Closer to The Beach

Koh Phangan Travel Blog

 › entry 18 of 23 › view all entries
We moved from Ko Samui to Ko Phangan. Ko Phangan is where your friends who like trance music go to dance in the sand at Full Moon Parties. We'd just missed one, which was probably good because I only dance to Blondie these days.

The night before, Em and I had drank far, far too many Singhas and played game after game of free pool in a girly bar on our way back to our (expensive) wooden shack on Buddha Beach. The girls in the bar loved us, and played the Black Eyed Peas twice, for our enthusiastic benefit. As we were making our way out, some patronising English sexpat patronised us for a few minutes. Once we'd established that he hadn't been to Cambodia, we decided he was an idiot. We use Cambodia as a measure for everything these days. Still, he recommended that if were were going to Ko Phangan, we should stay at Bottle Beach.

So we did.

To get to Ko Phangan, we took a ferry. Due to the previous night's indulgences, Emma found this slightly trying. Once we got off the ferry, we needed to take a minibus taxi to the north of the island, where we could charter a longtail boat to Bottle Beach. There is no other way of getting there. In the minibus, I met some very nice Kiwis and spent half an hour extolling the virtues of Cambodia and England. I love England so much when I'm away. I'm so proud to be English. Emma spent half an hour being very brave and, once we stopped at the boat-place, very sick.

Bottle Beach truly is nearly perfect. There's no electricity until 5.30pm. We slept in a bamboo hut on the beach and left the windows open so the sunrise would wake us up. It is beautiful. We snorkelled and spent hours chasing the neon fish around the reef.

The next day, we had to leave for Hat Rin, the famous Full Moon beach. We had to see it, but we weren't impressed by it. Again, too many people. Still, we sunbathed for a bit, then went for dinner.

On the way to dinner, there was a thunderstorm. A big one. All the lights flickered, and then died. They stayed dead for three hours. In those three hours a tiny Thai lady somehow managed to cook us the best meal we'd had since we got into Thailand. It was a marvel. Then we spent ten minutes in the rain looking for a bar we knew we's seen, showing The Simpsons movie. We needed to experience Spiderpig. But, we got lost, and ended up watching The Beach, which is based in and around all the place we've been. Having seen the reality, now I think that Leo DiCaprio didn't know the half of it.
Join TravBuddy to leave comments, meet new friends and share travel tips!
Koh Phangan
photo by: alanmica