The best thing about this hotel is it's location, being at the quiet north east coast of the island.

One of the best things about traveling for me is I end up places I would never planned on and see things I did not expect.  I do not think I have ever traveled and not had a couple of good surprises on my trip.  This was one of those days.

This fun day actaully started the day before as Benny and I were walking near our hotel in Karon Beach.  We wandered down this side street looking for a place for lunch and we came across one of the many travel agents that this island province seems to have.  I swear most of Thailand's economy must be based on the thousands of tailors, tuk tuk drivers, travel agents and bars.  How any of them make enough money to survive is beyond me.  For some reason I actually stopped and took a look at all the brochures that were being displayed.  Maybe it was simply because the lady working simply smiled when I looked into her store and did not call out and be aggressive like many of her competitors.

Benny must had a idea what she wanted to do as she quickly scooped up a few brochures all that were about going out to the smaller islands around Phuket.  Not sure what the reason was, I would like to think it was because of my awesome bargaining skills, but the lady quickly dropped the price of the 2800 baht tour to 1500 baht.  So basically we got two tours for the price of one as long as we took the tour the next day.  I did the quick calculations on a calculator to see how much that was in Canadian and decided it was a good deal.

The next morning we were picked up by a mini van at our hotel and we were off to Chalong Pier near the south end of Phuket Province.  For some reason the whole van was filled up by guests of our hotel so we did not have to make multiple stops and quite quickly we were at the pier.  I was not expecting much from the tour company as my experience in Thailand up to this point was not so good when in involved Thai tour companies.  This company was a huge exception.  I have high standards for tour companies as I work with them every day at my job and I have to say Anda Varee Tours is first class and compares very well with any tour company I have ever used in any country.

We arrived at the pier and we were quickly sorted into different colours as there would be 4 boats leaving the pier at the same time with just this company.  I wonder is this the way Harry Potter felt when he was sorted into his house.  We then got fitted for our flippers so that we could snorkel later in the day. 

Now a note on my swimming skills which explains why this tour is a bit unusual for me.  Rocks float better then me.  I mean I really think I would sink if I tried to float in the Dead Sea.  That does not mean I can not swim but my swimming skills are quite comical to watch.  I can swim for short distances but there in a constant battle between gravity that is trying push me under water and any forward progress I can keep with my frantic movements of my arms and legs.  I think jet engines must create less turbulence then I do when attempting to swim.  So basically when I swim I had better always in water less then 1.5 meters deep so if needed I can stop my flailing and stand up. 

So off we went on a jet boat heading out into the Andaman Sea.  We ended up visiting a a bunch of islands that if I ever knew the names I do not remember now.  Each of the islands had great beaches with white sand and awesome green hills.  The water was warm with the only problem for me was the strong currents that made my mad swimming difficult.  At one of the last beaches I had trouble just standing up near the shore as the current was incredibly strong.

The funniest moment was at the first beach.  The captain of our boat stopped a few hundred meters from the shore and let us swim among the hundreds of tropical fish we could see.  The tour company was very careful to tell us to watch the currents and to wear one of their life jackets if we were not strong swimmers.  I was one of the first to take a life jacket as I could easily see the through the clear Adaman Sea water and it was much more then 1.5 meters deep.  Once I put on the jacket I felt some pain from a sunburn shoulders.  I normally do not burn as I am very lucky.  Even though I am very white the sun just not burn me very often.  After coming back from 6 weeks in Thailand in November by co-workers even asked me if I had been wearing long pants and jackets while I was on vacation as I was a white as when I had left Canada.

I guess I had got some sun on the 30 minute trip across the open sea.  I think some of the problem was there was a pretty strong wind that we rode into and I likely got some wind burn as much as I got sun burned.  So I did not feel like doing up all the straps on the life jacket which was a big mistake.  Once I jumped (more likely gingerly stepped) into the wonderful water the jacket did what it was suppose to and started to float.  The trouble was it was not even close to being tight to my body and so I sort of wore the jacket around my neck rather the my torso.  My ungraceful swimming was made even harder as the jacket basically handcuffed me.  After 30 minutes of splashing in the sea I was very tired and got back onto the speed boat. 

For the rest of the day I gave up on snorkeling and if I did go into the water it was just to cool off.  The day high that day was close 40 degrees which to me is unbearably hot.  If it had not been for all the water around me to cool off with I would have died.  The day was great as I saw so many tiny fish and even a few wild monkeys.  All of the islands were beautiful and the only trouble was at the beach we had a buffet lunch at. For a place that that depends on tourists to make money this place could spend some time clean their beach.  there was so much garbage floating in the bay it was disgusting.  Apparently this beach was destroyed by the tsunami so maybe it is just the way the currents in the sea flow and it just sucks in the garbage of the region but really a little effort would make it nicer

Overall this was a  day to remember.  I might even do this same trip again if we ever go back to Phuket.  It was great end to a short visit to a great country.  The next day we headed back to Bangkok and the next day back to Canada.  Now counting the weeks until I am back.  I know Benny is counting the days for her ATM to come back.  Next time will be even a shorter trip for Thailand though.  As much as I like this country it is time to see other countries in Asia.  I am working on my options now. 

