Sweet as a sugar cube
Sucre Travel Blog› entry 22 of 36 › view all entries
Sucre could be a European town, all narrow streets and white colonial buildings with cast-iron balconies. Its main plaza is beautiful with lots of big trees and benches and obligatory shoe-shine boys (who I couldn`t patronise as I had my white shoes shined by a little boy in La Paz - he did an extra special job and my shoes are now blindingly white). Compared to La Paz, Sucre is flat, warm and laid-back; a perfect place to spend a couple of days (if only I had longer).
A Dutch girl from La Paz came with me and we booked ourselves into Sucre Backpackers, which was a nice place with two open courtyards and free breakfast (bread and jam, tea or coffee). One of the places to watch football in Sucre is the Joy Ride cafè, run by a Dutch man, so it was particularly packed for the Holland vs Argentina game. There was some good food there, including a Bossche Bol (basically a gigantic profiterole filled with cream instead of custard), and a wide selection of beers. I had some interesting food that first day; an 8 Boliviano (less than AU$2) menu that included soup with some unidentifiable, but nevertheless tasty, meat; and milanesa de pollo which is basically a chicken schnitzel, but in this case, a schnitzel in an omelette, served over rice and potatoes. For dinner Elisabeth (Dutch girl) and Wes (American guy in our dorm) and Maya, an Israeli girl we met randomly, went to a little restaurant where I had the strangest vegetarian lasagne: it was flat, three layers of lasagne sheets floating in a sea of milky cheesy liquid with a tiny bit of cheese and tomato in the centre. Perhaps the Bolivian idea of a lasagne? Who knows.
The following day I hiked up and out of town to see the view from the Mirador. There`s a big tree-covered hill in Sucre with a few metal towers and also a cross that`s illuminated at night, on the top. You can catch a taxi to the Mirador but I figured it would be a nice walk. I took the wrong path and had to backtrack, and I almost ended up climbing the hill itself (I later found out the Mirador is at the base of the hill, where you can get a good view of the city from a little plaza - I had tried to scale the hill which is probably entirely possible but not exactly the tourist thing to do).
I planted myself at Joy Ride to watch Brazil vs Japan, then, Australia vs Croatia with an influx of Aussies who didn`t know how the game had ended (I knew). Confusion over why Schwarzer was on the bench was overridden by excitement that we actually qualified; many beers were drunk and this continued on through the night and into dinner (another milanesa de pollo). We only stayed 2 nights in Sucre - I wanted to split what little time I had between Sucre and Potosi, so it was off to Potosi on Friday morning in a private taxi with Elisabeth, Wes, and Isabella (an Aussie I met way back in Lima). Sucre has a lot to offer the person looking for somewhere a little less mad and chaotic, not to mention clean and European (but perhaps lacking in ¨real¨ Bolivian culture) than La Paz or other places in Bolivia... espero que pueda regresar!