoCamp, our last afternoon in Torres del Paine complete. Back at the camp we had a huge feast prepared for our final dinner. Lots of wine and pisco sours were consumed and everyone enjoyed the final evening of companionship before we would go our separate ways in the morning. Gradually people headed back to their tents. I had an early morning call to head to Cerro Castillo (the Chile/Argentina border crossing) and pick up the bus going from Puerto Natales, CL to El Calafate, AR. But knowing I had nothing much planned for the morning and a long bus ride where I could get some sleep, I was among the last stragglers to head to my tent after finally saying good-byes to those that I would not see in the morning.
It was on to Phase Two of the journey.
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Helpful transportation from Punta Arenas
W-Trek options with refugio lodging
End of trip stay at EcoCamp which seemed an interesting premise
Meals included throughout (at refugios or EcoCamp)
They hit the mark on all these and more in my opinion. The guides for the trek were amazing and took us to several hidden viewpoints that I would not have found hiking on my own. The groups I got to know were small (we were 9 plus guides, two other groups in the camp while I was there had 11 and 6) which was a plus for me in looking for things to do. Not that a trek through the park would have supported a 50 person group but this was not what I was looking for.
The EcoCamp (located in the area around Hosteria Las Torres) was by far more than I could have hoped for. An amazing and comfortable place to stay, that is relatively low impact in its design. And the staff were incredibly attentive during our last two days there.
The EcoCamp experience is by no means cheap in comparison to tent camping on your own and carrying in all your food. But it is cheaper than staying at the larger hotel options (Hosterias) in the park.
While this review discusses Cascada Expediciones trips at Torres del Paine they operate throughout Chile and into Argentina and Bolivia as well. Check out the website mentioned in the header for other options. While I can not vouch for those trips, if they are run in a similar fashion you will see whatever area you are visiting in a new light.
