You go out, meet some guys, give them some drinks and they invite you for a party. Eu noa falo Portuguese (that's the only sentence I knew at that moment) and they don't speak English. We jumped in a car and drove a few 100KMs. Sometimes it was a little bit creepy especially when we drove through the 'jungle?/ rainforrest?'. But at the end it was a very nice experience! Thanks guys for the great party ...

Het uitrusten op de Antillen is voorbij. We hebben een paar heerlijke relaxte dagen gehad en zjn lekker bijgebruind. Op maandag veel, heel veel geslapen, een beetje rondgetoerd in een Jeep Wrangler die we van een collega van Erik voor een prikkie konden huren. Dit was maar goed ook omdat de bus van Erik uitgeleend was en deze vervolgens ook nog eens motorpech had gekregen.

Op dinsdag hebben we het wederom rustig aan gedaan, poging gedaan inentingen te regelen voor gele koorts (wat niet gelukt is) even geinternet en naar de kapper geweest. We vonden het zo sneu dat die mensen niks te doen hadden en mijn (Zwa) "zwaar beschadigde" haar kon wel een reparatie gebruiken. Verder natuurlijk nog naar het strand geweest. Daarna een biertje gepakt en wie komen we daar tegen? Anneke, ze was even een paar dagen voor zaken op Bonaire en wist dat wij er zaten. Ze had Peter al geprobeerd te bellen maar zijn telefoon was leeg. Dus gezellig even wat gedronken en gekletst.

Omdat we het Washington Slagbaaipark niet over mochten slaan zijn we daar woensdag nog even geweest. Erg mooie natuur!! ( we zagen zelfs op zee een parend stelletje grote schildpadden!!! PV).  De Jeep kwam op dat hobbelige terrein goed van pas. Verder is Peter nog even met zijn beoordelingsverslagen voor het werk bezig geweest. Dit was een heleboel werk, hij is na ruim 2 uur werken bijna op de helft gekomen en probeert het vandaag af te maken. Ondertussen deed ik m´n best om een car wash te vinden waar de auo schoongemaakt kon worden. Dit kostte even wat moeite, met name omdat er een aantal onbemand waren. Uiteindelijk is het gelukt, maar omdat het zo laat was konden ze alleen nog maar uitzuigen, wassen was er niet meer bij. Ach dan doe ik dat bij Erik thuis nog even. Ik moest die tijd tenslotte toch nog door zien te komen voordat ik Peter op kon halen. Water in overvloed aangezien het continu uit de douchekraan stroomt... We hebben ons rotgezocht naar gereedschap, wellicht een tip Erik... ´s Avonds zijn we nog even uit eten geweest. De bediening was zo snel dat we binnen een uur klaar waren. Hopi bon en hopi dushi swa!! 

Vanacht (4.20 uur locale tijd) zjn we vanaf Bonaire naar Quito gevlogen. Omdat we een tussenstop hadden in Guayaquil en ik (Zwa) aan een stuk door lag te slapen ging de reis enorm snel. Vanaf het vliegveld zijn we meteen met een taxi naar een hotel gereden wat in de reisgids stond en ons wel aansprak. Helaas was het al vol, maar omdat de hele straat vol stond met pensions konden we gelukkig aan de overkant terecht. We besloten vervolgens de buurt te verkennen en een plek op te zoeken om te ontbijten. Tot onze grote bljdschap kwamen we onderweg enorm veel internetcafé´s tegen. Dit betekende dat Peter zijn beoordelingsverslagen af kan werken en ik een blog schrijven. Tot dusver mijn eerste Zuid-Amerika blog, maar er zullen hopelijk nog vele volgen.  

I just got back from Buenos Aires and I simply wanted to share the wonderful experience I had by visitng the "Paris of the South".- Everything nice you hear about this unique city is true and my experience couldn´t have been nearly this wonderful If had not contacted the 2Portenios and join their activities. These two guys offer a superb service giving tourists a unioque point of view, making you feel comfortable all the time and safe. I went there alone and came back with 2 friends for life! Thank you.

6 August:
Caught the bus this morning to visit the Minas do Passagem, now a tourist venue showing the insides of an old gold mine that operated from 1719 to 1985!  We took a little cable car 350m into the mine until we were about 120m underground and then had a guided tour of a few of the tunnels.  The guide spoke English, but not an awful lot of information was given, apart that about 35 tonnes of gold were taken out of here during the mine´s life.  There is a small shrine to Santa Barbara, the patron saint of people with dangerous occupations, and we saw a small part of the big underground lake - the water is incredibly clear and you can cave-dive here if you´re so inclined.  From here we took another bus to Mariana, another colonial gold town with scenic cobbled streets and churches on almost every corner.  We had a look inside the Catedral Basilica da Se to see the 1701 German organ which has been restored recently, and the ornate decoration of the church itself.  Then wandered around the streets and plazas, as the places we wanted to visit seemed to be closed. 

Headed back to Ouro Preto for lunch, and then went down to the Matriz de NS do Pilar, with its extremely ornate interior - it is apparently the 2nd most opulent church in Brazil, after Salvador).  There is a lot of gold, silver and scroll work, plus incredible bird chandelier holders that stick out from the walls and hold the chandelier chains in their beaks.  The crypt houses a display of over 430kg of gold and silver religious pieces, and the hair on the image of Jesus in the church is real.  Climbed back up the hill to visit the Casa dos Contos, built in the late 1700s for a wealthy local who eventually lost it to the government for non-payment of taxes and debts.  Some of the Inconfidencia rebels were imprisoned here before their trials.  The basement slave quarters house a collection of whips, chains, manacles, stirrups, crockery and even a couple of vicious looking man traps used on escaping slaves - quite sobering as slavery was only abolished in brazil in 1888.  The upstairs rooms have collections of books, documents, coins and banknotes in honour of the former use of the house as a mint.  THere is also lots of explanation about the restoration of the building, which discovered many previously unknown wall and ceiling paintings, along with hidden niches, arches etc..  Last stop today was the Municipal Theatre, the oldest still-operating theatre in SOuth America.  It was built in 1769 and has 3 levels of seating, none of which looks very comfortable!  Also has some interesting decoration inside, but getting quite faded.

7 August:
Last day in OUro Preto before catching the night bus to Sao Paulo.  Very interesting visit to the Museo Oratorio, a large collection of hand-made oratories (little shrines of devotion) dating from as far back as the 17th century.  They ranged in size from tiny little necklaces to massive chest oratories that acted as mini-chapels in remote areas.  There is even one carved out of an ostrich egg.  Oratories were carried by many of the early exploreres of Brazil, providing them with blessings and protection as they went along their dangerous path.
After lunch and a drink we visited the Museo Guignard, a small museum devoted to the works of the famous Brazilian artist Guignard.  Luckily there were some books around explaining his life and works, and the very helpful guide managed to get across most of what we needed to know by using very simple Portuguese!  We spent the rest of the day in the internet cafe, sipping coffees on the plaza and having an early dinner before catching the 6.30pm bus to our next stop.

4 August:
Spent most of today travelling.  Tim dropped us at the airport at 8am for our 9am flight with Varig to Belo Horizonte, which ended up leaving at 10.30am after changing gates about 4 times (evidently fairly normal service for Varig!).  Once in BH, we caught a bus from the airport to the central bus station (very easy to find, just walked straight out of the plane terminal, across the car park to the bus), then had to wait an hour for a new bus to Ouro Preto.  The trip to Ouro Preto is fairly hilly, but that doesn´t slow the drivers down, so quite hairy at times.  Arrived in Ouro Preto at 3pm and checked into our pousada - on a VERY steep street but very central, and everything here is steep.  Not suitable for people with walking issues.  Had a wander around the town, which looks very scenic, and had dinner in a nice little restaurant/bar on the main plaza.  A musician was singing and playing guitar, so very pleasant and induced us to stay for almost 3 hours!

5 August:
LOTS of walking today, up and down some of the steepest town streets we´ve come across.  And as they´re cobblestones, it is quite hard on your feet and legs (but looks lovely).  First stop was the St Francis of Assisi Church to see the carvings by Aleijadinho - he did the whole exterior.  The interior paintings are quite ornate, and everything is done directly onto the bare boards on the walls and ceilings - the boards were not plastered over so gives a very interesting texture with seams running through everything.  Then walked downhill to Nossa Senhora da Conceicao, designed by Aleijadinho´s father and built between 1727 and 1770.  Attached to the church is the Museo Aleijadinho, with a fascinating collection of religious art, sculptures, church items etc connected to or of the era of Aleijadinho.  There are excellent English translations of the information, so very interesting.  From here we walked down a little and then up a LOT to the church of Santa Efigenia do Pretos, apparently a fascinating church as it was built by and for slaves, but when we arrived a local man told us it was closed for a year for renovations!  Continued a little further to the Chapel of Padre Faria, a small church in honour of one of the bandeirantes who founded Brazil.  It is the oldest chapel here and has a triple-branched papal cross in the forecourt.  The bells here apparently rang for the rebel leader Tiradentes, when his executed body was taken to Rio in 1750.
After a very long walk back to the centre of town, we looked around the soapstone market and bought a cute set of carved armadillos (or tatu, as they´re called here).  Also checked out a few jewellery shops, until finally settling on a lovely pair of aquamarine earrings to match Melissa´s engagement ring (thanks, Noel!).  After lunch, and just as the rain started down, we went to the Museu da Inconfidencia.  The museum building is huge, and used to be  jail, but now houses a fantastic collection relating to the Inconfidencia (the failed uprising against the Portuguese regarded as the beginning of Brazil´s fight for independence) - the bodies of Tiradentes and the twelve most important rebels have been brought here and placed into a mausoleum, along with an empty tomb for all of those who are unknown.  There are two floors of exhibits including art, furniture, silverware, religious items, clothing, documents and almost anything else relating to the time.  Everything is translated into English, and the presentation is superb.
From here we ran across the plaza in the rain to the Museum of Mines to have a look at their collection of fossils, gemstones, rocks and mining equipment.  The collection of gems and minerals is extensive, and you should definitely check out the display of fake gemstones before buying anything in the street outside!  Nothing here is in English so no explanation for us.  Dinner tonight in town again at another venue featuring man and guitar - it seems to be pretty standard here, and they all add a cover charge to pay for it.

2 August:
Had a most enjoyable day today - went to a BBQ at the home of a British diplomat posted here (he and his family invited Tim, but kindly allowed us to tag along).  Lovely food, lovely wine and great company, spent a terrific afternoon with people from the UK, Canada, Brasil and France.  Saw some interesting birds in the garden, and a few more of the marmosets - they´re moving in everywhere!

