Hey we are finally in Ica to check how my grandmother house and of course to go to my favorite place in Ica! Huacachina to sand board of course! Maybe I'll see the mermaid in the oasis. LOL

I guess I should have known it before, but now I m certain of it. Life is all about choices: there is no bad or good, because at the end they all making us a bit better or a bit wiser for sure.

I have now been " on the road" for about 2 months, and my eyes have seen so much, more than I could have ever imagined, yet, I´m hungry for more and sometimes i woudl love to give up my sleep to see more, more and more. I know I can´t and I will have to make a choice, and I think so far, I m happy with what I have chosen so far. Maybe is because I did  not know what was behing door number 3, while I was picking door number 1, or peraphs is because I have tried to enjoy what i was doing at the maz, not thinking what else coudl have happened if I was choosing something else..

Now looking back, i can see sometimes, I was really meant to choose that door/path, and sometimes definately not, but on the other hand I dont want to regret what I did, because it only tought me another lesson of life..and made me better for my next choice!

Bag arrived just in the nick of time as we checked out of our hotel - shower, fresh clothes and 1/2 hour late for our meeting with local travel agent.  but first - funny breakfast story!

As we walked into the breakfast room (at our very flash Lima hotel) Dave had a slightly 'uncomfortable' momento... sitting at the tables were very well presented business people, all set for offical business on a monday morning!  Meanwhile, he was looking rather scruffy given that he had the same clothes on that he left NZ in 4 days previously, unshaven, and unshowered waiting for the bag to arrive.  He commented that ... "I feel like I don't belong in my own environment'... lol - a great way to get away from work and really get into holiday mode, no longer a business man... The look on his face - PRICELESS!!

So, we arrived to meet Pocha, our local travel consultant.  A moment of reflection as we worked out weather to trust a stranger.  She was a whizz - almost too good to be true.  Put together an action packed itinery in 5 minutes.  She reassured us she had been helping tourists since 1981 and knew the best people.  She asked for the cash and said she would be back in 30 minutes with all the tickets, including our overnight bus to Nasca to Arequipa.  The one thing we had agreed prior to leaving NZ was that we wounld, under no circumstances take the night bus.  It was too dangerous - we had researched well and knew the stories of armed holdups and robberies.  But this confident stranger reassured us and the Hotel Kamana in Lima gave their guarantee.  So again - the question - "do we trust a stranger in a new country?"  She was either a great find or a very good operator???  So we handed over the cash (a lot) and rushed to the bus station with minutes to spare and assurance that at every point there would be someone to meet us, with a named board, and transfer to our hostel.

Onto the first bus and arrival in Paracas - 5 hours down the coast.  No bus terminal, a dusty spot on the side of the road in a small fishing village.  No man with a sign.  Every other passenger stayed on the bus to go to the next town.  Oh no... then from the crowd ... "David?"  Our man was there to meet us and in charge of our transfer to the hostel ... (see picture). 

Fantastic, good rooms, great food and trust of a stranger worked out so far. 

Early start the next day with many local rosters and horns, dogs and people.  No alarm necessary for our 730am start for the boat trip to Islas Ballestas - known as 'the poor man's Galapagos'.  Cool boat trip and a heap of birds, peguins, pelicans, shags, and some sea lions and crabs to boot.  Then back to the shore and onto our road trip to a vast desert.  The Reserva Nacional de Paracas - the National Park of Paracas.  Dusty, not much there.  No animals to see - apparently they have all gone south.  It only rains for 4 or 5 minutes every 5 years when there is El nino weather pattern here - a long drought!  Great coastal vista and a cruisy afternoon.  Our man Edwardo no see at the end of the bus trip however... so the hotel transfered us from the Santa Maria Hostel in his very cool beach buggy to the next bus journey.

Sitting up the front of the bus on the top story watching the driving was an experience to say the least!  Maybe next time we will pick our seat so we can not see the traffic and the passing manouvers...  Still arrived safe and well in Nascas, an hour late and in the dark - but there he was - our man with a sign with Dave's name on it!  How we have come to treasure those signs.... Another great hostel and dinner out on the town in Nasca.

So this morning we have been our flying over the Nasca Lines - a world heritage site and mystery as to why they exist and why the ancient people made them.  We have our own theories - like many others as we have found out.  Was a very cool flight in a wee six seater cessna plane, with a teenage pilot who had mastered the art of banking left, banking right, talking, pointing out landmarks - all at the same time!  Sue ended up somewhat nauseated for the rest of the day, while Dave had a grin from ear to ear!  Excellent trip and views. 

Spent the rest of the day wandering the town, sorting the next step in the trip, gathering supplies and hanging out.  Nice.

Tonight - the night bus to Arequipa.  Remember, the trip that we agreed that we would not take... onwards.  Please contact Kamana Hotel, Lima to claim on the guarantee if necessary.  Should be fine.

