Full moon fluro fun

Koh Phangan Travel Blog

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Day 126

Tuesday 31/07/2012


Up and off walking to the train on time, just one stop to Sentral station then pretty much straight onto the airport bus. Had a wee nap on the way :) We got checked in and got our boarding passes then grabbed a couple of wraps for breaky. Our 10.35am flight ended up being delayed half an hour but it didn't really matter to us. We arrived in Surat Thani and there was a bus waiting to take people to Don Sak pier. From there you can go to Koh Samui, Koh Tao and Koh Phangan. We bought a combined bus boat ticket to Koh Phangan for 500 baht each. (It is about 25 baht to 1 NZD) It was about an hour and a half bus and nearly 2 on the ferry. Was a pretty easy trip though.


When we arrived we grabbed some drinks from the 7 eleven, (outside which Sam found one of the flyers for his gig :) ) then got in a little truck they call a taxi, up to Cookie bungalows http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g303907-d1439349-Reviews-Cookies_Bungalow-Koh_Phangan_Surat_Thani_Province.html (450 baht a night). It was sign posted well from the road but once we were down the driveway there was no obvious reception. A lady appeared out the back of the kitchen and told us to wait while she went to get someone. A guy turned up and after giving us some keys and gesturing towards a bunch of bungalows told is if we needed anything we would have to wait an hour because he was sleeping...ok then?


We had a bit of a duffy up then headed back past the pier meet some of the other guys djing the following night. We went to the venue for some tea. It is called Hacienda and is a pretty cool beach club with a pool and a swim up bar. Sam and I shared a curry and a salad. The guys all seemed really nice. We headed home early ish after finally getting an elusive taxi.


Day 127

Wednesday 1/08/2012


Got up and had breakfast at Cookie. Was ok but nothing great and they got our order wrong. The guy just about seems angry at you for being there, what a winner! We headed back to Hacienda around 1pm. The guys got set up etc. I got a chance to check my email and see some of the first pics of new baby Sophia Lilly Berendt....beautiful!


We pretty much just hung out swimming and sunning for the arvo. It was a bit of a disappointing turn out as the bar hadn't done the promotion they were supposed to. Was still loads of fun though. It is definitely another version of paradise lying under a frangapani tree next to a pool, drink in hand, listening to great house tunes. Sam's set went well and we got to hang out with some nice people. We found out there were at least 3 or 4 other things going on around the island that night also in the lead up to the full moon so that also explained where people were. I did also have a close encounter of the snakey kind when walking back from the bath room at one point. Nearly stepped on him but he moved out of my way thankfully! It was pretty close though! We headed home just before 1am.


Day 128

Thursday 2/08/2012


Tried breakfast at cookie again and it was not too bad. Fruit salad for me and egg baguette for Sam Sam, then we went and hired a motorbike from a place over the road. It was 200 baht a day which is nearly only a one way trip anywhere on our own in a taxi.


We popped into town to get some gas and to have a look in Tesco. Petrol was successful but Tesco was awful! It is the first of a 2 day Buddha holiday so they shelves were nearly bare and people were pushing and shoving....we didn't last long! We had a bit of a look around some other shops and I got a new sarong to replace my much loved but lost one from Indonesia.


Then we headed up to a north part of the island called Haad Salad. Scotty one of the other DJs was staying up there so we thought we would go for a look. We stopped for some 7 eleven supplies on the way then relaxed at Scotty's bungalow for the arvo. We went down to the beach for a bit and I had a massage for an hour :) We got a great massaman curry and some noodles for dinner back at Double Dukes (where Scotty is staying).


Day 129

Friday 3/08/2012


Decided to find something different for breakfast. We stopped at a little road side place where just one lovely little lady was working. I got a Thai omelette with pork and rice......super Yum! Sam had a tomato and onion omelette which was also tasty. We then headed back up to Scotty's for another day by the beach. The beaches so far are not that great I must say. really shallow and lots of rocks. Maybe I am just missing Kapas!


