Hotel Sangay Spa is said to be the best in town. The location is very good, a bit outside of the center of town but still easily walkable and the waterfall next door is nice with a soothing sound. The baths are also right next door. That said, the service is disinterested at best (which is strange for Ecuador, with its friendly people), the spa facilities were practically unavailable (we must have asked about eight times, only to be told, "we'll book you later", when 'later' finally arrived, the spa was closed for cleaning, etc, etc, At last we gave up). The rooms are clean enough, but very dark and gloomy, and the hotel was noisy with small children running around screaming. Would I recommend this hotel to someone else? Not if you would like the services the hotel prides itself on like the spa. Yes for the location.

We finally wanted to leave today but fate decided otherwise. After packing all our bags and carrying them down to the lobby, we left them in the storage room while we headed out for some breakfast and to draw some money to pay the hostal. Breakfast was great but we noticed that there seemed to be no electricity in town. They prepared some great pancakes for us anyway (must have had a gas stove I presume) and we were on our way to the ATM to draw some cash, get our bags and onto Cuenca. However as we had feared, the banks here have no emergency power supply so without electricity there was no money from the ATM. We also went into the bank itself but they couldn't help us either. Apparently the power was coming back at 5pm so we decided to have some fun in the afternoon and then try to catch a night bus to Cuenca.

With nothing else to do we decided to hire some quadbikes and drive up to the viewpoint of the volcano. Riding the quadbikes was great fun and although we never got to see the volcano (after 3 or 4 weeks in Ecuador we still haven't seen a single volcano because they're always covered in clouds) the man who mans the volcano watch and geological station there was super friendly and gave us a wonderful lecture on the volcano's activity and what he does. While we were listening to him we could hear the volcano grumble through the clouds in the background which, despite his remarks that these were just pequeñitos (smal grumbles), made me want to get out of there and and wonder about his life right next to an active volcano. Apparently they can detect the magma and lava rising which gives them about a 30 minute window to warn and evacuate the town. On the way down we also stopped at the viewpoint for a great view and some photos of Baños.

It had actually been raining on our way up so we were quite wet and apparently it wasn't such a great idea to take the bus at night so we decided to stay another night and catch the first bus at 4am in the morning. The ATMs also worked by the time we got back so we paid our bill, had some dinner and then off to bed to get up early the next morning.

We finally were well enough again to do some of the amazing activities that can be done in Baños and surroundings. For only 5 USD each we rented mountain bikes and did the tour of the waterfalls to Rio Verde. Basically it's almost all downhill and great fun with some stunning views and waterfalls along the way. The only slightly hair raising moment was the first tunnel. If there was a way around then we missed it so it was through we went. It's only about 100 meters long but without and form of headlights and with some of the cars also driving without lights I was a bit worried about getting hit by a car while in there. Luckily we made it through without any cars coming by and the next few waterfalls all had an alternative road for bicycles that went around the outside of the mountain.

In Rio Verde we went to look at the waterfall there as well and the 1 USD to go into the restaurant and walk right up to the waterfall is well worth it. It's a pretty big waterfall with a lot of water so it's a really powerful sight. You can also follow a tiny path further up that involves a lot of crawling underneath the rocks which takes you right behind the waterfall. I've been behind waterfalls before but nothing as big as this and never as close to the water. Oh by the way, be sure to bring rain coats. We had ours with us because it was quite overcast and thank God for that because we would have been completely wet otherwise. When I was standing behind the waterfall, I was actually partly standing under it an I felt water hitting my raincoat like a nice, strong shower.

All in all a fantastic day and greatly recommended.

We're paying $12 for a double room with private bathroom and satellite TV. Everything is super clean and the owner is super friendly. Great place! (I put 3 for location because it's not right in the main center and I thought some might want that although it's only about a 5 min walk and I actually prefer the slightly quieter location.)

After initially almost not going to go to Baños at all, we really like this place so far and might stay here for a while. We're staying in a great hostal, the valley setting between the lush green mountains is amazing and there are lots of great restaurants with titilating book exchanges and free movie screenings. Oh and did I mention that we have satellite TV in our room? I'm actually trying to wean myself off the TV as I'd really like to read some of the great books I've found here.

Great food and best book exchange I've found in 7 months in Latinamerica! Free movie screenings every day at 16h30.

Plantas y Blanco was, by far, one of the nicest ho0stels that I have ever stayed in. Like any good establishment, it was clean and secure. As an added bonus, it had the best shower in all of Ecuador. I have been here for two months and have, on occasion, yearned for a shower with good water pressure and a consistent temperature other than scalding or freezing. Plantas y Blanco was my plumbing savior. I cannot recommend it highly enough.