Morning (and sunshine!) came to Phi Phi island at 6:30, and Steve and I met the group for the buffet breakfast served at the Bay View resort. Everyone was in high spirits, ready for another day of diving. The breakfast was pretty good, too.

We headed out to sea, and I basked/napped in the sun on the top deck. One minute I was lying there thinking, Boy is it hot! and then next minute I was being pelted with rain, scrambling to take cover under the canopy with the others! Oh well, the sun was nice for that 30-minute stretch.

We saw another leopard shark on our first dive. The current was still strong, and the visibility hadn’t improved. Other than the shark, the dive wasn’t all that great.

The second dive was a deep wreck dive. It felt very dangerous, as we were swept quickly alongside the boat, which had pieces of steel and sharp-looking protrusions all over it. The fish life was amazing, and so thick! It’s the first time I have felt the visibility to actually be hindered by all the wildlife. For a minute, we lost Edgar. I became very worried, and our guide Owen was concerned as well. This wreck would be an awful place to get lost. Owen told me and Steve to stay put and went off to find Edger, who was luckily just around the corner. Whew! I have never been so happy to see an old French guy in my life.

We came up from that dive to extremely choppy seas, and getting on the boat was a real chore. People have gotten injured when boarding in these conditions… you must be very careful to not get under the boat or the ladder, lest it slam back down on top of you. It was pretty difficult, and I couldn’t get my damn fins off as I clung to the ladder, being lifted up and slammed back down. I was thinking I had had enough of this diving, when Steve said he wanted to sit the next one out. Turns out our whole group had the same opinion! Owen said, “hell, no, I am not going out there again! Go by yourselves if you must!” and Edgar was out, too. So after lunch, we all waited aboveboard as the others (newer to diving and therefore still gung-ho) got into their cold, wet suits and descended into the gray water. Paul the videographer said, “I’ll just shoot them coming out of the water” and stayed on the boat with us.

More food (delicious pancakes, cooked by a crew guy in the small galley), then it was time to go home to Phuket. It was rough going! The boat slammed over the waves, and I noticed Tom looking green around the gills. Amazingly, no one got sick. Steve said he hadn’t felt well at all on the boat, but the Dramamine did its job for the most part.

Back on land, we all piled damply into another truck (which had extreme difficulty getting up the hills) and we were the first stop. We made our fond farewells to the group, and then enjoyed hot showers back at our place. So tired… I struggled to stay awake, but we both succumbed to a nap at 4:30, and didn’t wake up until 8pm! Oh boy. And here at 9pm I still feel like I am on the boat. The room is rolling around me! Motion sicknessin my apartment, hmmm... just a little souvenir of our trip to Phi Phi.

Today Steve and I traveled by boat from Phuket to the Phi Phi islands, stopping along the way for diving. Everything was bleak and gray both above the water and below, but the water was bath-water warm and there were even some sharks to be found, so it was a nice day all-in-all.

At 7:45am a small pickup outfitted with two rows of seats in the back covered by a canopy picked us up. We were greeted by three friendly faces, who would be the beginnings of our Phi Phi contingent:  Matty from Australia, Matthew from Denmark, and Edgar from France. Quite an international representation!

Along the way we picked up a couple of Swedes (I never got their names), and then several bins of food -- hey, getting a little crowded back here! -- then another American, then some huge bags of ice, then some bags of fruit. Soon we were all on top of our luggage, the food, and each other, bouncing our way to the harbor and our boat, Greta.

We arrived at the port, everything was quickly thrown on board, and then we were off. The head guy, Owen (Irish, by the way), told us to get our dive gear ready while the seas were calm. He gave us a full orientation on the boat, making sure to show us where to find the Dramamine. Oh oh! (It wasn’t bad in the morning, but got very choppy later in the day).

The group was broken up into smaller groups of three or four divers each, each with its own guide. Steve, Edgar, and I had the most number of dives logged and were matched up with Owen, who would be our guide for two days.

The first stop was Shark Point, which Owen jokingly called “Shark-less Point.”  He told us to expect a strong current, and instructed us to use the mooring line to guide us to the bottom where the four of us would meet up. I had planned to follow my people down right away, but got hung up behind another group, who for some reason was just sitting on the line. I couldn’t pass them, and the waves were crashing around me, pulling me up out of the water as the boat was tossed around, then plunging me back under. It was grueling and stressful. I hate to bounce around in the waves  -- it’s always so much calmer just below the surface. I just couldn’t get there!

