People i met here who contributed to, and improved my trip:

I woke up later than expected on Thursday and had the decision of whether i could be bothered to go to Suwon or if i was going to spend the day trying to catch up with my travel blog, which was slowly but surely not getting updated enough! Thankfully the sensible and active side of my brain kicked into action and i found myself aboard the subway a little after 13.00 and on my way.

Something always strikes me as both peculiar and funny aboout Koreans on the subway. Basically they will all rush to get a seat, but whenever they reach an empty seat next to me, there's a look of desperation and 99% of the time they just turn around and stand somewhere else! The people seem absolutely petrified to sit next to a Westerner, and usually it will be some old man or woman that has probably fought in a great war that musters up the courage to take up the challenge and plonk themsleves down :p Bless them.

The previous night i had been to watch FC Seoul play Suwon in the football and after a quick look in my book i realised that they had a World Cup stadium also, so plans of walking around the walled city were immediately put on hold! The tourism office by the station were incredibly helpful and gave me a map, cards with Korean writing on to show bus drivers and all the relevant information i needed to co-ordinate my trip there. I was soon on a bus heading into the suburbs and within no time found myself outside the Suwon Football Stadium.

After paying 1,000 won ($1), a nice man showed me into the football museum, which had an interesting collection of memorablia. Things which caught my eye included boots worn by David Beckham and a shirt worn by Luis Figo. There were many more fascinating things too, but i won't go into too much detail or bore you any further! In the 2002 World Cup, games that took place here included Brazil 5-2 Costa Rica, Spain 1-1 Republic Of Ireland, Senegal 3-3 Uruguay and USA 3-2 Portugal, so the hallowed turf had seen many famous names do their stuff here.

After 30 minutes wandering around the museum, i was ready to go and take a look inside the ground and figured i would just get shown into the seating section. But the nice man instead walked me down the players tunnel and took me pitch side, where i got to pose for photos and sit in the managers dug out! It was a very nice experience and i always get a buzz with pretty much anything to do with football - or soccer as you silly Americans choose to call it, pfff.

So after receiving my football fix for the day, i caught the bus down to Paldalmun Fortress Gate, from where i began my walk around Hwaseong - Suwons fortress wall. The wall stretches for 5.7kms and begins with a steady climb up to 143m, where there are some nice panormaic viewes on offer. The wall has been fully restored over recent years, but it does nothing to take away from its beauty and charm.

At regular intervals the wall has observation towers, command posts, fire beacons and a few very impressive entrance gates. I spent nearly 3 hours clambering my way up and down steps and i was in my element, i absolutely loved this place! Many of the passers by had a smile and a polite bow to exchange with you and i just couldn't stop grinning like an idiot! Why was i the only foreigner there, why wasn't this place clambering with national and international tourists? Im damned if i know the answer to that, because i was blown away by it.

Some of the views of the city were also enchanting, with one towering church dominating a section of the skyline. There were also smaller churches and a mosque that were on view as well as the World Cup Stadium. But what really struck me was the contrast between new and old. Towering skyscrapers rose above the small tiled roofs of older buildings and the mixture was something to behold. I thought Korea wouldn't have much to see or do, but my first week in the country had made me eat my words and i was now just itching to get to see some more! I had a date with Soju back in Seoul, so i caught the subway back to the capital around 18.30, drawing to an end a thoroughly fascinating and enjoyable day trip.

So the week after my training ended I wanted to go to the school a couple times during the week and see what it was like actually teaching all the stuff i just crammed into my brain.  Then spend the rest of the week getting my apartment together, prepping my classes, and finding out where things were in town.  Lets just say that my franchise had something different in mind.

The Friday night I got in they set me down and told me how a lot of the things I was taught they didn't do, or that they did differently.  After that they asked if I wanted to go out to dinner.  I politely declined because all I really wanted to do was go to sleep.  I get to my apartment and to be honest it scared the living daylights out of me.  The entrance wasn't lit and I dont get off work till 10 and then I still have paperwork and dinner with coworkers so most nights I don't get home till after midnight.  Then the apartment was dirty.  Food had been left in the cabinets and fridge smelled like something died in it.  It was cold because they hadn't turned of the heat and I was tired.  I pulled out my blanket and pillow that I had brought from home and laid down.  It was about at this time that everything hit me.  

I was in a foreign country for a year, there was a good chance I might hate my job, and I MOST definitely hated my apartment.  One of the cools things about South Korea is the floors in most apartments are heated.  I couldnt stay warm on the bed so I pulled my blanket down to the floor and sleep there the first night.  Actually I cried myself to sleep the first night.  That morning I woke up, back hurting and eyes bloodshot red then proceeded to cry some more.  I found some free wireless and I emailed my family to let them know I had passed training.  I then cried again.  That weekend was kind of blurry because I spent most of it with tears in my eyes. 

