All my husband and I wanted from our short break was some peace and quiet. And that was exactly what we found at Fleur de Felice. We spent a few days in Carcassonne last week and we absolutely loved it. It is a very interesting city with lots of history and places to visit but we thought that it would be nice to stay outside the city to get the peace we both wanted. We were recommended, by some friends, to stay at La Maison Fleur de Felice because they had been there recently and had enjoyed Felicia (the owners) company so much, that they thought her beautiful home and gardens would be exactly what we were looking for. And it was! The room was gorgeous with our own en-suite, the house was beautifully decorated and kept very clean and the food was very good. We even had dinner with Felicia and her partner Gary on one evening, which was a very nice 3 course dinner and wine from the local region. Once we had seen the sights we wanted to see in Carcassonne during the first few days of our visit, we spent the rest of our days relaxing in the beautiful garden which has a gently flowing river running alongside it and enjoying the views of the mountain whilst reading a good book. It was the perfect setting for a restful, romantic break away and we will not only be going back again but will also recommend Fleur de Felice to all our friends and family.

Created in the XVIth century as a scientific project, it is now a botanical garden with over 2000 different species, in the center of Montpellier. It was one of the main botanical garden in Europe for hundreds of years, with exchanges with over 700 other botanical gardens all over the world, in order to exchange e.g. seeds. Not only today is it open to all for the pleasure of the eyes, it is also used as an educational and scientifical tool. The entrance from the garden is from the Boulevard Henri IV. More information, as well as opening hours, on the website http://www.univ-montp1.fr/histoire_et_patrimoine/jardin_des_plantes/

Pick up a friend to see an other friend in Avignon...

Today I decide to visit Le Châteaux de Puilaurens.  It was only a short journey from Fenouillet luckily as it was another hot day.   The Châteaux is perched on a mountain with near sheer drops on all but one of the sides of the castle.  To get to the castle involved a steep wooded walk up the mountain, but the effort was well worth it.  When we reach the castle the views of the unspoilt region were spectacular!  We sat on the ramparts gazing at the view for quite some time regaining our breath after the steep mountain climb.  There were Para gliders setting off from a near by mountain and I looked on in fondness remembering my flying trip at Christmas.    The castle was mainly ruined however there were areas that are still quite intact.  

After seeing the sights at the castle we headed up a near by mountain that was notorious for its good views, it has been dubbed as being ‘the top of the world’ the road took us along winding route up the mountain past a big quarry.  When we reached the top we came to a cross roads and was a little stuck!   Luckily a very helpful French logger came out of no where and gave us directions.  When we got to ‘the top of the world’ the views were amazing, we could see the snow capped peaks of the high Pyrenees, valleys sprawling below us and the planes of the Perpignan and Carcassone stretching into the distance.  Breathtaking…..

Today we set out to discover the sights of the historic city of Carcassonne.   It was the hottest day so far with temperatures reaching the mid to high thirties, and the car journey was painfully hot.   When we reached Carcassonne we headed straight for ‘La Cité médiévale de Carcassonne’, the medieval city in Carcassonne.  The fairytale turrets of the cite looking over the modern city as a constant reminder of the Cities heritage.  We parked in a small car park near the old bridge and meandered our way up through the streets surrounding the citadel.   Every little shop and café seemed to be thronging with tourists of every nationality and I catch threads of conversations in many different languages.   I noticed that the end of the drain pipes have been fitted with pipes ending in the angry head of a snake-like gargoyle for effect.  

When we reach La Cité we enter through the ‘porte narbonnaise’ the main gate, and over the heavy wooden drawbridge.   Through the large entrance between two large opposing towers I can see the lively Cité within.  I decide to stroll around the ramparts first.    After sitting in the shade of one of the large turrets for lunch I feel rejuvenated and decide to head in to the Cité  I enter through one of the smaller gates and wander through the streets lined with themed restaurants, post cards and curio shops all trying to sell the tourists a piece of Carcassone.  Before long I found myself in the square outside St. Nazarius' Basilica, the vast 11^th Century Cathedral.   Entering the Basilica was like joining another world, the heat, noise and cheery atmosphere outside was replaced by a slight chill, soft whispers, clicks from camera’s and the sense of awe.   The stained glass windows were magnificent, streaming in colourful light that danced on the floor and bathed visitors. 

