So, after our helpx came to an end we headed north again.

Jen drove us to the train station where we parted ways regretfully. Jen was a great laugh, as nutty as a fruit cake and a really nice person to boot. Our destination now was Byron Bay, around two hours south of Brisbane. The train journey was ok, and we got to see brief glimpses of a mob of 'roos as we passed wooded areas. Our train terminated at Casino and we had to change onto a coach for the final leg to Byron.

We arrived and found our hostel without too much trouble, though we had to book into a dorm again as Byron is an expensive place to stay. Our dorm was a 12 bed female, and we quickly realised we would not beable to hold much interesting conversation with any of its occupants. The conversations we overheard “This dress is really nice but its a Saturday dress and we never go out on a Saturday” told us that the girls here were not very smart, very insipid and only interested in partying with the boys. After only one day I found myself wanting to throttle the lot of them!

We only had a few days in Byron which we found was enough, it was too much of a 'trendy' town for us. Everyone wanted to see and be seen, thinking their the bee's knees. We spent some time on the beach but the weather wasnt that great so on the second day we decided to walk up to Cape Byron, the most Easterly point of Australia (without getting wet that is). We wandered along the walking track, which took us up and down the cliff facing the beach, passing a group of older surfers that were having some sort of competition. It was nice to see that you dont need to be in perfect physique to enjoy surfing. It took us almost an hour to get up to Cape Byron (named after Captain Cook's Grandfather) but the view was incredible, and we even saw a pod of dolphins. On the way back down we got to see an even more incredible sight, the pod of dolphins began to wave surf, riding the crest of the waves into shore like a surfer (but far more elegantly!). We were stunned by the obvious fun they were having, just larking about in the surf like a group of kids, it was really beautiful to see and for that reason we have no photos as neither of us wanted to miss a second by hunting for the camera.

i haven't writen anything in a very long time. sorry!!
after the whitsundays we went to fraser island and did a 2 night 3 day self drive 4x4. it was pretty awesome. after that we went to brisbane and stayed with a family melissa lived with for 2 months in march. while we were there there was an amazing storm! it was the worst they have had in 25 years apperently. after brisbane we went to surfers paradise and spent almost a week there. we went to dreamworld and wetnwild.. 2 of the 4 theme parks on the gold coast. they were awesome! now we are in byron bay! its awesome here. there are so many canadians. we are staying in a really nice hostel too. there were no dorm beds left so we got our own little apartment. there are 6 people in it and we get our own kitchen and tv and everything. its pretty awesome. on sunday night we are taking an overnight but to sydney.
here are some pictures.
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=184003&l=c41bf&id=668140384
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=184011&l=ea12b&id=668140384
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=184016&l=71c88&id=668140384
enjoy!

After leaving Jen's and Wingham, we went further North to Byron Bay.

We arrived at the hostel in the evening to find it FULL of young, idiot girls, the kind of girls who Pink sang about in her song 'stupid girls'. They were all giggly, wandering around in nothing but bikinis and agonising over whether a saturday night dress could actually be worn on a different day of the week, oh joy. Leaving the hostel for the beach the following morning, we quickly established that the whole of Byron was like that. The shops and cafes were very expensive and full of pristine looking people, clearly wearing the correct dress on the day that nature intended.

We spent quite a bit of time reading books by the beach, being slightly terrorised by seagulls. Byron is very money driven, plenty of shops and expensive tours to occupy your time and wallet, which didn't leave us a huge number of options. Although free meals at the hostel free-ed (??) up a couple of dollars for a cheeky beer or 2 in the eveing.

One thing we did really want to do was the walk up to Cape Byron, the most easterly point in Australia. According to our guide book, the Australians thought that Captain Cook had named it after the poet, and so named the street names accordingly (Shelley etc), whereas it was actually named after his grandfather! We knew it was going to be a long walk, so packed suitable provisions (forgot food and water but was carrying a heavy book) and headed in the general direction. Fortunatly for us it wasn't long before there were signposts showing us the way! The walking track wound round the headland, giving us wonderful views of the different beaches along the way. We stopped for ages and watched the surfers at one beach, listening to a wet suited and booted guy telling his daugher all about the different types of waves and complicated things. Further along, we stumbled across a small surfing competition for the 'older generation'. There was something quite odd and milding disturbing seeing a group of old men clad in wet suits up to their waists, so we didn't stop and kept plodding along.