Shawdowing wasn't too bad.  I tried not to look like too much of a new teacher, otherwise the kids will chew you up and spit you out. 

This past Saturday I met up with my friends Alex and Ryan, and a few of their friends, to head down to Suwom to hike and explore their famed fortress walls -- called Hwaseong. The pictures are featured prominently in all the guide books, and it looks like a very authentic and real experience, so I was very excited to go. The walls were started by King Jeonjo in the late 18th century, to honor and house the remains of his father Prince Sado, who was forced to commit suicide by being shut in a rice chest by King Yeongjo. Crazy.

These walls are really different from other Korean walls/gates because they were made after they had made initial contact with Europeans -- so different architectural themes were incorporated. There are four separate gates, North, East, South and West. Apparently when they built these gates they were also thinking about moving the capital from Seoul to Suwon.

After meeting up with the gang at the train station we settled in for the hour long train ride. They had only slept about 2 hours (and at a jimjilbang to boot!) from their escapades the night before ... but were still ready for the adventure. Once we arrived in Suwon, we stocked up on soju (because what is a hike though a Korean fortress without soju?) and then headed out. One girl in our group had chosen to wear three inch high heels to go hiking, so we actually had to traipse around Suwon searching for different shoes for her for a while. Anyways, after we'd gotten her situated we searched in vain for a while to find the gates, and then miraculously after two failed bus attempts, and standing around in the sunshine saying "Well I dunno..." Alex said, "Let's just walk this way." and lo and behold, there it was!

We climbed up to the top, and stopped every once in a while to admire the greenery and glorious views of the city. Seoul has about 7 trees, Suwon has more than that in a 3 meter plot!! The city actually didn't afford such great views, but set against the mountains it really made for a breathtaking sight. Once at the top we posed for pictures, and then walked most of the perimeter of the walls. Along the way we celebrated with shots of soju. We were even able to ring a MASSIVE bell -- bigger than my car at home!! To ring the ancient bells in Korea you take a big log and pull it back and then slam it into the side of the bell for a very gratifying CLANG noise. We sat in a little pagoda for a while discussing life and joking about Korea. I separated myself from the group for a moment when we were getting ready to leave, and stood looking out over the city. I just stared, awestruck, at the rest of the wall curving through the city, set against the backdrop of the mountains. I'm reading 'Eat Pray Love' right now, so I'm kind of in a zen mood ... and this really sent me over the edge. How great is this world that things like this can exist and experiences like this can happen? I wanted to stay until sunset, but we were all so hungry and SO cold that we decided to make our way down to find something to eat.

We wandered back to the train station, met up with some friends of my new acquaintances who live in Suwon, and then went in search of Indian food. We found a place pretty quickly, and then proceeded to wait nine years for our food. It was glorious when it finally arrived .....

We sat and chatted for hours, and enjoyed one another's company. I felt very blessed/humored by the whole day reflecting back on it ... It's not everyday that people from America, Canada, England and New Zealand get together in Korea to explore ancient fortresses, drink soju and eat Indian food. :)

Suwon was great. Meant to be a little town, but it was huge, it had all of those domino-style highrises that you see in South East Asian hubs.

I caught a taxi to the fortress. You would have thought that "free interpretation" on a taxi would imply English speaking, but sadly no. Maybe it meant Japanese? There are a few (only a few) Japanese tourists here, but almost no western tourists. Luckily I had a picture of the fortress in my book that I could point at. Surely Suwon doesn't have so many attractions that a World Heritage site isn't the obvious place to take someone?

Very odd, a World Heritage site with no souvenirs or postcards, no tourists, just some locals sitting quietly or doing exercises. Very novel. Very nice. The taxi driver dropped me off at the best bit (not the bit Lonely Planet mentioned). Beautiful wooded hills with ramparts and forts lining them, rising up to the summit of Mt Paldal. The rampart is 5.7km long. Hwaseong Fortress was built between 1794 and 1796 under the reign of King Jeongjo (in honour of his father killed by being locked up in a rice basket - such is life). 80% of the fortress is intact, and much was been restored, making it a very impressive structure. The city continues through the fortress, but along the walls you can pretend it doesn't. It looks quite like Tallinn, except with pagoda-style roofs on the fortifications. There are four Jeokdae (gateguard platforms), two observation towers, two Dongjangde (command posts), five firearms bastions, five sentry towers, five secret gates (what fortress is complete without secret gates? They were cool), two floodgates (the south was destroyed though), a beacon tower, two nodae (multiple-arrow launcher platforms and a 170m bastion. Only seven of the fortifications were destroyed. Walking up and down hills for several hours in 35 degree weather made me sweat litres *bleh* but I got to see cuckoos and this wonderful fortress. I also saw an odd squirrel. The only let down was the South Gate (that Lonely Planet recommends), designated National Treasure #402, as are most historical National Treasures that are now the centre of round-a-bouts *smile* Much preferred National Treasure #403. What are those beautiful Japanese trees that make up the woods?

