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Egyptian temples and Spanish fountains

Madrid Travel Blog | Travelogue | Travel Journal

My most remarkable travel memories are linked to Spain. It must be the most beautiful country I have ever seen. So I went to see some new cities this summer and to revisit some others. We traveled from Madrid to Sevilla, Granada, and finally Malaga.

Egyptian temples and Spanish fountains

Plaza Mayor in the early morning

I woke up early, but slept well. At around 2am I was woken ones by the light in the corridor (as my little window was an interior one and let all the light from the hallway through). Yet when I think about it, it probably wasn't the light that woke me but the people that lit it. Dutchmen! Shouting out about the Coca Cola in the fridge and where to put their water, slamming the doors,... It is a Belgian cliché that wherever you go on the globe you always run in to some Dutchmen making noise. The cliché was ones more confirmed during my first night in Spain. Yet apart from the little incident, I had a wonderful sleep, and when I looked up through the patio window the next day all I saw was the blue from the sky and the diffuse light of the morning sun.

We walked over the
Plaza Mayor and the Plaza de la Villa, to enjoy the architecture.

Plaza de la villa
Plaza Mayor is huge but not too charming, Plaza de la Villa (with the town hall) is small but authentic. I liked both because of the buildings that can be seen here, yet they couldn't compete the sweetness of Santa Ana, that became "our" place to hang out from the first night on. Next stop on the walk was the Viaduct and it's views over the city. We had breakfast in a bar close by, and then walked on to the Almudena Cathedral. This is a majestic building. I love the way it looked, young and modern, both from the outside and the inside. It must be one of the most beautiful cathedrals I have ever seen, together with the Saint Peter in Rome, the dome in Florence, and Chartres in France.
The Almudena Cathedral from the outside
Yet it is build in a different style than most other cathedrals, and that alone made the visit special. Then we wanted to see the Royal Palace, but while queuing I noticed that the entrance is free for EU citizens on Wednesday. So we got out again only to return the next day. Instead of the visiting the palace we walked across Plaza de Oriente and the Jardines de Sabatini, both beautiful and green. Madrid in general is a city with much space and air, wide clean streets and beautiful views. The view over the palace from both gardens is wonderful, and offers different perspectives than just the view from the front square at the cathedral. Our route led to
Plaza de España, where the monument for writer Cervantes (Don Quichote) stands.
Inside the Almudena cathedral
It's a nice monument, and the architecture of the buildings behind it is also remarkable.

Later we climbed the stairs to the
Debod Temple. When I saw pictures of it during my research it looked like nothing special. But that was so wrong!!! I absolutely loved it. It stands on a beautiful location, in a park a little away from the noise, on a hill that offers great views over the modern part of Madrid and the palace, and surrounded by a small pond. Inside is a little museum, but mainly just the carvings in the walls, the shrine, and the huge rocks made it worth visiting. It isn't too hard to imagine what this beautiful building must have looked like when it was closed in by walls and still intact.
The beautiful and modern windows in the Almudena cathedral. I simply love them, yet I took a picture of only one. They were all wonderful!
Egypt in the hart of Madrid, strange but true!

We bought ourselves a bocadillo meal in the Museo del Jamon, at the Gran via. It was cheap and good, and the shop itself is worth a visit since it has more jamón than you can ever imagine. After lunch we took the metro to the Atocha station. We needed this stop to go to the Arte Reina Sofia museum, and while passing by we went to collect our AVE train tickets to Sevilla, which we had booked in advance. Yet the Arte Reina Sofia is closed on Thursday, so we went there for nothing. Instead, we walked through the entire
Retiro Park, laid down in the grass, had drinks on the terraces, and enjoyed the beautiful weather.
The statue at Plaza España
In the late afternoon we passed by the Puerta de Alcala, Plaza de Cibeles and Plaza de Colón, to see the fountains and architecture there.

Around 8 we went back to Plaza Santa Ana's “Cerveceria de Santa Ana”, to spend the night. There was a strange group of people passing by (we believe it was a sect or something). The night before we saw them walking slowly in a row, holding each others shoulders, and they all had their eyes closed except for the first one, who guided. Now they walked around the square again, in a row, all dressed in red and imitating the first one. If he waved, they all waved, if he shouted, they all shouted,… Odd but fun, especially when you've got a huge pint of Tinto de Verano in front of you and some delicious tapas.

We walked the streets below the plaza looking for a restaurant.
The Debod Temple
One guy offered us a 3 courses menu for 7,50 euro, wine included. So my mother, who is always in to cheap stuff, sat down immediately. We all should have known that was the most stupid thing to do. F_cking tourist traps. But there we were, eating horrible food at an ugly terrace in a dead end street, in front of a dirty tavern with poor service! Atmosphere was crab of course, my mother feeling guilty for making such a lazy decision, me being pissed of, and my father saying nothing at all... My desert was three half parts of canned melocoton (peaches) and my starter was Gazpacho that was far from homemade. Does that picture it? We left as soon as we finished the disgusting meal, not saying a word to each other, just giving the damn waiter an ugly face. But of course, we were the stupid ones that fell for the bloody offer.