Several thousand steps later we arrived at the top, the easternmost point of Australia, with fantastic views of the headland and beaches that we had walked past. We were even lucky enough to spot a few dolphins from up there, but that was not the best of our dolphin viewing that day. After taking the obligatory photos, we made our way back down, stopping briefly at a viewing spot. Suddenly we saw a group of about 6 dolphins 'riding the waves', jumping out of the water perfectly synchronised and surfing their way in towards the beach! We were so stunned that we didn't get chance to get the camera out, but it is certainly an image that I will remember nonetheless.

There is not much else I can say about Byron Bay. If we had money to burn we would have been in tourist heaven, jumping out of planes, buying designer surfwear, drinking expensive cocktails. As it was, we were surrounded by people who we had nothing in common with and spent a lot of time reading, which was nice....

After a long night on the bus I arrived in byron bay today around 11. Checked into the hostel took a shower and did laundry. I admit I stank. Its about 430 right now and I am not sure what I am doing tonight but i am catching another bus tomorrow night at 830 (and i wont mess up this time) heading to brisbane. Most likely i will just relax tonight but i will update this if anything exciting happens

I couldn't have asked for a more hospitable couple than Jon jon and his lovely girl Marion.  The weather they turned on for me was perfect and their place very compfy.  Jon jon didn't have to work at all whilst I was there so we spent the days eating and chatting over a couple of cold beers. 

In the afternoons he'd drive me around the place pointing out the choice spots and in the evenings we'd head on down to his favourite watering holes where we'd smile at the tourists, meet his friends or do some more talking and drinking.

Being a musician Jon jon had to do a couple of gigs while I was there.  I was having a ball listening to him sing my favourite songs in the Great Northern Hotel as I sat and enjoyed marion's company.  Even though it was another 3 days until "Splendour in the Grass" festival began there were already plenty of visitors packing the place out.

Byron is on the tourist/back packer route anyway so there are always plenty of accents flying about the pubs and clubs.

Other haunts we checked out over the next couple of nights were The Beach Hotel.  We came here a couple of times.  Coffee one afternoon, beers on another evening.

We also had dinner one evening at The Cheeky Monkey.  Thursday night is wet t-shirt night and the young ladies all have a crack at earing themselves $300.  The place was pumping when we got there but because Jon jon used to be on the staff and is still a regular we were given VIP tags and managed to score a booth.

I met a few of Jonny's mates that night and also had a massage from a Massage Angel that was wandering about.  Her name was Fumi and she was doing this to make money before heading to NZ in a few days time. 

Jon jon and I split from Cheeky Monkey before the wet t-shirt competion.  We shot along the street to Cocomangas night club.  Once again Jonny was in with the staff and we had a free round there before stumbling off home.

One thing I have discovered about Aus is that no-one seems to want to walk.  I was happy to stride home but had to convince Jonny that 3kms wasn't that far.  He finally rang Marion to collect us and she met us with the car only four doors along from our place.

One of the days Jonny and I took a drive up to Bangalaw.  It was a more colonial looking place but it had plent of younger buildings on the main street too.  We had a quiet beer alone in the side bar.  Jon jon told me this was where he sometimes played.  It was a good sized room and set up nicely for a dance and a band.

I had been to byron many times since 1995, and had been diving alot, but until this trip had never been in the right place at the right time to encounter dolphins , up close.

Every morning i woke early, before sunrise and headed to check out the swell, and on one morning noticed a pod of dolphins swimming across the bay, 8 of them, days went by and i saw them regularly, similar swim pattern, it was just a case of getting out to them before they came past, and wait....

Mentioning this plan to a german friend one night, he told me it was one of his BIG dreams to do this, so ,"lets go jorg"!

We met in the dim light, i'd camped in the combi, few words were spoken, which suited me, jorg's english was shocking, swimming out we glided over a turtle, feeding in the early light,  then 20min later we were where we thought was the place, 600m off the beach.