3 August:
Ended up doing very little today, as we confused our sight-seeing time - the things we thought were open in the afternoon were open i nthe morning, so missed out.  Chilled out for the last time at Tim´s lovely place, then enjoyed our last home-cooked meal for 2 1/2 months!

31 July:
Had a very lazy day at home today, then a lovely Italian meal out with Tim in the evening.

1 August:
Our 2nd last day of proper sight-seeing today.  Tim dropped us off near his work and we made our way to the Dom Bosco Sanctuary, another very modernistic religious building.  It is a large rectangular concrete box, with the walls covered in Murano glass tiles of 12 different shades of blue to represent a starry sky.  Must say it looks quite spectacular as the sun shines through into the interior, and reflects off the huge crystal chandelier in the centre of the room, which weighs 2 1/2 tonnes.  The church was designed by Carlos Alberto Neves and opened in 1970.  There are 80 columns in Gothic style, 16 metres high each and the doors feature bronze religious designs.  The church is very peaceful and was being used by people praying while we were there, so certainly not just a display piece.
We then caught the subway system out onto the south 'wing tip' of the Pilot Plan to visit the Temple of Good Will, created by the Legion of Good Will in 1989 as a symbol of universal solidarity.  A massive 49 pound crystal sits atop the temple, one of the largest pure crystal pieces in the world.  There seem to be a lot of unusual religious groups operating in Brazil, but this one seems to be less whacky than most - it's aim seems to be just bringing together most of the religions of the world in 'ecumenical fraternity'.  There are various rooms and halls for meditation and prayer, plus an art gallery, water fountain and the mausoleum of the founder of the group right in the centre.  Many communities from around the world have donated interesting and quite good quality art work and religious artefacts, so plenty to look at while you're here.  We were actually surprised at how interesting we found the site, thought it would be just a quick visit and off again, but we spent a good hour wandering around.  The staff were very helpful and when the greeter realised we didn't understand much Portuguese she went and found us a brochure in English.  Apparently the Temple of Good Will fulfills a prophecy by Dom Bosco forecasting that Brasilia would become the world centre point of spirituality, so there you go!
We then caught a bus back along the W3 road to the centre to visit the TV Tower.  We caught the lift to the top for a great view over the city, which showed us just how much traffic this city actually has!  At the base of the tower is a market selling the usual tourist tat, along with a number of restaurants.  We refreshed ourselves with a cold coconut and sugar cane drink, giving us the energy to walk down to the bus station and come home.  We were extremely impressed to find a a bus-driver who actually knew how to drive a bus without attemping to kill all his passengers - this one drove carefully and sensibly, as opposed to the norm where they fly around corners at top speed, thinking they're still in their sports cars and forgetting there are 50 or so people behind them hanging on for dear life!!

DAY 6
(ANOTHER BEAUTIFUL AND PERFECT DAY IN PARADISE)

The oystercatchers are a group of waders; they form the family Haematopodidae, which has a single genus, Haematopus. They are large obvious and noisy plover-like birds, with strong bills used for smashing or prying open molluscs.

In some species, the bill shape varies according to the diet. Those birds with blade-like bill tips pry open or smash mollusc shells, and those with pointed bill tips tend to probe for annelid worms.

They are found on coasts worldwide apart from the Polar Regions. They are all-black, black and white or brown and white in appearance.

The American Oystercatcher (Haematopus palliatus) is a distinctive shorebird found up and down the eastern coast of North America, the Gulf of Mexico and the western coast of South America. They are a common sight in Galápagos, where they can be seen on the coast poking around tidal pools and along rocky shores. Some ornithologists consider the Galápagos American Oystercatcher to be an endemic subspecies, known as Haematopus palliatus Galapagensis.

The American Oystercatcher is easily identified by its red-rimmed eyes, black head, white body, greyish-black wings and white legs. Its most distinctive feature, however, is certainly its long, thick, bright orange beak which looks from afar like a large plastic drinking straw.

As you might imagine, the preferred food of the American Oystercatcher is shellfish. Using its sturdy beak, an American Oystercatcher can pry apart an oyster, clam or mussel. It then snips the muscle that holds the shells together and eats the oyster at its leisure. Their long beak allows them to poke into small nooks in lava-formed tidal pools that are too deep for other predators.

American Oystercatchers are shy and will dart or fly away if closely approached.  

The Galápagos tortoise (or Galápagos giant tortoise), is the largest living tortoise, endemic to nine islands of the Galápagos archipelago. Adults of large subspecies can weigh over 300 kilograms (660lb) and measure 1.2 meters (4 ft) long. Although the maximum life expectancy of a wild tortoise is unknown, the average life expectancy is estimated to be 150-200 years.

Appearance

The Galápagos tortoises have very large shells (carapace) made of bone which is an integral part of the skeleton. The bony plates of the shell are fused with the ribs and other bones to form a rigid protective structure. When a tortoise feels threatened it can withdraw its head, neck and forelimbs into its shell for protection, presenting a thick shield to a would-be predator. The legs have hard scales that provide an effective armour when withdrawn.

The scutes of the carapace are not coincident with the underlying bony plates and grow at their outer edges. Tortoises thus keep their characteristic scute pattern throughout life. These do have annual growth bands but are not useful for telling the age as the outer layers are rubbed off in the normal wear and tear of living.

The shape of the carapace and other physical features correspond to the habitat of each of the 13 subspecies. Larger islands with more wet highlands such as Santa Cruz and Isabela (where the Alcedo Volcano is found) with lush vegetation near the ground have tortoises with 'dome-back' shells; these animals have restricted upward head movement due to shorter necks, and tend to have shorter limbs as well. These are the heaviest and largest of the subspecies.

Smaller, drier islands such as Española and Pinta are inhabited by tortoises with 'saddle-back' shells comprising a carapace elevated above the neck and flared or reverted above the hind feet, and longer, thinner limbs. This appears to allow them to browse taller vegetation. On the drier islands with tortoise populations, the Galápagos Opuntia cactus (a major source of their water) has evolved a more tree-like and taller form, giving evidence of an evolutionary arms race between progressively taller tortoises and correspondingly taller cacti. Saddleback tortoises tend to be smaller (females average 27 kg / 60 lb, males 54 kg / 119 lb) in size than their domeback counterparts.

In all subspecies, males have a concave undershell, which facilitates mating. The male is also always larger than the female. Shells are not either saddleback or domeback; they can also be of intermediate type with some characteristics of both the extreme types. The Sierra Negra volcano population that inhabits southern Isabela Island is notable for the flat, so-called "tabletop" shells, differing from both the domebacks and saddlebacks. There is little variation in the dull-brown colour of the shell or scales between populations.

Behavior

The tortoises are herbivorous animals with a diet consisting of cactus, grasses, leaves, vines, and fruit. Fresh young grass in particular is the favourite food of the tortoises, and others are the poison apple (Hippomane mancinella), which is highly poisonous to humans, the endemic guava (Psidium galapageium), the water fern (Azolla microphylla), and the bromeliad (Tillandsia insularis). Tortoises studied in the Santa Cruz tortoise reserve ate well over fifty different plant species. (ref Linda Cayot (1981)) In the drier areas, fallen Opuntia cactus pads and fruits are an important element in the diet of tortoises. Galapagos tortoises eat a large quantity of food when it is available at the expense of incomplete digestion.

By acquiring most of their moisture from the dew and sap in vegetation (particularly the Opuntia cactus), they can go for long periods without actually drinking. They can also survive for long periods of time being forcefully deprived of all liquids, by breaking down their body fat to produce water.

The tortoises are slow-moving reptiles with an average long-distance walking speed of 0.3 km/h (0.18 mph). However, although feeding giant tortoises move about slowly, browsing with no apparent direction, if they have a purpose, such as moving to water or nesting grounds, they can move with surprising speed and determination given their size. Marked individuals have been reported to have traveled 8 miles (13 km) in 2 to 3 days.

On the wetter islands, the tortoises migrate down the gentle mountain slopes after the rainy season to feed on the grass-covered plains and they climb back to feed on grasses of the mountain meadows in the dry season (the increased precipitation at that altitude keeps the grasses watered). On these islands, the tortoises appear to be gregarious, often found in large 'herds'.

Being cold-blooded, the tortoises bask for two hours after dawn, absorbing the energy through their shells, then becoming active for 8-9 hours a day. They may sleep for about sixteen hours in a mud wallow or pool or a 'pallet' (snug depressions in soft ground or dense brush) which probably help conserve heat and may aid digestion. On Alcedo Volcano, where there is a large population, repeated use of the same sites has resulted in the formation of small sandy pits.

Although capable of withstanding drought, tortoises seem to enjoy drinking and wallowing in water. When the tortoise arrives at a spring, seemingly ignoring any spectators, it puts its head in the water above its eyes, and swallows many mouthfuls, at the rate of about ten in a minute. On Alcedo Volcano in the wet season, large numbers of tortoises can be found partially submerged in rain-formed pools or even the dew ponds formed by garua-moisture dripping off trees. These pools tend to be churned up into mud baths. This may be both a thermoregulatory response and a protection from parasites such as mosquitoes and ticks

Tortoises have a classic example of a mutualistic symbiotic relationship with some species of Galápagos finch. The finch hops in front of the tortoise to show that it is ready and the tortoise then raises itself up high on its legs and stretches out its neck so that the bird can reach ticks on its skin, thus freeing the tortoise from harmful parasites and providing the finch with an easy meal. Other birds, including Galápagos Hawk and flycatchers, often use tortoises as observation posts from which to sight their prey.

Reproduction and development

Mating occurs at any time of the year although it does have seasonal peaks, usually between January and August. When two mature males meet in the mating season, they will rise up on their legs and stretch up their necks to assess dominance. The shorter tortoise will back off leaving the taller, larger tortoise to mate with the female. In groups of tortoises from mixed island populations, saddleback males have an advantage over domebacks. Frustrated non-dominant males have been observed attempting to mate with other males and boulders.

The male tortoise bellows loudly and bobs his head to attract a female. The male then rams the female with the front of its shell and nips her exposed legs until she draws them in, immobilizing her. Mating may last for several hours and the males may "roar" hoarsely. Males have a concave base to their shell and mount the females from behind. It brings its tail which houses the penis into the female's cloaca.