I finally managed to pull myself through the crowd. What chaos! The current was brutal, the visibility was extremely low, and I couldn’t find the members of my group. Just as I thought I’d have to go back up... there’s Edgar! And Owen! Whew…but Steve was nowhere to be found. Owen asked me in diver sign language, "Where is your buddy?" and I gave the international sign for “No idea!” We waited and watched for about a minute, and then Owen instructed me to buddy up with Edgar and follow our videographer, Paul, who knew the route. Owen went off to find Steve while I swam off with Paul and Edgar. With all the excitement and stress I had used a record amount of air on the descent! I kept a close air on the gauge.  

[Owen did find Steve, by the way, who at that point was safely back on board. He had not used the line to descend and quickly got swept away from the group in the strong current. With no line and no other divers in sight, the only thing to do is go back up, which is where he decided to stay. Owen rejoined us after ensuring Steve was OK.]

I am sorry Steve missed this dive, which I felt was the best of the trip. Shark Point actually lived up to its name -- we had two leopard shark sightings! The first shark was sleeping on the bottom, blending into the sand very well. Even with Owen pointing directly at the thing, it took me some time to recognize I was actually looking at a shark. It was very exciting (oops, there goes my air again). I also spotted a small blue-spotted stingray, and Owen pointed out a large school of squid, swimming above us. They looked picturesque, silhouetted by the dim light above and I wished once again that I had my underwater camera with me. Everywhere, there were swarms of fish. It was a nice dive. We ascended after 45 minutes because Edgar was low on air, so I hadn't done badly after all.

There were a total of three dives for the day, all pretty hazy, with a strong current. The conditions were less than ideal, but we did see some good stuff:  a turtle who appeared to be stuck headfirst in some coral (Owen didn’t touch the wildlife except this turtle. He pulled him out a little to make sure he was OK), a small white seahorse, a very fast and shy black-tipped reef shark, some enormous moray eels, my first cuttlefish (bizarre looking thing), and of course, lots and lots of other fish.

On deck, we were fed very well. For lunch they put out several meat Thai dishes, and they served me a special vegetarian tofu-curry dish that was very good. For dinner, they served spaghetti, and I have never seen a bunch of guys consume so much pasta in one sitting! Steve had two enormous plates, and I noticed the Matty the Australian (who people called “Big Guy”) put away enough for a family of four. I ate some stir-fried vegetables with rice, which they had also made for my lunch but I hadn’t eaten. The food and the company were very good. I enjoyed it.

We arrived at Phi Phi island (Koh Phi Phi) at about 4pm and were greeted by…more rain, and lots of it. We then had quite a LONG walk to the Bay View Resort, which I believe was on the other side of the island from the pier. We walked through a town area, then through some resorts, then across the beach. This was a potentially miserable walk, but to me it felt festive somehow. I love walking in the rain, and this was a nice, warm kind of downpour. I was the slow one, stopping to take pictures of the beautiful beach along the way. The Swedes, encumbered by a large bag and his bad knee, were behind me. At least they had rain ponchos. No one else was thus prepared, although I did find a garbage bag to put over my backpack. Steve, who is usually well prepared for everything, lamented that he had removed his rain gear from his overnight bag at the last minute. We all got soaked.

The resort was nicely situated on the very end of the beach, and from our bungalow we had a great view of the water. Unfortunately we also had a septic system vent next to our deck, so the odor kept us inside with the door closed. I hopped in the shower which was … salt water! I had taken a fresh water shower on the boat, and here I was getting all salty again! Steve absolutely couldn’t believe there was such a thing as a salt water shower, so he just had to see for himself. Ick. We both rinsed off the salt with bottled water.

In the evening, we all met up for happy hour at a bar called Hippie’s. The drink prices were reduced (but still kind of expensive), and free food was served at 8:30. Our Swedes never showed up… turns out they were exploring the island, which they later told us was “covered with garbage… just shit” when they strayed inland from the beach area. I spent the evening talking with Tom the American who had some good stories about the 10 years he spent teaching English in three countries (South Korea, and two other countries I can’t remember now).   

Back in the bungalow, it was a rough night. My pillow smelled like dirty head, the bed was hard, and the AC directed a cold 20-knot breeze right at me. I shivered and couldn’t sleep. Hope morning comes soon… I am ready more diving, and hopefully some sunny skies.