Waiting was fun, the sun rose up, we started to hear dolphin noises...really unusual sensation, the visibilty was amazing, 50m+   then like torpedo's the first few came racing past, eye's on us, we treaded water calmly, snorkles out smiling like crazy,  two circled us, CLOSE , but i felt nothing but pure joy, jorg couldnt contain himself and let out a gargled scream of excitment, then a mum came past with a young one, very small, very cute.........

We lazed our way back in to the beach, feeling really happy to have made the effort to introduce ourselves, great way to start the day....

Splendour in the Grass music festival was a truely monster event.  It started on the Saturday and finished on the Sunday.  It was the reason I came to Byron when my friend Jon Jon suggested it for the 100th time over the last 12 months.  What a birthday party eh?!!!

Saturday 2nd the last band of the night was Devo.  They were our majr drawcard and we've been hyped for the last couple of weeks in anticipation.  At last the time was drawing near, many of the younger festival goers were spilling out and away from the supertop.  We put our heads down and made our way to a possi about 10 rows from the stage and held our breathe.

What an absolutely supreme experience!!  The band are substantially older than when we rocked out to them in the early 80s, but then I guess I have to admit, we are too!!

For a bunch of old farts they had the place pumping.  Young and old were impressed by Devos line up of hit after hit and that last hour was a hell of a way to finish the first night of the festival.

By the time we walked home it was after midnight and my real birthday was celebrated with some port and cheese n crackers.  Very Refined!

By the next morning we were still amped by Devo's awesomness!!  We had coffee in the sun and relived the songs, almost forgetting our unhappy feet and the fact we had another day of standing, walking, and dancing on them.

Today was slower paced.  There weren't many bands we were excited to see but we moved about the festival and my chums kept plying me with birthday beers.  I had told them I was setting a slow pace today and they respected that. 

It was a great day that ended with Ben Lee and a small crowd off in one of the darker corners of the festival venue.  He played a great set as well and it was a terrific way to end the festival for us.

By the time we got home we had an hour of my B.Day left so we had more port and grilled chicken on toast.  Very successful!!

Had another great play at the beach. The boys really loved the water.

We drove to the Currumbin Sanctuary. The boys loved the little train you travelled around in but didn't take much notice of the animals. They did however love the koalas. The adults were impressed by the snake collection but the kids were a bit scared.

We dropped in on P's uncle at short notice. Despite having been through surgery that day he and his lady were very welcoming. We were very spoilt with great food especially the chocolate cake.

Uncle R helped us find some new struts for the camper and J scored a new camping chair. There were lots of chats about family and camping around the fire.

There was heavy rain overnight. Thankfully no leaks. We were overwhelmed by the number of people at Byron and retreated to our Caravan park out of town.

We had a great time at the beach - jumping in the surf and building sand castles.

The caravan park is inhabited by several cheeky bush turkeys which C now calls "rice bubble" turkeys because they ate his left over breakfast.

Beaucoup plus sympathique que Gold Coast, Byron Bay est une petite ville aux aires « baba cool »!

Nous y resterons quelques jours et en profiterons pour plonger une dernière fois en Australie! Ici, plus de corails mais énormément de poissons car nous nous trouvons au point de rencontre de courants chauds et de courants froids! Du coup on à droit à toute sorte de poisson des plus tropicaux aux plus tempérés! Mais le poissons le plus courant n'était autre que le requin!!!! (ok, des petits tachetés pas dangereux, mais bon des requins quand même...)

Got to Byron bay and was very excited, i had heard good things about the place and hoped their was a lot of life in comparison to coffs harbour. Arrived and missed the pick up from the bus stop again but rang up and got it sorted. hostel was ok, nothing special had an Xbox and playstation which was nice.

Headed in to town and had a look around, it was very gloomy and cold but booked some surfing as i was determined to do it in australia. had a look around and when it is not sunny there is not a lot to do. lots of dirty hippies around hanging on to their youth and expensive boutique shops selling hippy gear. Ended up going back to the hostel early as hangover had developed in to a full blown cold but had a sleep and felt a bit better.

The next morning enjoyed a lie in. Also had free pancakes with the hostel which was nice and ate them whilst watching the england v trinidad & tobago which was a little strange time because of the time zones. Watched a film during the morning as the weather was terrible, then found out that our surfing was cancelled because of the bad weather and sea conditions so went to the beach to brave the rain and wind but it was not fun.