After mating (between June and December), the females journey several kilometres to reach nesting areas of dry, sandy ground (often near the coast). Nest digging is an elaborate task and takes several hours sometimes spread out over several days. It is carried out blindly using only the hind legs to dig a one foot (30 cm) deep hole, in which it lays two to sixteen hard-shelled eggs the size of tennis balls (the number varies with population). The female makes a muddy plug for the nest hole out of soil mixed with urine and leaves the eggs to incubate.

The young emerge from the nest 120 to 140 days later (between December and April) and may weigh only 80 grams (2.8 oz) and measure 6 centimetres (2.4 in) (De Vries 1984). Temperature plays a role in the sex of the hatchling: if the nest temperature is low, more males will hatch; if it is high, more females will hatch. When the young tortoises emerge from their shells, they must dig their way to the surface, which can take up to one month. Hawks are probably the only native predator of the tortoise hatchlings.

Sex can be determined when the tortoise is 15 years old, and sexual maturity is reached at 20 to 25 years old. The tortoises grow slowly for about 40 years until they reach their full size.

Distribution

The Galápagos tortoise is found on the Galápagos Islands west of Ecuador in South America. The shape of the carapace of some subspecies of the tortoises reminded the Spanish explorers of a kind of saddle they called a "galápago," and for these saddle-shaped tortoises they named the archipelago. As many as 250,000 tortoises inhabited the islands when they were discovered. Today only about 15,000 are left (according to estimates by the Charles Darwin Foundation and Galapagos National Park Service), mainly due to harvest by whalers and pirates that killed them for food during the 18th and 19th centuries. Turned on their backs so they could not move, the Galápagos tortoise could survive for months without food or water, making them a good source of fresh meat on a whaling ship (before refrigeration). Their diluted urine could also be used as drinking water. In addition, non-native species such as goats were introduced on some islands resulting in destruction of the vegetation that provides the tortoises' diet; the resulting habitat loss further diminished the tortoise population.

Subspecies

There were probably thirteen subspecies of Geochelone nigra in the Galápagos Islands, although some recognise fifteen subspecies. Now only eleven subspecies remain, five on Isabela Island, and the other six on Santiago, Santa Cruz, San Cristóbal, Pinzón, Española and Pinta. The Pinta subspecies is likely due to become extinct as only one single male, known as Lonesome George, is known to be alive (though the possibility of other individuals remaining cannot be completely discounted).

Lonesome George is the rarest creature in the world. He is the last known individual of the Pinta Island Tortoise, subspecies Geochelone nigra abingdonii, one of 13 subspecies of Galápagos tortoise native to the Galápagos Islands.

George was first seen on the island of Pinta on 1 December 1971 by American snail biologist Joseph Vagvolgyi and subsequently tracked down by goat hunters in March 1972. It's thought he was named after the character played by American actor George Gobel. Relocated to the Charles Darwin Research Station, George was penned with two females of a different subspecies, Geochelone nigra becki from Wolf Island, in the hope that his genotype would be retained in the resulting progeny. Unfortunately, these attempts have not been successful to date.

George is estimated to be 60-90 years of age, and is in good health. A prolonged effort to exterminate goats introduced to George's island is now complete and the vegetation of the island is starting to return to what it once was.

In May 2007, analysis of genomic microsatellites suggested that other individuals of Geochelone nigra abingdoni may still exist. Researchers have identified one tortoise from the neighboring Galápagos island of Isabela which has half his genes in common with George's subspecies. This animal must be a first generation hybrid between the subspecies of the islands Isabela and Pinta. It is possible that a pure Pinta tortoise lives among the 2000 tortoises on Isabela.

The previous oldest known living specimen was a giant Galápagos tortoise named Harriet who lived at the Australia Zoo at Beerwah, Queensland, Australia until her death in 2006. Her estimated date of birth is 1830, and was believed to be the oldest living animal in the world after the death of Adwaitya, an Aldabra Giant Tortoise that lived in the Kolkata zoo in India.

The Charles Darwin Research Station (CDRS) is a biological research station operated by the Charles Darwin Foundation. It is located in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island in the Galapagos Islands, with satellite offices on Isabela and San Cristóbal islands.

Background

In Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Ecuadorian and foreign scientists work constantly on research and projects for the conservation of reptiles, birds and plants. The Charles Darwin Research Station, founded in 1959, has a Natural History Interpretation Centre and carries out educational projects in support of the Galapagos National Park Service. The Park has the following development programmes: conservation of natural resources, management of flora and fauna, sustainable use of resources. Others are related to environmental education, marine resources, agricultural development, monitoring and vigilance. Their aim is to conserve this natural habitat and allow tourists to appreciate all these unique species.

Objectives and work

The objectives of the CDRS is to conduct scientific research and environmental education for conservation. The Station has a team of over a hundred scientists, educators, volunteers, research students and support staff from all over the world.

Scientific research and monitoring projects are conducted at the CDRS in conjunction and cooperation its chief partner, the Galapagos National Park Service (GNPS), which functions as the principal government authority in charge of conservation and natural resource issues in the Galapagos.

The work of the CDRS has as its main objectives:

    * To promote, facilitate, design, and implement the scientific investigation necessary for the understanding of biological principles, better understanding of ecosystems, and adequate management of the islands’ natural resources.

    * To advise the Ecuadorian authorities on the subject of conservation and management of natural resources in the Galapagos Islands.

    * To collaborate with Ecuadorian institutions on the implementation of programs involved in scientific investigation and education on the islands.

    * To contribute to the development of scientific and technical personnel from Ecuador who are specialized in natural sciences and natural resource management.

    * To contribute and collaborate on educational programs related to the conservation of the islands.

    * To compile the results of the scientific investigations and the other activities of the organization and to disseminate this information regionally, nationally, and internationally.

In 2002, the Station was awarded the International Cosmos Prize.

Puerto Ayora is a town in central Galápagos, Ecuador. Located on the southern shore of Santa Cruz Island, and it is the seat of Santa Cruz Canton. Named after Isidro Ayora, an Ecuadorian president. The town is sometimes mistakenly referred to as Santa Cruz

Puerto Ayora is the most populated town in the Galapagos Islands, with more than 10,000 inhabitants. For many people Santa Cruz may be the only inhabited island they visit while in Galapagos. It has the best developed infrastructure in the archipelago. The largest of the two banks (Banco del Pacifico) in Galapagos is located here. A variety of schools, hotels, restaurants, clothing stores, hardware stores, grocery stores, marine stores tourist shops and night clubs here. It is the best place in Galapagos for communicating with the outside world via numerous cybercafes with Internet access or phone offices where you are able to call anywhere in the world. Puerto Ayora emergency medical facilities include a new hospital opened in 2006 and the islands only hyperbaric chamber.

Home to both the Darwin Foundation and the Galapagos National Park, it is headquarters of Galapagos conservation efforts. Most visitors to the Galapagos will have a scheduled visit to Puerto Ayora in order to visit the Charles Darwin Research Station to learn about the history of the islands and the future conservation.

Puerto Ayora has a privileged location, along the shores of Academy Bay. During most of the year, it receives a refreshing breeze which gives the town wonderful weather. Temperatures vary year round between 18 and 29 degrees. The months of the hot season (December to May) make Puerto Ayora a tropical paradise.

Academy Bay located in front of Puerto Ayora is a busy harbor. Normally full of boats cruising the islands, passing private yachts and local fisherman boats. This bay is a good location to spot brown pelicans, golden rays, marine iguanas, herons, lava gulls, frigate birds, Galapagos sea lions, and large numbers of blue-footed boobies, which fish by spectacular plunge diving.

Transportation

Flights from continental Ecuador fly into either San Cristobal or to Baltra Island just off the north end of Santa Cruz. Those airlines are AeroGal & TAME

There are also daily speed boats which take passengers to or from Puerto Ayora and the other inhabited islands of San Cristobal or Isabela.

The hub of most activity in the Galapagos, Puerto Ayora is a charming port town where sea, sun, seabirds and sailboats coexist in happy equilibrium. On the town's outskirts, you will also find the headquarters to the world-renown Charles Darwin Research Station.

Although it is the Galapaganean town most frequented by visitors, the majority of travelers just pass through on their way to see Lonesome George (a 150-year old tortoise; the last of his species) at the Darwin Station. However, those that linger a moment longer, discover that Puerto Ayora has more than geriatric reptiles. In fact, Puerto Ayora is a lively seaside town offering international cuisine, oceanfront hotels, outdoor bars, scuba diving schools and an avenue of boutiques with everything from tie-dyed sarongs to Panama hats.

It's not the dock, it's where the dock is: Puerto Ayora, Galapagos.

Most travelers who know Puerto Ayora won't hesitate to recommend a few post or pre-cruise days in town. The pricey plane fare and park fee certainly warrant a few extra days in paradise: stay a moment longer and relish the Islands' crescent slices of sand, spectacular diving, mountain top vistas and tropical climate. Fortunately TAME, the national airline whisking passengers to and from the mainland, makes it very easy to extend your ticket; Just stop by their centrally located offices on Puerto Ayora's main drag and request a date change at no extra charge.

You may also want to consider a multi-day stay in Puerto Ayora as an excellent alternative to a boat tour. Being land-based allows you to tailor your own days, visit select islands, and choose from an array of outdoor activities, such as kayaking, scuba diving, snorkeling, horseback riding and mountain biking. This option is particularly attractive to families with small children, scuba-enthusiasts with non-diving friends, landlubbers, independent travelers, and those traveling on a shoestring.

Arriving

Puerto Ayora is located on the southern end of Isla Santa Cruz, the second largest island in the archipelago. Most visitors arrive by plane (about 3 hours from Quito) and land in Baltra, a separate island at the northernmost tip of Santa Cruz.

Upon arrival travelers pass through immigration. Visitors must present a passport with an Ecuadorian visa, as well as $100 for the park entrance fee and the island tax. You must pay with traveler's checks or cash; credit cards are not accepted. If you have a censo (the national ID card for foreigners) the total fee is only $25.

Flights depart daily from Quito at 8:30 am with a 30 to 45 minute layover in Guayaquil (a direct flight from Quito is available one day a week). On Wednesdays and Sundays additional flights are often scheduled depending on passenger demand. The fare varies according to the high and low tourism season. Tickets can be purchased through most Quito travel agents or directly from TAME, a commercial airline (prices are about the same).

To make it easy for those on the web, see the complete Galapagos trip planner, GalapagosIslands.com.

From Baltra passengers either head directly to a pre-arranged boat, anchored five minutes away from the airport (you will be met by your guide) or to Puerto Ayora, a 45-minute journey.