I wake up at 7u30 am to have breakfast. Luckily, it is a lot better that the dinner I had last night, and the dining area is almost full this time. I've been looking forward to today for a very long time, as I wrote in my introduction. Phi Phi is what -years ago- made me decide to see the beautiful world that is outside of Belgium, and therefor a trip that I couldn't possibly put off any longer. Normally beaches and islands are not really what I travel the world for, but this is something else. It is almost like a child's dream to fulfill.

While awaiting the tour bus that is going to take me to the harbor, I try calling one of the tour reps of Phuket to cancel my half board booking. I've been a bit disappointed about the hotel since last night, even if the service and the room is pretty nice. Some things aren't maintained that well and the diner just ruined my mood yesterday. I think it would make me feel better if I could get that of my bill. But no guide is available and soon the minibus arrives. But hey, I'm done with remorse about the wasted money on the food really. And I'm also done about maybe regretting a bit not to have chosen a fancy hotel in Patong, because honestly, I can't really complain about the resort I'm staying at and things aren't actually bad at all. As you read, I'm in my most positive mood today, and it sure got a reason :)

I'm the first person to be picked up and the only one from Aquamarine Resort, so that leaves me alone with the driver. He's a very friendly guy but just like most other Thai guys I've been chatting with a bit predictable ("You so beautiful, how come you alone? You 22? Nooo! You 18!"). Still, he's nice, and after a while he starts talking at length about how it is to live in beautiful Thailand. I tell him it must be wonderful living in such nice surroundings, but he is doubtful. "I lived in Patong for 10 years" he says "but now I went to live in Kamala. Patong is not a nice place to live. Every night people shouting through microphones: "Boxing show, 9pm, Thai boxing". EVERY NIGHT!" I haven't been to Patong yet but I plan to do it on my last evening. Yet I can imagine that having your home in such a touristy place mustn't be easy. Anyway, as we drive past the coastline I can not help but think that this gorgeous water is just heavenly, with or without the tourists swimming in it.

After picking up somewhat 6 other people in various hotels, all a lot fancier than mine, we arrive at the harbor and get to the speedboat. There we also meet our guide: a German talking Swiss guy who got married to a Thai lady, moved over here, and since got so tanned he looks more like an African than a European. He speaks a full range of languages going from German over French and English, to Thai, Italian and Spanish, and he's a bit of a macho, but ok. Soon we put the motors on and start sailing. At first we go slowly and I can't do anything but sit back and be amazed about the scenery. The color of the water here is like nothing I've ever seen before. You might not know it, but when you go swimming in the Belgian sea, when you put your hand 10 centimeters below the water level, you just can't see it anymore. The water is green/brown and not at all transparent. Here it is as blue as can be, almost artificial, and filled with "little" rocky islands rising up above the waves, having green trees on top of them, growing in the sun.

Later, when we get further on in open sea and all the motors get turned on, we make more speed and as the sea is a bit stormy today, the boat rocks an awful lot. Soon one of the passengers, a French girl, gets sick and all the rest of us just get soaking wet from the buckets of water splashing in. We literally bumb of the benches each time a wave passes. I shouldn't have bothered wearing clothes over my bikini, as it is no use. I don't usually get sick in boats or cars or whatever, and luckily I don't get sick here either. The ride basically reminds me of a theme park ride: the strange feeling in my belly, the splashing water and the rocking boat surrounded by exotic scenery could have been a Disneyland attraction. I enjoy it a lot, and things get even better when after about an hour we slow down and Phi Phi gets in sight. I cannot help myself to sit up, turn round on the bench and watch these rocky islands come closer.

Our first stop is Monkey Beach, a bay with beautiful views over the surrounding rocks. This is IT. I recognize it as soon as I get of the boat and turn round to face the sea and the mountains. It is almost a miracle, but this view is the view I saw years ago on the poster. It is the picture I've remembered for so long! The exact one. For a moment I can do nothing more that stare. The sand under my feet is as white as can be, the water is crystal clear, the sky cloudless and blue. The rocks in the distance curve like a half circle around the beach, and make a perfect background for the picturesque longtailboats floating around. There are other tourists here, but not as much as I expected. I thought Phi Phi was spoiled with people on the beaches and speedboats in the bays, but here it is actually quite peaceful. I sit down on the sand to just watch this beauty, while most other people go looking for monkeys. They waste their time. There are no monkeys to be seen. It is Saturday so they are probably all just enjoying the weekend. And man I do to! Some weight falls of my hart now I'm here. I finally made it! This beach, this place,... and from here on, the rest of the world. Y'all be aware, 'cause here I come :) Yet not right now, as for the moment I'm speechless.