Lars is 24, from Belgium, tall and thin, funny kind of guy.  Else is 25, from Australia, bit of an artist and a good laugh.  I liked her answer when I asked her how long she had been travelling and she said ‘for ever’, great I thought, I picked up a homeless bum!  Of course that was my first impression, but I was miles off track.  She’s actually very nice and she’s travelling Australia because she wanted to find out more about her country and in particular aboriginal culture, good on her.  The two of them were planning to go to a weekend festival in a small town called Nimbin, I’ve heard it was a place full of hippies and sounded like fun, so I offered to take them there and join in.

I picked them up on Wednesday morning and off we went to Byron Bay, via the Gold Coast.  Although I was happy to have company and a contribution for petrol (Bella is a right thirsty cow), I was a bit disappointed that I couldn’t spend a few days on the Gold Coast since I had read a lot about it.  I wanted to experience a night out in Surfers Paradise, stare at the neon lights, get pissed on cocktails, dance wildly with blonde babes in skimpy outfits, have a greasy kebab or a curry and wake up the next morning feeling like a baby elephant had sat on my head all night!  Come to think of it, this isn’t far off from a night out in Swansea, except that in the morning the baby elephant would be lying next to me!  Tidy! (as they say in Wales). Anyway, we took the scenic route, drove through condominium clusters and artificial attractions, and stopped on one of the beaches past Surfers paradise to take some photos.  

We arrived in Byron Bay at around 4ish, just in time to park up and have a little wonder.  BB is quite small, very similar to Noosa Heads in that there are lots of posh shops and fancy eateries.  There’s a big bar/restaurant on the front called the Beach Hotel, which has free wifi connection and some nice beers, Coopers Brewery is the best!  Walking around you get the impression that 50% of the people here are backpackers or tourists.  This was confirmed later on by Brone and Brian, a local couple living 6 kilometres south, where Elsa and Lars were staying.  When I dropped them off, Brone didn’t think it was very cleaver of me to kip in my car and suggested to stay with them, the other two didn’t seem to mind so I had a comfy bed for the night and Brone cooked a lovely spag-bog, just like da mamma makes it!

After dinner the three of us went out for a pint and Brone gave us a lift into Byron Bay.  It was a Wednesday night, and to say that the town was dead is an understatement.  Still, we had a fair few beers and got completely trolleyed, if you see the photos you’ll know exactly what I mean.  It was such a beautiful night that we decided to go for a dip in the ocean, when we got back to the house, and the rear garden had a small path leading straight to the beach… how convenient is that!  Maybe it was the beers, or the fact that I was in such a good mode, but I went in with nothing on, just like on Fraser Island, and yet again no one else followed my example, what a disappointment!

Next day we all chilled out a bit.  Else and Lars went off for a romantic long walk on the beach, and I spent half the day sorting out a few bank issues over the internet at Beach Hotel, with a nice schooner of Coopers.  I hate banks, and I hate those idiots who don’t have an answer so they pass you onto another colleague, just as ignorant.  Later, the three of us managed to meet up just in time to drive up to the lighthouse and watch the sunset.

At night, we cooked dinner for our hosts, there was enough chilli con carne to feed all of Australia!  Then we went out in town but this time we didn’t have a lift and had to walk 6 blooming kilometres for the first pint, that’s the furthest I’ve ever had to walk for a beer.  At least town was much better than the previous day, lots more people about and bands were playing in a few of the pubs.  We tried not to go overboard this time, because we had to get up early and Else was hoping to join Brune on a bush walk at 6 in morning!  She didn’t make it… and we got up at 12ish.

On the road again, to a big weekend festival in Nimbin!

12 July 2005

Arrival in Byron Bay at 11 o'clock sharp. At the bus terminal at least ten different hostel dudes in surfer shorts already await me trying to drag me into their hostel. I roll the dice and decide for Backpacker’s Inn on the Beach. After checking in at a 9-bed-dorm I head straight for the beach which - as the name of the hostel suggests - is right in front of the hostel. I sit down in the sand thinking of a movie quote: “Sand is overrated. It's just tiny, little rocks.”