We arrived in Ica after getting the short bus ride from Pisco. In Ica it was just a 10 min cab ride into the surreal tiny desert town of Huachina. It was an amzing place looking like a mirage in the sand. One road connected it with the outide world and the closest town of Ica. After checking in a nice cozy hotel with pool that made up for the adequate room, we took the 5 min walk to the towns centre peice the large lake used by local kids to mess around and small pedlo boats. Around the centre lake just one tier up were deffierent restarants where we ate. The twon was just overlooked by huge sand tunes in every direction. The best way to descibe it being like a bowl with the town being at the bottom. After a nice lunch we headed back to the hotel to spend the afternoon chilling by the pool. In the garden were the pool was situated the hostel also had a crazy monkey they kept as a pet tied to a piece of string. This may explain the reason the thing seemed like it was on speed jumin on anything that came near it. Aswell as the small monkey there were also different tropical brids such as parrots walking around or siiting on the tree. We just took it easy basking in the baking sun. Katrina played with the monkey who seemed to prefer women than guys, while I just as always tryed to get myself some sun. I had to be extra careful though as I had got burnt in Pisco and my forehead was peeling off, very funny if you see the pictures of me. 

The next day we went on a sand buggy tour. This involved being picked up from our hostel then taken a mad ride across the desert in the buggy to the top of one of the dunes. From there we were given sandboards to go down the dunes on. The boards were specifically for the sand being much like a snowbard only smaller. For my first hill i waxed up the board lied on my front and wizzed down the dune. Was so surprised how quick you went, it was just so much fun. The next dune I attempted standing up, this being far tougher than lying on your front. I got about half way down standing befire going head first into the sand hurting slightly getting covered from head to toe in sand. I think we did abot 6 or 7 dunes in total the last one being highest going down what must have been at least 50 mtrs. This one I did lying down as it was easier to get more speed and far safer. After doind the sand boarding we watched the sunset on the dunes then tooke the crazy drive on the dunes back to our hostel. I had so much fun and would definatley reccommend it to anyone.

The next day we cheked out of the hostel but our bus was not until the evening when we were getting a night bus to Cuzco. To kill time throughout the day we had a look around the small town of ica. We just spent town looking around the shops one of our favourite past times. We also just sat in the Plaza de armas (The towns central square) and just watched the world go by.

In the evening we got the night bus to Cuzco. I really loved Huachinna. So unique settings like no where I have been before and the sand boarding is just so much fun, like sledging without the snow   

After getting into Pisco we were greeted then taking to her home by a young girl. ONce at the home we got shown our room and arranged a tour the following day to the Ballestas Islands. We had thought that when the women had arranged for somewhere to stay in Pisco that it would be a hostel bu instead we had been taken to a Family home us being the only ones staying in what I think was the spare room. WE wernt complaining though it was one of the nicest places we had stayed with a large double bed, ensuite bathroom with bath and lots of space. We just spent our first day talking a walk around what was left of Pisco. Pisco had benn hit only 6 months previously by a large earthqyuake and the city was still in ruins. In every direction you could just see piles of rubble where houses had once stood. Was unbelievable the destuction that this Earthquake had done. The only real life we saw although we were staying out of twon was the petral staion and a small make shift shop. Other than that everywhere seemed to be lifeless. Not every building had been distroyed obviously otherwise we would have no where to stay but I would say at least 70 percent of the property was destroyed or affected onn some way. The only food we could find was from the nearby petroal staion who served up a great chicken and chips. 

The next day we went of a tour from the main town which was around a 15 min drive from where were staying to the Ballestas Islands just a short boat ride away. The ballestas islands were described in the lonley planet as a poor mans Galapicos. The islands were obviously tiny in comparison but still were really amazing to sea. The islands seemed overfolwing with sea lions, penguins and many different species of bird. The sea lions were just so noisy especially as we got closer to the sure that they filled, the niose constant by the hundreds of sea lions. We took the boat around the islands and got as close to the sea lions as possible for some great pics.

After visiting the Ballestas islands in the morning we then as part of the tour went to the Paracas reserve just a 10 min drive from town. Not the most beautifull place I had seen but still intersting to go to the small information centre to hear about the conservation programme. Once in the park we were taking to a place where we could swim and have a very overpriced fish meal. I think the purpose of going here was just to help the restuarants to recoup after the earthquake. We headed back and were dropped to our accomadation after a good tour. In the evening wwe went to go and watch the sunset over the sea. The sunsents in Pisco I think were the prettiset I have ever seen, just unbelievable. As the sun went down it just lit the sky completley red, not just a light red like you sometimes sea but a thick dark dark red that was just unreal. From the sunset it was another meal of chicken and chips then off to bed.

In the main town of Pisco the trail of devistation from the earthquake was evn more apparent. The trip from where we stayed i to town there was just block after block of nothing but rubble where houses had stood. In the main town you could see the huge shelter camps made up of metal shetaing. There was sighs that buildings were starting to be constructed again but to try rebuild from that amount of devistation I think will take a good few years if not longer. 

The next day we stolled around the nearby local market. Here were your usual mix of fake clothing, fake glasses, fake dvds all put together in a maze of stalls. Although obviously the town was desperatley poor after the earthquake still the shop owners gave us the same price as the locals. A refreshing thing happened in the market when I bought an item I though the guy had said the price was higher so I put the money in his hand and he actually gave me back and said I had given him to much. The town people seemed to have a sence of proudness and determination that was seen by the hundreds of workers desperatley working to get the town back on its feet again. 

