It is only day 6 of my trip and we already had a robbery attempt that resulted in a high speed foot chase through the winding streets of Arequipa. Okay. Maybe not that dramatic. But it did get the old adrenaline pumping.

We are back in Arequipa now and in a few hours we head to Puno to check out Lake Titicaca.

When got into Arequipa and had a look around the town - it was good to be out the rain and we had definitely gone into a different, drier climate! The city is really interesting - overloked by El Misti volcano (extinct) and has some good places to walk around and see. We went to the Santa Catalina convent where we met up with Pepo and Josephine who were on the Inca trail trek with us. The convent is fascinating, it is in the middle of the city but was totally closed off to outsiders until 1969. The nuns inside were famous for being un-nun like and holding parties and musical recitals even though they had taken the vow of silence. Eventually, however, the fun stopped and the convent became an extremely austere place. It is still a working convent, although the nuns live in a separate area to where the tourists are allowed to go. They still take a vow of silence and still practise self flagellation and starvation in order to purge themselves of their sins. Amazing to see and not a little spooky to think of these women and their strange, strange lives.

Thats night we went to a restaurant where we again bumped into Pepo and Josephine! We had some great llama which I unfortunately reacted badly to - we ended up having to cancel our planned trek through the Colca canyon the next morning. We eventually got on a bus tour of the canyon a day later and, although we are not ususally fans of bus tours, this one turned out to be good. We drive through the mountains, stopping off at a hot spring and sleeping over in a small town close to the canyon. The next morning we got up ealry and drove around to some of the famous viewing spots the canyon. It is apparently 3000m deep at its deepest point - thats 3 times the depth of the Grand Canyon in the US - although we didn´t see the extremely deep spots.

We also managed to catch some condors circling on the thermals created by the mroning air warming up in the canyon. They re amazing to see and we managed to catch some good photos of them (by "we" I mean Lindy....! for some reason, I could quite get them!).

Got back to Arequipa and met up for a meal and drinks with; guess who - Pepo and Josephine, and Dan and Amanda - another couple who were on the Inca trail with us.

We were picked up in a small mini bus from our hostel that picked up the rest of the small group afterwards. From the city it was a four journey to the small town of Chivay. On the way to the town we stopped to take pctures of the magnificent scenery aswell as the Alpacas and the local indigenious peolle who sold differnt souvenirs for the tourists including of course the Peruvian hats that were sold across Peru. Once at the town of Chivay we were dropped off for lunch then taken to our accomadation. All the other people were dropped at there nice hotels or hostels while us as usual ended up staying in a crappy little hostel. It done us though, had a bed with en suite bathroom although got pretty cold in the evening. IN the afternoon after having hour at  the hostel to get sorted we were picked up again by the mini bus with our tour guide then taken to the nearby hot springs. The springs were nice but no where near as on the Macchu Picchu trail. They were so crowded it seemed like the whole of the town had come down at the same time to have there evening bath. We had 2 hours bathing in the natural hot water before getting showered and meeting up with the rest of the group to get taken but to out accomadation. IN the evening we were picked up once again, then taken to a resturant in the town. In the resturant we had a nice 2 course meal which was the usual custom in Peru. Whilst we ate was really nice surprise to have traditional Peruvian dancers in traditional dress dancing in the centre of the resturant. At one point I was dragged up by the lady to get involved in some traditional dance which was quite fun if not a little embarrasing. We headed back to our accomadation after really nice evening. The next day it was an early start to be picked up by the mini bus to take us the Colca Canyon. We had a quick breakfast then were on our way. Driving up to the Canyon the bus stopped regulary so our guide could tell us some information about what we were seing and allowed us to take some pictures of the pictureque settings. Eveywhere around the Canyons convinietly evrery were the busses stopped were the indeginious people sellig goods. Alot of the small girls having an Alpaca tired to a lead much like a dog. We arrived at the Canyon after around an hour drive from Chivay. The Canyon was really impressive  

Colca Canyon - another highlight of Peru.  Until recently, the deepest canyon in the world until a new canyon was discovered close by.  Still being deeper than the Grand Canyon it had to be impressive. It is also famed for its numerous condors that linger in the thermal updraft. We were also on the hunt for a bloke who had left our hostel 2 months before on his own and never returned.

