Veliko Turnovo Travel Blog› entry 34 of 37 › view all entries
Could I please get a ticket to Veliko Tarnovo?
Oh no, the Bosfori Express line is being fixed, it is not going to Veliko Tarnovo for a month or so.
It gets as far
as Dimitrovgrad or
Can I get to Veliko Tarnovo from there?
knows? It is
So I hop on the Bosfori Express with Andy and Katho (Ruth decides that it is pushing it too much for her return to
This morning I wake up to knocking at the door - "
A three hour train to Veliko Tarnovo is charming, with a kind Bulgarian lady showing us to the train, then sharing a compartment with us. She talks to us in English, and looks like us when we don't understand. When Katho looks up "thank you" in Bulgarian she beams at us. A young guy hops on, she talks rapidly to him, and he turns to us and says "I can speak English no problems". He is studying to be a tour guide (speaking Bulgarian, Russian, German, Italian, English and a little Polish and Slovakian), and has lived for a while in the
To define very poor English: he was able to communicate to us that he was a final year Philosophy major, he favourite philosopher is Plato (he doesn't like Democritis because he is materialistic rather than idealistic), he has worked in Greece (being half Greek), and doesn't like Bulgarian because the people don't study philosophy or science enough, and the skinheads are racist against the Turks, Muslims, Russians and Macadonians. The most charming thing about our conversation is that Bulgarians nod their head for no and shake their head for yes, which is very confusing even if you know it is happening. The one thing you assume is universal...
He told us that it is ironic that with
Now we are in Veliko Tarnovo. He made it to the Hostel with the lightning beginning (first rain of the trip), with a charming hostess and empty rooms. We walked through the city with beautiful cobblestone roads and well-dressed people (a European city in an ancient capital), then settled down to dinner.
By the start of dinner, with the amazing view out the window over the Yantra River Gorge, with old houses clinging to the side of the cliffs and a river meandering below (interestingly, Meander was a river by Ephesus, the word meander comes from the description of the flow of the Meander River), I was in love with Bulgaria. By the end of dinner, with a wonderful vegetarian lasagne and many beers with Andy and Katho for $7, I was avidly reading the Veliko Tarnovo real estate classifieds. Maybe at the least I could have a summer house here?