We had a snack of fried rice in the arvo, and decided we would go and check out the 'Jungle Experience' that was on that night. Scotty doesn't ride motorbikes but he hired one from his resort and Sam drove him on that while I took our bike. It was free entry before 11pm so we thought it was worth a look. We got there about 9.30pm it was a very cool set up in a clearing in the jungle in the middle of the island. Lots of fluoro stuff everywhere and a great sound system. We stayed until about 12.30am then thought we had better leave before we decided to drink and would have to leave the bikes there! It was packed and pumping by that stage.


Day 130

Saturday 4/08/2012


Back to Double Dukes when we got up to spend the morning and drop off the other bike. Another day of sunning and swimming. A massaman curry and a tuna sandwich shared for lunch. Pretty cruisy arvo and then we headed home around 6pm to have a rest before our pick up to go to the full moon party at 10pm. We stopped on the way back and had a yummy pesto pizza while the sun set over the ocean, then had a good nap.


We were up, dressed and ready for our ride at 10pm but it was nowhere to be seen. The bar man told us it was not coming until 11pm which was strange as we had definately been told 10pm because that gave us plenty of time to get to Sam's first set at 12am. Turned out that after he had told us and another group it would go at 10pm someone else asked if it could go at 11pm and he said sure and went home for a sleep without telling the rest of us. What a dick!


We ended up making it to the party beach of Haad Rin at about 11.45pm. What mayhem! We paid our 100 beach entry and set off to find the place Sam was playing. We were barely 50 meters in before we saw the first passed out cold girl whom no one knew....awesome. We ended up just heading for Mellow Mountain at the north end of the beach which was Sam's second set was and where one of the organisers was hanging out. Turned out that his 12am to 2am set was cancelled due to badly set up gear. Was good in a way that we could stop rushing around!


Gave us a chance to check out what was going on. I must say some of it was pretty grim! In the same 5 square meters of ocean there were 2 blokes having a pee, someone vomiting, someone nearly passed out and a couple having sex. Pretty gross! Another girl we know had seen this very same scenario at the June full moon party but I was not really expecting to see it too!


I haven't seen the actual attendance numbers but it must have been in the tens of thousands. I am actually impressed half of them make it out alive! The couple of kilometers of beach are covered in broken glass bottles, there are giant skipping ropes on fire that anyone can jump in and have a turn, drinks are served in buckets, magic mushroom shakes are available everwhere, lots of bars are up rocky staircases and have dodgey over ocean balconys.......this place is a death trap! We certainly saw some pretty serious looking injurys and lots of bandages in the few days following!


Of course in saying that we had a really fun time being the responsible adults we are :) Sam's set at Mellow Mountain was from 3am til 5am and he played back to back with Scotty which was cool. We also met up with a couple from NZ, Trev and Yules, who we have met a few times over the last few days and they are lovely. We stayed to watch the sun come up over the beautiful beach (the people on it were however not as beautiful as they had been at the start of the night before). After a squished taxi ride we got home around 8.30am.


Day 131

Sunday 5/08/2012


Not a lot went on today. We woke up around 1.30pm. I was actually feeling pretty chipper from having taken it pretty easy the night before, Sam however was not so lucky. I rode the bike into town and got a variety of beverages from the 7 eleven then came back and we both had a reasonable egg baguette from our place. I spent some of the arvo on the beach with my book and Sam stayed put watching movies etc in bed.


At dinner time we decided to take our chances eating at Cookie. We got an average green curry which they forgot to put the chicken in and some tasty but expensive spring rolls. Sam ended up ordering a bacon sandwich as well as he was still hungry. We really should have learnt our lesson to not eat here!


Day 132

Monday 6/08/2012


I got up and went for a bit of a ride to ask a few places about room prices for the next few days as some of the nice places get heaps cheaper a few days after full moon. I had no luck with anywhere really close so I went back and got Sam. We thought we had better go and check out options for getting back to Bangkok as now I am going to have to get an Indian visa before I go as I need to change my flights and will no longer have time when I arrive...what a hassle!


The pier was packed so we just had a quick look at some prices and decided to come back later. We headed to a beach resort called Lime and Soda, where Trev and Yules had stayed before full moon. It sounded really nice, had a pool and was close to the pier. We were in luck! They had a room for the following night for 400 baht...bargain! (that is about $16 NZD, over full moon it was as much as $500 NZD!!)