I really enjoyed Pisco, the ballestas islands were really cool, the sun sets were out of this world and although very little going on was amazing to see first hand what a natural disaster like an earthquake can do to a place. 

We left the next day leaving the family we had become quite freindly with specially there tiny sweet dogs. The mother put us on a bus to Huacacchina and bidded farewell.    

Paracas National Reserve

The Paracas National Reserve (340,000 hectares) was established in 1975 and is important for the protection of both bird life on the Paracas Peninsula and marine life in the sea. The Reserve is about 15km south from Pisco (not a particularly attractive place but famous for the white brandy named after the town). The entrance fee to the reserve is about US$2 per person. Places of interest within the Reserve include a visitors' center (free maps available) and an archeological museum (entrance US$1, 09:00-17:00 daily). A short walk down from the museum to the edge of Paracas Bay allows you to see several types of birds including flamingos feeding by the waterside.

The area within the Reserve played an important role in the Peruvian economy during the mid-nineteenth century. Vast quantities of 'guano' (birds' droppings) produced by the seabirds was exported to Europe for use as fertilizer. For many decades this industry was Peru's most important source of revenue.

Islas Ballestas (Ballestas Islands)

These spectacular islands, eroded into many caves and arches, provide shelter for thousands of seabirds and hundreds of sea-lions. Although the islands fall just outside the Paracas National Reserve they are protected by separate legislation. The islands are home to over 150 species of marine bird including the Humboldt penguin, cormorants, boobies and pelicans. Even condors have been known to visit. On the shores can be seen large numbers of sea-lions and in the sea it is possible to encounter dolphins and even whales.

The Ballestas Islands form an important wildlife reserve, with over 160 species of marine birds, including Humboldt penguins, cormorants, boobies, pelicans and, occasionally condors. There is also animal life, including sea lions, seals, dolphins and whales. The islands are off the coast of the Paracas National Reserve, 240 km south of Lima.

Visitors are not allowed onto the islands but views of the wildlife from the boat are usually excellent. The tours also pass the 'Candelabro' - a 50m candelabra-shape traced in the desert hillside overlooking the sea. Their are numerous theories as to its origin (best left to the guides to explain some of them).

Paracas - del 5 a 6 abril.- Aquí faig un altre paradeta abans d'arribar a Lima. La gracia de paracas esta en les illes ballestes i la península de Paracas. Com que ja no tinc massa temps la peninsula la deixo estar (crec que tampoc era cap meravella, es d'aquelles coses que ets un superornitoleg o estudiós dels animals o tampoc i veus el que) pero si que vaig a veure les illes ballestes, diuen que son les galapagos pobres, mmmmm... no sé. Pel camí ens ensenyen un altre dibuix a la sorra, el candelabro, que no acabo d'entendre si té algo que veure amb la cultura paracas i ve a ser com lo de les linies de Nazca o és algo que han fet ara.
Bueno la primera impresió de l'illa t'entra pel nas: és una pudor barreja d'aigua de mar, peix i caca d'ocell, a més aquesta olor la conserves per tot el dia, anant amb la superlanxa a tota velocitat cara al vent i amb l'aigua que t'esquitxa, se't queda l'olor impregnada al cabell i la roba (o almenys és la mania que vaig agafar jo).
Bueno total, que l'illa esta plena d'ocells, sobretot gavines, i guano, como no. També hi havia algun pinguinillo, pelicanos i tambe hi havien lleons arins que eran bastan més actius que no pas els que havia vist a l'atlantic, bueno pot ser van a temporades i ara estaven cuidant als petits i tenien més activitat.
Lo que és el poble no tenia massa res, basicament un passeig ple de restaurants de peix i marisc i després més apartats alguns hotelillos, uns quants és veien així de pasta. També encara quedaven restes del mal que va fer el terratremol, bueno el maremoto que hi va haver l'agost del 2007, diu que on va fer molt mal és a Pisco, una mica més al nord. Pel que vaig sentir no estan massa bé alla encara, de fet aconsellaven a uns gringos que hi volien anar que no hi anessin, que no hi havia res per veure i que s'arriscaven a que els hi passes algo. (Bueno eran gruingos d'aquells que es veu que tenien peles, vamos que si tens gana i no tens que menjar i t'estan mirant t'han de venir ganes de menjar-te'ĺs a ells).

Huacachina is a oase in the desert. By taxi it is about 10 minutes from Ica. The one of the billets of Peru shows this place, but in real it is much nicer. In the center is a big pond and around are palmtrees and some hostels. You can walk the sanddunes, ride in desert buggies and go sandboarding!

