We arrived in Belmopan just before dark, and Bert, the taxi driver, hit us up immediately.  I told him i wanted cheap accommodations so he took us to Eastern Guesthouse, run by "chinaman".  The rooms were very basic, but the price was decent.  49 BZD for a double room with a shower but no air condition.  After we settled in, we immediately went for a walk about.  We got near the bus station and Bert spotted us, and told us he knew where to take us.  He dropped us off at La Cabana for free.  We had some local beer, Belkin stout, and some local soup, that apparently was for hangovers, but they seemed to out of everything else on the menu.  Soup was good, however, they simply dropped half a chicken into broth with onions and spices.

We had the bar call Bert to pick us up and take us to the Bullfrog, which we were told would be hopping.  No such luck, but we had some more beers and met a dude from the states living and working in Belize.  After that we walked home without any incident.

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Playa del Carman to Belize City [Planned]

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ALTUN HA Altun Ha, “Rockstone Pond”, is the most easily accessed Mayan center in Belize and a nice place to spend a couple of hours on a cruise shore excursion. It is also one of the most famous Mayan centers and the most extensively-excavated Maya site in Belize. Altun Ha has 13 structures clustered within two central plazas. Plaza A is enclosed by large temples on all four sides. Here, a magnificent tomb was discovered beneath The Temple of the Green Tomb. Dating from 550 A.D., this find yielded a total of thee hundred pieces, including jade, jewelry, stingray spines, skin flints and the remains of a Maya Book. The adjacent Plaza B is dominated by the sites largest temple, The Temple of Masonry Altar, which rises 60 feet above the plaza and was the last in a sequence of buildings raised on this spot. This temple was probably the main focus of religious ceremonies, with a single stairway running up the front to an altar at the top. Inside, several priestly tombs were discovered. One of these digs yielded a priceless carved jade head of Kinich Ahau, the Maya sun god. At 15 cm high, it is the largest carved jade piece to be found anywhere in the Maya world. Belize is my favorite country in the Western Hemisphere. There are better places to soak in the flavor of this Central American paradise; however, a visit to Altun Ha is worthwhile destination for those who appreciate the Mayan culture.

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My mom, my sister and I met up in Belize for a week-long vacation. The tiny Central American country has a reputation for excellent natural preserves (both above and below the ocean), and fantastic Mayan cities. We were psyched for both! We flew in to Philip S.W. Goldson International Airport, the only international airport in Belize. It is very small, but there's a restaurant and a bank, and several stores. We arrived around noon, so we had a bite to eat at the restaurant before continuing on. In contrast with the U.S., the airport food is actually quite good!

We didn't dally in Belize City, but got a cab directly from the airport to the Marine Terminal. From there, it was a 45 minute trip by speed boat (the water taxis) to Caye Caulker. We chose this caye because of it's reputation for being laid back and slow going ("Go Slow" is actually their motto). It's not the place for a wild nightlife (go to San Pedro/Ambergris Caye for that), but we were all about relaxing on this trip. There's very little traffic, mostly golf carts and bicycles. I think we saw a total of three automobiles during our entire 4 day stay. We did see one golf cart with ground effects. Sort of "Pimp My Cart" action. : D

