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Que calor (un tinto de verano, por favor) !

Sevilla Travel Blog › entry 5 of 12 › view all entries

My most remarkable travel memories are linked to Spain. It must be the most beautiful country I have ever seen. So I went to see some new cities this summer and to revisit some others. We traveled from Madrid to Sevilla, Granada, and finally Malaga.
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Que calor (un tinto de verano, por favor) !

My mother (and my fathers hat) on the AVE train to Sevilla

We left Madrid early. At 7am we stood at the Atocha station, with our earlier collected AVE tickets. The Puerta de Atocha has a mini-jungle inside of it! With huge palm trees and some tropical birds. What a crazy idea, but definately something to look at as you wait for a train. We bought breakfast in one of the shops, and it tasted wonderful. We found ourselves a real baguette this time, with vegetables and cheese and all, instead of the greasy croissants that are sold in most of the breakfast bars. The view from out of the train was wonderful: the hills, the olive tree fields, the blue sky (again cloudless, like it was for the rest of our holiday),... lovely!
Two and a half hours later, and 534 kilometers southwards, we arrived in
Sevilla.

The Patio of Casa Pilatos
It was warm in Madrid, but hot in Seville. Temperatures rose to 38 degrees, but were bearable. We found our hotel without to much trouble. Only my parents huge trollybag caused some difficulties, but that's their mistake, better choose to travel light.

After checking in, we walked to Casa Pilatos for a visit. It was early noon but the sun burned already. We paid for the ground floor only, which was wonderful. Some sweet patio gardens, ancient roman statues, great architecture, large wooden doors,... A great start of our stay in Sevilla.

Later we found ourselves a "Mas" supermercado to buy a picnic. We got baguettes, cheese, serrano ham and those little tomatoes (don't know how they are called in English, we call them 'Cherry tomatoes', but that probably won't be the right translation), which we took to Plaza del Triunfo for lunch in the shade of a tree, close to the statue.
The little garden in Casa Pilatos
We had a nice view on the cathedral and the walls of the Real Alcazar, and spotted the first of the typical white doves that fly around Sevilla. They were a gift from the Filipino government as a thanks for a great exposition, and live nowhere else in Spain but in Seville.

In the afternoon we visited the
cathedral, a huge building, and one of the largest cathedrals in the world. It might be large, but it isn't that beautiful. There isn't any symmetry due to the constantly adding of parts, and there isn't much unity or atmosphere neither. Yet truly beautiful are the silver/diamond treasuries, the paintings, the ceilings and the grave of Columbus (recently declared to be the official one, after years of dispute and, finally, a DNA research).
The Giralda tower
Again, we followed other peoples guide, this time in Flemish! The explanations were really interesting, and so was the climb to the Giralda tower.

The
Giralda is the symbol of Sevilla and offers a great view over the city. Yet you don't climb it with stairs but just a steep floor that goes up and up and up. I found it actually much more comfortable! Sevilla from the sky isn't as harmonious as e.g. a view over Paris. You'll see many different colors and styles of buildings, where in Paris everything is white and ordered. Yet it was nice to be up there, and while we enjoyed the sight the bells above us started to ring. This completed the picture, but nearly made me get a heart attack too.

Before returning to the hotel we went to find the tourist information office to collect some data about Flamenco performances, and we walked past Plaza Nueva, the town hall and the Avenida de la Constitución.
View from upon the Giralda tower
Yet
after that the temperatures were so high we decided to return to the air co hotel for short siësta. Our newly collected map turned out to be very useful, because the Santa Cruz is one big maze of small streets, and our hotel was located in the middle of them. Finding the cathedral wasn't to hard, since it is so huge just walking in the right direction got us there. The hotel, on the other side, was a little more dificult to find.