Aquí a Nazca paro més que res per no fer el viatge d'arequipa a lima tan llarg, i de passada veure les lineas de Nazca, però aprofito i tambe vaig a veure el cementiri de momies, bueno al mig de la zona del desert alguns forats amb les momies a dins, i per fora alguns ossos i cotó. Tal i com es veu a la foto es veu que els nascareños d'aquella època no es tallaven mai el cabell, una colla de rastes tots plegats. També ens ensenyen com fan la famosa ceràmica de nazca i aixó si se'm fa prou interessant, ens ensenyen com la fan tal i com creuen que ho feien abans i imitant també els mateixos dibuixos. També ens ensenyen com treuen l'or de per aquí, com a partir de les roques que porten alguns dels que viuen per aquí i fent servir mercuri i amb un estil una mica rustic acaben treient petits trocos d'or, també crida l'atenció veure la feina que porta, sense tenir en conte el fet de treballar amb el mercuri, i total per un troc de pedra (no entendré mai perque fem servir l'or de moneda, pero bueno).

Finalment l'endemà m'apunto per sobrevolar les linies de Nazca amb una petita avioneta per 4 persones. Deu n'hi dó amb el moviment de l'avioneta, anàvem fent esses entre les figures del terra i a més a més perque ho poguessim veure els que seiem a la dreta i els que seiem a l'esquerra feiem una volta per un cantó i una volta per l'altre, cosa que no aguanten el 80% dels estomacs (colega del meu costat inclosa) però jo vaig tenir sort, a vegades notava una mica de mareillo però ho vaig portar bé, el problema que vaig tenir jo és que no em funcionaven els auriculars per sentir al piloto, o sigui que gairebé em vaig fer la película jo sóla i m'imaginava les figures que em semblava, interpretació lliure. De totes maneres si que es fa curiós veure com eren de grans (no com el machu picchu) i pensar com es devien entretenir a fer-ho.

Bueno el problema el vaig tenir quan es va acabar el vol d'una hora, en principi havia de volar a les 8h del matí, però com això és perú vaig acabar volant 2 o 3h més tard, i jo després havia d'agafar un bus cap a paracas, havia previst les 3h de marge, però... bueno quan va aterrar l'avioneta vaig sortir corrents per intentar agafar el bus, (la gent que hi havia per allà es pensava que havia de trallar i m'enviaven al lavabo) des de l'aeroport ens portaven en furgo al centre, també va tardar una mica i quan vàrem arribar a la terminal de bus estaba just sortint, jo vaig baixar corrents de la furgo amb les motxilles i em vaig posar a correr darrera del bus, però és clar, no el vaig atrapar, però mentrestant el que m'havia portat amb la furgo es va adelantar i es va atravessar davant del bus en un stop, li va dir que faltava jo, però el tiu del bus pasava de tot i els cotxes van comencar a pitar, el de la furgo em deia que corres cap allà i jo amb les motxilles feia el que podia, però el de la furgo no va poder aguantar més i el va haver de deixar passar abans que jo arribés. Total que arribo i el de la furgo em diu puja que el seguirem, bueno pues vem fer una persecució al bus per la carretera com 2-3km fent-li llums perque parés, no va parar fins que va arribar al peatge, allà ens vem ficar al seu costat i quan li anàvem a demanar que em deixés pujar ens va fotre una bronca que t'hi cagues, deia que ja havia dit que no podia parar, que no tenia la orden, i que no em podia deixar pujar encara que tingués el bitllet. Bueno aquí va acabar la persecució i un altre cop cap a Nazca. En aquell moment vaig pensar que era una mica capullo el del bus perquè no li costava gens, però pensat millor, suposo que és la manera de garantir la seguretat, no deixant pujar a ningú a mig camí. Bueno el segûent bus sortia al cap de dos hores, llàstima que just en aquell moment van tallar la carretera i no podíen passar els busos fins 3h després, que mala suerte, perquè el primer bus no va tenir problemes, però bueno finalment encara que més tard del conte vaig arribar a Paracas.

What a relief to leave Lima behind!  As soon as I got on the bus to take me south to Ica and Huacachina I felt everything lighten, my mood and my mental state.  Lima has been different this time. It’s much nicer in the summer, but even still, as the bus rolled through the outer suburbs and then squatters settlements and shanty areas of the extreme outskirts of Lima, and then into the unpopulated desert, I felt that it’s just not the place for me.  Staying in Lima would be too limiting and eventually depressing, knowing there is such great beauty out in the rest of Peru to be discovered and relished.  Many on the bus were headed for the Oceanside resorts to the south of Lima.  Evidenced by the swimsuits peeking out from their shorts and shirts, they were dressed and ready to go for a relaxing Saturday on the sand by the shore.  Asia, about 2 hours south of Lima, is a popular destination, especially for the wealthier Limenos.  I was tempted to stop but I reminded myself that lounging on the beach wasn’t in my immediate plans and that I wanted to get down to Arequipa without too much delay.  Ica and Huacachina were on my itinerary because of the oasis and sandboarding and sand buggie ride in Huacachina, and because of the wineries outside of Ica that I didn’t get to do and visit in my last trip down here right before I came back to the U.S. in October.  