If you are heading to Puerto Ayora hop on the TAME bus waiting outside the airport -- it is the only option to get to the channel and is of no cost; five minutes later you will reach the ferry which takes passengers across the channel (under a dollar and about five minutes). On the other side, public buses and private cars await passengers for the last leg of the journey to Puerto Ayora (the planes, ferry and buses are scheduled to coincide, so you won't have long to wait). The trip is beautiful; you will pass through the core of Island's lush highlands before descending down to the coast with its cactus forests and sea breezes.

The bus will drop you off in the town center upon which you may be bombarded with offers for boats and hotels. Most of these hawkers are trustworthy islanders despite being a bit aggressive. If you do need help looking for a hotel, boat or diving company, Victor "Poncho" Vaca or Jenni Devine are two people who seems to know the latest scoop on everything in Puerto Ayora (he speaks English, German, and Spanish).

Joining an organized boat tour in Puerto Ayora a day or two before it leaves is always the cheapest way to island hop. Not surprisingly most boats prefer to sell last minute tickets at bargain basement prices than leave berths empty. If you have the time to look and wait for a boat with a last minute berth, this is a great way to save money. However, your service may be below the class that you expected and your once-in-a-lifetime trip may not be the time of your life. Groups with more than five people can often use the power of numbers to negotiate an all-around lower fare for everyone. During the high season (around holidays and the summer) both tactics can be a bit tricky and may leave you stranded without a tour for over week.

Puerto Ayora itself is small and easily navigable, so its straightforward to find your own way around town. The main drag, Charles Darwin, runs east-west along the bay. At the westernmost end of town you will find the Academy Bay port, the main grocery store, hardware store and post office. At the easternmost end of town is the Charles Darwin Research Station. In between you will find most of the town's hotels, bars, shops and the only bank, El Banco del Pacifico.

For more information on flights to the Galapagos Islands, please check out our Domestic Flights page in our Transportation section.

Banking & Money

El Banco del Pacífico is open Monday to Friday 8:00 - 3:30; Saturday 9:30 -12:30. The bank cashes dollars, however expect rates a bit lower than on the mainland. Personal checks are not accepted.

The bank's ATM (money machine) accepts only Cirrus and Mastercard (7 am - 11:30 pm). Unfortunately, the ATM is down more often than the bank would like to admit. If this is the case you can request a cash withdrawl with your Mastercard (but not with a Cirrus card) from a bank teller.

Money transfers are possible, however they take 4 to 7 days. Faster but more expensive is a MoneyGram with American Express. With a MoneyGram you will receive your dinero within hours -- if the phone lines are working. You do not have to be a card holder to use a MoneyGram.

Traveler's checks are widely accepted on the Island, as are US dollars. Credit cards become a bit trickier: Mastercard is commonly accepted while American Express and VISA usually receive shrugs and apologies.

For more information on money and banking in Ecuador and the Galapagos, please visit our Money Matters page.

Communications

Phone

International, national and local calls can be made at Pacifictel after painstakingly waiting in line. A more efficient way of making a call, although more expensive, is at a top-end hotel. Calling cards can be used, however most establishments charge about USD 1 per minute for the call to the Quito operator.

Warning: When making a phone call from the Galapagos patience is more than just a virtue, it is required, as the phone lines here are among the worst in the country.

Fax

Banco Pacifico allows people to send and receive faxes: 25 cents per page to receive; USD 3 to send to mainland/USD 15 to send abroad. They have two numbers. The first (04-2564636) goes to Banco Pacifico in Guayaquil and then to the Galapagos. The second number (04-2562297) goes directly to the Galapagos. Pacifictel offers a similar service at cheaper prices.

E-mail

Electronic communication is still a bit primitive in Puerto Ayora: Only twenty-six people on the entire island have access to one wobbly internet connection! There is talk of an internet cafe opening, but really there are few places that the public can go in and send a message. Jenni Devine offers email and internet services for a few dollars a minute and a smattering offices will let you get on their computers for a price. The Red Mangrove Inn is another option for those that are in dire need of the internet. Expect to wait a good while until the shared connection goes through.

Post

The only post office in town is located across from the supermarket at the port end of town. Prices to mainland Ecuador are the same price as a postcard or letter to North America (USD .50) and international post is at least double that price. If planning to send a postcard to friends back home, better to wait till you are back on the mainland.

Time

Remember to set your watch back an hour -- the Galapagos is one time zone behind the mainland.

For more information on communications in Ecuador, feel free to visit our Communications page.

Medical

Try to avoid bodily damage while on the islands as good medical care is limited. For basic health problems such as cuts, infections and parasites visit English-speaking Dr. Darquea. He reportedly offers the best treatment in town in a clean private environment. His office is a bit inland from the Charles Darwin Station, ask a local for specific directions; tel: 526496. For more complicated injuries go to the Red Cross hospital; for major health problems its best to go immediately to the mainland. If you need to be medi-evacuted the fastest service available is Ecuavia, an air ambulance from Guayaquil. The cost is about USD 2,000.

For dental problems contact Dr. Pino or Dr. Carrion at the hospital.

The pharmacy, Cruz Rojo, just up from the bus stop is the best-stocked pharmacy in town. Do not expect an actual pharmacist behind the counter, as there simply isn't one.

Warning: Divers should be aware that the closest decompression chamber is in Guayaquil.

For more detailed information on medical concerns in Ecuador and the Galapagos, please read our 8-page Health Section.

Shopping

The main grocery store in town is small by mainland standards, but does offer an good array of dried, canned, and boxed goods, as well as basic toiletries, cheeses, bottled water, and a liqueur section. For fresh produce your best bet is the open air market located on the road to the airport (a ten minute walk from town). Some of the produce is grown locally, while much of it is actually brought in by boat from the mainland. For this reason prices are a bit high and the town can run out of the simplest items such as tomatoes, lettuce or watermelon, for over a week. On one recent occasion the Island actually ran out of beer!

If you are in the market to buy souvenirs there is no shortage of boutiques offering Galapagos and Ecuadorian goods. T-shirt shops are ubiquitous, as are shops selling beach paraphernalia. Just outside the Charles Darwin Station is a unique ceramic studio, Galapagos Ceramics, producing whimsical mugs with iguana handles and other imaginative items. There are also a number of jewelry stores selling hand-crafted items from silver, tagua nut and black coral. Tagua nut, also known as vegetable ivory, is a great thing to buy. It is a sustainably harvested nut from a mainland palm that provides income to small communities. Black coral on the other hand is an endangered animal and illegal to sell in any form. The same goes for turtle shells. Please support the conservation of Galapagos wildlife and do not buy these items, as beautiful as they may be.

Hotels

Being an international port, Puerto Ayora has a good selection of hotels. Backpackers on a shoestring can find a basic room across the street from the sea for as little as $6 (single) in the low season and those without budgetary constraints can check into an oceanfront bed and breakfast for around USD 75 single/USD 115 double per night. For a complete listing of recommended hotels in Puerto Ayora, please refer to our Galapagos hotels page.

Where to Eat

Stroll along the main drag, Avenida Charles Darwin, and choose from a variety of open air cafes, restaurants and bars. Seafood and Italian cuisine (especially pizza!) seem to dominate the food scene, however in between you can find sandwiches, empanadas, fruit salads and good coffee.

The little street veering inland across from the bank has a row of outdoor stalls with tables that serve tasty plates of traditional Ecuadorian food. According to the locals, "Williams" serves up the most savory dishes. (Hint: Its best to arrive early and be one of the first served, as dishes are merely rinsed in a bucket of cold water and then re-used.)

All of the establishments listed below are located on the main drag, Avenida Charles Darwin. Most places do not have addresses, so its best to practice your Spanish and ask a local.

Capricho

This open air German-run cafe dishes up tasty treats all day. Come in the morning and start your day with Maria's piping hot pancakes and a glass of fresh juice or stop by later for their yummy potato-chicken salad with toasted rolls (USD 3.50), sandwiches (USD 3), garden salad (USD 2) or plate of homemade spaghetti (USD 4). One or two freshly-baked cakes (USD 1) are also available daily to compliment a mug of coffee. Mono-lingual travelers will appreciate the tri-lingual menu which tells you how to say cheese in German, English and Spanish. While you are waiting for your lunch, play a game of chess or checkers or browse the cafe's book exchange and gift shop.

If you plan to spend the whole day at the beach, no worries --Maria can send you off with a box lunch for USD 4. Capricho is located a couple of minutes west from the entrance to the Charles Darwin Research Station on the main street. Open: around 7 am until 8 pm. Upon request by large groups Capricho will open earlier.

Limón y Café

A typical coastal restaurant/bar in an international port, Limón y Café dishes up tasty seafood dishes and appetizers along with great tunes ranging from Bob Marley to REM. As early as 9 am when the Cafe opens, patrons start clamoring for seafood. Ceviche (a lemon-marinated fish cocktail) is the ultimate chuchaki (hang-over) cure in Ecuador. Along with ceviche, they serve other traditional foods from Esmeraldas (comida negra) such as patacones (fried green bananas) and encocados (seafood or chicken in a coconut marinade). After a hearty meal, stay a moment longer and enjoy a tropical cocktail or expresso. Open 9 am - midnight; Monday - Sunday. Accepts VISA, MC, dollars and travelers checks.

Tambulero's Pub

Located across from Pelican Bay on the main drag, pint-sized Tambulero's Pub has quickly become one of the coolest after dark spots on the Island. As the day settles into night, the locals (and travelers in the know) climb up Tambulero's stairs to get closer to the equatorial stars and a cool pint of brew. Beto, the manager, proudly reminds imbibers that his beer is ecological. Ecological beer? Well, what he means is

that every used bottle gets recycled back on the mainland. If ecological beer is beyond your comprehension just order a tequila body shot, sit back and enjoy the tunes on what will undoubtedly be a warm Galapagos night. Rain dancing, by the way, is popular on wet nights. Open: 8 pm to midnight... or later if the party is still pulsing strong.

Quatro Laternas

One of Puerto Ayora's most popular restaurants, Quatro Laternas not surprisingly dishes up some of the tastiest Italian food in Ecuador. (Silvana, the owner is an authentic import from Italy). Start your dining experience with a caprese salad, garlic bread and a glass of red wine. And then lean back and consider the entrees: pasta and pizza being the house specialties. Heartier diners will appreciate the chicken and steak options. Open for dinner only.

Land-based Exploration

Puerto Ayora is an excellent base in which to explore the islands, by land or by sea. Most of the sport equipment necessary for the activities listed below can be rented. See individual sections for

details.