After the cool air in the Basilica the heat out side seemed to have become increasingly more oppressive.  I wandered around the Cité for a little while longer finding various points of interests, small open areas with fountains, shaded grassy patches where people cowered from the wrath of the suns rays for a few brief seconds, and then I found the Châteaux.   I was not able to go into the  Châteaux as I had my families little dog with me, but the building was pretty inspiring from the outside.   It had a long bridge over another moat that surrounded only the Châteaux, tall towers and turrets, with wooded fortifications over some of the walls. 

It was now time to go home; we strolled back through the streets and down the winding roads to the modern city where we had left the car by the river.   I took one last look back at the city as we crossed the bridge and then we headed home.

After a day of resting in the sun, and adjusting to the laid back lifestyle, I decided that it was time I set out to explore the area.  Over the next couple of days I went on beautifull walks down gorges, strolls to reservoirs, cherry picking excursions selecting sweet wild cherries from trees over hanging mountain footpaths and meanders through fields of poppies, long grass and wildflowers. 

Today I decided to conquer the châteaux in the village.   I set off gingerly middle of the afternoon to avoid the mid day heat.  I wandered through the labyrinth of streets in the little village and scambled over the rocks on the mountain to the châteaux it self.  The view from the village does not do it any justice, it must have been a fairly impressive structure in its day, and I try to imagine what it would have been like.   There is an outer wall and inner wall with shear cliffs on 2 sides, giving good protection from intruders.  From the highest point of the ruin it gives 360˚ views of the area.   The châteaux seems to have been build around the mountain itself, with strangely shaped rooms as a result.   Now the ruined walls are scattered with wild flowers and I see 2 deer clambering over the ruins, foraging.  After admiring the ruined châteaux, I scrabble back down the mountain and head for the fort.  The walk to the fort is some what easier despite it being on an outcrop.  There is not much left of the fort, there is a high wall surrounding 3 sides of it, with a large whole in it, half way up.  I can see that this leads to ledge, so I jump up the rocks and onto the ledge.  I sat here for some time gazing over the valley, surveying the area as someone would have done many, many years ago.   The evening drawing closer and engulfing the landscape in a pink glow.  

Ever since I was young I have been fascinated by Castles, and their history.  Little did I realise how much of a treat I would be in for when I went to 'Le Pays Cathare', Cathar Country - with fairytale turrets at La Cité in Carcassone, breathtaking views from Le Châteaux de Puilaurens and small ruined forts on mountain tops– it truly was a castle lover’s paradise.   

As we flew towards perpignan, the sky was clear allowing full view of the patchwork landscape as we approached.  A very different view from what we took off from at stansted airport, the bustling suburbs of London replaced by small clusters of houses surrounded by vineyards, and the murky waters of the river Thames are no match for the shimmering waves of the Mediterranean.   I caught my first glimpse of a Cathar Castle as we banked over The Palace of the Kings of Majorca, its strong defences and pentagon shape, with modern houses creping up to the walls of the citadel.   

Once landing at the small airport I was united with my family and we started our journey up into the mountains where I would be staying for the duration of my holiday.   The rest of the afternoon past in a blur, the exhaustion of the days travelling and the heat of the afternoon sun lulled me into a light sleep.   I awoke at not long before we arrived in the village to find that we had come some considerable distance into the mountains, leaving the hazy planes of Perpignan far behind us.   We wound our way further into the mountain to stop at a tiny village called Fenouillet.   Situated in a small saddle in the mountains between 2 hills, it has a castle spreading over the hill to the right and a fort perched on the outcrop of the hill on the left.    I knew that this would have to be the first castle I conquered.....