The desert landscape was familiar to me in my previous travels up the northern coast, but as always it was still fascinating.  This being summer now, the balmy salt-laden air blew through the bus mitigating the harshness of the rock and sand we were passing through.  At intervals a ghostly fog momentarily drifted through the dunes and hills to obscure the sun and render the view eerie and inhospitable.  I glimpsed some shacks set up between the Pan-American highway we were traveling on and the sea, and I wondered how anyone could even stay the night there, so removed from any sign of life or basic services such as food and water.  They must be hardy and/or desperate souls to use them as shelter.  On the way, I struck up a conversation with the Canadian sitting next to me and his Peruvian wife.  They live in Calgary and this was his second visit to Peru.  We discussed the obvious subjects: Peru, Canada, and the U.S. but also global warming, prompted by the movie, The Inconvenient Truth, that was showing on the bus.  Strange pick for a movie on a Peruvian bus I thought!  The next movie was more in keeping with what I was used to seeing.  A domestic abuse movie with lots of violence and hysterics.  Ahhh, I’m definitely back in Peru!  
They got off the bus in Canete and I continued another hour or so to Ica where I got a taxi to Huacachina.  It was too late in the afternoon to visit the wineries so I decided to maybe catch some dune buggie and sandboarding action and do the wineries the next day.  I arrived at the hostel just in time for the afternoon outing since they usually depart morning and late afternoon, the latter to experience the setting sun on the dunes and not distant foothills of the mountains.  It was a wickedly fun ride, almost like a roller coaster, due to the high and steep dunes, and the ability of the buggy to race up the peaks, pivot sharply and plunge down again.  I was strapped in next to a French couple from Bretagne and their seven year old girl who exhibited remarkably little fear.  We stopped for a photo and a short climb up one of the nearby dunes, and then, after an exhilarating plunge and surge up the following slope, to hang on for dear life as we took sandboards down a steep incline.  The preferred method was to go head first, lying on your stomach, but another option was to sit and pilot the board.  I opted for diving down head first and the trip was a thrill.  After a couple runs, the enthusiasm diminished from the steep climb back up to the top to do it over again, the buggie picked us up at the bottom and continued the wild ride.  We stopped again for a triple hill boogie board run.  This time I thought I’d go down the first hill standing up, strapped in to the board.  I did fine going down until I picked up too much speed near the bottom and lost control.  As I tumbled and hit ground, I saw stars momentarily and came to lying on the hard sand aching in my back and head.  I must have hit my lower back against the board, and my shoulder blade too because they hurt really badly.  The back of my head had smacked the ground as well and I was slow to get up and reassure them up top that I was ok.  I slid down the last two hills and enjoyed the vibrant sunset as we finally came back to the little oasis.  My body was hurting but I felt that it was worth it.  More than anything, I felt alive!  The French I had met on the buggie invited me to a beer and I joined him and his brother-in-law on the terrace in front of the hostel to talk a bit.  There was also a young Canadian couple there sipping beers and we decided to speak French so that everyone could understand, since the French brother-in-law didn’t speak or understand English so well.  I was informed that Canadians learn French as a matter of course, and that this couple was both working in Ottawa for the government and French was used officially as well as English.  So we discussed travel plans, and then later, as the French went off to bed, we continued in English until late at night covering many topics.  They had just arrived for a ten month around-the-world tour and we had a lot in common as it turned out.  I will probably see them again on my route as we are following a very similar path, at least until we reach Bolivia.  I lost track of time and before we knew it midnight had struck and we all went off to bed, making tentative plans to meet for touring wineries the next day.

Peru is not known for its wine industry…and rightly so.  Having tried several of the different selections, white and red, dry and sweet, from this small wine-producing area I’ve come to the conclusion that with few exceptions, Peru should stick to making and promoting their grappa-like Pisco.  The Pisco was very good in each of the wine bodegas that I visited today.  One was a commercial enterprise and the other two touristy places with mediocre products all around.  The Malbec/Cabernet I tasted at Vista Allegre was surprisingly good, and at $6 a bottle, quite a good bargain.  I’d easily place it against the same blend from Mendoza in  that price range.  The white however was best forgotten.  In fact it was so bad that I immediately wanted to wash the taste out from my mouth.  It was a Chenin Blanc and I attributed the poor quality to the lack of a hospitable climate for this delicate grape that fares much better in cool climes.  The weather here is simply too hot for any decent whites and for cool-weather reds either.  Cabernet does well, and is about the only grape that can be made into a decent dry wine.  However one winery, Tacama, which was closed today and also doing some repairs still from the effects of the earthquake last August, makes an excellent white that is a blend of three grapes, including chardonnay, viognier and sauvignon blanc I believe.  I’ve had this wine on several occasions and it’s very good.  The only problem is that it’s a bit pricey to be able to compete on an international level.  Tacama’s gran tinto red is also excellent, but with the same problem of pricing.  This tasting was hardly what you’d experience in the U.S., or in other countries either for that matter.  The old woman manning the tasting area acted completely indifferent to me, and even served my first wine in a filthy glass, one that had obviously been used and not cleaned.  I asked her for a clean glass and she seemed a bit miffed at me.  Also, I tasted from outside a barred window through which she handed the products.  I had to solicit everything from her, and she acted as if she were doing me a favor to answer my questions or explain anything to me.  The property though was very pretty.  Never have I seen vines planted in sight of a massive sand dune, and with palm trees growing hardily in the middle!  There were ancient ficus trees towering over the driveway, and my driver said they were close to two hundred years old.