Beaches

One of the Galapagos' most spectacular beaches, Tortuga Bay, is only a half an hour walk from Puerto Ayora. Although the walk can be a bit grueling under midday sun its worth every sweat drop. Upon arrival you'll immediately see why; at low tide a wide swath of glistening white sand awaits your footprints. Drop your towel here and jump into the surf or follow this sandy crescent to its point to discover a mangroved lagoon with glassy emerald water and bobbing pelicans. One of the best things about Tortuga Bay is that you'll invariably have most of it to yourself. The majority of locals find the walk too arduous and tourists generally do not stick around long enough to make the trek.

If you stay until dusk you can watch the sun set and the sky melt from hues of tropical warmth into the cool colors of night. Don't forget your repellent, since battalions of mosquitoes will definitely make their presence known. If its a clear night the walk down the beach under the velvety black sky, the Southern Cross, and Venus beaming brightly is nothing short of magnificent.

Warning: The first beach has a considerable current and no lifeguard, so swim with caution.

A closer beach to town is located in the Charles Darwin Research Station. Not nearly as dramatic as Tortuga Bay, this little pocket of beige sand is nevertheless popular with the locals and Station personnel. It does have great snorkeling, so bring your fins and mask.

A third medium-sized beach is located at the Hotel Delphin, however it is only reachable by boat. You can hire an aqua-taxi at the main dock which can whisk you over to "el otro lado" in a few miuntes. Once on this side of the bay, you can also walk fifteen minutes to Las Griegas, a magical little split in the earth which fills with refreshingly cool seawater during high tide. The crevice is so deep that intrepid locals climb up the rock wall and jack-knife the crystal-clear water. If you try this always check the water depth first; it varies greatly according to the tides.

Sea Kayaking

Sea Kayaking is a relatively new sport to the islands and has yet to gain mass popularity. Currently the only place to rent a kayak is at the Red Mangrove Inn and they don't even advertise this fact other than to their own guests. For USD 10 an hour non-guests can take one of their four boats out for a paddle. No motors, no crowds; just you, the kayak and the sound of your paddle as it strokes the sea. Undoubtedly, kayaking is one of the most intimate ways to explore the hidden inlets and mangroved bays of Isla Santa Cruz.

Scuba Diving

Declared one of the Seven Wonders of the Underwater World, the Galapagos Islands offers one of the highest levels of endemism in the world, as well as a sea swimming with contradictions: Only here can you swim with sea turtles, manta rays, penguins, tropical reef fish and "friendly" hammerhead sharks in the same water.

The islands feature about 30 dive sites, a combination of which can be accessed on day trips from Puerto Ayora. Divers are accompanied by professional bilingual naturalist guides and dive masters who specialize in Galapagos flora and fauna. Dives with a reputable company average about USD 110 per day (two dives). Reliable PADI dive courses are also available. For diving or dive courses contact Scuba Iguana or Sub-Aqua, the two best dive companies in Puerto Ayora.

For More info on diving in the Enchanted Islands, take a look at GalapagosIslands.com , a complete Galapagos trip planner.

Snorkeling

From Puerto Ayora you can access a number of good snorkeling spots either from land or by boat. The most accessible sites are:

    * The Charles Darwin Research Station's beach

    * Loberia (the small island 15 minutes off shore from Puerto Ayora)

    * Punta Estrada (one of the best local places to see white-tipped sharks, blue footed boobies, marine iguanas and sealions)

    * The underwater barranco (shelf) just off shore from the beach at Hotel Delphin

Snorkeling equipment is available at Neptuno, Scuba Iguana and Sub-Aqua. Rates range from as little as USD 3 up to USD 8 a set per day.

Surfing

The farthest beach at the Charles Darwin Station, Ratonera, has become popular surf turf for the local wave junkies, as have Angermeyer Break and Tortuga Bay. For a full review of surfing in the Galapagos, check-out Surfer Magazine's 1997 article.

For informaiton a list of surf tour providers in Ecuador, please check out our Surf Tours page.

Glass-Bottom Boat

Captain Haro's glass bottom boat is a one of a kind in the Galapagos. His magical boat will take you to a collection of interesting wildlife sites including Naufruagio, Buque Iguana, Isolate Caamano, Punta

Estrada, Las Grietas and Bahia Franklin. See sharks, sealions, colorful reef fish and iguanas feeding on the ocean floor. With 19 years of guiding experience in the Galapagos, Captain Haro also provides you with a few lessons in natural history (in Spanish, English or Italian). Minimum of four people; USD 20 per person. Monday through Sunday. Contact Neptuno Tours or head directly to the port for specific information on departures.

Mountain Biking

Mountain bikes let you explore the back roads of the Santa Cruz Highlands: Peddle across undulating hills rich and green with moss-covered trees, enjoy a hilltop picnic with panoramic views of the surrounding islands, observe free-roaming tortoises, visit local farmers, sample their tropical fruit, and see the island in a way that few visitors do. Contact: Neptuno or the Red Mangrove Inn. Rentals start at USD 10 per day; tours with a guide and/or support vehicle are also available.

For further information on mountain biking and biking tours in Ecuador, check out our Moutain Biking Guide and our Biking Tour Providers page.

Horseback Riding

Galapagos horses are descendants of the purebreds brought to the islands by an American colonist before the Islands were declared a National Park. Over the generations they have lost their purity but gained a toughness that allows them to scamper over the island's rugged volcanic terrain and whisk you off to the island's remotest corners. Contact: Neptuno or Amalca Horseback Tours via channel 22 on the radio or just ask around town. USD 15 per person with four or more people.

For more information on horseback riding in Ecuador and the Galapagos, feel free to visit our Horseback Riding Guide and our Horseback Riding Tours page.

Highland Jeep Tours

Highland jeep tours usually include a walk through lava tunnels, around a sunken crater, and through Scalesia forests (related to sunflowers) and a wild tortoise sanctuary. On a clear day you are assured spectacular views of the sea and neighboring islands. Most tours also include either a picnic, barbecue or lunch at one of the highland restaurants. Contact: the Red Mangrove Inn, Neptuno Tours, or Victor Vaca.

Charles Darwin Research Station

Most organized boat tours and independent travelers stop by the world famous Charles Darwin Research Station to learn about the island's flora and fauna, and local conservation issues. The highlight of the Station is its tortoise breeding program, with 150-year old Lonesome George as its poster tortoise. Poor George is the last of his species and to the chagrin of the Station's biologists, he has no interest in the perky females (of a closely related sub-species) let loose in his pen. The younger tortoises seem to find the Station a perfectly adequate environment for romance, as the Station's repopulation program is continuing strong after five years. Stroll through the Station and see tortoises of all ages starting at two weeks old.

The Educational Center provides a photo exhibit with information in Spanish and English about the Island's unique flora and fauna. Open daily.

There is no entrance fee, yet the Station miraculously manages all that it does on a bare-bones budget. Donations are much needed and always appreciated. Contact the administrative office for more information or Roslyn Cameron at: cdrs@fcdarwin.org.ec

One-Day Island Tours

Puerto Ayora provides the most convenient land-base in the Galapagos for island hopping. There are three boats, the Delphin, Esmeraldas III and Santa Fe, that offer day trips to Florena, Bartoleme, North Seymore and Plazas. Prices range from USD 50 to USD 100 per person per tour. The higher the price tag the more comfortable the boat.

Working & Volunteering

Being a tourism magnet, Puerta Ayora has an array work and volunteer opportunities. Landing a position on-the-spot is not uncommon. Ask around town for the right contact. Below is a typical list of options:

Dive Masters: contact Scuba Iguana or Sub-Aqua

Dive Instructors: same as above

Charles Darwin Station

English Teachers

Translators

Computer Technicians

Restaurants, Bars, and Cafes

The Galápagos tortoise (or Galápagos giant tortoise), is the largest living tortoise, endemic to nine islands of the Galápagos archipelago. Adults of large subspecies can weigh over 300 kilograms (660lb) and measure 1.2 meters (4 ft) long. Although the maximum life expectancy of a wild tortoise is unknown, the average life expectancy is estimated to be 150-200 years.

Appearance

The Galápagos tortoises have very large shells (carapace) made of bone which is an integral part of the skeleton. The bony plates of the shell are fused with the ribs and other bones to form a rigid protective structure. When a tortoise feels threatened it can withdraw its head, neck and forelimbs into its shell for protection, presenting a thick shield to a would-be predator. The legs have hard scales that provide an effective armour when withdrawn.

The scutes of the carapace are not coincident with the underlying bony plates and grow at their outer edges. Tortoises thus keep their characteristic scute pattern throughout life. These do have annual growth bands but are not useful for telling the age as the outer layers are rubbed off in the normal wear and tear of living.

The shape of the carapace and other physical features correspond to the habitat of each of the 13 subspecies. Larger islands with more wet highlands such as Santa Cruz and Isabela (where the Alcedo Volcano is found) with lush vegetation near the ground have tortoises with 'dome-back' shells; these animals have restricted upward head movement due to shorter necks, and tend to have shorter limbs as well. These are the heaviest and largest of the subspecies.

Smaller, drier islands such as Española and Pinta are inhabited by tortoises with 'saddle-back' shells comprising a carapace elevated above the neck and flared or reverted above the hind feet, and longer, thinner limbs. This appears to allow them to browse taller vegetation. On the drier islands with tortoise populations, the Galápagos Opuntia cactus (a major source of their water) has evolved a more tree-like and taller form, giving evidence of an evolutionary arms race between progressively taller tortoises and correspondingly taller cacti. Saddleback tortoises tend to be smaller (females average 27 kg / 60 lb, males 54 kg / 119 lb) in size than their domeback counterparts.

In all subspecies, males have a concave undershell, which facilitates mating. The male is also always larger than the female. Shells are not either saddleback or domeback; they can also be of intermediate type with some characteristics of both the extreme types. The Sierra Negra volcano population that inhabits southern Isabela Island is notable for the flat, so-called "tabletop" shells, differing from both the domebacks and saddlebacks. There is little variation in the dull-brown colour of the shell or scales between populations.

Behavior

The tortoises are herbivorous animals with a diet consisting of cactus, grasses, leaves, vines, and fruit. Fresh young grass in particular is the favourite food of the tortoises, and others are the poison apple (Hippomane mancinella), which is highly poisonous to humans, the endemic guava (Psidium galapageium), the water fern (Azolla microphylla), and the bromeliad (Tillandsia insularis). Tortoises studied in the Santa Cruz tortoise reserve ate well over fifty different plant species. (ref Linda Cayot (1981)) In the drier areas, fallen Opuntia cactus pads and fruits are an important element in the diet of tortoises. Galapagos tortoises eat a large quantity of food when it is available at the expense of incomplete digestion.

