Arrival in Kashmir
While the surrounding Korakoram Range of the Himalayas were blanketed, only patches of snow littered the gray shores of Dal Lake as a taxi-boater paddled us across its glassy waters in a shikhara . Miles of elaborately trimmed house boats lay vacant, absorbing sunshine in the chilly air, awaiting the summer season. As we approached the Erin, Rehman Langoo ran out to greet us. Rehman had aged considerably more than the seven-and-a-half years since I had last seen him. He still maintained a toothy smile, but his thick head of curly black hair had grayed; his face, wrinkled and weathered. He didn't immediately recognized me, but was exhilarated to have been remembered, and returned to; especially so early in the year.
He proudly showed us the super deluxe houseboat Erin, built in the early 1960's; the flagship of his small fleet. Creaking, carpeted floors led us through three sleeping chambers which were furnished with wide, four-poster beds topped with colorful quilts. Nightstands and mirrored dressing tables were adorned with shaded lamps, hand-painted flower vases, and white doilies. Attached baths included four-legged bathtubs which were filled by buckets of hot water from an outside source. The dining room boasted a thick table, six chairs laced in leather, embroidered tapestry walls, and elaborately hand-crafted furniture. Delicate white curtains dressed windows which flooded a parlor with daylight and provided spectacular views of the lake and nearby mountains.
The smaller houseboat, Young Erin, was more modestly decorated, furnished, and priced. It replaced the vessel which I had stayed on years earlier, the New Erin, now resting on its starboard side, submerged, behind the Erin. But, Chris and I opted for the low-budget hut which was built on a narrow spit of land between the boats. Our simple room included a king-sized bed, heavy quilts and blankets, a small table, two chairs, a dim yellow light bulb, and a pot-bellied wood-stove. Our ten dollar a day price included
breakfast, an afternoon pot of tea, dinner, firewood, and unlimited use of a shikhara.
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