Beautiful people are strolling past me. Halle Berry is just getting out of the water in slow motion. The beach is a perfect dream. The waves are high. The sky is higher. This moment is too beautiful for not wanting to share it with someone. This sad fantastic feeling. This fantastic sad feeling. As slow as possible I stroll along the beach a bit. Let some stones jump on the water’s surface.

A bit later I find myself playing beach soccer. The hostel organises a tourney once a week where everyone pays five bucks. The collected money is used for a party later on in the evening. Or so I am told. I’m in a team with an Israeli, a Dane, a Canadian and a Briton. Running in the sand is tougher than I thought and I stumble like a madman. Nevertheless I score one goal and we win 3:2. We suck in the second game, though, and lose 1:4. After not having won anything except a pounding head I fall into my bed sandy as I am and sleep for two hours. In between my slumber I awake every now and then because a Japanese guy is having a desperate go at his self-made didgeridoo. A bit later a Canadian comes in screaming “Wanna smoke a joint??!!”. The Japanese says “hell, yeah” and leaves.

After having rested I have some spaghetti. A backpacker's favourite food :-)

Around 8pm a Danish couple and I go to a place called “Northern Bar” where this afternoon’s beach soccer is shown on a big screen and I see myself stumbling and scoring the goal.

After about an hour the Danes call it a night. They are tired (old). Me, however, I head for the "Cheeky Monkey’s". There people are wildly dancing on the tables. I have some more drinks and enjoy the music. Then I start some small-stalk with two Irish girls. Slowly but surely I get the feeling that Irish girls are the most beautiful in the world. Well, I guess you get a couple of feelings in a booze, don’t you?

Soon I am on the tables and benches myself doing dance-flirts, you know when you rub against each other and sing loudly into the other person’s face (even though you don’t have a clue about the song’s lyrics). I stay until 3am. Then I accompany the two Irish ladies back to the hostel and after two cheek kisses I call it a night.

13 July 2005

I sleep until 3pm and wake up with a mean hangover and a psychic cold.

The Danes, of course, are fully awake. They have slept like in heaven, had a great breakfast and were already on the beach for a romantic walk. Great!

I walk into town and have some oily fish & chips. Back in the hostel I kill the toilet

It’s starting to get dark again already. The Danes smoke like a chimney playing a stupid card game called “Casino” the whole day.

The music in the garden is clanging out of the loudspeaker. Everyone’s cooking, eating, sitting next to a fireplace, chatting, drinking. A BBQ is held. I don’t want to do anything today. I gulp down two big bottles of beer, play an even more stupid card game called “25” with an Irish family and go to bed.

14 July 2005

I wake up around 11am and have some nutritious breakfast. Toast with butter and jam. The Danes are gone. Then I go down to the beach and lie down in the sand. The sea is calm and the temperature is a pleasant 23°C.

A bit later in the day I go for a walk to Byron Bay’s lighthouse. On the way I eat a steak sandwich and wonder why there’s ten times more salad than steak in a steak sandwich.

Later I reach the most easterly point of Australia’s mainland from where it’s only a stone’s throw up to the lighthouse. I take some pictures of the beautiful landscape and the ocean. Walking back to the hostel along the beach I marvel at the breathtaking sunset.

Then it’s the Cheeky Monkey’s again. I have two beer and talk with yet another Irish girl. The nightclub is full of people and the music’s good but somehow I can’t get started today, so walking back to the hostel I decide to get wrecked tomorrow instead.

15 July 2005

Over breakfast I talk to a Dutch guy who has long hair that always looks like freshly showered. He is a real nice guy and I’m happy to meet another backpacker who is travelling alone. Then two students from Stuttgart are joining our conversation.

And then there is The Invasions of Austrians. A gaggle of Austrians of some Christian association has inevitably arrived. And all these people are planning to storm the Cheeky Monkey’s tonight. Gee, that’s going to be fun…

Now everyone’s munching toast with sausage, cheese and salad as if they haven’t been eating for days. They came from Brisbane travelling to Sydney. One of the few backpackers going north to south at this time of the year. Did I already mention that they are from Austria?