Whatever,... We decided to brighten the atmosphere, since there was no fun in returning to the hostel all angry and silent. Back on Plaza de Santa Ana we found a Vinoteca on the corner, were we could have some Cava. That was just what we all needed to get happy again, so we sat there until late drinking this marvelous Spanish Champaign. It was great fun!

cabotono says:
COOL!
Posted on: Aug 11, 2007
lindseyrpi says:
I wish I could plan a trip for my parents like this! You plan the type of trip I would love,
My parents are want the pool, beach, and resort as well.
Posted on: Aug 08, 2007
rayray says:
Top blog! You can come and write mine!!! :)
Posted on: Aug 02, 2007
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Plaza Mayor in the early morning
Plaza de la villa
The Almudena Cathedral from the ...
Inside the Almudena cathedral
The beautiful and modern windows...
The statue at Plaza España
The Debod Temple
The Debod Temple (Walking like a...
Drinking Estrella in Parque del ...
La Puerta de Alcala
Cava !!!
La Almudena
At Plaza de Oriente
View of the palace from the Jard...
Plaza España
This Vinoteca is at the far end corner of Plaza de Santa Ana. They serve nice Cava here, for a good price (I believe it was 2,60 euro for one glass), the tapas are delicious, and so is the wine. Service is a bit cool but correct, and the terraces have many seats so if your a bit lucky you can find yourself a place without trouble.
This is not a real museum but more like a shop that is decorated like a museum. The walls and ceiling are completely covered with the typical Spanish ham or jamón, but also with pictures and tools. I'm a vegetarian, so I found it a bit of a horrible sight, all this pieces of animals hanging around. But I did taste the ham and I must admit it is delicious. Italian prosquito and Spanish serrano, it must be the best meat in the world!

We bought a simple lunch here: a bocadillo each, me with some tasty Spanish cheese and my parents with ham. They were large and good, costing only 1,25 euro. You can also eat raciones (meals) in the museo, inside at the bar or outside on the terrace (which is directly next to the Gran Via so not too charming). The plates that were served looked really good, so I can advise you to try one, although we didn't.
The interior of the museo
Plaza España is one of the largest open squares in Madrid. It is surrounded by many wonderful buildings like the Torre de Madrid and the Edificio de España, both designed by Otamendi. The square exists since the early fifties and is a popular attraction ever since.

Most important here is the large monument, dedicated to Miquel de Cervantes, writer of Don Quijote. You'll see statues of Don Quijote and Sancho Panza, and of Cervantes himself.

The square is nice to hang around, with much shade and beautiful architecture to admire. Of course, the monument itself is an important sight in Madrid, that you really can't miss.
The temple of Debod is an ancient Egyptian monument standing in the west of Madrid, near the Jardines de Ferraz and Plaza del Marqués de Cerralbo. The building, dating from the 4th century before Christ, is brought to Madrid stone by stone, and it was a gift from the Egyptian government. When the Aswan dam was build in the River Nile the place where Debod stood would be flooded, so it had to be repositioned. Many Spanish archaeologists and engineers worked on the project, and the donation of the temple was the Egyptian 'thanks' to Madrid.

What can be seen of Debod today is only a shadow of what the temple was like in full glory, but yet it is definitely worth a visit. The location is quiet and wonderful, with great views over the modern part of Madrid and the Palacio Real. The carvings in the temple are well preserved and so is the shrine where the statue of the honored god was kept. Debod is a little piece of Egypt in the hart of Spain. A bit of a strange sight, but wonderful!
This is a must-see in Madrid! A beautiful cathedral, build in neoclassicism architecture, to make it fit with the style of the palacio real that is next to it.

The plans for the building were made in the 16th century, yet the construction was started only in the late 19th century, and took more than hundred years to complete. La Almudena has a very light interior, with colorful ceilings, modern painted glass windows, and even some pop-art influences. It is not the kind of building you imagine when thinking of a cathedral, but then again, it exceeds the expectations.

As I said before, this must be one of the most beautiful catholic buildings I've seen, together with the Saint Peter in Rome, the dome in Florence and the Chartres cathedral in France.

The entrance to the Almudena is free, when you want to visit the museum you need to pay though.
Their are many parks in Madrid, but the Retiro is the largest. We've spend quite some hours here, enjoying the sun, the water, the Estrella beer, the green grass,... It was a hot day and we needed some rest. Retiro is excellent for that. It is a lovely place to walk around in, largely shaded by the trees.

In the center is a pool where you can rent little rowboats, and were you can watch the Monumento a Alfonso XII. From the monument you have a nice view over the water too. In the gardens are two palaces as well: the Palacio Velázquez and the Palacio de Cristal. Retiro is huge, and when you want to see every corner of it you need quite some time. We walked the whole way from south to north, but didn't get to see it all. Yet is was a great way to pass the afternoon.

Two other parks I liked was the Plaza de Oriente (not really a park but more like a square) and the Jardines de Sabatini. They are both close to the Palacio Real and offer nice views on the palace. I've written more about the Jardines de Sabatini in my España travel blog of july 11 2007.
Jardines de Sabatini
2,026 km (1,259 miles) traveled
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