We asked the receptionist of the hotel for a nice restaurant, and he recommended Torre de la Plata (between the river and the Avenida de la Constitución), a place owned by Antonio, a friend of his. At first I was afraid he just promoted the place because he knew the owner, but that turned out to be not the case. The first time we arrived here, el Torre was still closed. So we went to an Irish pub not so far of (by coincidence, it was the only terrace which had three free seats), to drink wonderful tinto de verano.
The tomb of Columbus
Then we got back to the restaurant, which was now opened. The interior was typical Andalucian and clean, it had a nice patio and a great, typical cuisine. There wasn't a menu in English, yet the waiter told us "I am the English menu, I translate for you". So we found it easy to choose and had a great time. A bottle of wine only cost 7,50 euros and the meal was cheap as well, great prices for great quality!

On our way home to the hotel we walked through the Santa Cruz again, and passed by many nice terraces and bars. Yet we wanted to get some sleep and walked on with discipline. Until we came to a little corner, where live Flamenco guitar music was played, and tinto de verano looked delicious... The discipline was gone soon, and before we realized it, we were sitting down enjoying the atmosphere and the tinto summer wine.

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My mother (and my fathers hat) on …
My mother (and my fathers hat) o
The Patio of Casa Pilatos
The Patio of Casa Pilatos
The little garden in Casa Pilatos
The little garden in Casa Pilatos
The Giralda tower
The Giralda tower
View from upon the Giralda tower
View from upon the Giralda tower
The tomb of Columbus
The tomb of Columbus
The jungle in Atocha trainstation
The jungle in Atocha trainstation
Little garden in Casa Pilatos
Little garden in Casa Pilatos
Casa Pilatos: azulejos
Casa Pilatos: azulejos
picnic at Plaza del Triunfo
picnic at Plaza del Triunfo
Inside the cathedral
Inside the cathedral
Giralda tower
Giralda tower
Santa Cruz
Santa Cruz
At Plaza del Triunfo
At Plaza del Triunfo
Flaherty's is an official Guinness Irish pub in the center of Sevilla, next to the huge cathedral, in the Calle Alemanes. They have terraces outside, a nice patio, and many tables in the air conditioned interior. We found the service to be very correct and friendly too.

Since this is a pub, naturaly, it isn't a place to eat or drink typical Spanish specialties. Yet we found the tinto de verano nice, and we had some 'tapas' that were really tasty too. I think the main advantage of Flaherty's is that it is open all day, both café and kitchen. So whenever you feel hungry or thirsty, you can come here. It is also a good place for those who doesn't like the Spanish cuisine.

I didn't tried the dishes here but I saw what the tables around us were getting, and stuff like spaghetti, hamburgers with fries,... looked very tasty (while in most Spanish restaurants they're no good).
This is a small tavern in the old center of Sevilla, close to the cathedral and the Avenida de la Constitución. It has a typical Andalusian interior with a high ceiling, colorful tiles, wooden tables,... The cuisine as well is mainly typically Spanish/Andalusian, yet very tasteful. The menu isn't large but has enough variation to please everyones taste, and the wine is very cheap yet good.

The service as well was correct and friendly. There is no English menu but one of the waiters (just one, literally) speaks English and translates everything for you. He didn't know the translation for eggplant, but than he drew it for us! So don't worry about having to order something without knowing for sure what it will be :)

The Torre de la Plata is open all days I guess, but it opens late (at around 8pm). We went there for dinner, yet there is a good chance that is is open during the daytime as well, for serving tapas. If you go early there is no need for reservations. Oh, and by the way, the owner will great you at the door. His name is Antonio :)
The Altamira is a restaurant in the Santa Cruz Barrio. It is a simple place, but they have some terraces outside and in the evenings music is played on the corner of the street. That makes it very nice to hang around here. The area is not to crowded so a nice breeze can pass through and cool you down.

You basically come here for wine and tapas, but in the evenings you can eat a meal here as well. We tried both the wine and the meal. They were both good, yet there are better restaurants in Seville to have dinner. I would recommend this place to have drinks outside.
Casa Pilatos is located in the Santa Cruz quarter, at Plaza Pilatos. It is a luxurious city palace dating from the 16th century. You'll see many wonderful azulejos (walls covered with the typical tiles), and enjoy the mudejar architecture. There is a nice patio and some little gardens too.