2 cabs waiting for us at our 6.30 start but no tour guide.  However Alvaro soon turned up with 2 Germans to join our group of 8 from the Arequipa beach party. From then on, Alvaro was in complete control organising taxis, buying bus tickets and making sure we were in the best place.  5 hours and 2 bus journeys later, we were at the starting point for our Colca Canyon trek.  What caught us all off guard was that being a tour from Arequipa, we all thought that the Colca Canyon would be a desert canyon like the Grand Canyon.  However we were back in the mountains and rain looked very likely.  Fortunately I had packed my waterproof but Dave and Neil quickly marched into a shop and bought another poncho (otherwise known as a blue sheet with a whole cut in for your head).

The 1st day of the trek was the easy part.  A 4 hour walk down the 1200m canyon.  Covered in cloud at the top but still very impressive polychrome rock.  Not the sheer cliffs of the Grand Canyon but still very steep mountainsides.  The Colca river cutting an impressive meandering line through the middle.  Dave and I spotted our 1st condor before Alvaro said it was not the best time of year to spot them. Pretty steady walk down to the bottom but then needed to climb 500m back up to our overnight accommodation.  Needing to cross a thin but fast flowing river in which several of us nearly went in, we started back uphill when the rain hit.  1st proper drenching of the South American adventure.  All of us trudged on in silence. However made it up to our accommodation which was a converted mud barn outhouse with bamboo beds.  Pretty cool and enjoyed the sound of the rain pounding on the tin roof.  Had another great meal before a power cut at 8 meant an early night.

Up at 7 but after 10 hours sleep feeling great. Watched Alvaro cook breakfast in kitchen using open fire and managed to produce scrambled eggs and coca tea. Weather much better and Alvaro turned the 10 minute walk to the next village into 90 minutes by stopping every few minutes to talk about the vegetation and their medicinal properties. With the sky clear, got to appreciate the canyon at its best with one side an arid baron hillside with the opposite lush green jungle.  Got to see 5 condors including a pair.  When we finally reached the next village, greeted by a museum owner who allowed Alvaro to demonstrate the artifacts from cooking items to farming tools to clothes.  Plenty of stuffed animals as well.  Afterwards the owner insisted on us trying the infamous Chincha drink, drank by most labourers including the Inca Trail porters.  Its uniqueness is that it is unfermented but ferments in your stomach to keep you feeling drunk for over 24 hours.  2 sips was enough for me as it tasted of stale wheat beer.  Continued on walk down to bottom of canyon to an oasis paradise that has been turned into several basic hostels but did include a nice swimming pool for us to make use of, making up for the lack of showers. Relaxed in the sun and had lunch before the 1200m ascent. Given the backbreaking Dead Womans Pass of the Inca Trail being only 700m and took 4 hours, the prospect of needing to climb the 1200m in 3 hours was not too inviting.  However, far more easy than expected at a steady pace.  Dave claimed king of the canyon with me close behind.  Timed to perfection as the rain closed in again as we hit the top.  The rest of the group trudged in later having got soaked again. Got taken to a local restaurant for dinner that was probably the worst food of the trip with Right Said Fred playing in the background and a 13 year old barman.

With the trekking over, the last day of the trek was a 20 minute trip to a condor viewing area.  Neil and I were ready for the bus that turned up 15 minutes early.  The rest of the group were crushed standing at the front of the bus.  The viewing was a little disappointing as saw only 3 condors from a distance. Got the next bus back which goes down as the busiest bus ever with locals standing 3 abreast in the aisle.  Those of us with seats still not comfy as had 2 people each just about sitting on our knee.  Buffet lunch and found the new David Oxley in the guise of 8 plates Dave Salad. The food was excellent so I didn´t do too bad myself.  Turned down the chance to go to the thermal springs which was soon vindicated as it bombed down with hailstones.  Instead our group went to the bus terminal where Neil and Justine taught us all the card game "shithead". I produced the toilet paper for the crown which I soon regretted as I was loser of the last game and had to wear the crown on the 3 hour bus journey back to Arequipa.  

Another great trip.