I’m talking to a Japanese who is wearing his sunglasses on the back of his head. But besides that he is quite alright. He says he is not staying in the hostel but just likes to sit in this garden and watch the people. Actually he wanted to get to Nimbin • the mecca for potheads • today but he decided against it since he is neither a pothead nor a down and out. Good man!

Plan for today: Lie on the beach, read a book, smoke (cigarettes), have dinner, crash the Cheeky Monkey’s. I fantasize about kissing a girl tonight even if it’s just an Austrian one.

What else is there to say about Byron Bay. Well, almost any hostel here is a party hostel which is simply because everyone is here for partying. I imagined Byron Bay to be a bit bigger. On the streets of the town you see loads of Yesterday-Hippies. Byron Bay is “flip-flop village”. There is a Woolworths, many fish & chips places, surfshops, travel agencies, Rastafari and Wannabe-Rastafari, Barefoot-People, Britons, digeridoo sound, spliff, booze, even more Britons, BBQ, music, no chubby people, squeaking sand.

Byron Bay is a beautiful place but I don’t really understand why among all places in Australia this is the party stronghold.

In the afternoon I go to an Internet café writing an email to about ten people saying the same things again and again. Then I buy two big bottles of beer and go back to the hostel. The Austrians are just having their BBQ. I cook some spaghetti with tomato-like substance. After playing some pool with the Dutch guy I sit down next to ? and start talking to her. She is Swiss, her mother is Italian and her father Japanese and there’s no way you could overlook that. I manage to talk her into going to the Cheeky Monkey’s with me tonight.

The hostel bus leaves at 10pm. I buy a jug of beer for myself and a Bacardi Orange for the Swiss girl. I’m trying to keep up the conversation but due to the loud music it is almost impossible. Soon we run out of topics to talk about. She is constantly smiling. Whether she is smiling with me or at me, I don’t know. I excuse myself and go to the toilet where I meet a Kurt Cobain stand-in and an Australian girl to whom I confide that I think the Swiss girl pretty. Now she is giving me tips for which signs I should look out for. So I go back to the Swiss girl serenading her some more. The Australian girl is standing across from us, watching us and waving about with her arms showing me her thumb, which obviously means “You’re doing great”. It is daft as hell. A bit later I learn that my talking wasn’t all that great when she leaves saying she was “tired”. Oh well, who cares.

I get up on the table, dancing and grinning like a Cheshire cat. A bit later I find myself among a group of Brisbane girls and start a conversation with Julia. We talk a mixture of English, German and Spanish. She has a round face and is hiding her hair underneath an iridescent wooly hat.

Then it is suddenly 3.30pm and the place is closing down. The music dies. I go with Julia. She is staying at the Arts Factory. While we are waiting for the bus of her hostel we are alone for the first time and start kissing. Then the bus arrives with the bus driver happily smoking a spliff. This obviously affects his driving skills since he is taking the bends with great verve.

Arrival at the Arts Factory. Drunk and stoned people (often both) are dangling in sofa chinks. I take a seat next to a Briton who is also smoking a doobie and talking muddleheaded rubbish.

About half an hour later I accompany Julia to her dormitory. Her bed is a top bunk so we climb up. Julia, I soon find out, is wearing at least twenty piece of clothing, her wooly hat not counted. Drunk as I am I fall asleep before I reach the "bottom drawer".

16 July 2005

At some time early in the morning I wake up with my bladder ready to burst. Since I can’t find any clothes right away, I walk out the dorm with only my shorts on storming the toilet. How embarrasing it would have been if the door fell shut… but fortunately it didn’t. So I crawl back to bed besides Julia and sleep until 11am. She should have checked out at 10am, so she hurriedly throws me out. She gives me her phone number saying I should give her a call once I get to Brisbane.

I lurch back to my hostel still half drunk and go to sleep again just when everybody else is getting up. I wake up at 4pm. Then I have breakfast. It is getting dark again. The Dutch and me are playing pool. The Swiss girl is reacting a bit weird towards me and I wonder why. I buy a sixpack of XXXX and sit down next to three Austrians and one French guy.

