Single Track Hell!
Gairloch Travel Blog› entry 4 of 8 › view all entries
Tuesday was our planned visit to the Western shores of
Pressing on, we acquired Gairloch, a pretty fishing village on the Atlantic which reminded me quite a bit of
The trip from Gairloch to Rua Reidh was pure hell. Imagine driving a single lane road down a 45-degree incline (with cliffs on either side) to a 90-degree turn…a definite white knuckle experience! It was up-and-down, back-and-forth the entire way, although there were apparently a lot of sheep, goats and spectacular ocean views (according to Kim & Chip…all I glimpsed was the narrow, constantly changing roadway immediately in front of my eyeballs!). Fortunately Rua Reidh was an apt reward…a visual paradise featuring a rocky coastline with a lighthouse pondering the stark landscape.
We parked and hiked a little way, savoring the natural beauty. The best part was glimpsing a frolicking sea lion in the water, with nothing around but the rocky coast to accompany the vision. Regaining the lighthouse, we were tickled to walk about the grounds, where numerous chickens seemed intent upon scratching out nests in the dirt. We walked inside the lighthouse, which is also a B&B, to have a drink before departing. A radio was playing and for some reason I will never forget that Tracy Chapman was playing…it fit in perfectly.
In addition to our trio, there were two elderly couples enjoying the B&B fare. Another fond memory will always be how the one gentleman peered at the other male companion and inquired “another scone?”…and his counterpart smirked and slightly nodded, “yes, one more” like he was getting away with a tremendous crime.
While we consumed our drinks, I perused the travel guide which had highlighted Rua Reidh and noted a travel tip advising that you park at Melvaig, a teensy village three miles prior to Rua Reidh…and walk the rest of the way because the single track was so traumatic!
Back at Gairloch, we opted to enjoy lunch at the Old Inn and enjoyed some fresh seafood outdoors. Walking down the path to the restaurant entrance, I noticed a trailhead marker that mentioned a hike to “
A spectacular hike, and on the rebound we were rewarded with stellar ocean views. How this trail escaped mention from all our research is perhaps a sin…but more likely a reinforcement of just how glorious our planet is!
It was a lengthy return for this driver, but several hours later we regained