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Carnival no longer offered the Shark Ray Alley snokle. After reading it was one of the best dive spots I wanted to see it. So I found a private  tour company owned by Americans, but run by locals in Belize, called Coral breeze Limited see www.coralbreezelimited.com. Our ship tendered off shore and we were late getting into the tourist village. I was a bit concerned but quickly saw people with Coral Breeze Limited signs they were holding up, they waited for us. The first group was for White Water rafting but they told me where I could meet my group. Our tour guides were wonderful on the boat ride to Caye Cauker they showed us a map of Belize and pointed out places of interest, answered our questions and seemed to love their country. We went to Shark Ray alley first. Not much for coral but they reved the motor on the boat and within minutes hundreds of stingrays were swimming all around waiting to be fed. The guides feed some squid and I jumped into to snorkle with these curious amazing animals. Then we went to another site on the coral reef, beautiful fish everywhere, lots of snorklers and other groups were here, too many ignorant people do not follow instructions and swim to close to each other or kick their legs too much scaring the fish away. The trick to snokling is to float on the water like a dead thing then you see all sorts of fish. I did this and had to swim a bit to catch up to my group, having visions of Open Water the film in fresh in mind! We then headed to Caye Cauker for a nice buffet lunch. I think it was chicken with beans and rice, very tasty. I laid on the beach walked a bit snapped some photos and headed back for the boat. The only problem were some people were running late exploring the Island, this is not cool to people who are on cruise ships because if we don't make it back to our ship on time it sails without us! After a few nerve wracking minutes they made it back. We got our boat back to the tourist village. I wanted to shop but figued I better not risk it it was late so I caught what turned out to be the second to last ferry boat back to my cruise ship! It was over all a wonderful day and experiance.

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Pictures from the start of the tour to Altun Ha.  This is near Belize City as you enter the Belize River, headed to the Northern River and the Bomba Village. 

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Drove right through Belize City.  Only stop was to drop people off and pile more on the bus.  I'd spent a couple days diving there before.  I'm glad we arrived during the day.  Did a lap around town and picked up some more people and off to the border.   Last time I was in Belize City I was the only gringo on the chicken bus and I got dropped off at night downtown.  Luckily no issues.

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Today we are leaving. It has been a great trip and we have done so many fun things. We decide to do one last thing before we leave. At the time, I had no idea how memorable this day would be.

Since we all had some long flights ahead, we thought it would be a terrific idea to end our trip with a relaxing massage. Last night, at our condo, Janene sees a flyer for a spa in Belize city that looks intruiging. Our condo makes the arrangements, and we are set.

We have to wake up super early in the morning to get to the spa on time. It's early, and I am tired. The water taxi arrives to pick us up to take us to the airport just after the sun rises. We get to the airport and fly to the mainland with no problems. (No death defying flights this time, folks!) The driver from the Marumba Spa and Resort picks us up from the airport and transports us to the spa. It is situated just outside the city of Belize in the middle of nowhere. Our driver entertains us with stories on the way, until we arrive.

As we walk into this stunning resort we are greeted by a beautiful woman complete with complimentary cocktails. Thank goodness! I think I am going to like this place. We relax on the comfy couches and read about all of the treatments offered.

I am always one to order the "house specialty" in a restaurant, so I ask the women what the "signature treatment" is. She tells us that the Mood Mud Massage and Killer Bee Honey Scrub package complete with a gourmet lunch is the most popular treatment. At less than $200 a person, this is a steal!

Since we have to break up into pairs, and Janene has been a great date we look at each other and roll our eyes. For sure Jon and Kara, the couple, will get some sexy-time together. At least we hope so...

When we are ready, the woman leads us all through the resort and Janene and I take our leave of Jon and Kara. We enter the room in which we are going to get our treatments, and it is soothing and simple. There are big fluffy white robes for us to change into. Before the woman leave, she hands each of us this tiny little wrapped up packet and asks us to put them on. Janene and I look at each other, curious, and say "ok."

So, the woman leaves, and we open up the little packets she gave us, and there is a teeny-tiny paper thong inside. Are we really supposed to wear this? Seriously? After fits of nervous laughter, we put them on and crack up. So much for relaxing. This is the funniest thing I have ever seen! It doesn't even cover anything. This is funnier than being naked! Then I starting thinking about Jon in the other room and what he has to say about all this. (He is a pretty conservative, quiet guy.) Like, "Hey baby, check out my banana boat."

After we calm down, we lay down on the two massage tables, face down. The women quietly comes in and asks if either of us would mind having a male masseuse. Neither of us cares, and I say that I will take him. (Men are stronger anyways, and usually give better massages in my experience.)

I close my eyes and relax. I hear my manly masseuse enter the room and he comes over. He starts to massage me in mud. My legs, back...everything. It is super relaxing and my mind just empties.