After a while we sail on to Maya Bay. This is the place were the film "The Beach" was shot. I have seen the first half of the movie and I hated it so turned of the video. That is probably because I read the book first, which is truly superb. The film, however, is just a cheap Hollywood version that flattens out all the depths in the story, changes the personalities, twists the storyline to remove the philosophy behind it and replace it with sex and exaggeration. I would recommend everyone to read this great novel (written by Alex Garland) and skip this horrid movie. But whatever, this isn't really the point. The point is Maya Bay got famous after Leonardo and his film crew messed up the corrals here and shot their blockbuster. So it is supposed to be full of tourists, right? As we sail closer there are indeed lots of boats. But while we get nearer they all sail of and pass by us into the open sea. By the time I put feet on the sand, more than half of the visitors has gone and again, a calm comes over me. The island strikes me with its beauty. I am such a novice to exotic destinations, I know, but still. I hope I'll never forget how to appreciate a miracle as this. Because it is a miracle. Heaven on earth exists, and it is found in Thailand.

After dreaming away at The Beach, we get to a quite place beside the high cliffs of the island, to do some snorkeling. I have done so in Italy and Spain but hallelujah, this is something else. In no time, I feel like I'm swimming in an aquarium, surrounded by colorful fish. Some of them sting a bit when they touch my skin, but they don't leave bumps so I suppose it's no harm. There are long silver ones with reflecting blue stripes, nemo-like fish, just a bit bigger (I didn't get to see any small nemo's though), yellow striped ones with a pointy face, large groups of tiny guppies, and many more. They don't seem to be afraid at all, 'cause when I swim among them they don't scatter but just let me follow their course. I am ones again amazed. The see below me is cold and in the dept it gets darker, but here, at the water level, I can feel the sun at my back and the fish swimming next to me. As far as I can see, there are silhouettes of fished that get more and more colored in when I move closer. Life is so great. Did I say I don't like beaches and islands that much? I've been lying!

I stayed in the water until it was time to move on. Then we sail through numerous lagoons and bays, and past viking cave as well. After cruising this amazing island, we set of to the larger of the two islands: Phi Phi Don. Here we have a buffet, which is actually really nice. I didn't expected this much choice of food when I booked a "lunch included tour". But this restaurant good and has a magnificent view over the sea and the beach. I leave early to stroll the coastline a bit, but soon place myself under a palm tree to just sit and enjoy. After that, we get back to Phuket but stop first at Koh Kai, were it is much more touristy than at the places we've been earlier, but equally nice. We first snorkel for about an hour in the open see in front of the island, than get of the boat to sunbath a bit before returning to Phuket. I haven't seen our guide during that whole time. When reaching Koh Kai he pointed out one of the cocktail bars as "his office" and disappeared. I think we've been lucky he isn't navigating the boat, or else our route back might have been even rockier than the first one.

By 6pm I reach the hotel, shower, discover that my back is pretty much burned, and get dressed for dinner. I'm not really looking forward to it but as I've payed for it, and I'm too tired to go to town after all the swimming and the strolling around, I'll just have it. I can choose from exact the same dishes as yesterday, so again pick the fish, and the musicians play exactly the same songs. But well, I can't say I don't enjoy it a little. Because of the lack of costumers I even have my own "private waiter", that just hangs around my table in case I'd want something. Normally that would piss me of tremendously, but after such a great they, I cannot but find it charming. As not many people use the restaurant at night, and I am alone, people recognize me easily I guess. So ever since yesterday, whenever I pass a counter or a waitress, they ask me where I've been and how my day was. Next to me sits an Australian couple having the same course as I do, and as they notice I sit alone they start a conversation. Yet as they've just arrived an my plate is about empty, we don't chat long. I do regret it though, as they seem really nice. But I'm tired and don't stay in the restaurant long after finishing my desert. So we say goodbye and I return to my room, to have a good rest.

When returning to my corridor though, on one of the walls sits one of the sweeties that played orchestra in the trees last night. A huge beetle like thing, somewhat between a large thick fly and a grasshopper. It gives me chills, no kidding. And it takes me some 10 seconds to motivate myself to walk past it (more like run past it). As I stand at my room door I turn round to watch the "monster" ones more. There is a little gecko sitting next to it, facing the beetle. But the gecko is not much bigger that the insect, and though it looks like thinking "mmmm, tasty big meal" there is no way it could catch such a large creature. To bad... If geckos lived in herds they could have surrounded the beetle and then kill it, but unfortunately they don't. I've been telling it: "catch the monster, catch it!" but it was no use. Luckily my room was free of horrors.

