Lognan Refuge ~ A late start and a long walk

Chamonix Travel Blog

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Argentiere glacier in the background

What a memorable day! We decided to take the bus to the next town, Argentiere (1,252m) and do a trek up the woods to the Argentiere Glacier lookout point at Logan, 1,972m. However, we started off late and by the time we took the bus departing Chamonix at 11am and arriving in Argentiere and started walking, it was already 11.30am.

Instead of getting onto the intended forest trail leading from Argentiere to Lognan, we went on the wrong trail and ended up walking up the ski slope that was not very nice as it was quite bare, open and with never-ending ascent. It would be much nicer to walk zig-zag up through the forest.

Mt Dolent, at the back Argentiere Glacier, is where the three countries meet. See tiny refuge on bottom left
Finally, along the way, we made it onto a bicycle trail that brought us in and out of the forest areas. That was much nicer and we even had lunch on a small bridge across a river with the water flowing down from the mountains. It was nearly 2pm by the time we were ready to set off again.

After continuing on the forest trail for some time, we finally saw the Lognan cable car station some distance away. Seeing where the station was and the actual distance to reach it could be so different. We were told by two other people coming down the trail that the Lognan Refuge was still about an hour walk away.

We continued with our leisurely pace through the woods and even picked plenty of blueberries along the way. It was nearly 4.15pm when we saw finally saw Lognan Refuge and part of the Argentiere Glacier in sight.

Sunset over the Alps
The clouds parted and Mt Dolent came into sight. What a wonderful view! On the way to the refuge, we saw a number of people walking towards us in the direction of the cable car station. When we finally reached the Refuge at 4.45pm, there were only a few people there. We inquired about the last cable car and were told that it was at 5pm. And the station was still about half an hour walk away.

We did not waste anymore time looking at the beautiful glacier at the back of the Refuge and rushed off in order to catch the last cable car. Instead of taking the normal trail, we took a short cut through the forest vegetation towards the cable car station. It was an unofficial trail and at some parts, the vegetation was so overgrown that we had to push our way through. It was also quite slippery at some parts and I slipped and fell once. But that was when I saw the nicest blueberry bush with some of the biggest blueberries!

Halfway through this unofficial trail, we saw the cable car proceeding to the station. By the time we reached the station, it was already 5.20pm and the whole place was closed. So we missed the last cable car down.

We took a short rest before moving on since daylight only faded from 8pm onwards. We took the zig-zag trail down the forest, the one what we had missed finding in the morning. It took us about two and half hours to reach Argentiere.

By the time we reached the train station, the station was closed and the last train left about 2 hours ago. The last day bus also left at about half hour ago and we had no choice but to wait for the night bus. Hungry and tired, we went for a nice dinner at a local French restaurant, Luigi. It was quite crowded but the atmosphere and the food was great. Unknowingly to us, while we were waiting for our dessert, the night bus to Chamonix also left at 10pm.

We must have had the wrong time table as we waited at the bus stop for a good hour for a bus that would never come. In the end, we had to call for a cab back to Chamonix which was about 3km away. We could have walked that 3km back but after all the walking for the day and the good food and wine, we were just too tired to walk. Hence we ended up paying €50 for that short ride which was quite a rip off. 


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Argentiere glacier in the backgrou…
Argentiere glacier in the backgro…
Mt Dolent, at the back Argentiere …
Mt Dolent, at the back Argentiere…
Sunset over the Alps
Sunset over the Alps
photo by: mountaingirl