Chillaxin! Caye Caulker, Belize

Caye Caulker Travel Blog

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The Split

Our last day full day in Central America was spent doing nothing -- no buses, no traveling, no searching, no activities, no sites -- nothing but eating, walking around and taking a dip in the ocean. Yes, all this rest made me a little uncomfortable.

It also gave me a chance to take advantage of the glorious array of seafood restaurants around Caye Caulker. Be aware though -- a lot of the food turned out to be pretty dissapointing. Our first meal in town was at the 2nd floor restaurant next to Edith's. I've forgotten the name, but I do remember that the dirt cheap Lobster and Eggs breakfast was a downright offensively bland mash of sad eggs and tiny lobster bits. I had a decently-priced-for-seafood lobster ceviche at the Happy Lobster, which turned out to be cooked, warm bits of lobster and fish dumped over nachos and a salsa.

The split
It wasn't bad per se, but it was definitely not a ceviche in any sense, and it felt like they must have had a bucket of cooked lobster bits in the back that they just made into different dishes. I spent 2 days searching the island for barricuda. When I finally got it at the hotel by the seaside graveyard, I had my doubts as to whether it was actually barricuda. Also, despite the sides being listed as mashed patatos and vegetables, and me verifying that the sides were indeed mashed potatos and vegetables, the dish came out with rice and beans.

On the other hand, there were some gastronomical highlights as well. Firstly, there's a lady that sells barbecue out of her backyard at lunchtime. Her house is between Edith's and the seaside graveyard, on the south side of the island.

Sunset, west side of Caye Caulker
The meal comes with cole slaw and some awesome breadfruit fries -- the breadfruit is from a big tree in her backyard. She also sells hair braiding and my request for barbecue actually interrupted some half balding white dude getting the remnants of his hair done.

Another highlight was the seafood soup at Herbal Tribe, a restaurant with a stupid name, not-too-cheap prices and limited menu, but a seafood soup that is stacked with giant chunks of super fresh fish, lobster and crab.  Atousa and I had a mixed experience t Habanero's, one of the more fine dining places on the island -- My lobster ravioli was perfection and I wanted to order the whole menu, but she hated her soup and said it tasted like overseasoned ramen.

Other than eating, we also walked to the north end of the island to the Split,  narrow channel of water that splits the two ends of Caye Caulker, which used to be one island before Hurricane Hattie.

Sunset, west side of Caye Caulker
The swimming area was pretty crowded but it was nice to take a dip in the warm waters.

Sunset on the island is beautiful, although there isn't much on the west side of the island.

At night, we went to The Sports Bar, a pub that was fun if only because of the group of regulars clustered on the other side of the bar that looked like they were either from Texas or Maine -- as in they either looked like grizzle fishermen or grizzled cowboys.

  

chris-in-sf says:
nice job writin it up! don't know why i couldn't find the blog.
Posted on: Jan 05, 2010
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The Split
The Split
The split
The split
Sunset, west side of Caye Caulker
Sunset, west side of Caye Caulker
Sunset, west side of Caye Caulker
Sunset, west side of Caye Caulker
The split
The split
Sunset, west side of Caye Caulker
Sunset, west side of Caye Caulker
Herbal Tribe
Herbal Tribe
Secret Agent Atousa hides behind t…
Secret Agent Atousa hides behind …
Breadfruit tree and balding man ge…
Breadfruit tree and balding man g…
The split
The split
The split
The split
Sunset, west side of Caye Caulker
Sunset, west side of Caye Caulker
Caye Caulker Restaurants, Cafes & Food review
At first glance, this place looks pretty touristy and lame. First of all, it's called "Herbal Tribe". I mean, why don't you just put up a sign that sa… read entire review
Caye Caulker Restaurants, Cafes & Food review
On the north side of the island, about a block west of the seaside graveyard, there's a lady that sells barbecue out of her backyard. You have to catc… read entire review
Caye Caulker
photo by: vulindlela