We climbed Tungurahua after staying a few days in Banos. When we reached the summit, we could not see a thing... 

We had left our paragliders on the way up, as we saw they would be of no use...

Danger is all relative and every place has its dangers. Colombia has the FARC and kidnappings as part of its ongoing civil conflict, Quito has its muggings and petty crime, and Banos has a more natural danger, its volcano. Located 7km from the crater of Tungurahua, which erupted two weeks ago and rained ash down on the city, Banos is in a less than ideal location when it comes to its safety. At the foot of the volcano and surrounded by deep river gorges and other mountains, the scenery is amazing, however, there are well marked designated evacuation routes just in case the volcano erupts again. It is a true tourist town with loads of foreign and Ecuadorean tourists and its name derives from the many baths in and around the town. Because of the volcanic activity there are nightly trips run by the multitude of tour agencies up to the nearby mountains to watch the volcano. A lot of times these don´t live up to the promise of seeing an eruption as the volcano is often covered in clouds or fog or both.

On the first night I arrived I decided to go on one of said tours. They drove around the town in a big jeep known as a chiva waiting for and picking up as many people as they could before finally heading across the bridge out of town and up the mountain opposite the volcano. After we left town they let us ride on the roof of the chiva as we made our way up a hundred switchbacks on the dirt road up to the top of the mountain. When we got up there the volcano was covered in clouds. After waiting for a few minutes the clouds actually cleared and we could see the summit of the volcano. Shortly after this we were treated to a small volcanic eruption and the volcano shot out some lava off and on for about 5 minutes. It was amazing to actually see this and considering that you could see the entire town of Banos on the valley floor below it was disconcerting to think that someday the town will be destroyed in an eruption.

The next day I rented a mountain bike and road downhill from Banos on the road to Puyo, a town in the foothills nearer to the jungle. It was only $5 a day to rent the bike and it even included a helmet, spare tube, a pump, and a lock. The road runs alongside the river and there are various waterfalls on the side of the road and within short hiking distances. There are also a few cable cars that run across the river gorge to the other side. The scenery was great and most of the time there wasn´t much traffic on the road so I didn´t have to choke on the noxious black fumes of the trucks and buses. The road passes through a couple tunnels, which are obviously unlit and leaking water, fortunately the bike trail goes around all of these tunnels except the first one which you are forced to ride through. Luckily the cars have their lights on so that you can see something, otherwise it was almost pitch black inside the tunnel and the air was absolutely vile from all the exhaust fumes and zero ventilation. It was an easy ride since it was all downhill save for a few small parts which were only slightly uphill. After arriving at the last waterfall and hiking down and back you can just catch a ride back to Banos in a truck for a dollar or two. Later that night I went to the baths in town which are located at the base of a waterfall which cascades down the mountain behind Banos. There were a few different baths at different temperatures and it was really nice to sit and soak in hot water, as that is usually a rare commodity in most places in South America. And it was good preparation for another day of travel.

Dave was feeling a little worse for wear this morning!!  So before we hit the mountain bikes we did our first bit of souvenier shopping!

Once Dave was feeling half human again we got on our bikes & went on a 20km ride & a walk to a waterfall over an Indiana Jones style bridge.  On the way down I fell over & almost broke my camera!!! (my baby!).  We got a truck back as it was absolutely chucking it down (& didnt fancy another 20km ride!).  On the way back we managed to see the volcano let off a cloud of ash.  In the evening we went over the bridge to see if we could see the volcano errupt.  We did!!!  It was fantastic!  It rumbled like thunder & then you could see the red lava flow down the hillside.  This is the most active volcano out of the 8 in Ecuador.

Arrived in Banos around midday & headed for a recommended hostel (Hostal Plantas y Blanca) only to find it was fully booked.  What?!?!  We're not used to this!  We're used to having the places to ourselves!!  We ended up in a lovely place around the corner (La Petite Auberge) which had a boxer dog which became Andy's new best friend!!  I think he may have found his Ecuador ...!!

After we settled in our room we wandered around the streets to find that there was a massive carnival (which was televised!) taking over the whole town!  It reminded me of the St Paddy's parade in Dublin!  All the locals were loving it.

Banos (Baths) is a lovely little village surrounded by high mountains & volcan Tunguratiua (which still pumps out clouds of ash!). 