The second winery, Il Catador, which means “sommelier” in Spanish, is clearly a tourist destination.  They offered tours and tastings and a very mediocre food menu which I didn’t try.  Our guide was a nice young guy but his English was very difficult to understand.  I accompanied another English-speaking group around the grounds and then we tasted some of the products.  No dry wines are produced here, just sweet wines and pisco products.  The pisco was decent, especially the pure pisco made from the aromatic Torrontel grape.  This was also my favorite pisco at the last winery we went to, Lazo.  My driver told me that the owner is the great great great grandson of the liberator Simon Bolivar!  They have a collection of various artifacts from the ancient civilizations that lived around the area, and of other paintings and sculptures and detritus all haphazardly occupying the walls and corners of the inside area where the wine is stored in the clay amphorae-like containers that the Incas used for their chicha, the homemade corn beer or liquor (depending on when they stop the fermentation).  These primitive jars probably aren’t the best for maintaining quality, nor the stomping of the grapes by foot that they do at Il Catador.  I suspect that they only do that for the harvest festival, where they elect a queen and get the girls to stomp around in the vat all the while drinking a mixture of pisco and sweet white that they call “Amor Perfetto,” Perfect Love.  One can only imagine that scene at the end of the night.  All in all, I enjoyed the experience.  The day was hot, but not unbearable and I can think of worse ways to while away a few hours.  

The rest of my afternoon was spent enjoying the boisterous scene around the little lagoon oasis.  I watched lots of kids splashing around, taking boards down the dunes, enjoying picnics and ice creams.  A typical Sunday sunny afternoon.  As the sun started to go down, Darcie and Kim, the Canadians I had met the night before, invited me to hike up to the top of the closest dune to watch the sunset over Huacachina and from that vantage point, over Ica as well.  As the sun dipped lower, it threw its last rays out and struck the flanks of the foothills of the Andes on the other side of Ica.  The shimmering pinks and roses slowly turned to reds and violets and finally dark purples as the sun finally sank below the high dune.  Up there, facing away from the oasis and the town, I felt like I could have been in the middle of the Sahara.  The sand, blown into so many evocative shapes and curves, molded, ever-changeable, seemed to have no end.  Just the sight of the perfect blue sky alone, cast into stark relief by the sharp, geometric edges of a dune, was enough to hold my gaze for a long time, as I marveled at the astounding variety of nature’s manifestations.  Our footsteps up the crest of the dune were slowly filling up with sand and I wondered how long it would be before the wind-blown sand erased any trace of our presence.  In silence, we headed back down towards the hostel, filled with similar thoughts and deep contentment.

Tonight, on to Arequipa via night bus!

after a rather not productive sleep and 15 hours we arrived. basically got jumped by touts at the bus station, never fun!! found out about buses to mancora, gonna take us 21 hours on buses and 6 hours stop over to get there and we have to leave at 3.30am, yay!!!
 
when we walked out to find some where to stay a dog bit me on the back of the leg which was fun too, didnt look too rabbid ?¿ found somewhere to stay and i found i have lost the keys for my bag, awesome, a nice man smashed the lock off for me.
 
de has now gone off for a flight over the nazca lines. it was well out my budget, de said she would get it for me for my birthday but i think looking at her pics will be enough for me. really not sure if i should go outside the hotel today anyway!!! maybe just an arvo of sun and beer before this nasty bus trip. however mancora is a beach resort and right on the fronteer of equador so it will be worth it to try and get up there quickly. gonnna meet up with the french canadian girls there too hopefully. 

And the mystery continues . . . what was the purpose of these lines???

The Nazca Lines are a series of geoglyphs located in the Nazca Desert, stretching 53 miles (≈ 80km) between the towns of Nazca and Palpa on the Pampas de Jumana in Peru.  Just a little bit of info for you guys!!

So you have these mysterious lines scattered all about this high arid plateau, and still no one knows exactly why? Scientists have come up with some explanations to these lines, but there's still a lot of debate.  Some say the purpose was for astrological reasons, others say these lines were drawn for the Gods. Hmmmm???????????

Anyway, Arnaud and I couldn't miss out on checking them out, so we decided to dish out the cash needed. And ouch, did it hurt!! We actually lucked out because as we asked other tourists how much they had paid for the tour, we realized that we came out with a good deal!! That's good negotiating, for ya!! So, we anxiously got on the tiny plane, which would take us up high enough to see the lines.  But little did we know what was in store for us!! After only 5 minutes of flying, we were both feeling miserably sick from all the dips and swirves!! We tried our best to stay focused and admire the magnitude of the lines, but it was a bit difficult. 

When we finally got off the plane, boy were we glad!! Poor Arnaud rushed to the bathroom, and well, I just dropped on the first seat I could find!!  All in all, I must say that getting dizzy and nauseous was well worth it! Seeing the Nasca lines firsthand was an amazing experience! If you ever have the opportunity, definitely hop on the tiny plane and go up up and away!!!