In the morning we went to a view point where you could see Condors (very large birds indeed!).  We were fortunate enough to see 6 all at once.  They didnt come close enough for a decent photo though!!  Then we went to the hot springs where the water is 30-40 degrees.  This was heaven ... but irritated the bites!!  We had a buffet lunch which was verynice & then it was off to Arequipa to join in the New Year's Eve celebrations!!  We'd booked into The Point as a few people off the Inca trail were there (which later found out theyd checked out as it was that bad!!).  I was dreading it being full of 18yr old drunken kids, but it was dead when we checked in!!

I was dreading today as I knew that because we had come down yesterday, today, the only was UP!!!  We visited the Oasis (swimming complex) where we all got eaten alive by sand flies!!  Ooooh, the pain & annoyance. After lunch it was time for the up, up, up part!!  After being behind all morning & being in the fastest group ever, I opted for the mule! (so did Megan!).  A bit of a cop out, but the thought of climbing 1000m in about 30 seconds wasnt that appealing!  Id have still been there tomorrow!  The group made it up in 2hrs when The Lonely Planet says around 3-4!

Our hostel was great & we got to have a shower!  At least tomorrow is just sitting on a bus ...!

Yet another early start for what seems like another few torturous days!!  There were 7 in our group.  Again I was in a group which could qualify for the olympics!!!  Day 1 was ok as it was mainly walking down to the village where we were staying.  The accommodation was great, with amazing views of the canyon walls!

Oh, to describe it in one word, amazing. The most beautiful thing you can see. The nature is gorious, the people are real peruvian people with real clothes. If you ever need a tourguide, just ask for Omar, he's amazing. You should be aware that you are climbing 2000 metres to the above, maybe even more and at one point you are at 5000 metres above sealevel. I became quiet sick, but than sweet Omar gave me some coca - leves. Now the secret is, to chew on cocaleaves, isn't the best tast, so he had this perfect idea and he gave us tastfull gum and then the coca - leaves. So you really don't tast it that much. Some people get sick, others just unwell and others don't feel a think. Just make sure you go up slowly. It's not safe to go up so fast. For the rest, Colca Canyon is one of the most beautiful things you can see. You can even see Condors here.

We were picked up by our tour guide from our hostal.. jumped on a bus and travelled 6 hours. What a bumpy road, but not as bad as San Agustin in Colombia that´s for sure!!

There were 3 other girls on the tour, all French and really nice. It always makes a tour like this far more interesting when you have people that are really easy to get on with and fun! Our original tour guide had to leave as he had an emergency and we were introduced to our new (and much younger) tour guide Evan.

Day One
The first day was mostly downhill and was at times windy, meaning lots of dust! We walked for about 4 hours, which Evan said was quick as others do it in 5 hours. Our accommodation for the night was at a nice lodge, filled with flowers. The rooms themselves were rustic and this added to the atmosphere for the place. They also had hot pools, so Nathan and I clambered down to them, sore feet and legs. They were so nice and soothing! Dinner was average, we met an Italian couple and also two German girls, really friendly and we talked a bit before going to bed.


Day Two
We woke about 5am as we were suppose to be leaving at 6am. We ended up leaving about 7am as breakfast wasn´t ready. We had to do some uphill walking today which made it hard on the legs! We passed a small village and cemetery before the sun really kicked in. It was so hot, and it was nice to finally arrive at the ´Oasis´ which was our accommodation for the night. It was similar to the night before, but more basic and they had a swimming pool. We had a wee sleep for a bit before having a swim and doing some much needed sunbathing!! Lunch and dinner were average again, the Peruvians love their rice and fried chips! They eat them with every meal I swear! Met some great people again, two germans and a canadian couple - great company. It´s nice to finally meet some people again, we havent really met any fun and interesting people since Colombia!!


Day Three
We were up at 2.30am this morning. It was hell! It was pitch black and we had to set off with torches at 3am so we would make it by 6am to the top where we would have breakfast. We had to leave early due to the heat and wind. It was quite hard, harder than I had imagined. Nathan found it easier than he had thought. I was starving, and was getting a bit clumsy at times and I think the altitude got to me a little also. It was all uphill walking, although the track was good. Once at the top though it was beautiful. It had been nice to watch the sun rise (it rose about 5am).