Well I´m actually writing this in Peru after the event - but I just wanted to place this entry in my favourite destination in Ecuador whilst covering those places, both rewarding and disappointing, that I haven´t yet written about... 

Banos

Whatever little Banos lacks in size, it makes up for in personality. We only spent two days there but I would have been much happier if it had been many more.

Under the shadow of the increasingly active Volcan Tungurahua we spent our time watching the fiesta, mountain biking, walking, drinking, dancing and generally just relaxing. I loved it - the place is set up for backpackers but has also managed to retain a palpable sense of its own identity.  Banos is set atop a naturally beautiful plateau flanked by mountains and, of course, the rumbling, smoke-spewing enfant terrible that is Tungurahua. If you spend four or five days here, you won´t regret it.  

Lago Quilotoa

A massive volcanic crater lake and the highlight of the Quilotoa loop. Go early as mist settles in the afternoon and you might not see a thing. Oh and be warned - at that altitude, climbing back up from the edge of the lake is a killer.  We did the whole Quilotoa loop in 2 days but 3 or 4 would have been easier going. If you get a clear day, the scenery on the journey between Latacunga and Zumbhua is phenomenal. Chugchilian and the Cloud Forest Lodge in particular are highly recommended for more chill out time on the loop.

Riobamba

The city itself does not compare kindly with Latacunga, Otavalo or Cuenca and we had two shocking meals here (probably our bad luck more than any kind of general cuisine malaise). The Nariz del Diablo train ride was five hours of boredom packed onto cattle cars with hundreds of other tourists followed by two hours of decent, but not exceptional, scenery on the Devil´s Nose section itself.

You can´t ride on the roof of the train any more following the decapitation of two Japanese tourists who had stood up to take photos and didn´t see an electric wire hung across the track at exactly the wrong level. The electric company apparently neglected to inform the train company that they had done this... good work fellas.  

Volcan Chimborazo was cloudy when we went up, still high from the views at Cotopaxi, and we only got partial shots of the top. this capped off a pretty disappointing stay in poor old Rioshambles...        

Cuenca

All of the guide books wet their pants about the beauty of Cuenca, but I just didn´t get it. Yes, we went when a lot of the city was being dug up for one reason or other and, of course, some conniving bastard stole my day pack (it was in a cafe called Casa de Mujeres off the Plaza San Francisco by the way). However, even before all pof that happened, I still thought that Cuenca was nothing more than a nice-looking town, not even a small patch on the casual beauty of Quito.   

Anyway, I´m closing the book right there on Ecuador, and three amazing weeks of polar ups and downs that have kicked off my big trip in some style. I would strongly recommend the place to anyone who´s a bit jaded and in need of a bit of colour and passion in their life. You could do it as a three (or even two) week holiday.  The diversity of the country for its diminuitive (in S American terms) size is astonishing.

You can climb volcanoes, negotiate rain forest, explore big cities, go to indigenous markets adn spend time on the beach. And all this amongst people who, with a few (thieving scumbag) exceptions, were friendly, curious about travellers and live life (whatever their financial circumstances) in a liberal, easy going fashion that appears to be very Latin American.                

It´s weekend again and time to relax a bit.  Perfect time to go to Baños that had been recommended by several travellers.  It immediately hits you as a place you´ll be sad to leave.  Just 12000 residents sitting in a lush valley undernreath cascading waterfalls, 1000m below between parallel lines of mountains including the impressive active Volcan Tungurahua give it a sheltered warm climate.  Named after the thermal baths heated from the volcano, it is the Cairns of Ecuador set up perfectly for tourists without being touristy. 

On arrival we were just happy to wander round the picturesque surroundings with  the obligatory pretty plaza with the addition of colourful streets and churches.  We got an additional surprise on turning a corner that the whole village was out in force for what turned out to be a full dress rehearsal for the upcoming carnival (15th Dec).   In beaming sunshine we wiled away a couple of hours watching the remainder of the village, dance, sing and "float" past in a variety of costumes - even in the small towns they appear to make a real effort for carnival.  Bumped into Rachel again (Thompson Rd) and went out for a meal before the carnival continued into the night with stage shows and a pub crawl (including Rachel putting Dave and I are in our place at the dancing).  Marvelled at the intellect of one Ozzy lad who was part of a 26 person tour around South America (admittedly absolutely wasted but thrilled at the fact that I was from England and could speak English !!).  Unfortunately, I couldn´t get rid of him for the rest of the night - why do I always attract them ??