After quite some time, the masseuse quietly asks me to turn over. "Turn over?" Im thinking. Hmmmmm.... I have no top on?!?! I sneak a peek at Janene and she looks at me with a funny look on her face. Well, when in Rome... I turn over on the table with a nervous giggle. Its a little cold in there, especially with the mud!

So, at this point, I get my first look at my masseuse. He looks just like Ron Jeremy. No, seriously, he does. Now, the giggles start. I have never had a strange man rub mud on my chest before. It's kinda funny, really funny. Janene starts snorting-apparantly she saw Ron Jeremy too. Now, don't get me wrong. He was a really good masseuse. I just couldn't help myself.

Since we are trying not to crack up, our masseuses start to have fun with us. They put mud all over our faces and in our hair. I close my eyes and feel my hair being pushed into a crazy mohawk with the mud. Next, I feel what seems like paint, splattered all over my body and then some flowers strategically placed in all the right locations.

They invite us to stand and we take some of the silliest pictures I have ever taken. They are a little embarrasing, since we are practically naked, but really funny.

We are then led outside and down a path to this huge stone tubs. The female masseuse instructs us to get in and dumps lukewarm water all over us to wash off the mud. Janene can't stop laughing. Uhhhh... I know we are friends and all, but I have never been in a tub with another girl before!  Awkward....

After we wash off the grime, we go back into the hut and get the Killer Bee Honey Scrub. Our bodies are slathered in Belizian honey and sprinkled with sugar and scrubed into our skin. This is doing wonders for my mosquitoe bites and a I sneak a taste of the honey-its good!

We wash off again in the stone tub and change into our bikini's and robes. My skin is bright pink from the Sugar Rub, and I feel great. We meet Jon and Kara in the lobby for our lunch which is delicious. One last dip in a couple of the heated pools on the property and we change to head home.

The ride back is quiet as we get to the airport. We are relaxed and ready to go. I take my leave of my friends and head home. Its been a great trip-full of some really funny and memorable experiences. Can't wait to do it again!

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Woke up early- a few minute before 6am. We rolled out of bed and walked down to the end of the ocean pier to watch our last sunrise on Caye Caulker. Soon after we gathered our bags, left our key in the hotel room, and headed 2 piers over to the catch the Triple J ferry back to Belize City.

Mama dog caught up with us as we were walking toward the pier and stuck by our side from then on. I rubbed her ears and told her how sorry I was for her circumstances. She licked my cheek in understand and nuzzled up next to me as I sat on the pier. There we waited, her, Jon, and myself for the water taxi. I snapped a few pictures of her and she walked us right down to the very end of the pier when the boat arrived. I gave her a big hug and wished her well.

The boat ride was uneventful and 45 minutes later we were back in Belize City. We did pass by 3 large cruise ships docked far offshore.

Once we docked we sat in the Triple J terminal and read for about 30 minutes before we set off to explore the southside of Belize City and pick up a few last minute gifts for friends and family. A bottle of Belize rum for some friends, more hot sauce for us and family, etc. We wandered back over to Dit's and enjoyed lunch there again. Stewed chicken and rice and beans just as before.

We picked up a taxi to the airport. The driver had strong political opinions on the corruption of the PUP and we were treated his political narrative. For the sake of the good people of Belize we hope the UDP wins the upcoming elections.

Once at the airport we were surprised to bump into our friends from Minnesota that we had met at the Trek Stop. Turns out they were on our flight back to Atlanta. Jon and I got into an arguement because he wanted me to throw away my 3 remaining oranges and I wanted to take them back home. He was afraid customs would hold us up. Over oranges? Please. He also got upset with me for checking the "yes" box to indicate I had close contact with livestock. Lets see, I petted every cow, horse and donkey tied up along the roadside in Cayo. I think that counts.