And before I can react, I have another stamp for the Cheeky Monkey’s on my hand which grants me free entry. We also get another stamp for which we should receive one free drink. I didn’t really want to go back to Cheeky’s again but everyone else is going so I’m going too. Once there the three Austrians, the French guy and me stand at the bar showing our stamps and ordering five beer. But it turns out that the beer is not free but only cheaper. Instead of AU$ 3,50 the glass costs AU$ 2,50. That’s fine with me, I say. But it obviously isn’t fine with the others. That is because they didn’t bring ANY money. Nothing! They tell me they would only be here for the free drink. Now everyone is acting dumb as hell and argues with the barkeeper. How can anyone be so stupid as not to bring some money when you are going out? I can’t believe it. So, having no choice, I pay for the five beer, give one to the French (who has • believe it or not • found a dollar in his pockets) and drink four myself. The Austrians are going back home. They’ve been out for five minutes. What a great night! Did I already mention that they are from Austria?

The French is happily sipping his beer and together we stare at the display of depressingly beautiful girls dancing on the tables in front of us. About an hour later, after the French finally finished his one and only beer he goes home as well. I’m staying. I start dancing like a maniac without a reason. Later I meet a Shakira stand-in who tries her red lipstick on my cheek. Then I get depressed, so around 3pm I stagger back to my hostel and sleep like a log.

17 July 2005

I’m terribly hungover. I have a dry toast for breakfast and pack my stuff. Sitting in the bus at 10.30am I am close to chundering. I’m leaving this place with a 5-day-Byron-Bay-Hangover. But I survived!

I made a quick day trip to Byron Bay when I was staying in the Gold Coast. When I got there I wish I was staying there for a few days. It was a great little town very popular with backpackers. On the same day I visited Ballina as well. Great places well worth a visit and a stay in.

I'm writing this amidst yet another Byron Bay induced hangover. I've been in Byron for almost a week now and drinking every single night is definitely taking it's toll. The problem is that when you're a traveler and you're thrown together with loads of strangers alcohol becomes a necessary evil for social cohesion. It's very difficult to open up to so many people for so long without a little liquid help. I've even started buying "goon", basically the cheap boxed wine you get that doesn't seem to just come from grapes and often has all sorts of things added to it (mine says "includes milk products"). Because our hostel has a lights out policy at 11pm you also can't just sit around and so if you're not tired you have little choice but to head into town.

Byron Bay is a strange little place; by rights it shouldn't really exist. I don't think many people actually live or grew up here; it seems almost like a purpose built bohemian holiday resort for Australians and international travelers alike. There are unbelievably vast numbers of Europeans here, huge numbers of English, French, Germans and Swedish. You can tell straight away a Swedish girl; they are tanned, blonde, and amazingly beautiful. Groups of them work the bars giving out massages in exchange for a donation to help with their continued holiday. One acosted me; the massage she gave was actually really good and she was just so charming and beautiful I was putty in her hands. I gave her ten dollars.

Most of my nights revolve around a party pub called Cheeky Monkeys. Ordinarily I probably wouldn't go to a place like this (it reminds me of some of the places you'd find in Ibiza, Tenerife and on the infamous TV programme "Club Reps"), but for a major holiday town Byron is actually pretty small and has no real nightclubs. Cheeky Monkeys has generally childish and exploitative games to win beer and Fraser Island trips, most of which involve getting retarded guys to act like plebs and girls to get their boobs out at the earliest opportunity. About 11pm though the games stop and it just becomes a dancefest with increasingly wasted people dancing on tables and hoping to hook up with a partner for the night. I personally find it extremely difficult to dance to the kind of music that gets played in these places; it's mainly just chart music and I have to be really far gone to get into this and not find it awkward to move. Give me a proper hard house / trance club anyday. Most of the time I just sit, drink and watch.

There are a few cool people at my hostel left. Tim has gone now but a really well-traveled versatile guy named Ray is still here. Ray is blatantly King Backpacker; you can just tell from talking to him he's been around, has done this a few times and knows the score. He finds it very easy to talk to people of all different nationalities and personalities. He can easily have a laugh with the loud people and knock heads and thoughts with the quieter introspective people. It's a very good trait to have and kind of wish I was similar; most loud people pretty much annoy me after a while.

I still have lots to add about Byron, including my Nimbin trip with Jim's Alternative Tours; the strangest day trip I have ever had. However it will have to wait till tomorrow, my head is in a mess, I think I need to buy a banana and an orange juice.