By acquiring most of their moisture from the dew and sap in vegetation (particularly the Opuntia cactus), they can go for long periods without actually drinking. They can also survive for long periods of time being forcefully deprived of all liquids, by breaking down their body fat to produce water.

The tortoises are slow-moving reptiles with an average long-distance walking speed of 0.3 km/h (0.18 mph). However, although feeding giant tortoises move about slowly, browsing with no apparent direction, if they have a purpose, such as moving to water or nesting grounds, they can move with surprising speed and determination given their size. Marked individuals have been reported to have traveled 8 miles (13 km) in 2 to 3 days.

On the wetter islands, the tortoises migrate down the gentle mountain slopes after the rainy season to feed on the grass-covered plains and they climb back to feed on grasses of the mountain meadows in the dry season (the increased precipitation at that altitude keeps the grasses watered). On these islands, the tortoises appear to be gregarious, often found in large 'herds'.

Being cold-blooded, the tortoises bask for two hours after dawn, absorbing the energy through their shells, then becoming active for 8-9 hours a day. They may sleep for about sixteen hours in a mud wallow or pool or a 'pallet' (snug depressions in soft ground or dense brush) which probably help conserve heat and may aid digestion. On Alcedo Volcano, where there is a large population, repeated use of the same sites has resulted in the formation of small sandy pits.

Although capable of withstanding drought, tortoises seem to enjoy drinking and wallowing in water. When the tortoise arrives at a spring, seemingly ignoring any spectators, it puts its head in the water above its eyes, and swallows many mouthfuls, at the rate of about ten in a minute. On Alcedo Volcano in the wet season, large numbers of tortoises can be found partially submerged in rain-formed pools or even the dew ponds formed by garua-moisture dripping off trees. These pools tend to be churned up into mud baths. This may be both a thermoregulatory response and a protection from parasites such as mosquitoes and ticks

Tortoises have a classic example of a mutualistic symbiotic relationship with some species of Galápagos finch. The finch hops in front of the tortoise to show that it is ready and the tortoise then raises itself up high on its legs and stretches out its neck so that the bird can reach ticks on its skin, thus freeing the tortoise from harmful parasites and providing the finch with an easy meal. Other birds, including Galápagos Hawk and flycatchers, often use tortoises as observation posts from which to sight their prey.

Reproduction and development

Mating occurs at any time of the year although it does have seasonal peaks, usually between January and August. When two mature males meet in the mating season, they will rise up on their legs and stretch up their necks to assess dominance. The shorter tortoise will back off leaving the taller, larger tortoise to mate with the female. In groups of tortoises from mixed island populations, saddleback males have an advantage over domebacks. Frustrated non-dominant males have been observed attempting to mate with other males and boulders.

The male tortoise bellows loudly and bobs his head to attract a female. The male then rams the female with the front of its shell and nips her exposed legs until she draws them in, immobilizing her. Mating may last for several hours and the males may "roar" hoarsely. Males have a concave base to their shell and mount the females from behind. It brings its tail which houses the penis into the female's cloaca.

After mating (between June and December), the females journey several kilometres to reach nesting areas of dry, sandy ground (often near the coast). Nest digging is an elaborate task and takes several hours sometimes spread out over several days. It is carried out blindly using only the hind legs to dig a one foot (30 cm) deep hole, in which it lays two to sixteen hard-shelled eggs the size of tennis balls (the number varies with population). The female makes a muddy plug for the nest hole out of soil mixed with urine and leaves the eggs to incubate.

The young emerge from the nest 120 to 140 days later (between December and April) and may weigh only 80 grams (2.8 oz) and measure 6 centimetres (2.4 in) (De Vries 1984). Temperature plays a role in the sex of the hatchling: if the nest temperature is low, more males will hatch; if it is high, more females will hatch. When the young tortoises emerge from their shells, they must dig their way to the surface, which can take up to one month. Hawks are probably the only native predator of the tortoise hatchlings.

Sex can be determined when the tortoise is 15 years old, and sexual maturity is reached at 20 to 25 years old. The tortoises grow slowly for about 40 years until they reach their full size.

Distribution

The Galápagos tortoise is found on the Galápagos Islands west of Ecuador in South America. The shape of the carapace of some subspecies of the tortoises reminded the Spanish explorers of a kind of saddle they called a "galápago," and for these saddle-shaped tortoises they named the archipelago. As many as 250,000 tortoises inhabited the islands when they were discovered. Today only about 15,000 are left (according to estimates by the Charles Darwin Foundation and Galapagos National Park Service), mainly due to harvest by whalers and pirates that killed them for food during the 18th and 19th centuries. Turned on their backs so they could not move, the Galápagos tortoise could survive for months without food or water, making them a good source of fresh meat on a whaling ship (before refrigeration). Their diluted urine could also be used as drinking water. In addition, non-native species such as goats were introduced on some islands resulting in destruction of the vegetation that provides the tortoises' diet; the resulting habitat loss further diminished the tortoise population.

Subspecies

There were probably thirteen subspecies of Geochelone nigra in the Galápagos Islands, although some recognise fifteen subspecies. Now only eleven subspecies remain, five on Isabela Island, and the other six on Santiago, Santa Cruz, San Cristóbal, Pinzón, Española and Pinta. The Pinta subspecies is likely due to become extinct as only one single male, known as Lonesome George, is known to be alive (though the possibility of other individuals remaining cannot be completely discounted).

Lonesome George is the rarest creature in the world. He is the last known individual of the Pinta Island Tortoise, subspecies Geochelone nigra abingdonii, one of 13 subspecies of Galápagos tortoise native to the Galápagos Islands.

George was first seen on the island of Pinta on 1 December 1971 by American snail biologist Joseph Vagvolgyi and subsequently tracked down by goat hunters in March 1972. It's thought he was named after the character played by American actor George Gobel. Relocated to the Charles Darwin Research Station, George was penned with two females of a different subspecies, Geochelone nigra becki from Wolf Island, in the hope that his genotype would be retained in the resulting progeny. Unfortunately, these attempts have not been successful to date.

George is estimated to be 60-90 years of age, and is in good health. A prolonged effort to exterminate goats introduced to George's island is now complete and the vegetation of the island is starting to return to what it once was.

In May 2007, analysis of genomic microsatellites suggested that other individuals of Geochelone nigra abingdoni may still exist. Researchers have identified one tortoise from the neighboring Galápagos island of Isabela which has half his genes in common with George's subspecies. This animal must be a first generation hybrid between the subspecies of the islands Isabela and Pinta. It is possible that a pure Pinta tortoise lives among the 2000 tortoises on Isabela.

The previous oldest known living specimen was a giant Galápagos tortoise named Harriet who lived at the Australia Zoo at Beerwah, Queensland, Australia until her death in 2006. Her estimated date of birth is 1830, and was believed to be the oldest living animal in the world after the death of Adwaitya, an Aldabra Giant Tortoise that lived in the Kolkata zoo in India.

The Charles Darwin Research Station (CDRS) is a biological research station operated by the Charles Darwin Foundation. It is located in Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz Island in the Galapagos Islands, with satellite offices on Isabela and San Cristóbal islands.

Background

In Puerto Ayora, Santa Cruz Island, Ecuadorian and foreign scientists work constantly on research and projects for the conservation of reptiles, birds and plants. The Charles Darwin Research Station, founded in 1959, has a Natural History Interpretation Centre and carries out educational projects in support of the Galapagos National Park Service. The Park has the following development programmes: conservation of natural resources, management of flora and fauna, sustainable use of resources. Others are related to environmental education, marine resources, agricultural development, monitoring and vigilance. Their aim is to conserve this natural habitat and allow tourists to appreciate all these unique species.

Objectives and work

The objectives of the CDRS is to conduct scientific research and environmental education for conservation. The Station has a team of over a hundred scientists, educators, volunteers, research students and support staff from all over the world.

Scientific research and monitoring projects are conducted at the CDRS in conjunction and cooperation its chief partner, the Galapagos National Park Service (GNPS), which functions as the principal government authority in charge of conservation and natural resource issues in the Galapagos.

The work of the CDRS has as its main objectives:

    * To promote, facilitate, design, and implement the scientific investigation necessary for the understanding of biological principles, better understanding of ecosystems, and adequate management of the islands’ natural resources.

    * To advise the Ecuadorian authorities on the subject of conservation and management of natural resources in the Galapagos Islands.

    * To collaborate with Ecuadorian institutions on the implementation of programs involved in scientific investigation and education on the islands.

    * To contribute to the development of scientific and technical personnel from Ecuador who are specialized in natural sciences and natural resource management.

    * To contribute and collaborate on educational programs related to the conservation of the islands.

    * To compile the results of the scientific investigations and the other activities of the organization and to disseminate this information regionally, nationally, and internationally.

In 2002, the Station was awarded the International Cosmos Prize.

Puerto Ayora is a town in central Galápagos, Ecuador. Located on the southern shore of Santa Cruz Island, and it is the seat of Santa Cruz Canton. Named after Isidro Ayora, an Ecuadorian president. The town is sometimes mistakenly referred to as Santa Cruz

Puerto Ayora is the most populated town in the Galapagos Islands, with more than 10,000 inhabitants. For many people Santa Cruz may be the only inhabited island they visit while in Galapagos. It has the best developed infrastructure in the archipelago. The largest of the two banks (Banco del Pacifico) in Galapagos is located here. A variety of schools, hotels, restaurants, clothing stores, hardware stores, grocery stores, marine stores tourist shops and night clubs here. It is the best place in Galapagos for communicating with the outside world via numerous cybercafes with Internet access or phone offices where you are able to call anywhere in the world. Puerto Ayora emergency medical facilities include a new hospital opened in 2006 and the islands only hyperbaric chamber.

Home to both the Darwin Foundation and the Galapagos National Park, it is headquarters of Galapagos conservation efforts. Most visitors to the Galapagos will have a scheduled visit to Puerto Ayora in order to visit the Charles Darwin Research Station to learn about the history of the islands and the future conservation.

Puerto Ayora has a privileged location, along the shores of Academy Bay. During most of the year, it receives a refreshing breeze which gives the town wonderful weather. Temperatures vary year round between 18 and 29 degrees. The months of the hot season (December to May) make Puerto Ayora a tropical paradise.