If you look closely, you can see the drawings, but get ready to squint those eyes, 'cause it's a bit tough to see them . . . if you're successful in doing so . . . BRAVO!!!!

En voyageant, on apprend plein de choses sur soi meme et ses limites. Je peux vous dire que voler dans un petit avion, c est pas facile, faut dire aussi que c etait un avion de merde, un coucou de merde ou bien le pilote qui avait fait un coucours avec ses cons de potes pilotes: a celui qui allait vomir le premier entre le chinois, le blanc ou la mexicaine. Heureusement le pilote a pas gagne grand chose, j  imagine meme pas voler avec l odeur de vomi ba.......

Moi naif les premieres minutes, decollage normal, mais un peu nerveu, premiere pour nous, petit avion avec petite helice et casque sur la tete, le pilote au bout de 5 min, commence a nous montrer les sites sur la gauche et la droite, et vas y qui tournait comme un dingue, bref pour moi la minute suivante, j etais vert bleu, bon le chinois lui , il est reste jaune :) et il fesait moins de photos aussi, juanita quant a elle, a ete malade un peu plus tard. Voila pour le periple, en resume malade.

Pour les lignes de Nasca, cela reste encore un des grands mysteres de ce monde, les scientiphiques n ont aucune conclusion. Un calendrier astronomique, des creatures representants des dieux, ils ont rien de concret. Je pense encore a cette femme allemande qui a vouee sa vie a percer le mystere de ces dessins sur le sol, et qui est restee toute seule pendant toutes ces annees, et pratiquement personne est venu l aider y compris les peruviens, seulement apres avoir vu que les touristes commencaient a y s intereser que les peruviens ont vu l importance du site :)

Petite dedicace a cette dame: Maria Reich

We woke up early, wanting to do as much as possible in Ica. We knew we wanted to go to the Huacachina (the oasis) and also to The Ballestas Islands (but this is in another town - Paracas). We just had to think about it carefully, because our budget was a bit tight and we left our cards in Lima, just in case.

Anyway, we were just walking around the Main Square, when whe saw a Travel Agency and found they offer a City Tour which includes the Oasis. So, this was our Tour ;)

The Tour left at 10:30 am. We were 4 people: Ricardo, Olga, Sky (the only non Peruvian) & me. Our guide, Armando, was driving and explaining at the same time. Just a small detail. He didnt speak English! So, I became the translator, hahaha.

Well, we drove first to an Industrial Vineyard, but they were full and asked us to come back at noon. Mmm, change of plans. First Stop: Luren's Sanctuary. The Church was bad damaged during the last Earthquake. Until today they are working in it and the Image of Jesus is in another church nearby. The major wanted to move the image from the Sanctuary to Ica's Cathedral, but the people said no and didn't let it happen. Armando told us the story about the "brunette" Jesus and how the image arrived to Ica, originally it was supposed to stay in Lima. It happened long time ago, during the Colony. There was a storm in their way to Lima, so the sailors throw the image to the sea. A fisherman found it and brought it to Ica. The Image turned to brunette, once it got almost burned.

Then we went to Cachiche, best known as Witches' Land. People there believe a lot in witches and witchcrafts. Until today you can find people who read hands and want to tell the fortune. They believe, there was a witch living there. The children wait for the tourists and want to tell the whole story in order to get some tips. We weren't the exception and a little boy told us the story about Cachiche and the magic tree. He was so sweet...

Now, it was time to go to Huacachina - the Oasis! You can also drive the Buggies and practice Sandboard there! We didn't do it, because we didn't have money at that time. The Oasis is so nice! Just finding a lake in the middle of the desert. In order to get a better view, we climbed a dune.  It was really hot and it wasn't as easy as I thought. But it was worth. The view was just Amazing!!!!!

It was around 2pm and we went to the Vineyards. But instead of going to the Industrial one we tried to visit at the beginning, we went to a Traditional one. It was an old fashioned one. Very traditional. They produce not only wine, but also Pisco and Cachina. Both of them made of grapes. We tried the different type of wines, piscos and the cachina. The atmosphere of this vineyard was great, with a lot of antiques. Armando was teaching us the way to try the pisco, so you won't get drunk and could taste it. Also he decided to take us a test regarding what we have visited in Ica. We had a blast there. Just take a look at the pictures.

Anyway, we were hungry. We went to a restarant in the countryside in order to try the traditional food. We spent a nice time over there. Just laughing and talking about what we saw. Sky & me were planning about going to Paracas early next day. Well, it would depend if we can get a wire on time.

Well, the sweet part of the story is over... when we were back at the hostel I noticed I have been robbed!!!! Someone took my wallet and my cell phone from my purse. I didn't care that much about the money, but my ID was in my wallet!!! Sky didn't have any money either. That day in the morning he decided to give me his money in order to keep it with mine. I was supposed to be the safe! His credit card and passport were safe in Lima, ufffff. I was glad, I didn't have my camera inside the purse. The photos are priceless.

So, we were lost in a small city in the middle of the desert withouth money, cell phone and ID. Nooooooooooooooooooooooooo.