Following day, feeling a little worse for ware, but Dave as usual felt worse.  Gave him an hour to recover before taking the advice of fellow travellers, and hiring bikes to cycle out of town on a predominantly downhill road to four waterfalls close by.  This time on the roads, the number of cars overtaking on a direct collision course was a little unnerving but soon got used to it.  Maried coined the "fun" part of the ride when having to cycle through a 300m pitch black tunnel where you just hoped that cars could see the silhouette of us cycling instead of being flattened (thankfully we all survived but we met a girl later who had cycled into the wall and mangled her big toe).  The worst over, we could enjoy the weather and cycle past the waterfalls including an offroad section where water cascaded over a rocky overhand that you cycled underneath.  We stopped at the 3rd waterfall and walked down the hill and across a wooden suspension bridge to get a closer look (and get very wet).  It justified the day in itself. Plenty of photos.

After our return, we walked out of the town to try and get a glimpse of the ever erupting Volcan Tungurahua which has recently been erupting every 20 minutes !!!!  It didn´t disappoint as it erupted into the jet black night providing a loud rumble of thunder as it sent molten lava rolling down the mountainside. A view that will never be forgotten.

The journey out of Baños the following morning provided several more eruptions and provided the only positive about leaving Baños as surely the volcano is going to blow big time sometime very soon.  Dave and I are still coming back to set up our hostel though ;-)

We spent Tuesday in the Amazon rainforest. We canoes out to a wildlife sanctuary, where we were greeted by playful squirrel monkeys and rehabilitated woolly monkeys and Capuchin monkeys. Capuchin monkeys are meant to be the most intelligent of the New World monkeys, and are know to rub their fur with Pipers (a plant from the chilli family) and millipedes, to coat themselves in the toxic chemicals that keep insects away. We also saw captive Macaws, parrots, peccaries, capybara, ocelots and jaguarundi, which had been rescued.

We went on a short hike through the rainforest. We saw Hairdresser bees (so called because they can’t sting but they swarm into your hair and pull on it), tiny poison arrow frogs, rubber trees (locals make toy balls from it), Drago’s Blood (the sap of the tree is used to treat sore throats), Santo Maria Palm (boiled and used to treat bruises), palms that are used for weaving and termite nests. The poison arrow frogs are my favourites, I’ve always wanted to see them in the wild. As well as being beautiful brightly coloured animals and incredibly toxic they have really interesting and diverse methods of looking after their young. One species carries a pair of tadpoles around on its back, returning to bromeliad pools to keep them moist, while other species carries the eggs on its back but drops them in a pool when they hatch. The most interesting is a species that deposits a single tadpole in each pool so they don’t have to compete for food - if the pool already has a resident tadpole in it the tadpole wags its tail at her to prevent her dropping another. She then returns to each pool and deposits an unfertilised egg as food.

The forest around here was not the old growth rainforest of the deep Amazon, but 25 year old secondary forest, although there were some older iron wood trees that housed bromeliads. The bromeliads are important because even though the forest gets rain regularly, the small pools in the base of the bromeliads clinging to the trees provide the only source of constant water in the canopy. They actually make up a miniature ecosystem with 470 species of small frogs and insects living in them and others, such as Vine Snakes and Crane Hawks, living just outside to prey on the inhabitants. Even the trees, with a ready supply of water at their base, take shortcuts and put down roots into the pool. The pools can hold up to nine litres of water, and are so common that 1km2 of forest can hold two million litres of water in bromeliads. This provides a significant strain on the trees, such that some have evolved to self-prune by cutting off water to bromeliad-bearing branches, severing both branch and bromeliad in an attempt to save the tree.

After our walk we went back to the boat and drifted down the river in rubber tubes, watching eagles soar above us, river turtles basking and squirrel monkeys playing on the shore.

We had a swim in the pool after lunch, and then visited a local tribal house where they gave us a demonstration of their cooking, skill at the blow pipe and their pottery making (while the kids were distracted playing with a rhinoceros beetle). The most famous craft of the Amazon Indians was the creation of shrunken heads, which were made by cutting off the heads of enemies, opening the scalp and removing the skull and other bones by crushing them and withdrawing them. The flesh was then filled with hot sand, sewn up, and coated with the juice of a local berry to preserve it. As the skin dried and shrank, the head was reopened, a little sand was removed, and it was resealed, keeping sure to preserve the features by reworking the flesh into the sand. When it shrank to 1-2 inches it was finally smoke-cured. Rather than shrunken heads we bought a small pottery bowl and a bottle of Drago’s blood.