Academy Bay located in front of Puerto Ayora is a busy harbor. Normally full of boats cruising the islands, passing private yachts and local fisherman boats. This bay is a good location to spot brown pelicans, golden rays, marine iguanas, herons, lava gulls, frigate birds, Galapagos sea lions, and large numbers of blue-footed boobies, which fish by spectacular plunge diving.

Transportation

Flights from continental Ecuador fly into either San Cristobal or to Baltra Island just off the north end of Santa Cruz. Those airlines are AeroGal & TAME

There are also daily speed boats which take passengers to or from Puerto Ayora and the other inhabited islands of San Cristobal or Isabela.

The hub of most activity in the Galapagos, Puerto Ayora is a charming port town where sea, sun, seabirds and sailboats coexist in happy equilibrium. On the town's outskirts, you will also find the headquarters to the world-renown Charles Darwin Research Station.

Although it is the Galapaganean town most frequented by visitors, the majority of travelers just pass through on their way to see Lonesome George (a 150-year old tortoise; the last of his species) at the Darwin Station. However, those that linger a moment longer, discover that Puerto Ayora has more than geriatric reptiles. In fact, Puerto Ayora is a lively seaside town offering international cuisine, oceanfront hotels, outdoor bars, scuba diving schools and an avenue of boutiques with everything from tie-dyed sarongs to Panama hats.

It's not the dock, it's where the dock is: Puerto Ayora, Galapagos.

Most travelers who know Puerto Ayora won't hesitate to recommend a few post or pre-cruise days in town. The pricey plane fare and park fee certainly warrant a few extra days in paradise: stay a moment longer and relish the Islands' crescent slices of sand, spectacular diving, mountain top vistas and tropical climate. Fortunately TAME, the national airline whisking passengers to and from the mainland, makes it very easy to extend your ticket; Just stop by their centrally located offices on Puerto Ayora's main drag and request a date change at no extra charge.

You may also want to consider a multi-day stay in Puerto Ayora as an excellent alternative to a boat tour. Being land-based allows you to tailor your own days, visit select islands, and choose from an array of outdoor activities, such as kayaking, scuba diving, snorkeling, horseback riding and mountain biking. This option is particularly attractive to families with small children, scuba-enthusiasts with non-diving friends, landlubbers, independent travelers, and those traveling on a shoestring.

Arriving

Puerto Ayora is located on the southern end of Isla Santa Cruz, the second largest island in the archipelago. Most visitors arrive by plane (about 3 hours from Quito) and land in Baltra, a separate island at the northernmost tip of Santa Cruz.

Upon arrival travelers pass through immigration. Visitors must present a passport with an Ecuadorian visa, as well as $100 for the park entrance fee and the island tax. You must pay with traveler's checks or cash; credit cards are not accepted. If you have a censo (the national ID card for foreigners) the total fee is only $25.

Flights depart daily from Quito at 8:30 am with a 30 to 45 minute layover in Guayaquil (a direct flight from Quito is available one day a week). On Wednesdays and Sundays additional flights are often scheduled depending on passenger demand. The fare varies according to the high and low tourism season. Tickets can be purchased through most Quito travel agents or directly from TAME, a commercial airline (prices are about the same).

To make it easy for those on the web, see the complete Galapagos trip planner, GalapagosIslands.com.

From Baltra passengers either head directly to a pre-arranged boat, anchored five minutes away from the airport (you will be met by your guide) or to Puerto Ayora, a 45-minute journey.

If you are heading to Puerto Ayora hop on the TAME bus waiting outside the airport -- it is the only option to get to the channel and is of no cost; five minutes later you will reach the ferry which takes passengers across the channel (under a dollar and about five minutes). On the other side, public buses and private cars await passengers for the last leg of the journey to Puerto Ayora (the planes, ferry and buses are scheduled to coincide, so you won't have long to wait). The trip is beautiful; you will pass through the core of Island's lush highlands before descending down to the coast with its cactus forests and sea breezes.

The bus will drop you off in the town center upon which you may be bombarded with offers for boats and hotels. Most of these hawkers are trustworthy islanders despite being a bit aggressive. If you do need help looking for a hotel, boat or diving company, Victor "Poncho" Vaca or Jenni Devine are two people who seems to know the latest scoop on everything in Puerto Ayora (he speaks English, German, and Spanish).

Joining an organized boat tour in Puerto Ayora a day or two before it leaves is always the cheapest way to island hop. Not surprisingly most boats prefer to sell last minute tickets at bargain basement prices than leave berths empty. If you have the time to look and wait for a boat with a last minute berth, this is a great way to save money. However, your service may be below the class that you expected and your once-in-a-lifetime trip may not be the time of your life. Groups with more than five people can often use the power of numbers to negotiate an all-around lower fare for everyone. During the high season (around holidays and the summer) both tactics can be a bit tricky and may leave you stranded without a tour for over week.

Puerto Ayora itself is small and easily navigable, so its straightforward to find your own way around town. The main drag, Charles Darwin, runs east-west along the bay. At the westernmost end of town you will find the Academy Bay port, the main grocery store, hardware store and post office. At the easternmost end of town is the Charles Darwin Research Station. In between you will find most of the town's hotels, bars, shops and the only bank, El Banco del Pacifico.

For more information on flights to the Galapagos Islands, please check out our Domestic Flights page in our Transportation section.

Banking & Money

El Banco del Pacífico is open Monday to Friday 8:00 - 3:30; Saturday 9:30 -12:30. The bank cashes dollars, however expect rates a bit lower than on the mainland. Personal checks are not accepted.

The bank's ATM (money machine) accepts only Cirrus and Mastercard (7 am - 11:30 pm). Unfortunately, the ATM is down more often than the bank would like to admit. If this is the case you can request a cash withdrawl with your Mastercard (but not with a Cirrus card) from a bank teller.

Money transfers are possible, however they take 4 to 7 days. Faster but more expensive is a MoneyGram with American Express. With a MoneyGram you will receive your dinero within hours -- if the phone lines are working. You do not have to be a card holder to use a MoneyGram.

Traveler's checks are widely accepted on the Island, as are US dollars. Credit cards become a bit trickier: Mastercard is commonly accepted while American Express and VISA usually receive shrugs and apologies.

For more information on money and banking in Ecuador and the Galapagos, please visit our Money Matters page.

Communications

Phone

International, national and local calls can be made at Pacifictel after painstakingly waiting in line. A more efficient way of making a call, although more expensive, is at a top-end hotel. Calling cards can be used, however most establishments charge about USD 1 per minute for the call to the Quito operator.

Warning: When making a phone call from the Galapagos patience is more than just a virtue, it is required, as the phone lines here are among the worst in the country.

Fax

Banco Pacifico allows people to send and receive faxes: 25 cents per page to receive; USD 3 to send to mainland/USD 15 to send abroad. They have two numbers. The first (04-2564636) goes to Banco Pacifico in Guayaquil and then to the Galapagos. The second number (04-2562297) goes directly to the Galapagos. Pacifictel offers a similar service at cheaper prices.

E-mail

Electronic communication is still a bit primitive in Puerto Ayora: Only twenty-six people on the entire island have access to one wobbly internet connection! There is talk of an internet cafe opening, but really there are few places that the public can go in and send a message. Jenni Devine offers email and internet services for a few dollars a minute and a smattering offices will let you get on their computers for a price. The Red Mangrove Inn is another option for those that are in dire need of the internet. Expect to wait a good while until the shared connection goes through.

Post

The only post office in town is located across from the supermarket at the port end of town. Prices to mainland Ecuador are the same price as a postcard or letter to North America (USD .50) and international post is at least double that price. If planning to send a postcard to friends back home, better to wait till you are back on the mainland.

Time

Remember to set your watch back an hour -- the Galapagos is one time zone behind the mainland.

For more information on communications in Ecuador, feel free to visit our Communications page.

Medical

Try to avoid bodily damage while on the islands as good medical care is limited. For basic health problems such as cuts, infections and parasites visit English-speaking Dr. Darquea. He reportedly offers the best treatment in town in a clean private environment. His office is a bit inland from the Charles Darwin Station, ask a local for specific directions; tel: 526496. For more complicated injuries go to the Red Cross hospital; for major health problems its best to go immediately to the mainland. If you need to be medi-evacuted the fastest service available is Ecuavia, an air ambulance from Guayaquil. The cost is about USD 2,000.

For dental problems contact Dr. Pino or Dr. Carrion at the hospital.

The pharmacy, Cruz Rojo, just up from the bus stop is the best-stocked pharmacy in town. Do not expect an actual pharmacist behind the counter, as there simply isn't one.

Warning: Divers should be aware that the closest decompression chamber is in Guayaquil.

For more detailed information on medical concerns in Ecuador and the Galapagos, please read our 8-page Health Section.

Shopping

The main grocery store in town is small by mainland standards, but does offer an good array of dried, canned, and boxed goods, as well as basic toiletries, cheeses, bottled water, and a liqueur section. For fresh produce your best bet is the open air market located on the road to the airport (a ten minute walk from town). Some of the produce is grown locally, while much of it is actually brought in by boat from the mainland. For this reason prices are a bit high and the town can run out of the simplest items such as tomatoes, lettuce or watermelon, for over a week. On one recent occasion the Island actually ran out of beer!

If you are in the market to buy souvenirs there is no shortage of boutiques offering Galapagos and Ecuadorian goods. T-shirt shops are ubiquitous, as are shops selling beach paraphernalia. Just outside the Charles Darwin Station is a unique ceramic studio, Galapagos Ceramics, producing whimsical mugs with iguana handles and other imaginative items. There are also a number of jewelry stores selling hand-crafted items from silver, tagua nut and black coral. Tagua nut, also known as vegetable ivory, is a great thing to buy. It is a sustainably harvested nut from a mainland palm that provides income to small communities. Black coral on the other hand is an endangered animal and illegal to sell in any form. The same goes for turtle shells. Please support the conservation of Galapagos wildlife and do not buy these items, as beautiful as they may be.

Hotels

Being an international port, Puerto Ayora has a good selection of hotels. Backpackers on a shoestring can find a basic room across the street from the sea for as little as $6 (single) in the low season and those without budgetary constraints can check into an oceanfront bed and breakfast for around USD 75 single/USD 115 double per night. For a complete listing of recommended hotels in Puerto Ayora, please refer to our Galapagos hotels page.