Ok, I just had to take a deep breath and think about what to do. It was getting late. I tried to remember any phone number, but it didn't work. I sent a SMS to the only number I remembered and hoped I would get an answer that night later or maybe the next day in the morning. What can we do now? Well, actually there was no much to do. Just sleep and wait for a better day...

I have never thaught, it'd be possible for me being so glad about going back home, but it happened.

Today we woke up and tried to think as good as possible how we can get rid of this bad situation. Last night the people of the hostel offered to help me, but they changed their mind. Oh no!!!! We went to the Travel Agency trying to find our guide, but the Agency was closed. There was also a celebration in the Main Square.

We were trying to check out of the hostel, but couldn't do it without paying. I was waiting for a miracle there, when an old sir recommended me to go to the police station. Why didn't I think about that before???? Well, we were in Peru and ...

Anyway, we decided to use the little money we had in going to the police station and report the robbery. When we arrived, a man approached to me and told me, it wouldn't take long to do the report, which I can use instead of my ID. I felt a relief until he sayed: "So come back tomorrow early!" What?!?!?! No way, no way. I said to him that it was impossible. He said there was no way. So I just turned back, started walking, almost crying. Sky was trying to console me. The man noticed it and came just saying: "Don't worry, senorita (Miss), the captain will help you, but please don't cry..." And so he did. The captain arranged everything. But there was missing a receipt. I was supposed to go to the National Bank and pay a fee. But they don't work on Sunday. So he sold me a receipt and proceed with the report.

We had less than US$ 3.00 left, but felt rich just thinking we had a wire waiting for us in the bus station. I was doing the line, asking to myself if the cashier would accept the report as ID or not. He didn't have a problem with that, but he needed a copy of it. Sky and me went for it and in the way had a glass of juice. I was so thirsty that this was the best juice of all my life!!!!!! We went back to the station with the copy and the cashier was almost paying me when he said: "This is fake!" Well, when you pay a fee in the National Bank they write your ID number on it. In this case the ID number of the receipt wasn't mine. I tried to explain it to him, but he didn't want to listen to me. And this time, I couldn't help it and started to cry. Sky came and also an old watchman with a glass of water. He talked to the cashier and asked him to help me. I was explaining them the whole situation as the same time I was traslating it to Sky. At the end, the cashier talked to his boss by phone and I could cash the wire. Ufffffffffffffffffffffffffffffffff

I felt so good. Sky and me had another juice, went back to the hostel, picked up our stuff, grabbed something to eat and left Ica ASAP (as soon as possible). We just wanted to be back in the safe Lima.

I have to accept that I was desperate then. Now I can look back with a big smile and laugh about everything. It has been quite an adventure. That's for sure I won't forget this trip in a looooooooooooooooooong time. Or maybe never.  Well, if it doesn't kill you, it makes you stronger ;)

Sky & me arrived to Nazca last night, after a long bus drive... We left Lima around 3:30pm and were at the hostel around 10:30pm. We were tired and just wanted to have something to drink and sleep.

Our adventure started on Friday morning. We weren't 100% sure about what to do in Nazca. The only thing we knew for sure is that we wanted to fly over the Nazca lines. I have been reading about them since I was in school, but never overfliew them. So, this time was the right time to do it. We booked that in the hostel and at 9:30am we went to the airport. Before departing we had to watch a video. It was about the origin of the Nazca lines.  After 45min it was time to go, yeah!

The plane was small. We were just 5 people + the pilot. Sky & me were sit at the back. The duration of the flight was about 40min. The pilot was describing what we were looking. It was amazing watching this lines and how they "survived" since so long time ago... We could see the different lines: the astronaut, the monkey, the dog, the whale, etc. Wow! I was so glad, I didn't take breakfast that day, otherwise I could have been really sick. I think Sky made a very good video.

After that we went back to the hostel and checked out. Before leaving Nazca there were a couple of things else to do: Visit the Mummys and the Aqueducts. Before going we had lunch at the Main Square and then it was time to go...

First Stop: Necropolis of Chauchilla. It was about 40min from Nazca in a Taxi. The Necropolis were in the middle of the desert. All we can see was just sand. Finally we arrived to the Necropolis. At first sight there were just a couple of small houses, but when we came closer we could see the mummies inside. It was incredible how well preserved they were. Their clothes, their hair, even the bones and skulls looked so good. Actually they were really white, almost as if they have been bleached! I have already seen a couple of these mummies in Lima, but in a museum and behind a glass. It was completely different seeing them in the right place! So cool!

Originally, we were supposed to go back to the city, but the taxi driver recommended us to visit the Aqueduct of Cantalloc and so we did. This aqueducts have been made before the Inca Times and the local farmers still use them to water their lands. You can't see them, because they are under the surface of the ground, but in order to check them, the Nazca people built a sort of "eyes", which are deep. They used them to check the water level and also as breathing holes for the water. It was amazing just taking a look inside. We also tried a bit of that water. It was clean and fresh. Just what we needed. The day was too hot!!!!!

Well, that was Nazca and we were ready to keep on moving. We went back to the city, took our bags and went to the bus station to take the next bus to Ica.