Jaipur Ghat drummers
Ghat in Pushkar
is the only one with an open view from the road to the lake. It faces west, and so attracts a big crowd at sunset. It's quite a spectacle. Certainly the sunset is magnificent. The lake shimmers reddy-orange as the sun disappears behind a hill. But the people-watching is pretty magnificent too. A group of drummers - very good - busk for half an hour, and give a rousing finale as the sun sets. A small car draws up, three saffron robed, cowled, long-bearded, old Indian men get out, and position themselves facing the sunset, cross legged by a tree. One then reads a newspaper. Indian musicians attempt to play to you for a tip. Indian woman come up to try to sell bangles, as do their children. The children are more persistent. A few sadhus and others beg. But odder than all those are the foreigners. There are the 30 somethings camera brigade, who snap away at the sun with their expensive lenses. They're in sensible shorts/ trousers (Rohan??) and T shirts. There's the 20 something women in strappy tops, eyed up by the young Indian men. There's the indeterminate - aged hippy types, some of whom have pretty obviously been on the bhang lassi ( you can also get bhang chai, apparently.) Baggy trousers are de rigeur, and for many dreadlocks, or long curly hair, and ankle jewellery are too. One Irish guy wears a trilby and plays the guitar badly. A group of young Sikhs try to sing along with him. Another guy plays an odd metallic instument, like ones you see on Brighton seafront. The "do you want anything to smoke" lady wanders around whispering and making the occasional sale. Two Orthodox Jewish men, in black suits and broadbrimmed hats stand at the side of the crowd. Darkness falls pretty swiftly, and within 30 minutes the crowd has thinned. We're soon off to Jaipur, said to be full of hassle, one thing Pushkar certainly hasn't been. Who needs alcohol to relax with all this around?