I arrived in Perpignan late in the evening after doing one stretch from Basel where I had stayed with my brother.  When I passed Lyon the weather got better and better. It was still pretty warm there and I was driving around to find a small hotel,; I didn’t need anything special because I had booked a good 4 star hotel in Barcelona the following day, I just needed a bed. I found a small hotel with a very cheap rent and a place to park my car 2 km from the city centre, which I didn’t mind. I was not going to visit the city; it was too much of a summer camp for families to me; theme parks everywhere and so on. I found a place to eat; had a good meal and went early to bed afterwards.    

Next day I woke up rather early, I had forgotten to draw the curtains. When I got eyes I didn’t matter at all! The view from the window was fantastic; I had a beautiful morning in front of me and in the distance I could se a mountain of the Pyrenees in front of me and the sun was shining. I could hardly wait to get down to the car and drive on towards the mountains and a place I never had been to before but always wanted; Barcelona.  

Another driving-heavy day. After a very brief look around Perpignan and a lovely very French breakfast of croissants outside a cafe, we set off for Avignon. We were not sure what to visit on the way so I texted Mum for some ideas. She said Carcassonne was worth a visit as a legendary town within the raised walls of a castle. We managed to park the car near the bottom of the walls, then began the walk up, around the walls and into the town. It was gorgeous, all very quaint, historic and French, definitely worth the visit.

After our afternoon in the town-in-a-castle we got back on the road to Avignon. Since these were nights that we were originally meant to spend in Barcelona, we had to spontaneously find somewhere to stay the night (but hey, that's what travelling's all about right?) but we eventually found somewhere, for a decent price for once, on the road between Carcassonne and Avignon. Sure the toilet wouldn't flush properly, the floorboards were more than a little creaky (as was the one double bed) but hey, what you pay for is what you get.

Quite an exciting day in the end!

After the Pont du Gard we headed to Nimes, where we stopped off to look at the Roman amphitheatre and a Roman temple. They're both pretty much intact, and the amphitheatre is particularly impressive. You can climb right to the top of the seating, which is pretty high.

The fun started as we headed out of Nimes towards the Camargue. This was the point at which I inadvertently ran a red light and got pulled over by the police. Oops! It took quite a lot of talking to them before they asked whether I was from the area. As soon as I said that we were from England they changed from being very severe about it all to being very helpful, and giving us directions, which was handy because we were getting a bit lost!

It was getting quite close to sunset so we didn't stop long in the Camargue; just enough to get a bit of a look at the flamingos, and have a bit of a drive around some of the small roads. We didn't really do the place justice; we'll have to go back some day.

With some weird disco lights, they will try to invite you to come in. It was end of March and we were able to try our luck. The entree was nice, with all servets being folded differently. To make it more easy to decide what to eat, the menu was accompanied with a english translation. The food was good (critics: it should have been warmer), but the favours were delicious. The presentation was original. Service was (that's rare in France :)) friendly. As you can see on the photo, we had a good time. However, you can not smoke anymore inside :(

Pont du Gard

The map informs us that to get to Valras Plage we should head towards the town of Béziers and then head south to the coast. We get back onto the A75 and subsequently onto the N9, which takes along side hundreds of vinyards and through some small quaint villages. Once again, things do not run smoothly and before long we find ourselfs lost in the town centre of Béziers. As we entre the town centre we notice a sign pointing out tha Béziers is twinned with Stockport in England. For some reason we find this fact very funny. After 15 or so minutes of going round in circles we backtrack and head toward the A9 Autoroute. This causes a problem as we get stuck in rushhour traffic. As we crawl our way through the melee of cars, we notice a sign for Valras-Plage and head straight for it. This is a relief for Anna, who had been sitting cross legged in the back of the car for the best part of 30 mins. Once onto the Valras-Plage road the traffic eases and we pull into a McDonalds so that Anna can use the faclities. After much debate, we decide not to follow her inside the restaurant for something to eat, instead we choose to plough on to our destination.