Another subway trip, then a spare hour to have a shower and write.

Hwaseong Fortress is located in Suwon, Republic of Korea.  King Jeongjo (22nd King of the Joseon Dynasty) ordered construction to begin in January 1794 in order to honor and move the remains of his father, Crown Prince Jangheon (AKA Crown Prince Sado), from Yangju to Suwon.  Construction was completed in September 1796.  The short time in construction and the relative low price was attributed to Sihak (a new type of practical learning in the 18th Century).  During its construction, the Geojunggi (type of traditional Korean crane) was developed in order to transport the large stones.  The architecture combines Eastern and Western influence which sets it apart from other Korean buildings.  It consists of forty-eight facilities but seven facilities have not been restored due to destruction from Japanese colonial rule, WWII, and the Korean War. 

The pictures from the Paldalum up to the "Performances of 24 Martial Arts Demonstration" are arranged in a clockwise tour of the Fortress.  Hwaseong Haenggung and King Jeongjo's Bronze Statue are located in the central area of the fortress.  This was taken over two days (April 21st-22nd) due to the fact that I did not have a memory card for my camera and started a little late.  The walk around the fortress is almost 6 kilometers and it normally takes about 2 1/2 hours to walk. 

You can get to Hwaseong Fortress by taking the Blue Line/Line #1 and getting off at Suwon Station (stop P154).  From there you take the bus (#11, 13, 36, or 39) and it will drop you off at Paldalmun.  On the opposite side, the same bus lines will also take you back to Suwon Station.  Entry fee into Hwaseong Fortress is 1000 won (approximately $1) for adults, 700 won for youth, and 500 won for children.  Entry fee for Hwaseong Haenggung is 1500 won for adults, 1000 won for youth, and 700 won for children.  Groups of at least 30 get a reduced rate.  The fortress is open daily from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM but closed on Mondays.  There is a "Performance of 24 Martial Arts" show every morning at 11:00 AM.  The weekends has shows from the last weekend in March to November at 2:00 PM.  Saturdays feature a show composed of different genres centered on traditional performances that give Suwon's unique sights and activities.  Sundays feature the "Jang Yong Yeong (Royal Guards) Security Guards Ceremony". 

Official link:  http://ehs.suwon.ne.kr/asp/02/05.asp

NOTE:  On October 8th from 1000-1300 there is a re-enactment of King Jeongo's visit to his father's tomb.  The march covers some 8 kilometers and about 2000 marchers.  It is a reminder of "filial piety". 

Hwaseong Fortress is located in Suwon, Republic of Korea. King Jeongjo (22nd King of the Joseon Dynasty) ordered construction to begin in January 1794 in order to honor and move the remains of his father, Crown Prince Jangheon (AKA Crown Prince Sado), from Yangju to Suwon. Construction was completed in September 1796. The short time in construction and the relative low price was attributed to Sihak (a new type of practical learning in the 18th Century). During its construction, the Geojunggi (type of traditional Korean crane) was developed in order to transport the large stones. The architecture combines Eastern and Western influence which sets it apart from other Korean buildings. It consists of forty-eight facilities but seven facilities have not been restored due to destruction from Japanese colonial rule, WWII, and the Korean War. Entry fee into Hwaseong Fortress is 1000 won (approximately $1) for adults, 700 won for youth, and 500 won for children. Entry fee for Hwaseong Haenggung (which is in the central part of the Fortress) is 1500 won for adults, 1000 won for youth, and 700 won for children. Groups of at least 30 get a reduced rate. The fortress is open daily from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM but closed on Monday. There is a "Performance of 24 Martial Arts" show every morning at 11:00 AM. The weekends has shows from the last weekend in March to November at 2:00 PM. Saturdays feature a show composed of different genres centered on traditional performances that give Suwon's unique sights and activities. Sundays feature the "Jang Yong Yeong (Royal Guards) Security Guards Ceremony". The walk around the fortress is almost 6 kilometers and it normally takes about 2 1/2 hours to walk. NOTE: On October 8th from 1000-1300 there is re-enactment of King Jeongo's visit to his father's tomb. The march covers some 8 kilometers and about 2000 marchers. It is a reminder of "filial piety". I have 29 pictures from the Fortress on my travel blog "Land of the Morning Calm - Republic of Korea (July 2005 - July 2007)" located under Suwon.