Where to Eat

Stroll along the main drag, Avenida Charles Darwin, and choose from a variety of open air cafes, restaurants and bars. Seafood and Italian cuisine (especially pizza!) seem to dominate the food scene, however in between you can find sandwiches, empanadas, fruit salads and good coffee.

The little street veering inland across from the bank has a row of outdoor stalls with tables that serve tasty plates of traditional Ecuadorian food. According to the locals, "Williams" serves up the most savory dishes. (Hint: Its best to arrive early and be one of the first served, as dishes are merely rinsed in a bucket of cold water and then re-used.)

All of the establishments listed below are located on the main drag, Avenida Charles Darwin. Most places do not have addresses, so its best to practice your Spanish and ask a local.

Capricho

This open air German-run cafe dishes up tasty treats all day. Come in the morning and start your day with Maria's piping hot pancakes and a glass of fresh juice or stop by later for their yummy potato-chicken salad with toasted rolls (USD 3.50), sandwiches (USD 3), garden salad (USD 2) or plate of homemade spaghetti (USD 4). One or two freshly-baked cakes (USD 1) are also available daily to compliment a mug of coffee. Mono-lingual travelers will appreciate the tri-lingual menu which tells you how to say cheese in German, English and Spanish. While you are waiting for your lunch, play a game of chess or checkers or browse the cafe's book exchange and gift shop.

If you plan to spend the whole day at the beach, no worries --Maria can send you off with a box lunch for USD 4. Capricho is located a couple of minutes west from the entrance to the Charles Darwin Research Station on the main street. Open: around 7 am until 8 pm. Upon request by large groups Capricho will open earlier.

Limón y Café

A typical coastal restaurant/bar in an international port, Limón y Café dishes up tasty seafood dishes and appetizers along with great tunes ranging from Bob Marley to REM. As early as 9 am when the Cafe opens, patrons start clamoring for seafood. Ceviche (a lemon-marinated fish cocktail) is the ultimate chuchaki (hang-over) cure in Ecuador. Along with ceviche, they serve other traditional foods from Esmeraldas (comida negra) such as patacones (fried green bananas) and encocados (seafood or chicken in a coconut marinade). After a hearty meal, stay a moment longer and enjoy a tropical cocktail or expresso. Open 9 am - midnight; Monday - Sunday. Accepts VISA, MC, dollars and travelers checks.

Tambulero's Pub

Located across from Pelican Bay on the main drag, pint-sized Tambulero's Pub has quickly become one of the coolest after dark spots on the Island. As the day settles into night, the locals (and travelers in the know) climb up Tambulero's stairs to get closer to the equatorial stars and a cool pint of brew. Beto, the manager, proudly reminds imbibers that his beer is ecological. Ecological beer? Well, what he means is

that every used bottle gets recycled back on the mainland. If ecological beer is beyond your comprehension just order a tequila body shot, sit back and enjoy the tunes on what will undoubtedly be a warm Galapagos night. Rain dancing, by the way, is popular on wet nights. Open: 8 pm to midnight... or later if the party is still pulsing strong.

Quatro Laternas

One of Puerto Ayora's most popular restaurants, Quatro Laternas not surprisingly dishes up some of the tastiest Italian food in Ecuador. (Silvana, the owner is an authentic import from Italy). Start your dining experience with a caprese salad, garlic bread and a glass of red wine. And then lean back and consider the entrees: pasta and pizza being the house specialties. Heartier diners will appreciate the chicken and steak options. Open for dinner only.

Land-based Exploration

Puerto Ayora is an excellent base in which to explore the islands, by land or by sea. Most of the sport equipment necessary for the activities listed below can be rented. See individual sections for

details.

Beaches

One of the Galapagos' most spectacular beaches, Tortuga Bay, is only a half an hour walk from Puerto Ayora. Although the walk can be a bit grueling under midday sun its worth every sweat drop. Upon arrival you'll immediately see why; at low tide a wide swath of glistening white sand awaits your footprints. Drop your towel here and jump into the surf or follow this sandy crescent to its point to discover a mangroved lagoon with glassy emerald water and bobbing pelicans. One of the best things about Tortuga Bay is that you'll invariably have most of it to yourself. The majority of locals find the walk too arduous and tourists generally do not stick around long enough to make the trek.

If you stay until dusk you can watch the sun set and the sky melt from hues of tropical warmth into the cool colors of night. Don't forget your repellent, since battalions of mosquitoes will definitely make their presence known. If its a clear night the walk down the beach under the velvety black sky, the Southern Cross, and Venus beaming brightly is nothing short of magnificent.

Warning: The first beach has a considerable current and no lifeguard, so swim with caution.

A closer beach to town is located in the Charles Darwin Research Station. Not nearly as dramatic as Tortuga Bay, this little pocket of beige sand is nevertheless popular with the locals and Station personnel. It does have great snorkeling, so bring your fins and mask.

A third medium-sized beach is located at the Hotel Delphin, however it is only reachable by boat. You can hire an aqua-taxi at the main dock which can whisk you over to "el otro lado" in a few miuntes. Once on this side of the bay, you can also walk fifteen minutes to Las Griegas, a magical little split in the earth which fills with refreshingly cool seawater during high tide. The crevice is so deep that intrepid locals climb up the rock wall and jack-knife the crystal-clear water. If you try this always check the water depth first; it varies greatly according to the tides.

Sea Kayaking

Sea Kayaking is a relatively new sport to the islands and has yet to gain mass popularity. Currently the only place to rent a kayak is at the Red Mangrove Inn and they don't even advertise this fact other than to their own guests. For USD 10 an hour non-guests can take one of their four boats out for a paddle. No motors, no crowds; just you, the kayak and the sound of your paddle as it strokes the sea. Undoubtedly, kayaking is one of the most intimate ways to explore the hidden inlets and mangroved bays of Isla Santa Cruz.

Scuba Diving

Declared one of the Seven Wonders of the Underwater World, the Galapagos Islands offers one of the highest levels of endemism in the world, as well as a sea swimming with contradictions: Only here can you swim with sea turtles, manta rays, penguins, tropical reef fish and "friendly" hammerhead sharks in the same water.

The islands feature about 30 dive sites, a combination of which can be accessed on day trips from Puerto Ayora. Divers are accompanied by professional bilingual naturalist guides and dive masters who specialize in Galapagos flora and fauna. Dives with a reputable company average about USD 110 per day (two dives). Reliable PADI dive courses are also available. For diving or dive courses contact Scuba Iguana or Sub-Aqua, the two best dive companies in Puerto Ayora.

For More info on diving in the Enchanted Islands, take a look at GalapagosIslands.com , a complete Galapagos trip planner.

Snorkeling

From Puerto Ayora you can access a number of good snorkeling spots either from land or by boat. The most accessible sites are:

    * The Charles Darwin Research Station's beach

    * Loberia (the small island 15 minutes off shore from Puerto Ayora)

    * Punta Estrada (one of the best local places to see white-tipped sharks, blue footed boobies, marine iguanas and sealions)

    * The underwater barranco (shelf) just off shore from the beach at Hotel Delphin

Snorkeling equipment is available at Neptuno, Scuba Iguana and Sub-Aqua. Rates range from as little as USD 3 up to USD 8 a set per day.

Surfing

The farthest beach at the Charles Darwin Station, Ratonera, has become popular surf turf for the local wave junkies, as have Angermeyer Break and Tortuga Bay. For a full review of surfing in the Galapagos, check-out Surfer Magazine's 1997 article.

For informaiton a list of surf tour providers in Ecuador, please check out our Surf Tours page.

Glass-Bottom Boat

Captain Haro's glass bottom boat is a one of a kind in the Galapagos. His magical boat will take you to a collection of interesting wildlife sites including Naufruagio, Buque Iguana, Isolate Caamano, Punta

Estrada, Las Grietas and Bahia Franklin. See sharks, sealions, colorful reef fish and iguanas feeding on the ocean floor. With 19 years of guiding experience in the Galapagos, Captain Haro also provides you with a few lessons in natural history (in Spanish, English or Italian). Minimum of four people; USD 20 per person. Monday through Sunday. Contact Neptuno Tours or head directly to the port for specific information on departures.

Mountain Biking

Mountain bikes let you explore the back roads of the Santa Cruz Highlands: Peddle across undulating hills rich and green with moss-covered trees, enjoy a hilltop picnic with panoramic views of the surrounding islands, observe free-roaming tortoises, visit local farmers, sample their tropical fruit, and see the island in a way that few visitors do. Contact: Neptuno or the Red Mangrove Inn. Rentals start at USD 10 per day; tours with a guide and/or support vehicle are also available.

For further information on mountain biking and biking tours in Ecuador, check out our Moutain Biking Guide and our Biking Tour Providers page.

Horseback Riding

Galapagos horses are descendants of the purebreds brought to the islands by an American colonist before the Islands were declared a National Park. Over the generations they have lost their purity but gained a toughness that allows them to scamper over the island's rugged volcanic terrain and whisk you off to the island's remotest corners. Contact: Neptuno or Amalca Horseback Tours via channel 22 on the radio or just ask around town. USD 15 per person with four or more people.

For more information on horseback riding in Ecuador and the Galapagos, feel free to visit our Horseback Riding Guide and our Horseback Riding Tours page.

Highland Jeep Tours

Highland jeep tours usually include a walk through lava tunnels, around a sunken crater, and through Scalesia forests (related to sunflowers) and a wild tortoise sanctuary. On a clear day you are assured spectacular views of the sea and neighboring islands. Most tours also include either a picnic, barbecue or lunch at one of the highland restaurants. Contact: the Red Mangrove Inn, Neptuno Tours, or Victor Vaca.

Charles Darwin Research Station

Most organized boat tours and independent travelers stop by the world famous Charles Darwin Research Station to learn about the island's flora and fauna, and local conservation issues. The highlight of the Station is its tortoise breeding program, with 150-year old Lonesome George as its poster tortoise. Poor George is the last of his species and to the chagrin of the Station's biologists, he has no interest in the perky females (of a closely related sub-species) let loose in his pen. The younger tortoises seem to find the Station a perfectly adequate environment for romance, as the Station's repopulation program is continuing strong after five years. Stroll through the Station and see tortoises of all ages starting at two weeks old.

The Educational Center provides a photo exhibit with information in Spanish and English about the Island's unique flora and fauna. Open daily.

There is no entrance fee, yet the Station miraculously manages all that it does on a bare-bones budget. Donations are much needed and always appreciated. Contact the administrative office for more information or Roslyn Cameron at: cdrs@fcdarwin.org.ec

One-Day Island Tours

Puerto Ayora p