Breakfast time now so back up north to the omelette and rice lady. We decided to see a bit more of the island today so we went right up to a lookout in the north. It wasn't really a lookout but the area was beautiful. A much nicer beach than the others too. It was stinking hot though and there was not an ounce of shade in sight so we went back down the center of the island to the town of Thong Sala. Sam was in desperate need of some new togs so we went into a nice little shop and he found some straight away, full moon fluro blue :)


I was now ready for a swim and some icecream so we thought we would head back down south the the party beach (Haad Rin) to see how it had held up after its weekend beating. It was beautiful, they had done an amazing clean up job. There were still some odd bits of glass in the sand but nothing compared to a few days before.  We had some icecream and a swim. The swim was cut a bit short though due to something stingy in the water. Felt like lots of little pin pricks not very nice!


After that we rode back to the pier to get our boat, bus tickets. We had decided on a 650 baht combo that was a boat back to Surat Thani via Koh Samui, a bus to Surat Thani bus station then an overnight bus to Bangkok. A lovely 17 hour trip....boooo :( It was significantly the cheapest though so we got it all booked for leaving 12.30pm Wednesday. That was all our chores done for they day so went back home for a bit of lying on the beach.


About 6.15pm we headed across the road and up the hill for a drink in a bar famous for its sunset view. It was indeed lovely. When the sun was down we had a bit of a walk up the road to find some food and decided on a little restaurant/bungalows right next door to us on the beach. They were lovely and we had a great green curry and some fried noodles.


Day 133

Tuesday 7/08/2012


Up bright and early to move to Lime and Soda. (http://limesodathailand.com/) We loaded up with one bag and headed over on the bike. Dropped that bag off and hired a bike from Ithem, came back to Cookie, returned our original bike, had some breakfast next door, then moved the rest of our stuff on the new bike. We were moved, fed and in the pool by 11am :)


We saw Trev and Yules as we were moving in as they had moved back here now the prices were down. Trev was off to get tattooed for the day so we said we would catch up later on.


Since we had been here I had wanted a drink in a coconut so while we were lying by the pool Sam got me a baby coconut with white rum, it was simple but super yummy as well as beautiful with a frangipani garnish. I pretty much just stayed pool side all day swimming, reading and napping. Sam alternated between there and the relief from the heat in our room.


Trev and Yules turned back up around 6pm and his tattoo looked really good. We had a few drinks with them then had dinner in the restaurant. Really good Green curry and a tasty Tom Yum soup to share while watching some Olympic synchronized swimming.


Day 134

Wednesday 8/08/2012


We got up early so we could use the bike to go into town before we had to return it. Had a cheapy egg breakfast each then headed back to pack up. We said goodbye to Trev and Yules and grabbed a couple of drinks at the bar before starting our what was sure to be less than plesant day. A beer for Sam and a Pina colada for me. (Not normally a fav of mine but on a tropical island with fresh coconuts and pineapples I make an exception :)) Then we walked 10 or so minutes up the beach, got some 7 eleven snacks and arrived at 12pm for our 12.30pm boat as advised.


It was a total shambles with people everywhere and late boats etc. We finally got on to our extremely over crowded boat about 1.30pm. There were 2 levels of inside seats as well as people sitting the whole way around the outside. We started off standing inside downstairs but I was not feeling very safe down there and we eventually found a spot sitting in a doorway up top. Not ideal but after about 45 mins we stopped at Koh Samui and we managed to get a seat just inside the top level. There have been a few nasty boat accidents involving over loaded boats on these routes but it is pretty hard to avoid it. You can choose not to get on but you would have to pay again and it is likely the next one will be just as bad.


We made it safe to somewhere by Surat Thani then had an hour or so bus ride to the bus station. When we arrived we had about 45mins there before the next leg. We got some noodles, corn and a bread roll as the next stop wasn't going to be for another 5 hours (11pm). We got on and settled in on probably the least comfortable bus we have had for an overnight trip. We both managed to get a bit of sleep during the night though.

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Koh Phangan
photo by: alanmica