I've been using half the bottle of after sun I got on my burned skin. In fact, it is only my back that got burned from the snorkeling, but it got burned pretty bad. The after sun too has a story attached to it, of which I haven't written yet, but in fact it is not that interesting. I didn't find good after sun in Belgium as it was still winter when I left, so I planned on buying it at the airport. But I had to rush to the gate in Brussels and there weren't many shops at Phuket, so I wasn't able to. Then I've been buying cocos creme, and three other products at shops in Thailand, but non of them worked. At one point I got skin irritation from the first product, but non of the others were able to cure the dryness. It's been a mess. It was just at our last evening in Chiang Mai that I got my hands on some good old Nivea Aloe Vera, and that has done the trick. It's funny but most products sold at seven eleven are lotions that have bleachers in it, to whiten the skin. Got to be careful with what to buy here!

Anyway. The bed feels lovely and I am incredibly tired. As soon as I close my eyes I drift away into dreams of pure white stands and fish in the see.

We were dizzy at the first glimpse of the scenery on our first visit to the beach in Phi Phi.  This place was nothing like Puket.  The average age was closer to 25 and the amount of over tanned tight bodies with perky pleasantries out for the world to see was truly overwhelming.  We had no choice but to pay for a beach recliner and take a seat to allow our minds to soak in the reality of this heavenly place.

We were only planning on staying on the stunningly beautiful and expensive Island for a day or two our route to quiet Kolanta to the south.  Two single guys were powerless against the Swedish temptations.  Every day is a Friday night and my body was not accustomed to day after day of injections of liquid courage required to break the ice with the beast the planet has to offer.  There were just so many beautiful girls I felt guilty not boozing it up to the wee hours to take advantage of the situation laid before me.

Ms. Lee's guesthouse was a popular place.  Like most it was packed with Swedes.  I was told by several people that about 400, 000 of Sweden's 9 M make their way to Phi Phi every year and I believe it.  The very tonal up and down accent was unavoidable on all corners of the small island.  A few games of pyramids, kings, and asshole, in front of Ms. Lee's was a sure way to start the night off right with a constant rotation of Blonde Bombshells.

After about a week of waking up with only a few hours of light left for long range Frisbee we finally gave in.  I decided to check out the rock wall and was pleasantly surprised by the number of routes available on the stacked limestone face.  I met up with a couple climbers who were, as climbers are, overly friendly and eager to help.  I tagged along using their gear and got a couple days in for free.  The from the top of the wall of the thin strip of palm trees with beach on the north and south and mountains on the east and west was unquestionably the best on the island and possibly the most beautiful beachscape I have ever seen.  There were plenty of routes available at my grade that could have entertained me for several more days but we had to rush to catch our boat to Krabi since Brenden was flying to Vietnam.

Having walked from Palm Beach to Phi Phi Island village, many times on previous visits, we were aware that it is possible to walk all the way round to Tonai Bay. Feeling full of energy, we decided that this time we would do the full walk. The path starts off following the coast and is quite easy going, particularly now that it is paved for around half the distance between Holiday Inn and Island Village. There is a nice viewpoint with a little shelter just as you approach Island Village. Then you pass through a small collection of huts where some locals live. Eventually you arrive at the new suspension bridge which takes you into Island Village and a couple of backpacker type places. Here you have a choice....cross the bridge or follow the the sign that says Tonsai Bay. Off we went heading for Tonsai!!!! After ten minutes or so a signpost directed us right into the jungle....no proper path.... and a not well-used track. Alarm bells ringing now, but with Lynda still full of enthusiasm, I didn't dare suggest that maybe this was not such a good idea. After 45 minutes climbing upwards and through what was really quite dense jungle we stopped for a rest and to work out how much further.
It soon became clear that it would be just as difficult climbing downwards and surely it wouldn't be much further, so we set off again. After a another half hour we started to hear the familiar sound of longtails. Much encouraged we trecked on and started to go downhill eventually reaching the sea........and then.......horror!!!!! We had emerged at the Loh Dalum side right at it's furthest out point, and Tonsai Village in the distance looked more than half a mile away. Worse still.....the tide was in and there didn't appear to be any way of walking to the village.....other than climbing back up and finding another route down!
Fortunately, we came accross a little group of locals who guided us through to a pathway that led right in to the village. First stop a large cold beer. It reminded me of the film Ice Cold in Alex when they all sat at the bar looking at their cold glasses of beer.
Something of a nightmare at the time, but another great memory from Phi Phi.

Suitably refreshed and cooled down, we set off for a wander around the village. Re-construction is still evident but very definitely everything is in full swing once again. It's not really our cup of tea around this part but we always make at least one visit just to check on re-development and to buy some gifts for the grandchildren. I think it's fair to say that this part of Phi Phi is mainly geared towards younger folk!!! And of course, it can get very busy with daytrippers here.

Needless to say we didn't walk back to Holiday Inn, but hired a longtail. 400baht, I think....not expensive.