Casa Pilatos was build by the duke of Tarifa, who travelled trough Europe between 1518 and 1520. There he fell in love with the Italian renaissance, and he decided to build a home is Sevilla that reflected his impressions. It became a wonderfull mix between ancient Greek/Roman statues and artwork, the classic renaissance, and the Arabic/Andalusian Mudejar. The statues on the patio date from the Roman empire (5th century before Christ), and are of a priceless value.

The house of Pilatos is now open for public. You'll pay 5 euro to visit the ground floor and the gardens, and 8 euro for the whole house (which we didn't pay). I think seeing the ground floor only makes a great experience already. It is not just one patio, but some gardens as well, so you can spend some time just down there. There are no student discounts, however.
Santa Cruz is the quarter north of the cathedral and the Alcazar. It is definitely worth a visit, because it is the most authentic and typical neighborhood of Sevilla. The streets are really small and old, just like the buildings. In the evenings it is nice to come and sit on a terrace here, to stroll for souvenirs or to enjoy the music played on the corners.

Santa Cruz used to be the Jewish quarter, but nowadays it is Spanish, with many houses in Andalusian style, decorated with flowers and painted in white and yellow.

Take a detailed map when you need to find a specific street address here. The place is a maze! We had our hotel standing in the middle of it, and after two days we found our way around without a map. But when you first enter you might find it difficult to navigate. We got lost during our fist hour in Seville, passed by a delicious ice cream shop, but never were able to rediscover it later... Such a waste!
The Maria de la Sede cathedral must be one of the most famous buildings in Sevilla. It is the largest cathedral in Europe and one of the largest in the world. Since it is this exceptional, it is made UNESCO inheritance too. It's tower, the Giralda, has become the symbol of Sevilla, and offers a beautiful view over the city.

Originally, on the place were the Maria de la Sede stands, a Mosque was build, yet that is hardly noticeable nowadays. Only the little patio de los naranjas, at the exit of the cathedral, shows some original Mudejar walls, that ones belonged to the Medina.

Things you have to visit here are the large main altar, completely in gold and full of artwork. Note that the statues are designed to match perspective. The statues above are much much bigger than the ones below, to make it look like they all have the same size.

Another must-see is the tomb of Columbus. There has been much dispute since many places claim to have the remains of Columbus buried, but recently DNA research has confirmed that the bones in the tomb of Sevilla indeed belong to the great explorer that made Sevilla rich. The organ is immense and exceptional too, together with the treasury chambers, where many golden and diamond objects can be viewed.

Sevilla's cathedral might be the largest, yet not the most beautiful one. There are about 5 big parts, but the construction has been expanded and expanded many times and therefor lost it's unity and symmetry. The inside is huge, but I missed the touch of magic that floats around in other cathedrals and churches. Take the time to walk around the outside too, it gives a good impression of the size of the Maria de la Sede.

The Giralda tower is included in the entrance fee, so take the time to climb it as well. The view is wonderful, and so is the walk up. There are no stares, just a steep hill that goes round and round. You'll find it much more comfortable to climb than stares.

I find it inappropriate to ask an entrance fee for a cathedral, but in Sevilla, you need to pay. I think the fee is 7,50 euro's for adults and 3 euros for students. It is worth the many for sure, but still I think it is quite expensive... If I'm correct the entrance is free on Sundays, yet I can't confirm.
We stayed in hotel Abanico for two nights. It is a nice hotel with clean rooms and a great location in the heart of the Santa Cruz, on walking distance from Casa Pilatos, the Alcazar, and the Cathedral.

The service was a bit cold but yet correct, and we found one receptionist that was always willing to help us and give us tips about restaurants and shows, so we were happy about the personnel. This hotel has a small Andalucian patio at the reception, and we liked our stay here.

Yet please don't book breakfast here because it tastes bad! Most breakfasts in Spanish hotels are simple, yet this one was both simple and horrible. Even the orange juice was undrinkable, the bread wasn't fresh, the cornflakes old and dried out...

This was a bit of a downside, but overall, a nice place to stay with excellent air conditioning too! Not unimportant when staying in the hot Seville!

We paid about 35 euro per person per night
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