We had breakfast and then got on a bus to Cruz del Condor. It was full of artisans and I bought some necklaces. We didn´t see any condors though, however we did see one in Nazca and they are quite ugly! Back on the bus again to Chivay where we had a drink with the French and German girls. Back on the bus again for the 4 hour journey to Arequipa.... what a day! Once back we had an overnight bus to Cuzco so it was a full-on day!

The tour was OK, we saw some amazing scenery and met some lovely people. Our guide was probably a bit too young, he left us at times and we were walking on our own and at times we didn´t know what we were suppose to be doing! Nevermind though we both enjoyed it and are glad we decided to do it in the end!

I didnt really know what to expect on our trip to Colca De Canyon. Well, I knew it would be deep, and I knew there would be big birds, but other than that...it was an adventure waiting to be had.

We booked a 3d-2n tour with Land Adventures ($US60), through our hostel (El Caminante Class) in Arequipa and that turned out to be a stroke of genius. We were met at 6:30am by our tour guide Nestor (absolute legend!) and whisked off to the bus station in the back of one of the crazy little taxis. There we jumped on a bus with a combination of locals and a couple of other tour groups, for a 4 hour slog to the a small village called Cabanaconde and the beginning of our trek. I think part of the charm of the whole trip was that we used local transport, we slept in local's houses, we ate the same food that the locals ate and Nestor, our guide, actually grew up in the area so he knew it (and the people) like the back of his hand.

Arriving at Cabanaconde, we jumped of the bus and were aquainted with the other members of our group - Mark (Ireland), Daniel (UK) and Gilliam (French Canadian), nice and small, just the way it should be. We walked about 500m to the edge of the canyon where the view was absolutely staggering. 1 km wide and 3 km deep, with a river running through the bottom, the canyon weaved its way through the landscape as far as the eye could see. Along the cliff/hillside on the other side of the canyon were dotted small communities where the land was flat enough to allow building and towering above everything were huge snowcapped peaks....talk about awe-inspiring.

Our mission for the rest of the day was to make it down to the bottom and about half way up the other side to a small village, which we could just make out from our vantage point, where we would sleep for the night. Zig zagging our way down a gravelly track on an almost sheer cliff face we met a constant stream of mule trains and their owners making their way up, loaded with corn and potatoes to sell in Cabancondor. Small children were also making the ascent, returning to Cabanaconde for the start of the school week. It was very humbling, these small children, making a 3 hour vertical climb just to go to school....and they were running it in sandals!! Nestor was constantly pointing out interesting bits of information, basically every type of plant that we came across could be used for something - medicinal, food, flavouring, pigment for creating dyes, insect repellent - who would have thought such damn ugly plants would be so useful??!

We eventually made it to the bottom of the canyon to be treated to a stunning sunset above. The unfortunate part was that as soon as the sun goes down it gets dark very quickly, and stupid Westerners who dont bring torches then have to walk in the dark. With three torches amongst us, we eventually made it to our very basic accommodation for the night and treated to yep, you guessed it, soup followed by chicken and rice!!

The next day we were up early and making our way horizontally across the canyon wall to our lunchtime destination which just happened to be an oasis on the river, complete with an awesome pool....just what the doctored ordered!! Following a couple of hours of R&R we were back hiking again and unfortunately in the upwards direction. It took basically 2.5 hours of steady walking to make the top (Gilliam made it in 1 hr 50!!), but it was a bloody good feeling and again the sunset turned it on for us. Nestor reckoned that his record was 45 minutes and I wouldnt doubt him for a second, as well as being a bush-tucker man come crazy herbal witch doctor dude, he was also a machine!!

That night just happened to be Mothers day (same day as in Australia which is crazy) so Nestor ducked off to see his Mum while we settled in for some more chicken and rice and a good old Bee Gees karoake night on a very old and very small television. Good times. The next day was Condor watching day. Very exciting. We arrived quite early in the morning at a spot in the Canyon where Condors (what is the term for a group of Condors by the way?) can be seen using the updrafts. Well if this wasnt tourist central!! Again nature more than made up for the mass tourism, with these huge birds putting on an absolute show. It was really an amazing sight and a great way to finish of the trip.

Big thumbs up to Nestor and Land Adventure, very tidy work!! A big shout out to the guys on our trip as well, nice meeting you chaps!!