In order to maximise our time we generally try to book early flights when we are transfering mid-trip. So we left Singapore for Phuket at 9.20am. Once again Changi airport was just amazing. No waiting at check-in, no waiting at passport control and no waiting at security. A pure delight! I wish every airport was like this. Arrived at Phuket around 10.00am (time zone change, one hour behind Singapore), swiftly through immigration and by 10.30 we were in our cab heading for Rasada Pier, where our speedboat was waiting to take us to Phi Phi. We were sipping our welcome drink at Holiday Inn before mid-day! The speedboat transfer is expensive but effectively we gained a half day so we consider it well worth it.
As regular visitors to this resort, we always book the same bungalow having found the one we like best. We were met by Antonio the manager who said that as per our request he had reserved our favourite 108. However, he told us that they had just completed a prototype bungalow of an improved design and would we like to try that. We had seen this prototype being developed over our last couple of visits so we knew its location and also that it was considerably bigger. We gladly accepted the offer and were led to the new development 116. A bottle of Champagne waiting for us and the bungalow was filled with lovely fresh flowers. Full width patio doors led on to a split-level patio leading almost right into the sea. Wonderful!!!

First night we headed for Jasmins Restaurant for dinner on the beach. It was the birthday of one of the kids from the Sea Gypsy village so we were entertained by the kids playing games whilst we enjoyed fresh lobster.
I don't know if it's just the location that influences me, but the food here is always.....exquisite!
Then a lovely walk along the beach back to 116. Paddling in the sea, loveley moon-lit night with tens of squid fishing boats, with their very bright lights, all along the horizon.

After a few days just swimming, snorkeling, reading and generally relaxing, we decided that we would walk to Tonsai Bay.......

O.K. I'm laying on the beach in Lo Dalum Bay, when I hear this guy speaking with an American accent. I ask him where he's from, and find that he's from Seattle, his name is Dan, and he has been living on Phi Phi for about three months. He started telling me the best places to hang, where to eat, etc, as it's my first full day on Phi Phi. After a few days, Dan and I were pretty good friends. We hung with a huge crowd that consisted of Brits, Swedes, Americans and Canadians. My Swedish buddy Marcus and Dan even had "Phi Phi Party Boys" tattooed on their feet! It was a great time, but I digress... In our initial conversation, Dan told me of a place named Sunflowers. It turned out to be the most perfect bar anywhere in the world. You've seen those Corona commercials where they try and set up a beautiful, tropical scene, which to me looks a little antiseptic. This wasn't that. Sunflowers had all of the beauty, but it also had a certain "Tiki" feel to it. There were the prows of ships serving as booths. Tree stumps which served as barstools. The obligatory hanging puffer-fish, fishing nets, etc. The best part was the beach area. Instead of tables, imagine bamboo mats with triangular beach pillows to rest on. Between the mats would be a little serving table which you could rest your Singha or other drink on. The drinks were between 75 cents and two dollars. They also served seafood, Pad Thai, and other little treats. Reggae was the norm, and the beach area was a perfect place to watch the sun drop into the water.

While planning my trip around the world starting in Thailand, my best friend Robby and his girlfriend Barbara decided to go to Thailand as well.  At first it seemed as though we wouldn't be able to hook up, as we were on different itineraries.  Kinda dumb huh?  Best friends since we were in high school, go around the world to Thailand at the same time, and to not hook up?  Well it turned out, that Robby had no idea where he was going in Thailand, and as soon as Barbara and I spoke, we realized our paths would cross.

Turns out the paths crossed on Phi Phi.  I had already been there for about eight or nine days when they arrived.  They thought they would be able to get in and suprise me.  They understemated the islands small size, when a ferry pulls in, you know about it.  I waited for them on the pier rockin out to my iStod when their ferry pulled up.  I had such an awesome time suprising them, I forgot to take enough pictures.

Us and some Swedish girls I "made friends with."

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After the first evening for them on the island, we took out a longtailed boat.  We first went to the most beautiful snorkeling I had ever done in my life.  We then headed to Maya Bay.  Like I said in a previous entry,  this is the Beach made famous in the movie "The Beach." 

We hung out on the powdery sand and drank a few sodas, and realized everything was perfect.  Rob pulled out iPod speakers, and we played Bob Marley for hours.  We then decided to head over to Monkey Beach.  Small problem though.........low tide.  The boat couldn't get out for another few hours.  We looked around, and realized that if that was our only problem for the day-that we would "have to" stay in Maya Bay, then we were truly in paradise.

Traveling about in the way that I am is a lot of fun, but also a lot of hard work.  Not seeing friends and family is the hardest though.  To see your best friends in the whole world, and to hang out with them in that setting, was hard to describe.  I've told you that I consider myself lucky, and I know I am........