Let me tell you about the police state that is customs! Turns out they were freaked out by my 3 meager oranges and confiscated them. They said it was to prevent the spread of disease but I think if that were so they would have a box on the customs form that says "Do you have any communicable diseases?"  Clearly they are only really concerned with preventing orange crop diseases and not people devestating diseases. (Edit: I did research after arriving home and found out that customs is very strict on citrus because some years ago 1 orange brought into the USA spread a horrific orange crop disease that wiped out 3/4 of the industry. oops.)

I cried a lot on the flight home thinking about the poverty we had witnessed on the trip. What can I do about it? How can I make a difference? I need to research this when I get home.

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This morning we were up by 7am to check out of the Trek Stop and take the local bus to Belize City. We had a quick breakfast of cereal, settled our account, and were on our way. The bus was packed. It was a 3 hour ride to go only 60 miles because the bus stops frequently. In comparison it took only an hour to get to the Trek stop from Belize City when the guide from Maya Walk picked us up on Sunday. But we chose the bus this time because it is only $6BZ per person.

We enjoyed a homeade tamale wrapped in a banana leaf instead of corn husk at the bus stop in Belmopan. Belmopan is the capitol of Belize. It used to be Belize City, but after the last big hurricane in the 60s the capital was moved to the country's interior.

Finally in Belize city we took a taxi to the water taxi station and stored our bags in a locker at the station while we toured the city on foot. Belize city is very run down. There is a stinky trashed canal in the middle of the city. Overall the city is just a industrialized version of the rural poverty we'd seen in the Cayo district. We went to the museum of Belize but it was closed on weekends so we just walked down to the lighthouse and took in the sight of the ocean.

We had a late lunch at DIT's, which was another recommendation from my guidebook. I have to say the Moon guidebook has turned out to be a wise investment. It has not steered us wrong yet. DIT's served up fantastic rice and beans with stewed chicken and the single best coconut pie I have ever had. This was not coconut cream pie- no, this was all coconut pie. So delicious and rich.

We took the 1:30pm water taxi to Caye Caulker and thus began the second chapter of our Belize trip: ocean experience. Caye Caulker is a small fishing village that most tourists sidestep as they choose to stay in San Pedro on Amberius Caye. San Pedro is much more touristy and expensive. Caye Caulker is a combination of the same ramshackle houses seen in the rest of Belize and low cost relaxed vibe bars and restaurants with sand floors and swing and hammock chairs. Fresh fruit drinks too. Jon and I found it funny to be in a place where the liquor flows so cheap and freely yet we don't drink much.

We got off the water taxi and made our way to our hotel- The Tropics Hotel. The office was bright and cherry but the room was extremely disappointing. Run down, matresses way past their prime to the point of painful, leaking ceiling in the bathroom and a general mildew smell. Worse we were told there were no more rooms to choose from and no refunds.Gah. Avoid this place like the plague if you come here!!!

It was a bright sunny day though so we didn't let the hotel situation get us down. We are in paradise!

We walked most of the island. History of the island and details on the island's geological features can be found here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caye_Caulker

It was so nice to relax. We went swimming off the end of the pier across from our hotel. The only nice thing about our hotel is that it is directly across the street from the ocean. And that it's only $30US/night.

We window shopped on the way to dinner. There are a lot of stray dogs here as in the Cayo district of Belize but at least these are much healthier. They are apparently fed by the tourists and have meat on their bones- no ribs showing. We stopped for appetizers- Conch fritters- an island speciality. I didn't care for them much but you've got to try everything at least once right? Dinner was at Syd's restaurant- another guidebook recommendation. Saturday is BBQ night all over the island. The restaurants all bring out the grills and cook up some great BBQ. We had BBQ chicken quarters that were served with coleslaw, potatoes, baked beans and plantain. All this for $4 US. Gotta love Belize prices. We sat outside by the fountain at Syd's and it was great.

After dinner, Jon was feeling pretty tired so he went to bed. I walked around, dropped in on a PUP rally (the PUP is the party in power of the goverment right now and very corrupt. The party running against them in the upcoming election is the UDP and for the sake of all Belizians I hope they win). The PUP folks were giving out free liquor and t-shirts. I also got hit on a lot - common if you are a female walking alone. I fed some of the stray dogs and listened to the happy reggae music before finally going to bed.