The camping guide book we have suggests we go to the Camping Club Lou Village(check out the Aquatic Park section of the site... the animations are scary). The book's direction informed us to head into the town centre and follow signs for the Casino. Once again we get lost and end up on the beach front, surrounded by thousands of cars parked almost completely on the pavement. Heading along the sea front, we finally see a sign for the Casino and head in it's direction. After another 5 mins heading through local housing estates we finally stumble across it. It is situated in an area which contains nothing but campsites. We head to the entrance of Lou Village and check out the tarrif. This place appears around twices the price we paid last night, so we try a different place, Campling le Mediterranee. The prices are reasonable so we agree to stay here. To stay on the campsite we all were fitted with a festival style wristband and the car had a ugly sticker slapped onto the windscreen. We pitched our tent and headed off to explore and have something to eat.

We head down to the sea front and walk along the beach. Everyone except me takes their shoes of and walk in the water, while I keep mine on and have fun dodging the waves. As we walk along Nick decides to count the number of women with no bikini tops on. This keeps him amused all along the beach.

We head up to the prominade in search of restaurants and notice a car rammed with inflatable creatures.

After stopping to look, we continue our hike to the town centre. We arrive and are spoilled for choice as there are hundreds of restaurants, but they all seem to have the same things to offer, and no vegitarian option. We finally choose a restaurant overlooking the sea, even if it has a rather racist and stereotypical statue of a black boy. I order a steak, Nick has turkey, Kerry has something veggie (can't remeber what) and Anna opts for a bucket of mussels. Of course, this is all washed down with some rosé wine.

After a delicious meal we go for a wander around the busy streets and along the sea front. Kerry buys some postcard in a shop (but never sends them home), and Nick is tempted by a large steel Jack Daniels sign. It's then on to the fun-fair where the is a car covered in fridge magnets, some dodgy looking rides, some arcade machines (including a punch bag game flanked by some muscley looking guys just dying to be challenged by someone, just to show how strong they were) and some grabber machines. We have a couple of goes on the grabbers and we head off looking for somewhere to get drunk.

Do the French not drink? We wander for ages in persuit of a bar without luck. We eventually find one opposite the Casino and another fun-fair. It is run by a man who, once again, cannot speak english. We manage to order some large beers and some rosé for Anna and settle in for night of drinking. Anna asks where the toilet is and leaves to use the facilities. On her return, the guy ushers her behind the bar to use the sink to wash her hands. She informs us that the toilet looks like a walk in freezer complete with bizzar fride style handles on the door.

Anna and Kerry decide they're a bit board, so cross the road and try their luck at the grabber machines again. This timethey are successful (because they cheated and nudged the machine), and win a cuddly toy of Spongebob Squarepants. They are a bit overwelmed by the round of applause they recieve from a group of french people standing at the machine beside them.

As we continue drinking and put the world to rights about who would be the members of our ultimate British band, we are soon shocked to find that the guy that running the bar's 8 or 9 year old daughter is helping out in the bar, pouring and serving alcoholic drinks. Around 2am she begins to pack up all of the chairs and tables from the outside seating area. Feeling sorry for her, Anna and Kerry set about helping her pack up, which receives looks of disgust from the other people in the bar. When it comes to leaving, we request our bill and receive a discount for Kerry and Anna's efforts. We pay, leaving a tip for the girl, and make our way on our marathon journey back to the campsite. On our journey home, Nick keeps us entertained with his impersonations of the Kings of Leon, which were amusing, if not rubbish. We arrive back at the tent around 3.30am, have a couple of drinks and then head to bed, as tomorrow is the final push to Benicassim.

We have arrived at one of the walled city in France.. Carcassonne and we visited the Medieval City to experience how it is to be inside the castle. 

We had a great meal at this restaurant. We hadnt booked and were seated on the upper level near the entrance. The downstairs area has a better atmosphere so I will book in future. The manageress recommended a wine from Chateau Grande Moulin which was fantastic.Lamb shank was delicious prepared in a new world style - touches of El Bulli with foams but superb. Fish (cannot remember what it was though) also very good. The staff were very friendly and helpful I look forward to going back. Pic is from the restauarant website.