Today I went out on a long-tailed boat for a tour around Koh Phi Phi.  Phi Phi (pronounced pee-pee, I know kids....funny.) is quite easily the most beautiful place I have ever seen.  It's as though God grabbed Yosemite and Monument Valley, and filled them halfway full with warm, tropical water. Throw in some jungle foliage, and a lot of good looking girls and you have my very favorite place.

I took off for the tour at around 11:00.  We first went to an uninhabited island in the middle of the Andaman sea.  In the movie Braveheart, there's a half deranged Irish guy who proclaims Ireland to be "My Island."  Well I now know how he feels.  That little island has now been formally annexed into the ever growing empire of Stodlandia.

We then went onto Monkey Bay.  Easily the most beautiful beach I have ever seen.  The sand is so powdery fine and white, and the water is of course beautiful.  Only saw a few monkeys, but you know what?  I'm O.K. with that.  I met a girl who had been bitten by a monkey in Vietnam, and she had to get rabies shots.

My boat.

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We next went to Maya Bay.  Maya Bay is made famous from the movie "The Beach"  The water was gin-clear, there were fish everywhere, and the rock formations towering 1,000 feet out of the water made for a very picturesque scene.

We then went and watched one of the most amazing sunsets you'll ever see.  We just sat there bobbing up and down in the water, watching the sun go down in silence.  When the last bit of sun had set over the horizon, we all cheered in appreciation.

I consider myself a religious person.  Although I don't go to church, I've always believed in God.  This amazing day showed me that I haven't been wrong in my beliefs.  As I'm sailing along, listening to reggae, passing these amazing scenes it dawned on me that not only does God exist, but that he also has given me an amazing opportunity traveling about this Eden, and that I'm very grateful to him for that.

On our return back to Phi Phi, we met up with Scott and Graeme, who had just endured a 48 hour journey across from Sydney, and then down from Bangkok using the most roundabout route possible. In true Fraser Island style, we headed straight out to Hippies Bar; our usual haunt; the night went well, with all three of my travelling companions being sick...two of them on me! and then the long walk home...where I was required to carry 6ft Scott Gunton up 57 steps, whilst trying to convince him that riding a bike down them probably wouldnt be the best idea in his state! After a good deal of recovering...we hit the beach for some sun and sea, before beginning the whole cycle again. Our second night consisted of going to Reggae Bar....which hosted a Muay Thai competition for anyone up for the challenge. Unfortunatly those who were 'up for the challenge' tended to be those individuals who had already consumed their entire bodyweight in alcohol....so two very drunk boys...(usually australians) were dressed up in thai boxing garb and sent off to the ring to beat the s**t out of each other infront of a bar full of people....only to be rewarded with more alcohol....genius! Health and safety would have a field day!  

Phi Phi Islands is a common tourist destination when you are in Phuket. People use daily tours (for the cost of e.g. 2,000 B) to see such great places. But my advice as quoted in the blog summary is to stay there for at least one day. In this case, you need a ferry ticket to the island from Phucket, which is cheap and widely available, then you can rent a good room for only 1,000 B per night. Then, you can enjoy the ultimate beauty of this pure nature all over the day. But remember that Phi Phi is a collection of small islands, and you can stay in one place only. The advantage of tours is that you can visit 2 or 3 places, but for a short time as you cannot enjoy (e.g. swimming for only 15min). Tips: select your desirable place due to your desirable activity. And take care of you skin, Phi Phi has hot sunshine.

There are many dive centres on Phi Phi. This is a great place to do your open water course. Not least because your diving license will forever say 'Qualified at Phi Phi'! Calm warm seas and some great dive sites. The King Cruiser Wreck is a good site. A sunken car ferry in a stable condition around an hour from Tonsai Bay. Koh Phi Phi scuba diving ranks amongst the top five dive destinations in Thailand. Limestone cliffs rise dramatically out of the sea and plunge straight back down underwater, forming the colourful soft coral walls for which Phi Phi is famous. There are more than 15 different dive sites with many rugged walls, interesting caves and cavern penetrations. Swim-through entrances are often obscured by dazzling clouds of glassfish and gorgonians. Sea fans harbour pipefish, seahorses and shrimpfish, keeping even the most experienced divers entertained for days.

This is the only 5 star accommodation on Phi Phi. Rooms are well appointed and quite luxurious. The pool is a huge let down being of a rustic Thai type of design. Actually, it looks like a stagnant pond.....very unappealing! The bungalows are very close to oneanother so privacy is somewhat compromised. Not our favorite Phi Phi hotel! The restaurant serves excellent food, though rather expensive. Dinner can be taken at tables set out on the beach with wonderful views and ideal for a romantic evening. The location at Laem Tong Bay is somewhat secluded and a half hour boat ride from the action at Tonsai Village, so not right for those who want loads of action.