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We arrived in Belize city after a non-stop chicken bus ride from Mexico. No more luxury buses with toilets and tv's. Belize City was not very nice. We stayed in an ok hostel made very interesting by the people who lived and worked there. Danny inparticular a guy from Trinidad who had been a US marine then a body builder with 19.5'' arms who wore womens perfume and shaved all body hair proved the source of endless entertainment- the never ending rum helped him i think. Then there was an old guy - Mr Wilson. He had so many stories about being a logger and driving in the jungle. The sad thing was we couldn't really understand that much of what he was saying but what we could was very interesting. We didn't stay long there and decided we would come back specifically to go to the Cayes and dive the blue hole.

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Going from Belize City to Ambergris by water taxi takes 1 h 15 min to 1 h 45 min and can be very nauseating if the weather is rough. We took Mayan Air which flies out of Belize City to various locations in Belize like Ambergris, Caulker Caye, Dangrigia, and Placencia. If you want to save time and don't want to find out if you get sea sick easily, take the plane. Mayan Air uses Cessna C208 Caravan 10-seaters and it takes only 15 minutes to get from Belize City to Ambergris. Expect to pay 80 USD/ 160 BZ for a round trip. If you are heading to Belize Int'l Airport upon return, planes also land there, instead of at the private runway outside of the Int'l airport. Inquire about that when you book your tickets. Note: WATCH YOUR BAGGAGE GET ON THE PLANE. Our bags arrived on three separate planes after we landed, so we had to wait about 45 mins after our plane landed to get all our bags. This wasn't such a problem because we were in no rush to get to the hotel. But if it's busy and people have lots of luggage and you've got a flight to catch at the International Airport, I'd be pushy about getting your bags on the plane you'll be sitting on. But if you like playing Russian Roulette.... Also - another competitor airline is Tropic Air. You'll see Tropic Air kiosks wherever there is a Mayan Air kiosk. I imagine they offer very similar schedules/rates.

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So this was our first Day and night in Belize. We start off by just settling down, putting everything away in our cabins, then goin for a lil talk about our upcoming trip. After that we go for dinner before going for a special offer of going to the zoo for a nocturnal visit. It was great. you were really able to see what the animals acted like when they weren't truley disturbed by humans visiting them and making lots of noise. The Howler Monkeys were a real treat, hearing them Howl as they do.

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We caught the 6am bus Playa del Carmen to Chetumal (after finding out at 5:30am that it left from another terminal 10 blocks away and having to walk there with our backpacks because we had completely spent all our Mexican Pesos) and got there without problem. At ADO bus terminal in Chetumal the Belizean Novelos bus is already waiting for you when you get there and they quickly usher you into their bus so you continue without much delay.

The border crossing into Belize was pretty straightforward and uneventful. The only annoyance was a 10USD fee each to exit Mexico which I wasn't sure about but which I think might be due to a misunderstanding and might have been for a multiple entry visa for Mexico which we didn't really need or want. Anyway, it was easier to just pay it and go on.

The bus to Belize wasn't as nice as our Mexican buses but still good and we got to Belize City without problems. Being our first country after Mexico it was very interesting to see how different Belize is. Everything was in English although spanish is also spoken and especially street vendors might also have spanish signs.

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We were told not to walk around after dark so we retired to our relatively expensive hotel with a giant box of soft dough chocolate chip cookies and spent the evening watching american satelite television (first TV we had watched in over a month and quite fascinating window into american culture - I think it was a couple of days before thanksgiving so we saw all the advertising for that as well as the general level of advertising on their programs which is huge and really annoying).

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The second half of our all day excursion to the ruins - we combined it with a cave tubing tour.  It was awesome but too much to combine on one day....we were late getting back and missed the first cave.  And do not take a digital camera...even if it doesn't fall and get wet - the humidity and moisture in the cave ultimately led to the demise of my new camera! :-(

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